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(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



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There are 5271 posts in this topic. You are on page 102 of 106.
#5051 4 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Thanks for that photo, my game is missing the metal form that sits inside the subway altogether--I'll have to try and find one.

You may be able to substitute with something else. The purpose is so the subway doesn't crack from the balls dropping in via the whirlpool.

#5052 4 months ago

thank you soooo much for the picture !!! now i can fix it

#5053 4 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm to scared to drill into these brittle plastic ramps. There are already cracks in the ramp because of previous owners over tightening the nuts. Guess I have to counter-sink using a small file then. Was hoping I just had the wrong fasteners.
Edit: Ok, so I went with the counter sink approach but used a hand driven tool for better control/slower drilling to make sure I wouldn't crack the plastic or go too deep. Used a 7mm wooden drill and drilled just a tiny bit down. Now the screws fit nicely and doesnt protrude at all.
10/10 would drill again
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Dont use a drill.
Use a hole debur tool.

P93_TELESCOPE_DEBURR_TOOLS (resized).jpg
#5054 4 months ago

This is the oldest game I have owned and it's still my, or i should say our No 1 go to.

It's perfect in every way.

1 week later
#5055 4 months ago

Im getting ready to order new rubbers from TITAN. Any suggestions for colors? Or pics of your game. I like the original white rubbers, but was thinking of doing blue posts, blue flipper rubber. Ive seen some use orange for the posts especially the ones on the "mountains". Anyone used the light blue? What are yalls suggestions. Thanks for the imput. Cheers

#5056 4 months ago

White works nice.

#5057 4 months ago

+1 on white. I have used different colors on other games but kept White Water stock looking. Colors would clash with the artwork and boulders imo. White bands, black post sleeves, and black stock rubber on flippers.

#5058 4 months ago

White rubbers, then went with colour matched posts (blue/orange). Looks cool!!

#5059 4 months ago

Thanks for the suggestions, anybody got any pics?

#5060 4 months ago
Quoted from Davedigger:

Thanks for the suggestions, anybody got any pics?

I've got the low bounce blue Titan flipper rubbers. White slings.

15930318622474627749920269168855 (resized).jpg15930318887365188315881231015725 (resized).jpg
#5061 4 months ago

I've got low bounce blue on the flippers, went with orange post sleeves at insanity falls entrance and blue everywhere else and white on slings. No Led's either I kept mine El-Natural.

#5062 4 months ago

So I just finished my fixing/restoration and had a few games on it after testing all lights/flashers/coils/switches.

All test run ok but the bigfoot motor sound kind of bad while turning. Maybe I think it sounds bad only because I haven't put the playfield glass on yet, but currently without it the sound is loud, rattles and almost sound like a gearbox problem. I couldn't get into the gearbox and check (it seem to be riveted shut and no screws).

Should I just wait and see if it breaks in the future or what, suggestions?

Getting a replacement gearbox is rather expensive so not that keen on it if not really neccesary. Anyone serviced their gearbox and have info/pics to share?

Could it be the motor that make the sound (Is it even possible)? I dont have a spare motor to test with unfortunately.

#5063 4 months ago

I'm getting ready to order a new whirlpool ramp to replace my cracked one. Does anyone who has taken the upper playfield off have suggestions as to what I might need to replace once I get going on this (posts, or other hardware?)--be nice to have it handy rather than have to re-order and wait. Thanks.

#5064 4 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Does anyone who has taken the upper playfield off have suggestions as to what I might need

Would redo the flipper while it's apart if needed!

#5065 4 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Does anyone who has taken the upper playfield off have suggestions as to what I might need to replace once I get going on this

Rebuild the flipper, and make sure all the insert lamps are fresh and reliable. There’s a cutout underneath to supposedly aide in doing maintenance without having to remove the whole thing, but it’s pretty much useless. Even reaching the insanity falls lamp is a PITA

#5066 4 months ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Would redo the flipper while it's apart if needed!

I would also change out the coil sleeve in bigfoot coil while that area is accessible.

#5067 4 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

I'm getting ready to order a new whirlpool ramp to replace my cracked one. Does anyone who has taken the upper playfield off have suggestions as to what I might need to replace once I get going on this (posts, or other hardware?)--be nice to have it handy rather than have to re-order and wait. Thanks.

If you don't have the suicide ramp protector (01-11031 I think, left side of ramp entrance) already then get it now. The protector is impossible to mount without the mini pf off as the mounting screws are obstructed by the whirlpool ramp above.

#5068 4 months ago

I've got a CPR plastic set for sale. $140 shipped.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/whitewater/

Also Mantis ramp protectors. $30 shipped.

https://mantispinball.com/product/whitewater-protector-set/

Added 123 days ago:

Parts are sold.

#5069 4 months ago

I had a White Water a while back and traded it. I missed it and was lucky to find a decent one recently for a good price. Two questions now:

1) Where do I get the instruction card replacements?

2) If I were to get LEDs, what type from Comet do you recommend? I was thinking of using all white but not sure what type.

Thanks.

#5070 4 months ago
Quoted from eb94114:

2) If I were to get LEDs, what type from Comet do you recommend? I was thinking of using all white but not sure what type.
Thanks.

Warm White Frosted

#5071 4 months ago

I use blue rubber and light & dark blue posts. I used orange rubber in the boulder garden area but you can't see it.

WW01 (resized).jpgWW03 (resized).JPG
#5072 4 months ago
Quoted from eb94114:

I had a White Water a while back and traded it. I missed it and was lucky to find a decent one recently for a good price. Two questions now:
1) Where do I get the instruction card replacements?
2) If I were to get LEDs, what type from Comet do you recommend? I was thinking of using all white but not sure what type.
Thanks.

Make sure you get LED and GI OCD boards to go with your LEDs. The fading effects will look extremely strobe-y otherwise.

I went with comet sunlight white opmax bayonets for the GI and I love it.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/opmax-bulbs?variant=12387007103020

#5073 4 months ago
Quoted from Davedigger:

Im getting ready to order new rubbers from TITAN. Any suggestions for colors? Or pics of your game. I like the original white rubbers, but was thinking of doing blue posts, blue flipper rubber. Ive seen some use orange for the posts especially the ones on the "mountains". Anyone used the light blue? What are yalls suggestions. Thanks for the imput. Cheers

I just recently finished rehab of my “used/out on route” WH2O that I bought in 2000. I tried to keep the pin close to factory build as per Parts Manuals found online. Game manual shows the Post Covers to be black, but I ended up buying blue which looks much better against/with the Playfield, imo. My WH2O Manual does not call out or reference the color for flipper rubbers, however the Game Manual and the Parts Manual call out two different part #’s for them and only the Parts Manual denotes them as being black. When I bought our WH2O the flipper rubbers were red, so that is what I replaced them with. I prefer the flipper bands being red, especially the lower flippers as the red contrasts well with the Playfield blue areas by them and helps make the red on Wet Willie’s raft standout a little better. I like the blue (a medium blue) of my post covers. As far as a “light blue” for myself it would come down to how “light” of a blue it really is and whether I thought it would enhance the Playfield appearance or not. All comes down to personal preference.

24470AE7-E820-4F5E-8E10-FE7F406A3854 (resized).jpeg40157641-E10C-4F5F-896C-2109AD45F538 (resized).jpegBE8A6B24-98E8-40AE-A851-ED0AC761AA67 (resized).jpeg471EF7B6-41F1-4055-92A2-B6E0CA2F04E1 (resized).jpegA6D8058E-72CB-4A2C-BABF-99FE82A12972 (resized).jpeg
#5074 4 months ago
Quoted from Beldar:

I just recently finished rehab of my “used/out on route” WH2O that I bought in 2000. I tried to keep the pin close to factory build as per Parts Manuals found online. Game manual shows the Post Covers to be black, but I ended up buying blue which looks much better against/with the Playfield, imo. My WH2O Manual does not call out or reference the color for flipper rubbers, however the Game Manual and the Parts Manual call out two different part #’s for them and only the Parts Manual denotes them as being black. When I bought our WH2O the flipper rubbers were red, so that is what I replaced them with. I prefer the flipper bands being red, especially the lower flippers as the red contrasts well with the Playfield blue areas by them and helps make the red on Wet Willie’s raft standout a little better. I like the blue (a medium blue) of my post covers. As far as a “light blue” for myself it would come down to how “light” of a blue it really is and whether I thought it would enhance the Playfield appearance or not. All comes down to personal preference.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Your game looks nice. Keep in mind that when they built these games they had very limited choices of colors to use (black, red and yellow for posts) unlike today. The reds do look pretty good and are a bit bouncier than black, personally I prefer blue ones from Titan. I read in this thread recently that WH20 shipped with regular flippers with a spare set of zipper flippers in the goodie bag, possibly the reverse of that in Europe which may be why the manuals call out two different part numbers.

#5075 3 months ago

I am just about done with my restore. I have the old ramps, mountains and plastics that I’m selling. NOTE: I HAVE NOT CLEANED THESE AS PICTURED. They should flame polish nicely after cleaned. Would love to sell as a lot, but am willing to part out. Make offer. (You will need to pay for shipping.). Bigfoot cave, plastics, and boulders (not in pictures but are available).

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#5076 3 months ago

Probably a very minor issue here, but what might be causing both right lane lights to light up at the same time? And how to fix it?

FC74B828-BE7C-47BC-A069-FB676CB7A186 (resized).jpg
#5077 3 months ago

Someone probably wired them together instead of fixing it right. Look for an extra wire under the playfield and take a look at the lamp matrix for the proper wire colors.

#5078 3 months ago

If anyone who has taken off the upper playfield has any tips on the easiest way to put things back together--that would be cool. Figured as long as I was at it I took off all the ramps to clean everything. Glad I did, should play a lot better after it all goes back together.

#5079 3 months ago

Great video on upper playfield.

#5080 3 months ago

Thanks for that, #4 and #7 were just what I needed to see.

#5081 3 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

If anyone who has taken off the upper playfield has any tips on the easiest way to put things back together--that would be cool. Figured as long as I was at it I took off all the ramps to clean everything. Glad I did, should play a lot better after it all goes back together.

I don't recall any special tricks when I did it. I recommend the usual. Unplug all connectors under the pf and label both sides of each plug with sharpie. Put all fasteners in labeled bags and take pictures of each step as you strip down the pf. More pictures never hurts. Putting it back together would just be the opposite.

#5082 3 months ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Someone probably wired them together instead of fixing it right. Look for an extra wire under the playfield and take a look at the lamp matrix for the proper wire colors.

Thanks, but I don't think this is the case. I noticed that two whole columns light up at the same time per every row. For example when yellow-brown row is activated, both red-green and red-blue lights light up instead of only one. Same happens with every row. A faulty (shorted?) transistor in the lamp board maybe? I'm not very familiar yet with electronics as this is my first game.

#5083 3 months ago
Quoted from Osvivalt:

Thanks, but I don't think this is the case. I noticed that two whole columns light up at the same time per every row. For example when yellow-brown row is activated, both red-green and red-blue lights light up instead of only one. Same happens with every row. A faulty (shorted?) transistor in the lamp board maybe? I'm not very familiar yet with electronics as this is my first game.

So it's almost like there are two columns wired together?

I like to test a playfield separate from the board, just so i can nail down a board issue from a playfield wiring or diode issue. J137 is the columns and J133 is the rows. If you send a voltage through the proper pair of wires in the connectors, a single lamp will light.
pasted_image (resized).png
If more than one lights up on any test, you have a playfield wiring issue or a diode issue. If everything works perfectly, you have a board issue.
pasted_image (resized).png

#5084 3 months ago

I just got my WH20 back together from a restore and the ball wont stay in the 3rd ball position in the cue. Instead, it rolls back down into the drain area which triggers the solenoid to fire again, starting the cycle all over when it should stay in the third ball position awaiting its turn to launch. What would you do to fix it?

F675D9FE-672F-4643-9CD7-CC89382E8A86 (resized).jpeg
#5085 3 months ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

I just got my WH20 back together from a restore and the ball wont stay in the 3rd ball position in the cue. Instead, it rolls back down into the drain area which triggers the solenoid to fire again, starting the cycle all over when it should stay in the third ball position awaiting its turn to launch. What would you do to fix it?
[quoted image]

I think you're missing the wire form that goes in there to prevent a ball from rolling back out of the trough.

Edit: I'm pretty sure it's this part: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6542

#5086 3 months ago

Appreciate the help. Does anyone have a picture of the part attached in the trough? I can’t seem to find it in the manual.

Does the part go where the tiny holes are circled in the attached picture?

EDE916DA-5254-4D83-909E-CDC678722E2A (resized).jpeg
#5087 3 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I think you're missing the wire form that goes in there to prevent a ball from rolling back out of

Major shop job on my WWH2O and my gate is missing as well, however I'm not have the same issue of the ball rolling back ?
Will order the gate on my next order!

#5088 3 months ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Appreciate the help. Does anyone have a picture of the part attached in the trough? I can’t seem to find it in the manual.
Does the part go where the tiny holes are circled in the attached picture? [quoted image]

That's exactly where it goes. It's a one way gate.

This is from my whirlwind.

Screenshot_20200707-214625 (resized).jpg
#5089 3 months ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Major shop job on my WWH2O and my gate is missing as well, however I'm not have the same issue of the ball rolling back ?
Will order the gate on my next order!

In my experience with Sys 11 games (I know WH20 is not a Sys 11 game but shares the same type of trough with many Sys 11 games) it only happens if the ball kick-over (clearly not the official name) is really strong and causes the last ball to rebound back but the gate should definitely be there.

#5090 3 months ago

Alright club, I could use another pair of eyes on this issue. I am wrapping up my restoration and I am finding that when whirlpool is lit, I am getting phantom whirlpool mode starts.

Some things to note:

- When I get a phantom whirlpool mode start, the big foot diverter does not fire. So I feel like that rules out both switches associated with the upper whirlpool ramp.

- The above lead me to wonder if the issue is where the ball drops into the subway and trips the opto. Upon inspection, the metal piece where the opto is attached seems to not be very secure, so I used a zip tie to better hold it in place:

20200707_214225 (resized).jpg

However, the issue still persisted. I did some more play testing and found that hitting it in the pops and the slings seemed to draw the most phantom whirlpool mode starts.

Next, I unplugged the above noted opto and play tested again. The issue stopped.

Dirty opto? This thing did sit in my parts bin for a month in the garage.

Let me know if there is anything else I should consider. Will try cleaning them tomorrow.

#5091 3 months ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

So it's almost like there are two columns wired together?
I like to test a playfield separate from the board, just so i can nail down a board issue from a playfield wiring or diode issue. J137 is the columns and J133 is the rows. If you send a voltage through the proper pair of wires in the connectors, a single lamp will light.
[quoted image]
If more than one lights up on any test, you have a playfield wiring issue or a diode issue. If everything works perfectly, you have a board issue.
[quoted image]

Yeah almost like that, but this didn't happen before. It started doing it only a few days ago. Thanks for help! I'll have to start examining, but it'll take some time as I have a lot going on irl. I'll report more as soon as I get the chance!

#5092 3 months ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Alright club, I could use another pair of eyes on this issue. I am wrapping up my restoration and I am finding that when whirlpool is lit, I am getting phantom whirlpool mode starts.
Some things to note:
- When I get a phantom whirlpool mode start, the big foot diverter does not fire. So I feel like that rules out both switches associated with the upper whirlpool ramp.
- The above lead me to wonder if the issue is where the ball drops into the subway and trips the opto. Upon inspection, the metal piece where the opto is attached seems to not be very secure, so I used a zip tie to better hold it in place:
[quoted image]
However, the issue still persisted. I did some more play testing and found that hitting it in the pops and the slings seemed to draw the most phantom whirlpool mode starts.
Next, I unplugged the above noted opto and play tested again. The issue stopped.
Dirty opto? This thing did sit in my parts bin for a month in the garage.
Let me know if there is anything else I should consider. Will try cleaning them tomorrow.

Well it's obviously the opto. Look at the connections, Make sure the solder isn't screwy on there and not touching. Clean the optos.
But why is the metal piece loose? That woudl make me think it's moving around when it shouldn't be doing weird shit...like when the pop vibrate it

#5093 3 months ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Appreciate the help. Does anyone have a picture of the part attached in the trough? I can’t seem to find it in the manual.
Does the part go where the tiny holes are circled in the attached picture? [quoted image]

It's this one, I think.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6542

#5094 3 months ago

Thanks for looking this up, I just checked and I am also missing this gate.

#5095 3 months ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Alright club, I could use another pair of eyes on this issue. I am wrapping up my restoration and I am finding that when whirlpool is lit, I am getting phantom whirlpool mode starts.
Some things to note:
- When I get a phantom whirlpool mode start, the big foot diverter does not fire. So I feel like that rules out both switches associated with the upper whirlpool ramp.
- The above lead me to wonder if the issue is where the ball drops into the subway and trips the opto. Upon inspection, the metal piece where the opto is attached seems to not be very secure, so I used a zip tie to better hold it in place:
[quoted image]
However, the issue still persisted. I did some more play testing and found that hitting it in the pops and the slings seemed to draw the most phantom whirlpool mode starts.
Next, I unplugged the above noted opto and play tested again. The issue stopped.
Dirty opto? This thing did sit in my parts bin for a month in the garage.
Let me know if there is anything else I should consider. Will try cleaning them tomorrow.

Agree with TheLaw that it's probably an opto. You may need to get into some switch matrix analysis to really figure it out. Sometimes issues will only present themselves when multiple switches are activated at the same time and they can be hard to diagnose unless you figure out the matrix and do some meticulous testing. I also note that optos can have intermittent failures, which can make things extra frustrating.

#5096 3 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Well it's obviously the opto. Look at the connections, Make sure the solder isn't screwy on there and not touching. Clean the optos.
But why is the metal piece loose? That woudl make me think it's moving around when it shouldn't be doing weird shit...like when the pop vibrate it

Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

Agree with TheLaw that it's probably an opto. You may need to get into some switch matrix analysis to really figure it out. Sometimes issues will only present themselves when multiple switches are activated at the same time and they can be hard to diagnose unless you figure out the matrix and do some meticulous testing. I also note that optos can have intermittent failures, which can make things extra frustrating.

Thanks guys. I did some further digging:

- Cleaned the optos and inspected the solder joints/connections. All looked good and still had the issue.
- Switched the opto's with the ones in the disaster drop ramp to see if I could confirm bad optos.. still had the issue!

So this is an original subway, I did clean it when I had it out.. but it's not the clearest plastic.

Try not to laugh at my hack

20200708_141412 (resized).jpg

And now it works fine. Guess it's time for a new subway? Though I dont see this causing any issues.

Thanks for the tips

#5097 3 months ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

And now it works fine. Guess it's time for a new subway?

No need for a new one as long as it works! Good work.

#5099 3 months ago

I spoke too soon, i thought it was fine because I forgot to plug it in, lol. I also read your thread regarding a similar issue. I am going to do some further troubleshooting and may just start a thread so I dont spam the club over the next week.

#5100 3 months ago

I’m brand new to game play. How do you get the Bigfoot to activate? What’s shots (or sequence of shots) do it?

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