If it were mine... I might be inclined experiment with a little heat and gently peal the corner up. It that went well, I'd peal the decal 1/2 off and massage out the heavy bubbles in middle of waterfall.

I already did that. Heat gun on low. Peeled 75%. The bubbles did indeed come out, the creases not so much.

It is time for me to replace batteries. Out of 14 games I was down to 4 that needed AA or AAA batteries. The rest had NVRams or coin cells. WW was one of the remaining games that needed batteries and adding an NVRam would require soldering in a new RAM socket. This is above my soldering skill level. I ordered 4 coin cell battery boards from TNT for $13.99 each Plus shipping. They are much easier to solder in place and seem to work well.Battery Board01 (resized).jpg

Battery Board02 (resized).jpg

Battery Board03 (resized).jpg

Battery Board04 (resized).jpg

Hi guys,
At the time it all seemed so easy to take this game apart but it is now very apparent that I should have taken more photos during disassembly as my memory is not what I had hoped.
Can anyone confirm that the sign / upper playfield ball rail just attaches to the whirlpool ramp with screws such as in the picture? It just feels like I'm missing something here?? It also seem that this piece needs to be flush against the underside of the mini playfield so the screws just don't seem right.
Thanks for any help.

txERL8dqQeW86aA6ZgfgkQ (resized).jpg

Because the backbox lighting looked a little dark to me, I started to replace some old burnt 555's today. However, I noticed that the top row of Backbox GI lights are not working even when I put in new bulbs. Can anyone let me know where I should start and how to figure out what's going on? I know that J115 white/violet wires might be involved, from other reading I have done. I welcome any thoughts. Thanks for the help.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

LTG : )

Here's a pic I took during my swap. I believe you are correct

20200524_210819 (resized).jpg

Ahhh I see now, so the whirlpool ramp and the ball guide actually attaches to the underside on the upper playfield. I'm so glad I asked and didn't proceed any further. I really appreciate this arcadenerd925, you've saved me a lot of time

I have a White Water that was a reimport from Finland. It has the three coin-slot coin door on it. The coin door does not light up though. I have tried with known, good bulbs. Any thoughts on how to track down what's going on?

Could it possibly be a fuse? I actually had a dead fuse last week that fixed the g.i. in the sky on the backbox, so I was just curious about this for the coin doors too, maybe F116?

I welcome any thoughts. Thanks a lot.

Schematics are hard to read (https://www.ipdb.org/files/2768/Williams_WPC_Schematics_Revised_May_17_1993_.pdf page 5) but it seems that it should be fuse 106 for that GI string
Looking at the manual, the coin door GI come from Coin Dorr interface board J3-1 and -3 which comes from J119-1 and -3 on the driver board. I would test power, check connector and track cables.

Thanks so much for the guidance. I’ll see what I can find.

Anyone have any pictures of the underside of the upper flipper? Mine has a strange issue where the end-of-stroke just barely reaches the flipper pawl, and as a result gets caught on the corner of it after it's played enough and worn down a little bit. I just replaced the end-of-stroke, plunger assembly, coil stop, and put new shrink tubing on the pawl, but it's still the same as before. At this point I'm just trying to figure out what's different about my flipper compared to others'. Pics with the flipper fully extended would be most helpful.

PXL_20201123_004512569.jpg

Originally, this flipper is equipped with spring around the plunger.
Your picture is with spring retainer bracket - this bracket is for external spring. The bracket hits the ball guide, this is a limitation.
You have to remove the bracket, or if you want to use external spring, need to modify a bit.

20201123_201329 (resized).jpg

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Yeah, I noticed that when I was putting the flipper back together, but I was able to adjust it so the bracket doesn't hit the ball guide. Interestingly, it looks like your EOS also just barely reaches far enough, albeit a bit further than mine.

The main reason of why I removed the inner spring: sometimes I feel it "sticky", when it's fully compressed (and acts as a limiter in this case).

Just got back into the Whitewater club. So happy to have one again. Love this pinball. Added color DMD and going to put in LED’s. I have 2 boulders broken. Does anyone have extras they would like to sell me?
Thanks,
TomDE72E216-25DD-4FF7-8287-FD572CAC1EC0 (resized).jpeg

What’s the best look for side blades art? How does Pinstadium look on White Water? Thinking about purchasing for mine.
Thanks.

Wait for brian-allen to release his side blades in the next couple weeks before making a decision.

I'm having an issue with my White Water going into factory reset after powering down. I'll turn the machine off per normal. Next time I turn it on, it resets to factory settings (unable to take volume below 10, 3 balls/game, not set on free play, and deletes all my high scores). I can deal with the first 3 issues but deleting my high scores hurts.

In searching through pinside for a solution, I came across this:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-power-down-resets#post-3437982

Would this be a potential solution?

Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks.

Here, search for factory reset:

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index3.htm

Battery power getting onto the CPU ? Battery holder bad ? Batteries bad ?

Check for battery leakage while you are in there.

LTG : )

I found these 2 rom’s and wonder what’s the difference (I know the checksum is different)? It appears I already have L5 so not sure I need to replace what I have. Thanks

CA3F263C-C873-4373-A8B9-172C14C8A9A6 (resized).jpeg

One is L-5 and the other is LH-5.. so they're not the same.
You can download them (and the latest, LH-6) at https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=whitewater&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick

L-5 has a textfile included with the changes, the other do not..

Here you find what's in LH-6: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wh20-home-vs-non-home-roms-difference
Don't know what's changed in LH-5.

I could be wrong, but I believe LH-5 is pretty much exactly the same as LH-6 but with a crash bug that's fixed in LH-6.

Yes, I believe you are correct. LH-5 was pretty bad, in that it would crash as soon as you had a pretty good game. Something about hitting the standup targets too many times in a game would cause it. The LH-6 rom fixed that issue. I have been running LH-6 for a long time with no problems.

And the light show (flashers, GI dimming) in LH6 is pretty cool - and compatible with recently released pin2dmd colorisation.

wh2o pin2dmd.gif

Is that the Endprodukt colorization?

That was in LH-5 as well. LH-6 just fixed the crash bug that LH-5 had.

As for the light show...that's the worst part of LH-6. You used to get the show only when finishing a very good game (i.e. 500 million or more), with LH-6 you get the light show on any game over 30 million (which means EVERY game if you are any good at all).

They turned something that was "special and rare" into "common and boring".

Yes, this was a teaser.

Okay, that's what I have running in my machine. It really looks great.

Has he done any updates? I noticed a couple screens that render weird. it’s much better than the colordmd colors even with a few flaws.

Does anyone know where I can get the green lock targets or the part number?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8563-11
Available at Marco

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14604-11

PBL has them a bit cheaper:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-green-transparent-standup-target-3-ddeep-rectangle.html

If you get new ones. Please be sure you wire them in right. White Water is prone to resets if you don't.

LTG : )

Did you let him know?
There were a couple that were odd to me. I let him know and he fixed them.
Which ones don't look right?

I’ll have to get the glass off and take some vid or photos. I think the replay score is wonky at end of ball, and I’m pretty sure i caught something odd in gold rush. Poked around a little, seems like i probably have the latest.

Has anyone tried blue fire LEDs for some water effects in the GI? Planning to get some from Comet and see what they look like.

I was also curious about trying a red fire for hot foot boulder or somewhere else?

The hotfoot board does an amazing job with this

Took the plunge with a mirrored CPR WH20 backglass. Anyone have any feedback on them? I have one on my TAF and they do look nice!

Thanks

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1171-pinball-z/02183-white-water-bigfoot-spotlight-amp-hot-foot-lighting-

I have an issue with my Bigfoot motor board. Evidently the cap was leaking at some point and caused some corrosion on the IC. I cleaned up the board and replaced the capacitor. Now the head will only turn counter clockwise. I checked the traces and components, everything tests out fine. It looks like the IC may be bad from the corrosion.

I have another junk board I'm using for parts. Should I try swapping the IC?

I’ve been waffling on getting one for months. Let us know how it looks!! My current translight has weird looking coffee stains on it (no clue how or why it looks like that) and I’ve wanted to replace it with a CPR one, but I’ve yet to hear anything about them. Looking forward to seeing yours!

I would. If the other is in worse shape.

LTG : )

Sure is. Found that out the hard way!

10-4, my current translight is a Marco Repro anyways so anything I do would be a step forward. Will report back to the thread once in.

Just wanted to give everyone a heads up! Brian Allen and I will be releasing his newest alternate piece of artwork this week! I will follow this post with a teaser pic. Keep watching for this release as it will really knock your socks off with the detail and we actually have some of them ready to ship now! Pm me or Brian with any questions

Aaron

Here ya go!
7ACF7744-BA67-46C1-8144-25DBC1BF82BD (resized).jpeg

This of course is a quick peek at the inked version on paper....the glasses for sale are of course acrylic and in color.