Quoted from ulmpharmd:Here ya go!
[quoted image]
This of course is a quick peek at the inked version on paper....the glasses for sale are of course acrylic and in color.
Will the cabinet decals have an option for a radcal version?
Quoted from ulmpharmd:Here ya go!
[quoted image]
This of course is a quick peek at the inked version on paper....the glasses for sale are of course acrylic and in color.
Will the cabinet decals have an option for a radcal version?
Quoted from djreddog:[quoted image][quoted image]
Pretty damn cool and it even says Whitewater on the backglass to boot Is there a price point out yet and are they sold as a pair or could someone buy just one or the other? Great work!
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:Pretty damn cool and it even says Whitewater on the backglass to boot Is there a price point out yet and are they sold as a pair or could someone buy just one or the other? Great work!
https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product-category/pinball-and-arcade-artwork/
$120 for translite. $80 for blades. Sold separate.
Oh, the chick finally got a life jacket too
Really nice art, I do want it but not sure for that price.
Yeah I like both the translite and the side art. Honestly considering the acrylic backglass
Love the artwork though - really nice job.
I have one and think it looks fantastic! I love the added mirroring. It is a little darker than a translite however I think it looks deeper and less washed out. I have the CPR mirrored backglasses in most of my Williams games. So, I am admittingly a fan.
Quoted from J67ab:Took the plunge with a mirrored CPR WH20 backglass. Anyone have any feedback on them? I have one on my TAF and they do look nice!
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:Oh, the chick finally got a life jacket too
Really nice art, I do want it but not sure for that price.
Creature at 9 o'clock.
I like the sideart. The other art is also pretty cool, but for me, it's too crowded as translite.
The artist is a pure talent.
Looks like you guys beat me to it!
I'm excited to share this hear, and to get your feedback:
White Water Alternate Pinball Translite Artwork created by Brian Allen, officially licensed from Williams
I’m proud to present the artwork for my Alternate White Water backglass and Translite! This is my most time-consuming and detailed design yet, and for me, the most challenging so far.
I had a lot of requests to make Big Foot have a larger, uh, footprint in the design. I took that pretty literally and drew him as a giant monster emerging from the rocks!
There are tons of Easter Eggs in this design. Look for the Creature from the Black Lagoon, the woman in the white dress from Attack From Mars, Dr. Dude, and a cameo from the No Good Gofers varmint. There’s even a nod to some outdoors movies, like Deliverance, and “The Great Outdoors.” I also made an effort to sneak in a few humble bows to the artists behind the original backglass here and there.
I also made sure to include the “Whitewater” title text, per request from fans (this was missing on the original Translite).
Translite Version:
▪ Reverse-printed on a NEW flexible but firm, thicker Translite material.
▪ Double-layered ink
▪ White silk-screened backing.
▪ Measures 26.5″x 18.375″ to fit in ALL White Water pinball machines
▪ Also fits Lit Frames light boxes.
▪ Signed by the Artist
Limited Edition 1/8” Thick Acrylic Backglass Version:
• LIMITED TO ONLY 200 ever.
• Reverse-printed on a 1/8″ thick translucent acrylic backglass (not a thin Translite).
• Double-layered ink
• White silk-screened backing.
• Measures 27″x 18 7/8″ to fit in ALL White Water pinball machines
• Also fits Lit Frames light boxes.
• Comes with a Certificate of Authenticity signed and numbered by the artist.
Also available as a Vinyl Banner, signed Art Print, or as set of matching Side Art Blades.
CHECK IT OUT HERE:
https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product-category/pinball-and-arcade-artwork
THANK YOU!!!!
White-water-Translite-12 copy (resized).jpgWhite-Water-Alternate-Translite-8 (resized).jpgWhite-Water-Alternate-Translite-1 (resized).jpgWhite-Water-Alternate-Translite-2 (resized).jpgWhite-Water-Alternate-Translite-3 (resized).jpgWhite-Water-Alternate-Translite-4 (resized).jpgWhite-Water-Alternate-Translite-5 (resized).jpgWhite-water-acrylic-backglass-1 (resized).jpgWhite-water-acrylic-backglass-2 (resized).jpgI didn't look through 108 pages of this thread, so maybe this has been answered. I want to grease the bigfoot motor gears. I have most everything taken apart, but can't see how bigfoot's head is removed. Help! Thanks.
Quoted from RCSP:I didn't look through 108 pages of this thread, so maybe this has been answered. I want to grease the bigfoot motor gears. I have most everything taken apart, but can't see how bigfoot's head is removed. Help! Thanks.
At the back, there is a hidden machine screw. Unscrew, then you can remove the head.
Then, there is a grub screw.
Quoted from Davi:At the back, there is a hidden machine screw. Unscrew, then you can remove the head.
Then, there is a grub screw.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice documentation of that process Peter.
Quoted from RCSP:I didn't look through 108 pages of this thread, so maybe this has been answered. I want to grease the bigfoot motor gears. I have most everything taken apart, but can't see how bigfoot's head is removed. Help! Thanks.
If I recall correctly the gear housing is unfortunately riveted shut (no screws on mine anyway) so getting into it is troublesome and even more so to get it back closed again. I had to skip cleaning/regreasing mine because of this.
Quoted from Crash:The rivets can be drilled out and replaced with screws or bolts.
Sure, but it's just so strange they riveted this shut when my ToM trunk gearbox, RS dozer gearbox and BR cannon-swing gearbox had screws in them.
My bigfoot gearbox works fine and doesn't sound that much so I decided to let it be.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:Sure, but it's just so strange they riveted this shut when my ToM trunk gearbox, RS dozer gearbox and BR cannon-swing gearbox had screws in them.
My bigfoot gearbox works fine and doesn't sound that much so I decided to let it be.
I agree, that is strange. Mine works as well, and isn't near as noisy as the one in my Addams Family which was disassembled and repaired/greased a few years ago.
I added a battery holder to my game. I know there are NVRAM options, but I don't want to mess with soldering one in on my CPU board. I had a spare wire harness clip and attached it to the existing lower backbox door bracket. It's pretty secure, and should stay in place when I move the machine. The issue though is the game doesn't keep memory. I soldered the black wire to the lower left battery holder terminal and the red wire to the upper right terminal like I've seen on holders commonly sold. I verified 4.52v at the wires from the battery holder. No prior corrosion on the CPU board. Maybe the DC blocking diode is open?
DSC_1698 (resized).JPGDSC_1699 (resized).JPG
Added over 3 years ago:Edit: I fixed this, soldered to the wrong terminals on the battery holder.
Quoted from Davi:At the back, there is a hidden machine screw. Unscrew, then you can remove the head.
Then, there is a grub screw.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome, thank you
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:If I recall correctly the gear housing is unfortunately riveted shut (no screws on mine anyway) so getting into it is troublesome and even more so to get it back closed again. I had to skip cleaning/regreasing mine because of this.
I drilled off the heads of the rivets, wasn’t too tough. The gearbox had plenty of grease and it wasn’t hardened like my Judge Dredd where it ruined the gears (stripped).
Quoted from Pinball_Basement:Not everyday you come across something nos like this...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
acquired for $?
Quoted from LTG:Tiny ramp screws.
LTG : )
Nooooo I mean the screws above a couple inches lol
I asked a poorly worded question, so I'll start over. The gap between the plastic ramp and the cliffy protector is too large, the ball will get stuck here. What's a good fix? I could put a small ramp flap under the cliffy that would extend over the gap.
What goes into the circled holes? I am running out of parts that haven't been installed!
EDIT: I figured out the screw holes, they are for the wire ramp that drops the ball onto the Cliffy. Now back to the gap - I can stretch the ramp until it touches, I'd have to drill new holes. The ramp would be stressed a little.
the wire form. I used t-nuts, It takes quite a bit of abuse.
Quoted from RCSP:I took this apart and didn’t take enough pictures. I don’t remember the gap between the ramp and where the new cliffy protector is installed.
Also, what goes in those missing screw holes?
Thanks!
[quoted image]
Quoted from Pinball_Basement:Not everyday you come across something nos like this...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Well damn that's pretty sweet. How bout the story of where you scored it and how many kidneys you had to give up to get it?
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:Well damn that's pretty sweet. How bout the story of where you scored it and how many kidneys you had to give up to get it?
Most probably here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nos-parts-for-sale-cftbl-addams-whitewater#post-5902424
Quoted from RCSP:I asked a poorly worded question, so I'll start over. The gap between the plastic ramp and the cliffy protector is too large, the ball will get stuck here. What's a good fix? I could put a small ramp flap under the cliffy that would extend over the gap.
What goes into the circled holes? I am running out of parts that haven't been installed!
[quoted image]
EDIT: I figured out the screw holes, they are for the wire ramp that drops the ball onto the Cliffy. Now back to the gap - I can stretch the ramp until it touches, I'd have to drill new holes. The ramp would be stressed a little.
I was in the same boat you are with my restore several months ago (ramp installation was the most PITA of any restore i've done). I opted to wait on screwing in the bottom/entrance and I had to gently close that gap up top with force. I was able to get it to fit with only the tiniest gap but it wasnt easy. I suppose you could put a ramp flap here but you would also have to address the gap going up the side (the side away from the backboard). That part will also need to be smooth, otherwise the ball can get stuck there.
Have a complete set of original boulders all perfect condition... will be placing a market place ad shortly !
Ok, just loaded in the mirrored backglass, a little darker than the translight but works better with the led setup I have and seems to give a sharper image without distorting or extra glare. Tighter fit in loading it in.
49556F55-304C-4EA2-AE60-7BB4E4AD7ADD (resized).jpeg57B9D6E4-CB35-44DE-AE6B-836CFF7C0EA9 (resized).jpeg
2C2761BD-0F10-4AA2-9D3A-ADC773467A5B (resized).jpeg126AED2E-68BC-401E-80BC-50D7EC483C36 (resized).jpegQuoted from algrande:the wire form. I used t-nuts, It takes quite a bit of abuse.
[quoted image]
I took it apart and installed T-Nuts. It fits really securely now. Good tip.
Quoted from J67ab:Ok, just loaded in the mirrored backglass, a little darker than the translight but works better with the led setup I have and seems to give a sharper image without distorting or extra glare. Tighter fit in loading it in.
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]
I've considered the 3D translite, hadn't really seen the actual backglass before.
Quoted from bobukcat:I've considered the 3D translite, hadn't really seen the actual backglass before.
I saw it at TPF a couple years back and it’s very nice, cept with 3D and me I always see the half image vs the depth image, probably how my Eyes work and the effect is lost on me.
Someone please explain me:
An item goes to Pinside Market. One hour later, the ad is closed: The seller marked this ad as "not sold".
What's the point? Is this the way to avoid fee?
Quoted from Davi:Someone please explain me:
An item goes to Pinside Market. One hour later, the ad is closed: The seller marked this ad as "not sold".
What's the point? Is this the way to avoid fee?
They could have posted it to other sites... Facebook or EBay
Quoted from Yesh23:There could have posted it to other sites... Facebook or EBay
i've sold stuff elsewhere listed here.
Restoration completed. This one was fun to do some lighting effects on. Plenty of water to accent while still keeping the entire play area warm white. I've since added the color file for the dmd, really pops on this title. Playfield was touched up with clear before and after, everything torn down, full cliffy set, original topper tracked down and repaired as best I could. Even repaired the boulders. Really happy with this one. I'm not sure it will be in my collection forever, but it definitely deserves a spot for a while.
FJIMG_20201212_023153 (resized).jpgFJIMG_20201212_023204 (resized).jpgFJIMG_20201212_023210 (resized).jpgFJIMG_20201212_023219 (resized).jpgFJIMG_20201212_023229 (resized).jpgFJIMG_20201212_023241 (resized).jpgFJIMG_20201212_023502 (resized).jpgFJIMG_20201212_023513 (resized).jpgFJIMG_20201212_023903 (resized).jpgFJIMG_20201212_023911 (resized).jpgHi everyone!!! I wanted to share these new White Water Side Art Blade decals I created. Thanks for all the support on these so far!
All of the artwork was hand-drawn by me, ships from us directly.
• Officially licensed from Williams/Bally, and comes with a genuine Hologram sticker to prove authenticity.
• Printed on thick Matte White Opaque Air Egress/Perm, high-quality vinyl.
• The Air-Egress vinyl adhesive we use makes for easy and forgiving installation. (10-15 minute installation)
• Printed with vibrant, fade-resistant colors.
• Laminated with a scratch-resistant protective coating that will keep them looking like new for many years.
• The textured, matte laminate will also minimize the number of reflections from the Playfield lights.
• Fits ALL White Water pinball machines.
• Die-Cut hole in each blade to accommodate backbox hinge bolt for easy installation.
• Set of two pre-cut decals (one for each side).
You can check them out here:
https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product-category/pinball-and-arcade-artwork
THANK YOU!!!
Side-Blade-Tease-low-res (resized).jpgWhitewater-Pinball-Side-Art-Blades-11 (resized).jpgWhitewater-Pinball-Side-Art-Blades-3 (resized).jpgWhitewater-Pinball-Side-Art-Blades-4 (resized).jpgWhitewater-Pinball-Side-Art-Blades-7 (resized).jpgWhitewater-Pinball-Side-Art-Blades-8 (resized).jpgwhite-water-side-blades-10-low-res (resized).jpgwhite-water-side-blades-11-low-res (resized).jpgwhite-water-side-blades-12-low-res (resized).jpgQuoted from brian-allen:Hi everyone!!! I wanted to share these new White Water Side Art Blade decals I created. Thanks for all the support on these so far!
All of the artwork was hand-drawn by me, ships from us directly.
• Officially licensed from Williams/Bally, and comes with a genuine Hologram sticker to prove authenticity.
• Printed on thick Matte White Opaque Air Egress/Perm, high-quality vinyl.
• The Air-Egress vinyl adhesive we use makes for easy and forgiving installation. (10-15 minute installation)
• Printed with vibrant, fade-resistant colors.
• Laminated with a scratch-resistant protective coating that will keep them looking like new for many years.
• The textured, matte laminate will also minimize the number of reflections from the Playfield lights.
• Fits ALL White Water pinball machines.
• Die-Cut hole in each blade to accommodate backbox hinge bolt for easy installation.
• Set of two pre-cut decals (one for each side).You can check them out here:
https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product-category/pinball-and-arcade-artwork
THANK YOU!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Cool!
Is it possible to extend the artwork next to shooter lane/apron (to fully cover the side of cabinet)?
Quoted from Yesh23:They could have posted it to other sites... Facebook or EBay
this, I posted 3 games on Pinside and facebook. They all sold on Facebook very quickly.
Alright after shopping my game out the upper GI lighting is out. White/brown wire. Can’t figure out if I connected something wrong under the playfield. Check connectors and I am not seeing anything.
Any thoughts? Much appreciated!
509C55BA-54FD-4222-9404-D3CB78354B02 (resized).jpeg8FFA367F-A392-4574-9305-2E0572C6BC02 (resized).jpegD7578A50-655B-42BB-820E-F72834ADCDE9 (resized).jpegE421A00D-962E-4185-BEB9-0416F0587EFD (resized).jpegQuoted from pacman11:Any thoughts?
Check continuity of wiring from driver board connectors to the string that is out -
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems
Or measure AC power leaving the driver board for that string that is out.
You lost power at the board or out in the game.
LTG : )
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