is that the "TwistedPins" reproduction? I heard that wasn't a popular solution. Unless this is different. How much did it cost you?

Yes, but looks way better than glitter solution. I have had friends play mine and they can't tell its a reproduction. You have to angle it forward and the effect is pretty darn close to original. I can't remember what I paid.

Ok if I can get ahold of him I'll consider it. It's not listed on his website.

I agree, it's better than nothing. But to call it pretty close to original? Based on feedbacks and videos it's far away. The waterfall effect is missing.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/creditdotpinball.com/2014/05/22/mods-foiled-again-the-white-water-topper-reproduction/amp/

Can you read? You have to mount it differently. It has to be mounted with spacers so the entire thing leans forward. It is not perfect but way better than glitter and so far no one has even noticed it was a repro

Have any of those people ever seen a real one in person and do those people have decent eye sight? I've seen the setup you have / are referring to and it took me roughly one second to see it wasn't an OG. May be the best alternative out there but it's still a far cry from the original one - pretty amazing that in 2020 we can't find a way to reproduce that thing.

Don't be upset. I know what you mean. The link I posted contains a video comparison between original and tilted repro. Day and night.

mine looks better. spent hours adjusting the stupid thing. There are not any alternatives so it is what it is, but much better than glitter. When you get a white water for $2500 it is hard to argue.

I have a printing company and I took a spare original I used to have we tried to replicate it. I spent hours researching what the original artist did and we decided it was not worth the risk to try to reproduce. The guy that did the original work past away around 3 years ago. I personally do not think it will ever be redone. The guy overseas that is doing all the work by hand might have so me luck producing 1 piece but I do not think it will ever be mass produced again.

I just watched that video and there is NO waterfall effect. Mine has actual effect. You have to adjust it just right. I have owned several white waters and my wife still does not know it is a repro.

I have the skull mountain mod from Andy over in the U.K., and I’m having some trouble knowing where to connect it.

If I’m not mistaken, can’t it be connected in a way so that it stays lit when the lock is lit? If so, where should I connect it? I know that a gi connection keeps it on always, and when I connected it to the flasher from the left mountain it only flashes when the green “Lite” or “Lock“ targets are hit. It doesn’t stay lit after both targets are hit. I’ve looked through this thread and couldn’t find an answer, so I welcome any thoughts or guidance here.

Thanks so much.

Yes, I installed this recently. The instructions that came with were a little misleading. You actually want to plug it into the flasher that is located in the very back right of the machine (The dome one that is on the mountain). Then when you lock a ball, the eyes will blink fast in synchronization with that flasher. The eyes will only be on when the flasher is going.

Checked mine out while inspecting everything. Mine has a red PCB. Possible the board has already been replaced? I've only been able to find pics of this board having a green pcb.

FJIMG_20200820_215605 (resized).jpg

Red PCB generally were used for prototypes or sample games AFAIK.

Thanks for letting me know. So if I understand correctly, the eyes will flash only when “lite” and “lock” are hit? Does it also flash when the ball is locked? Is that when that flasher you connect to flashes?

Also, while trying to patch this in, the small molex connector on the mod, the one that has a red wire and two black ground wires in it, had one black and one red wire break off. It looks like they need to be repinned. Any suggestions on how to get the old pins out of the connector?

Thanks again.

By tapping into the flasher, it will go off whenever the flasher goes. I'm not sure off the top of my head, but I know for sure when you lock a ball it goes crazy.
Got any pictures of the break? You may not need to repin if you can use something like a butt splice.

It's a 5 minute job to replace and from what I have seen these fail frequently. It was a smelly mess and I had to replace a fuse as well as the traces that were eaten away by the electrolyte.

I am interested in buying a White Water that is in rough shape, somewhat local around my area for pickup (Sacramento CA). If someone has one and is interested in parting ways with one, PM me!

I would buy your original if you decide to go with the twisted pin.
Cash ready to go if there is one available from anywhere

Soulrider911... to me it's a close call.

The original definitely has much more water fall movement, however, the huge crease down the center and the faded looking mountains brings it way down... with that said; the repop has nice mountain colors, it's clean and new looking but the flashlight is really lacking.

I would put it up with the 194's lights blinking on both, then decide. I'd be slightly leaning towards the repop.

Kerry

Don't do it man, you'll be sorry!

Anyone have a spare orbit metal ball guide? The really long one? I'm tearing my WH20 down and realized this is the only metal guide Ive ever seen that is long enough to work with my home-brew game (Sonic the Hedgehog) Cant find it for sale anywhere.

All naked

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sexy

Mylar+glue removed. Scrubbed clean.

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Cleaning out some spare parts and found a bumble figure I never ended up using with my white mountains. If anyone wants it just shoot me a PM, you can have it for $20 shipped locally.

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Bumble is on its way to a new home

I've also found some used plastics that came off mine with a few new pieces in there as well. $30 plus first class postage.
Bag on the left, blue on the top, and the clear piece in the bag at the bottom are the new pieces.

Edit: also found a 7pc ramp decal set which is just minus the little sticker for the complete 8pc set. $35 plus shipping

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Adding Titan superior fluted LEDs to my game. The difference is astounding. New on the left, dimmer bullet dome LEDs on the right.

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Put one of these in the left bumper with single SMD bulbs in the others on the right. Really helps light up the Boulder Garden!

DSC_1225 (resized).JPG

Might have to try them myself in the boulder garden area as well. I have always hated how dark it is over there.

Sold long ago.

Touched up and clearcoated. Once it's done curing we shall see if it needs sanding/polishing

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I really need to find one of the protectors for the Big Foot Bluff shot (This post shows one, so apparently they exist, but it's not a Cliffy: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/98#post-5642459). The Scigrip repair held this piece of plastic in place for a few months, but then a *new* crack formed along the bottom and it just now fell out again. If I keep just using Scigrip this piece will eventually shatter into a bunch of tiny pieces.

I did replace the flipper coil with the correct strength a few months ago, so it's not that it's too powerful or anything.

PXL_20200927_221433962 (resized).jpg

Why not make your own? It's a simple plastic hidden by the mountains so it can look as ugly as you want.

I made one myself from a translucent scrap plastic I had and it works great in protecting the switch further up.

20200518_192741 (resized).jpg

Actually I'm not talking about the switch, I've already protected that. I'm talking about the cracking at beginning of the first turn on the ramp. You can see in my pic that it's cracked so bad there's now a hole on the side. The metal piece over that spot in your photo is what I'm looking for.

Looks like that metal piece is from Disaster Drop ramp entrance.
Buy a Disaster Drop ramp protector from Cliffy, and move the original metal piece to Big Foot ramp.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/WH20/wh20cliffy_vs_oem.jpg
http://www.passionforpinball.com/wh20.htm

That's the answer I was looking for, thanks! I think my game already has the cliffy installed, but the guy I bought the game from included all the original ramps, and I found a different metal guide that should work just as well!

Mod overboard?

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Yup.

Oh boy, that's just ugly. So many rafts, animals and other crap, its closer to a toystore than a pin. Ewwwwww.

Man...overboard.

I knew you would like it

I like the waterfall and no way out skull mod... the rest... eh.

That's an expedition amount of rafts! Man Overboard for sure!

Hah, i like the rafts.... the rest eh.

As per @davi's suggestion, I found an old metal guide and cut and shaped it to fit the Bigfoot Bluff ramp. After repairing the plastic with some Scirgrip 3 (This time I managed to do a better job applying it than in previous attempts too), I put the guide in place. It slows the ball down a little bit as it passes through, but not enough to negatively impact gameplay, so this fix seems solid!

PXL_20201006_182901023 (resized).jpg

I've got a new set of boulders/mountains for sale, if anyone is interested.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-wh2o-repro-boulder-set

NOS topper decal....let the fighting begin.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nos-parts-for-sale-cftbl-addams-whitewater#post-5902594

Hey everyone, just trying to clear up a few nagging issues from my White Water playfield swap/rebuild awhile back. When I perform the single switch test, "Always Closed" shows as open. Anyone know what this switch is for, why it would show open and how to resolve it?

I have recently been trying to do more work on my game and not have techs do it for me. That said, I am still learning a lot, and I am getting the message: "Check Switch 54/Lower Jet Area" on the test report with a credit dot coming up. Any direction on how to go about doing that and fixing it? Thanks in advance from a very not-technical pinsider.