If you don't have the game manual, go to ipdb.org, search game name and find the manual as pdf. On page 2-43 you will see all switches and where nr 54 is (above right outlane).

Now a switch can be flagged as "not working" by the game simply when a ball haven't hit it in a while, so depending on your rubber placement in the pop area this can be your case. Simply activate the switch by hand when game is running and see if credit dot disappear.

If this doesn't work go into the test menu, select switch test and press the 54 switch and see if the game recognizes you pressing it. If it doesn't either the switch is bad or some wiring might have come loose, either way you have to open the game and check below the playfield.

Yes, try the suggestion by Lhyrgoif to activate it by hand with the glass off. It's a leaf switch and should be easy to trigger. Also run a piece of paper between the contact points on the two prongs of the leaf switch while holding them together, this will clean the contact points. If the error doesn't go away, the first thing to check is to go into the service menu. Under tests, select the single switch test. Advance through the various switches until you get to switch 54, Lower Jet Arena. The switch should be open. If it's closed, the two prongs of the leaf switch may be constantly touching. You will need to slightly separate them. Or, as Lhyrgoif explains, you could also have a broken wire or faulty switch. Unfortunately the error and credit dot can be caused by any of the above, just go through each one until you find the problem.

I had a similar issue, except mine was the Right Jet Arena which is above and to the right of where your switch is. In my case there was no gap between the leaf switch prongs because the rubber was pushing one into the other and they were constantly touching, reading as closed in the switch test. Your problem may be similar or could be something else mentioned above.

Thank you both for the help. I will try this in the coming days and report back. I really appreciate the guidance.

Switch 54 is just below the lower jet, tucked just above the right side exit.
You have to get under the plastic boulder under the ball launch guide.
Check your rubber configuration as many have a rubber blocking off ball access to this area

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That makes sense. I might post a picture later, as I do think I have the rubber blocking the ball access. If I do, is there anything I should do to fix that? Isn't this the post that can be moved? Thanks again.

I removed that post completely and I dont see much balls draining on the right side, just more pop action ,which I like.

This is the area. You can see a hole - I also removed the post.

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+1 for removing the post. I like it way better.

Ok.. so thought I solved this by buying a new Opto board (with sockets for the LM339 chips). The game worked as soon as I changed the opto board. But, a week later the same issue happened. I had some spare LM339 chips and once replaced, the game was working again. For a single day. After a day the issue is back I'm certain that it's an LM339 chip issue again (I'll confirm tonight after replacing the LM339s again). So, what the heck is causing the LM339 chips to die? I really don't want to replace the two LM339 chips every time I want to have a game =). Any advice on how to troubleshoot this? I have checked if any connections in to the opto board is shorted etc. but can't find any issue so far.

The issue I see is essentially this, when there's a ball in the right trough, activating a switch on row 5 will also trigger Disaster drop main. I have no issues whenever there is no ball in the trough.

Thanks all!

You could try a new opto board if all else fails.

It turns out that the rubber does block the switch. I hit it with my hand, and everything is fine. It's a blue superband, and it looks like the ball definitely would not be able to trigger the switch if it hits the switch.

That said, when you mention removing the post, which post do you remove? If it's the one above the "250,000," does that mean you remove the rubber too? I'm assuming that is not right. Do you mean the blue one in the picture above? Sorry for any ridiculous questions here.

Thanks again for the help.

Long on going debate here about the rubber configuration, I'm assuming you have a rubber between the 2 lower pops , stopping the ball from hitting the switch...
Perhaps take a pic of your pop bumper configuration and post it here?

Not a great picture, but the rubber goes from 250,000 up, so, yes, I think it's between the two lower pops. Any thoughts?
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Well that was my first solution.. there's a brand new opto board in the machine. The LM339 still blows! =)

Check your fuses (right ones in right place) check for any shorts that might be injecting power into the switch matrix. Look for anything shorting into your opto wiring.

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I removed the post and long rubber blocking the path, then put a small round rubber on the second post. Also put a small mylar patch over the hole to not damage the PF.

Works fine, haven't seen any noticeable increase in drains to the right outlane.

Looking for some advice...
Is this zero clearance normal?

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for the cave, yes. I have a touch more over bigfoot.

Did you install new ramps and/or mountains and boulders? Ramps are thicker and also the boulders.

If so, you may have to shave off some of the mountains on top. Grind, file...what ever it takes.

Big Foot is no issue if his fur touches the glass.

Thanks.
Yes, new Starship ramps and boulders/mountains. At the back ramp, the situation is worse, about 1/3 inch higher, touching the wood. Should I lower the L brackets?

This ^^^ i had to grind down the high spot on the mountain a little. I also mounted it slightly further down the ramp to give me a little extra room.

Bigfoot was fine for me.

Finally joined the club! Have been buying parts for one for several years... I'll probably restore my Firepower first and then get to this one - having way too much fun playing it right now!

I'm looking for a topper board and lights dead or alive.

Think its #applejack makes the new and improved board for lighting the topper

It's @applejuice. Here's his site where you can order it. He's in the UK, so it may take a bit with shipping.

https://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp

I use ups for shipping these days so delivery is 3 days usually worldwide

Finished boulders.

After the paint dried on my boulder repairs, they were obvious as the gloss level was different. I added a little clearcoat to shine it up, and ended up confirming my suspicion that the boulders look wet when clearcoated and it looks awesome. I proceeded to clearcoat the entire set. Love it

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Finishing up my restoration. Have this left over. What is this part? Where does it go?

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I've seen that before but I don't think it goes in a WH2O.

It almost looks like a wrench.

My first restoration is done
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Slip under a playfield plastic to hold the bolt or screw. So when you unscrew the locknut the bolt or screw doesn't go with.

LTG : )

I have a light that’s not working on RIVER. I’ve swapped bulbs with no change. Wiring on connector looks good. I tried to “reflow” the solder on the board, but to be honest I’ve never reflowed solder before and not even sure of the exact process. I simply added fresh solder to the board hoping to make a clean connection. Thoughts on what to do next?

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Unplug the connector. Remove the board. Reflow the solder on the pins on the board the connector plugs onto. Reassemble.

You sure the bulb is good ?

LTG : )

Yeah these things are a pita.
Sometimes you don't want to twist the bulbs all the way in. Easiest thing to do is have power on while twisting it in to see when to stop. You can also bend the leads on the bulb holder to be pressing into the solder pad for a better connection.

This is where I’m lost. So the part I “reflowed” (see picture) isn’t the same as what you are referencing correct?

Bulb is good, tested in another slot.

Did you do where the bulb snaps in and the pins where the connector plugs onto the board ? Both areas ? I'm talknig about the connector pins.

If you did them. And wires are pushed into the IDC connector making good contact. I'd replace the diode next for that bulb.

LTG : )

Incorrect. look closely at the circuit board once you've removed it. Look at the traces on the circuit board and you will notice that one trace coming from the bulb socket is connected to all the other bulb sockets. That trace is not the problem. The OTHER trace coming from the bad bulb socket will lead to a pin where the wire connector attaches to the board. That is most likely the culprit. Reflow solder there. You might as well reflow to all of them while you're at it though (reheat the connection to liquify the solder, you don't need to add solder in most cases).

Huh... Neat.

Now that you tell me that I'm pretty sure it was in the bottom of the cab when I bought it. Hence it was tossed in with the rest of the Metals into the tumbler.

Hope mine looks this good when it's done soon. It definitely won't on the inside of the cabinet though haha.

Stunning work Peter...i hope mine will come out similar...about to start and have it at least almost fully disassembled atm.

Ok a couple of updates before I mess something up.

First photo shows a yellow arrow to the trace that goes to the bad socket. To be clear, all I need to do is heat up the soldering iron and then retrace that line?
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Next 2 photos show a closer shot of the pins. The pin on the far right is the one that goes to the bad socket. It looks different than the other pins. Is that the problem? Looks like it’s lacking solder?

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Don't touch the trace. Resolder (reflow) the far right joint. The solder is there, but cracked. Most probably due to vibration caused by lost mine kickout.

Reflowing this pin fixed the issue. Thanks everyone!

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Thanks - I'll check it out!

That's awesome - do you produce the light boards also?

Not currently , just the control board

Lamp board is available at many European store:
Ministry of pinball
Best of pinball
Pinball Center

Managed to get ahold of an original topper. It was not in the best of shape. But it's irreplaceable so had to do the best I could. Its not a "like new" transformation but it's an improvement. Looks great from 4 feet away and that's what's important.

I tracked down one of the reproductions that I will no longer need if anyone wants to buy it at cost.

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is the raft lost in the reflection?

Yes. There is no missing art up top that is all glare from the shop lights.