(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



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  • 5,438 posts
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  • Latest reply 39 minutes ago by mbaumle
  • Topic is favorited by 229 Pinsiders

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There are 5438 posts in this topic. You are on page 107 of 109.
#5301 65 days ago

If it were mine... I might be inclined experiment with a little heat and gently peal the corner up. It that went well, I'd peal the decal 1/2 off and massage out the heavy bubbles in middle of waterfall.

#5302 65 days ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

If it were mine... I might be inclined experiment with a little heat and gently peal the corner up. It that went well, I'd peal the decal 1/2 off and massage out the heavy bubbles in middle of waterfall.

I already did that. Heat gun on low. Peeled 75%. The bubbles did indeed come out, the creases not so much.

#5303 64 days ago

It is time for me to replace batteries. Out of 14 games I was down to 4 that needed AA or AAA batteries. The rest had NVRams or coin cells. WW was one of the remaining games that needed batteries and adding an NVRam would require soldering in a new RAM socket. This is above my soldering skill level. I ordered 4 coin cell battery boards from TNT for $13.99 each Plus shipping. They are much easier to solder in place and seem to work well.Battery Board01 (resized).jpg

Battery Board02 (resized).jpgBattery Board03 (resized).jpgBattery Board04 (resized).jpg
#5304 64 days ago

Hi guys,
At the time it all seemed so easy to take this game apart but it is now very apparent that I should have taken more photos during disassembly as my memory is not what I had hoped.
Can anyone confirm that the sign / upper playfield ball rail just attaches to the whirlpool ramp with screws such as in the picture? It just feels like I'm missing something here?? It also seem that this piece needs to be flush against the underside of the mini playfield so the screws just don't seem right.
Thanks for any help.

txERL8dqQeW86aA6ZgfgkQ (resized).jpg
#5305 63 days ago

Because the backbox lighting looked a little dark to me, I started to replace some old burnt 555's today. However, I noticed that the top row of Backbox GI lights are not working even when I put in new bulbs. Can anyone let me know where I should start and how to figure out what's going on? I know that J115 white/violet wires might be involved, from other reading I have done. I welcome any thoughts. Thanks for the help.

#5307 63 days ago
Quoted from Drac:

Hi guys,
At the time it all seemed so easy to take this game apart but it is now very apparent that I should have taken more photos during disassembly as my memory is not what I had hoped.
Can anyone confirm that the sign / upper playfield ball rail just attaches to the whirlpool ramp with screws such as in the picture? It just feels like I'm missing something here?? It also seem that this piece needs to be flush against the underside of the mini playfield so the screws just don't seem right.
Thanks for any help.[quoted image]

Here's a pic I took during my swap. I believe you are correct

20200524_210819 (resized).jpg
#5308 63 days ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Here's a pic I took during my swap. I believe you are correct
[quoted image]

Ahhh I see now, so the whirlpool ramp and the ball guide actually attaches to the underside on the upper playfield. I'm so glad I asked and didn't proceed any further. I really appreciate this arcadenerd925, you've saved me a lot of time

1 week later
#5309 54 days ago

I have a White Water that was a reimport from Finland. It has the three coin-slot coin door on it. The coin door does not light up though. I have tried with known, good bulbs. Any thoughts on how to track down what's going on?

Could it possibly be a fuse? I actually had a dead fuse last week that fixed the g.i. in the sky on the backbox, so I was just curious about this for the coin doors too, maybe F116?

I welcome any thoughts. Thanks a lot.

#5310 54 days ago
Quoted from eb94114:

I have a White Water that was a reimport from Finland. It has the three coin-slot coin door on it. The coin door does not light up though. I have tried with known, good bulbs. Any thoughts on how to track down what's going on?
Could it possibly be a fuse? I actually had a dead fuse last week that fixed the g.i. in the sky on the backbox, so I was just curious about this for the coin doors too, maybe F116?
I welcome any thoughts. Thanks a lot.

Schematics are hard to read (https://www.ipdb.org/files/2768/Williams_WPC_Schematics_Revised_May_17_1993_.pdf page 5) but it seems that it should be fuse 106 for that GI string
Looking at the manual, the coin door GI come from Coin Dorr interface board J3-1 and -3 which comes from J119-1 and -3 on the driver board. I would test power, check connector and track cables.

#5311 53 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Schematics are hard to read (https://www.ipdb.org/files/2768/Williams_WPC_Schematics_Revised_May_17_1993_.pdf page 5) but it seems that it should be fuse 106 for that GI string
Looking at the manual, the coin door GI come from Coin Dorr interface board J3-1 and -3 which comes from J119-1 and -3 on the driver board. I would test power, check connector and track cables.

Thanks so much for the guidance. I’ll see what I can find.

#5312 53 days ago

Anyone have any pictures of the underside of the upper flipper? Mine has a strange issue where the end-of-stroke just barely reaches the flipper pawl, and as a result gets caught on the corner of it after it's played enough and worn down a little bit. I just replaced the end-of-stroke, plunger assembly, coil stop, and put new shrink tubing on the pawl, but it's still the same as before. At this point I'm just trying to figure out what's different about my flipper compared to others'. Pics with the flipper fully extended would be most helpful.

PXL_20201123_004512569.jpg

#5313 53 days ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Anyone have any pictures of the underside of the upper flipper? Mine has a strange issue where the end-of-stroke just barely reaches the flipper pawl, and as a result gets caught on the corner of it after it's played enough and worn down a little bit. I just replaced the end-of-stroke, plunger assembly, coil stop, and put new shrink tubing on the pawl, but it's still the same as before. At this point I'm just trying to figure out what's different about my flipper compared to others'. Pics with the flipper fully extended would be most helpful.
[quoted image]

Originally, this flipper is equipped with spring around the plunger.
Your picture is with spring retainer bracket - this bracket is for external spring. The bracket hits the ball guide, this is a limitation.
You have to remove the bracket, or if you want to use external spring, need to modify a bit.

20201123_201329 (resized).jpg20201123_201352 (resized).jpg
#5314 53 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Originally, this flipper is equipped with spring around the plunger.
Your picture is with spring retainer bracket - this bracket is for external spring. The bracket hits the ball guide, this is a limitation.
You have to remove the bracket, or if you want to use external spring, need to modify a bit.[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah, I noticed that when I was putting the flipper back together, but I was able to adjust it so the bracket doesn't hit the ball guide. Interestingly, it looks like your EOS also just barely reaches far enough, albeit a bit further than mine.

#5315 53 days ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Yeah, I noticed that when I was putting the flipper back together, but I was able to adjust it so the bracket doesn't hit the ball guide. Interestingly, it looks like your EOS also just barely reaches far enough, albeit a bit further than mine.

The main reason of why I removed the inner spring: sometimes I feel it "sticky", when it's fully compressed (and acts as a limiter in this case).

#5316 53 days ago

Just got back into the Whitewater club. So happy to have one again. Love this pinball. Added color DMD and going to put in LED’s. I have 2 boulders broken. Does anyone have extras they would like to sell me?
Thanks,
TomDE72E216-25DD-4FF7-8287-FD572CAC1EC0 (resized).jpeg

#5317 53 days ago

What’s the best look for side blades art? How does Pinstadium look on White Water? Thinking about purchasing for mine.
Thanks.

#5318 53 days ago
Quoted from PinballT:

What’s the best look for side blades art? How does Pinstadium look on White Water? Thinking about purchasing for mine.
Thanks.

Wait for brian-allen to release his side blades in the next couple weeks before making a decision.

#5319 52 days ago

I'm having an issue with my White Water going into factory reset after powering down. I'll turn the machine off per normal. Next time I turn it on, it resets to factory settings (unable to take volume below 10, 3 balls/game, not set on free play, and deletes all my high scores). I can deal with the first 3 issues but deleting my high scores hurts.

In searching through pinside for a solution, I came across this:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-power-down-resets#post-3437982

Would this be a potential solution?

Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks.

#5320 52 days ago
Quoted from DwightEisenhower:

I'm having an issue with my White Water going into factory reset after powering down. I'll turn the machine off per normal. Next time I turn it on, it resets to factory settings (unable to take volume below 10, 3 balls/game, not set on free play, and deletes all my high scores). I can deal with the first 3 issues but deleting my high scores hurts.
In searching through pinside for a solution, I came across this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-power-down-resets#post-3437982
Would this be a potential solution?
Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks.

Here, search for factory reset:

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index3.htm

#5321 52 days ago
Quoted from DwightEisenhower:

Would this be a potential solution?

Battery power getting onto the CPU ? Battery holder bad ? Batteries bad ?

Check for battery leakage while you are in there.

LTG : )

#5322 52 days ago

I found these 2 rom’s and wonder what’s the difference (I know the checksum is different)? It appears I already have L5 so not sure I need to replace what I have. Thanks

CA3F263C-C873-4373-A8B9-172C14C8A9A6 (resized).jpeg
#5323 52 days ago

One is L-5 and the other is LH-5.. so they're not the same.
You can download them (and the latest, LH-6) at https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=whitewater&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick

L-5 has a textfile included with the changes, the other do not..

Here you find what's in LH-6: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wh20-home-vs-non-home-roms-difference
Don't know what's changed in LH-5.

#5324 52 days ago

I could be wrong, but I believe LH-5 is pretty much exactly the same as LH-6 but with a crash bug that's fixed in LH-6.

#5325 52 days ago
Quoted from mystman12:

I could be wrong, but I believe LH-5 is pretty much exactly the same as LH-6 but with a crash bug that's fixed in LH-6.

Yes, I believe you are correct. LH-5 was pretty bad, in that it would crash as soon as you had a pretty good game. Something about hitting the standup targets too many times in a game would cause it. The LH-6 rom fixed that issue. I have been running LH-6 for a long time with no problems.

#5326 52 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Yes, I believe you are correct. LH-5 was pretty bad, in that it would crash as soon as you had a pretty good game. Something about hitting the standup targets too many times in a game would cause it. The LH-6 rom fixed that issue. I have been running LH-6 for a long time with no problems.

And the light show (flashers, GI dimming) in LH6 is pretty cool - and compatible with recently released pin2dmd colorisation.

wh2o pin2dmd.gif
#5327 52 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

And the light show (flashers, GI dimming) in LH6 is pretty cool - and compatible with recently released pin2dmd colorisation.[quoted image]

Is that the Endprodukt colorization?

#5328 51 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

And the light show (flashers, GI dimming) in LH6 is pretty cool - and compatible with recently released pin2dmd colorisation.[quoted image]

That was in LH-5 as well. LH-6 just fixed the crash bug that LH-5 had.

As for the light show...that's the worst part of LH-6. You used to get the show only when finishing a very good game (i.e. 500 million or more), with LH-6 you get the light show on any game over 30 million (which means EVERY game if you are any good at all).

They turned something that was "special and rare" into "common and boring".

#5329 51 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Is that the Endprodukt colorization?

Yes, this was a teaser.

#5330 51 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Yes, this was a teaser.

Okay, that's what I have running in my machine. It really looks great.

#5331 50 days ago

Has he done any updates? I noticed a couple screens that render weird. it’s much better than the colordmd colors even with a few flaws.

#5332 50 days ago

Does anyone know where I can get the green lock targets or the part number?

#5333 50 days ago

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8563-11
Available at Marco

Quoted from Yesh23:

Does anyone know where I can get the green lock targets or the part number?

#5334 50 days ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Does anyone know where I can get the green lock targets or the part number?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14604-11

#5336 50 days ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Does anyone know where I can get the green lock targets or the part number?

If you get new ones. Please be sure you wire them in right. White Water is prone to resets if you don't.

LTG : )

#5337 50 days ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

Has he done any updates? I noticed a couple screens that render weird. it’s much better than the colordmd colors even with a few flaws.

Did you let him know?
There were a couple that were odd to me. I let him know and he fixed them.
Which ones don't look right?

#5338 50 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Did you let him know?
There were a couple that were odd to me. I let him know and he fixed them.
Which ones don't look right?

I’ll have to get the glass off and take some vid or photos. I think the replay score is wonky at end of ball, and I’m pretty sure i caught something odd in gold rush. Poked around a little, seems like i probably have the latest.

#5339 49 days ago

Has anyone tried blue fire LEDs for some water effects in the GI? Planning to get some from Comet and see what they look like.

#5340 49 days ago

I was also curious about trying a red fire for hot foot boulder or somewhere else?

#5341 49 days ago
Quoted from Rougarou:

I was also curious about trying a red fire for hot foot boulder or somewhere else?

The hotfoot board does an amazing job with this

#5342 49 days ago

Took the plunge with a mirrored CPR WH20 backglass. Anyone have any feedback on them? I have one on my TAF and they do look nice!

#5344 49 days ago

I have an issue with my Bigfoot motor board. Evidently the cap was leaking at some point and caused some corrosion on the IC. I cleaned up the board and replaced the capacitor. Now the head will only turn counter clockwise. I checked the traces and components, everything tests out fine. It looks like the IC may be bad from the corrosion.

I have another junk board I'm using for parts. Should I try swapping the IC?

#5345 48 days ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Anyone have any feedback on them?

I’ve been waffling on getting one for months. Let us know how it looks!! My current translight has weird looking coffee stains on it (no clue how or why it looks like that) and I’ve wanted to replace it with a CPR one, but I’ve yet to hear anything about them. Looking forward to seeing yours!

#5346 48 days ago
Quoted from Crash:

Should I try swapping the IC?

I would. If the other is in worse shape.

LTG : )

#5347 48 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

If you get new ones. Please be sure you wire them in right. White Water is prone to resets if you don't.
LTG : )

Sure is. Found that out the hard way!

#5348 48 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

I’ve been waffling on getting one for months. Let us know how it looks!! My current translight has weird looking coffee stains on it (no clue how or why it looks like that) and I’ve wanted to replace it with a CPR one, but I’ve yet to hear anything about them. Looking forward to seeing yours!

10-4, my current translight is a Marco Repro anyways so anything I do would be a step forward. Will report back to the thread once in.

#5349 47 days ago

Just wanted to give everyone a heads up! Brian Allen and I will be releasing his newest alternate piece of artwork this week! I will follow this post with a teaser pic. Keep watching for this release as it will really knock your socks off with the detail and we actually have some of them ready to ship now! Pm me or Brian with any questions

Aaron

#5350 47 days ago

Here ya go!
7ACF7744-BA67-46C1-8144-25DBC1BF82BD (resized).jpeg

This of course is a quick peek at the inked version on paper....the glasses for sale are of course acrylic and in color.

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