(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required

By Skypilot

10 years ago


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  • 630 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by MiniPinHead
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There are 7,815 posts in this topic. You are on page 104 of 157.
#5151 3 years ago

Bigfoot error update and input needed.

My friend found the leak from the capacitor on the small Bigfoot motor board and repaired it. He also ensured the traces were all repaired and had continuity. He sent it back to me today and when I installed it, the same error keeps happening.

1). I must disable Bigfoot in adjustments to start a game
2). In Bigfoot test mode the head only spins counter clockwise even when I press the opposite direction.
3). Optos work fine and register in test mode.

I’m at a loss. I’ve read the threads on here about the error and don’t know where to turn to next. Thoughts?

#5152 3 years ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Bigfoot error update and input needed.
My friend found the leak from the capacitor on the small Bigfoot motor board and repaired it. He also ensured the traces were all repaired and had continuity. He sent it back to me today and when I installed it, the same error keeps happening.
1). I must disable Bigfoot in adjustments to start a game
2). In Bigfoot test mode the head only spins counter clockwise even when I press the opposite direction.
3). Optos work fine and register in test mode.
I’m at a loss. I’ve read the threads on here about the error and don’t know where to turn to next. Thoughts?

Are there any ICs on the board? Maybe they went bad. You can try replacing them if there are.
Or consider buying a new board to avoid the headache.

#5153 3 years ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Bigfoot error update and input needed.
My friend found the leak from the capacitor on the small Bigfoot motor board and repaired it. He also ensured the traces were all repaired and had continuity. He sent it back to me today and when I installed it, the same error keeps happening.
1). I must disable Bigfoot in adjustments to start a game
2). In Bigfoot test mode the head only spins counter clockwise even when I press the opposite direction.
3). Optos work fine and register in test mode.
I’m at a loss. I’ve read the threads on here about the error and don’t know where to turn to next. Thoughts?

If all the optos reg fine, motor looks ok, I would just try swapping in a new board. Marco sells them for 69

#5154 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

If all the optos reg fine, motor looks ok, I would just try swapping in a new board. Marco sells them for 69

thanks. I ordered a new board today.

13
#5155 3 years ago

Back in the raft!!!!

20200724_195000 (resized).jpg20200724_195000 (resized).jpg
#5156 3 years ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Bigfoot error update and input needed.
My friend found the leak from the capacitor on the small Bigfoot motor board and repaired it. He also ensured the traces were all repaired and had continuity. He sent it back to me today and when I installed it, the same error keeps happening.
1). I must disable Bigfoot in adjustments to start a game
2). In Bigfoot test mode the head only spins counter clockwise even when I press the opposite direction.
3). Optos work fine and register in test mode.
I’m at a loss. I’ve read the threads on here about the error and don’t know where to turn to next. Thoughts?

Thrilled to report the replacement board came today and Bigfoot is back in action.

#5157 3 years ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Thrilled to report the replacement board came today and Bigfoot is back in action.

Nice!! happy that worked out for ya.

#5158 3 years ago

My wh20 has the a wrinkle in to foil topper which seems kinda common, how do ppl address this? I was thinking about a heat gun and going slow?

#5159 3 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

My wh20 has the a wrinkle in to foil topper which seems kinda common, how do ppl address this? I was thinking about a heat gun and going slow?

Risk and reward...

#5160 3 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

My wh20 has the a wrinkle in to foil topper which seems kinda common, how do ppl address this? I was thinking about a heat gun and going slow?

I think most people just live with it. You could easily make the situation worse, and there are no replacements to be had.

Fortunately, my topper is in really good shape, so I have not needed to do anything to it.

If you go ahead with the heat gun, please let us know your results.

#5161 3 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

My wh20 has the a wrinkle in to foil topper which seems kinda common, how do ppl address this? I was thinking about a heat gun and going slow?

Bubble or wrinkle? If it's a wrinkle, I don't think there's much you can do, unless it's minor.

If it's a bubble, take a razor and cut a small slit in the foil going parallel to the grain. Heat with a heat gun/hair dryer and smooth out. Without the slit, the air has nowhere to go.

#5162 3 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Bubble or wrinkle? If it's a wrinkle, I don't think there's much you can do, unless it's minor.
If it's a bubble, take a razor and cut a small slit in the foil going parallel to the grain. Heat with a heat gun/hair dryer and smooth out. Without the slit, the air has nowhere to go.

This is what I'm dealing with

20200731_144047 (resized).jpg20200731_144047 (resized).jpg
#5163 3 years ago

Anyone put spotlights in their game? I'm looking at putting some more in and looking for good locations. Right now I just have two on the right sling. I may be able to put two on the left sling if I slightly move the Insanity falls ramp. Feel like I remember seeing some spotlights on the boulders or on the Insanity falls cliff.

#5164 3 years ago

What brightness leds are you using?

#5165 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

What brightness leds are you using?

Opmax sunlight from comet. I have them in all of my GI and my two current spotlights.

#5166 3 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Anyone put spotlights in their game? I'm looking at putting some more in and looking for good locations. Right now I just have two on the right sling. I may be able to put two on the left sling if I slightly move the Insanity falls ramp. Feel like I remember seeing some spotlights on the boulders or on the Insanity falls cliff.

I've got a pair on the right sling, and a pair at insanity falls.

IMG_5477 (resized).jpgIMG_5477 (resized).jpg
#5167 3 years ago
Quoted from EStroh:

I've got a pair on the right sling, and a pair at insanity falls.
[quoted image]

Exactly what I was looking for, thank you! Time to brighten up the mid-field

#5168 3 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

This is what I'm dealing with[quoted image]

You could also very carefully try to smooth it down with a credit card, I did this to mine with good success. You will still end up with a crease, but it won't be as bubbly at least.

#5169 3 years ago
Quoted from EStroh:

I've got a pair on the right sling, and a pair at insanity falls

Love the apron cards , can you share?

#5170 3 years ago
Quoted from EStroh:

I've got a pair on the right sling, and a pair at insanity falls.
[quoted image]

Just did the install. Love all this extra light!

15963281875356773317374933431605 (resized).jpg15963281875356773317374933431605 (resized).jpg
#5171 3 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Just did the install. Love all this extra light![quoted image]

I see you went with the mirror blades as well. I tend to prefer them (slightly) over the art blades. They help add some depth and "dazzle" to the playfiled. In a lineup, they help tie all the machines together IMO.

#5172 3 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Love the apron cards , can you share?

They were one of the few things that came with my pin that I didn't change. I have custom cards on all of my pins, some that I have made, some from other sources like here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only#post-5153032
or here
http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/index.htm

#5173 3 years ago

I agree with Bryan_Kelly... I'd take a very sharp razor knife, cut a slot parallel with the grain and gently massage the air bubble flat.

#5174 3 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

I agree with Bryan_Kelly... I'd take a very sharp razor knife, cut a slot parallel with the grain and gently massage the air bubble flat.

Yeah I think this is the route I'm going to go, new blade and 45 degree angle to get a little over lap

#5175 3 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

Yeah I think this is the route I'm going to go, new blade and 45 degree angle to get a little over lap

I'm in the same boat, let us know how it goes

#5176 3 years ago

I just realized mine was like that too

#5177 3 years ago
Quoted from EStroh:

I've got a pair on the right sling, and a pair at insanity falls.
[quoted image]

D27F9F16-2CAC-417E-BE6B-8D6AA7BE86A7 (resized).jpegD27F9F16-2CAC-417E-BE6B-8D6AA7BE86A7 (resized).jpeg

Left and right sling. Love the extra light.

#5178 3 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

I removed the two controversial posts in the boulder garden area. Now I see why I was always getting the "right jet arena" switch error as the left post had its own single post rubber and the right one formed a triangle, which were both incorrect. I would like to have that area of the playfield configured in the way Dennis Nordman originally envisioned it. I don't anticipate any issues with right outline drains as I have the right outlane post adjusted all the way inward. Doing this after going through the bumper mechs with the added bonus of bouncy Titan rings should really improve the action in that area. Can't wait to see how that works out.

New Whitewater owner here, so help me out please (referencing previous post-same issue I think). The machine is generally in great shape, but as I was taking it apart to put on new rings I was confused with the area called "jet arena" just off Boulder Garden. The post and ring arrangement doesn't match the owners manual nor the operators manual (which actually don't match each other either). It seems like the ball should be allowed to pass thru from boulder garden to jet arena. I'm guessing they should have post rings rather then a ring stretched across the opening between the 2 pop bumpers. Maybe the previous owners modified this area? Please help. Thanks.

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#5179 3 years ago
Quoted from DocFinlay:

New Whitewater owner here, so help me out please (referencing previous post-same issue I think). The machine is generally in great shape, but as I was taking it apart to put on new rings I was confused with the area called "jet arena" just off Boulder Garden. The post and ring arrangement doesn't match the owners manual nor the operators manual (which actually don't match each other either). It seems like the ball should be allowed to pass thru from boulder garden to jet arena. I'm guessing they should have post rings rather then a ring stretched across the opening between the 2 pop bumpers. Maybe the previous owners modified this area? Please help. Thanks.[quoted image][quoted image]

It can be done either way. The way you show it simply prevents right side drains. I prefer the single post rings.

#5180 3 years ago

Thanks Bryan. A lot more digging and I found this discussion also:

Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

It's common to see variations in this area. I don't like that the manual's setting blocks off that whole area. So I left the star post and put a small post-rubber around it. I either did the right rubber like a triangle, or put another post-rubber around the upper star post.

[quoted image]

I'm definitely changing to single post ring.

#5181 3 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

It can be done either way. The way you show it simply prevents right side drains. I prefer the single post rings.

You can also remove the post right next to the center pop entirely. It allows for much more action in the pops, and in my game it was actually installed so close that the pop was getting stuck against the rubber and wouldn't reset very quickly as a result.

#5182 3 years ago

Hi all!

I was replacing my sling plastics today and I noticed the right side plastic sling I got from Marcos is not the same as what was originally in my WW. It's missing the "rounded" part at the top (circled in red). I thought it got damaged during shipping, but the stickers that I peeled off were cut perfectly. Anyone know where I can buy one that is shaped like the original?

Thx!
slings (resized).jpgslings (resized).jpg

#5183 3 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

You can also remove the post right next to the center pop entirely. It allows for much more action in the pops, and in my game it was actually installed so close that the pop was getting stuck against the rubber and wouldn't reset very quickly as a result.

I removed the posts when I re-did mine, love it! way more action in the pops and so far I havent noticed much of an increase in right side drains.

#5184 3 years ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Hi all!
I was replacing my sling plastics today and I noticed the right side plastic sling I got from Marcos is not the same as what was originally in my WW. It's missing the "rounded" part at the top (circled in red). I thought it got damaged during shipping, but the stickers that I peeled off were cut perfectly. Anyone know where I can buy one that is shaped like the original?
Thx!
[quoted image]

I think there were variations even in the originals. I want to say the SP playfield had one type and LS had another but don't quote me on that.

#5185 3 years ago

Please help.

When the ball enters No Way Out and the VUK kicks the ball up and out, sometimes the sound signaling the presence of another ball happens and the VUK fires. Sometimes it will happen only one or twice. Other times it keeps repeating this cycle.

When I am in switch test mode, all sets of optos register separately. What would be your next step to trouble shoot it?

Thanks.

#5186 3 years ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Please help.
When the ball enters No Way Out and the VUK kicks the ball up and out, sometimes the sound signaling the presence of another ball happens and the VUK fires. Sometimes it will happen only one or twice. Other times it keeps repeating this cycle.
When I am in switch test mode, all sets of optos register separately. What would be your next step to trouble shoot it?
Thanks.

I just fixed this same issue on mine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-random-phantom-balls-in-the-vuk-to-the-upper-pf#post-5771028

The key to finding the problem was to play the game with the glass off, and rolling the ball through all the switches until I found the one that falsely triggered the VUK.

#5187 3 years ago
Quoted from EStroh:

I just fixed this same issue on mine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-random-phantom-balls-in-the-vuk-to-the-upper-pf#post-5771028
The key to finding the problem was to play the game with the glass off, and rolling the ball through all the switches until I found the one that falsely triggered the VUK.

Also be sure the plunger isn't sticking in the up position after it launches the ball, this will block the opto and make it re-fire it until it drops.

#5188 3 years ago

I recently got a white water after trading mine years back and have a question about the area near the boulder garden too.

In your picture showing the sling on the angle that connects to the post near “250,000,” is that sling supposed to fire and bounce the ball off it like a pop bumper almost? On mine, the ball just hits the area, and with no force the ball falls or bounces off it. I’m wondering if I have a bad switch but honestly couldn’t remember if it’s supposed to fire and bounce the ball out forcefully or if it’s just a sling the ball hits and bounces off itself.

I appreciate any thoughts and help. Thanks.

https://images.pinside.com/9/96/996328dbd3624dea990ed35571e96a0a11ccb004/resized/large/996328dbd3624dea990ed35571e96a0a11ccb004.jpg

Quoted from DocFinlay:

New Whitewater owner here, so help me out.[quoted image][quoted image]

pasted_image (resized).jpegpasted_image (resized).jpeg
#5189 3 years ago
Quoted from eb94114:

I recently got a white water after trading mine years back and have a question about the area near the boulder garden too.
In your picture showing the sling on the angle that connects to the post near “250,000,” is that sling supposed to fire and bounce the ball off it like a pop bumper almost? On mine, the ball just hits the area, and with no force the ball falls or bounces off it. I’m wondering if I have a bad switch but honestly couldn’t remember if it’s supposed to fire and bounce the ball out forcefully or if it’s just a sling the ball hits and bounces off itself.
I appreciate any thoughts and help. Thanks.
https://images.pinside.com/9/96/996328dbd3624dea990ed35571e96a0a11ccb004/resized/large/996328dbd3624dea990ed35571e96a0a11ccb004.jpg
[quoted image]

It should loosely bounce back. Check the tightness and size of your rubber. On mine it is common for it to go back and forth between the pop and that rubber a few times before coming down. The switch itself doesn't do anything except to set off a sound effect.

#5190 3 years ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Please help.
When the ball enters No Way Out and the VUK kicks the ball up and out, sometimes the sound signaling the presence of another ball happens and the VUK fires. Sometimes it will happen only one or twice. Other times it keeps repeating this cycle.
When I am in switch test mode, all sets of optos register separately. What would be your next step to trouble shoot it?
Thanks.

Hit the other switches on the same row/col as the vuk and see if any also trigger that opto. I had a similar issue and the cause was me wiring a switch backwards (wrong side of the diode)

#5191 3 years ago

Thanks for the help. I had several issues:

The VUK was screwed in backwards (how lame am I?)
The VUK was not attached to the pathway containing the other optos (two small screws that attach it)
The VUK was hitting one of the ball guides when it would fire, not allowing the plunger to extend fully (intermittently).

I have put about 10 games in it since and it seems to be operating properly.

What I love about these types of issues is that they remind you of what you often forget about the mechanics and electronics. Appreciate everyone’s help.

#5192 3 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

It should loosely bounce back. Check the tightness and size of your rubber. On mine it is common for it to go back and forth between the pop and that rubber a few times before coming down. The switch itself doesn't do anything except to set off a sound effect.

Thank you. That’s really helpful to know.

1 week later
#5193 3 years ago

Baby whitewater. If you would like one of these adorable minis they can he found on my Etsy shop https://etsy.me/2OSZcwR

95CCAA57-D729-4D38-9C20-1F7E96EC1F77 (resized).jpeg95CCAA57-D729-4D38-9C20-1F7E96EC1F77 (resized).jpeg
#5194 3 years ago

I joined this club yesterday. Got a great deal on a working example.

I will likely be doing a full restore. Unfortunately it does not have the topper

Any must-do mods/repairs/reinforcing? What are the typical failure points?

118237642_659948684619903_5402135109583728605_n (resized).jpg118237642_659948684619903_5402135109583728605_n (resized).jpg
#5195 3 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

I joined this club yesterday. Got a great deal on a working example.
I will likely be doing a full restore. Unfortunately it does not have the topper
Any must-do mods/repairs/reinforcing? What are the typical failure points?
[quoted image]

Not saying this is a replacement but the next best thing for not having a topper:
Non cutout version
https://treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/white-water/white-water.htm

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8653

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8745

#5196 3 years ago

Yeah after researching around for options I settled on making the "poor mans" topper:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-topper-poor-mans-version

already ordered from TTP and putting together a marco order.

#5197 3 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Any must-do mods/repairs/reinforcing? What are the typical failure points?

Replace C2 electrolytic on the motor control board if not done already (just had mine fail). Cliffy on upper playfield ball drop.

#5198 3 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

I joined this club yesterday. Got a great deal on a working example.
I will likely be doing a full restore. Unfortunately it does not have the topper
Any must-do mods/repairs/reinforcing? What are the typical failure points?
[quoted image]

All the cliffy's. Especially boulder ones and upper drop.

#5199 3 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

All the cliffy's. Especially boulder ones and upper drop.

I order a full set of cliffys for almost every game I get. This will be no exception

#5200 3 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Yeah after researching around for options I settled on making the "poor mans" topper:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-topper-poor-mans-version
already ordered from TTP and putting together a marco order.

order a repro from @pin-pimp. Already comes mounted on plastic. Just need the dome. If you mount the repro with spacers in the back and let it lean forward you get the waterfall effect of the original. I picked one up cheap a while back with no topper as well.

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