(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

6 years ago



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There are 5098 posts in this topic. You are on page 101 of 102.
#5001 34 days ago

.

#5002 34 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

I think chrome looks the best, DO NOT DO WHITE. I picked up a beater that had a black playfield. Ended up cleaning up nicely.

Actually, I prefer the regular stainless steel look over any powder-coating, but to each his own. I find the chrome to be too "blingy".

And yes, when I bought my WH20, the playfield was so dirty that I couldn't tell what condition it was really in. Fortunately, it wasn't too bad. Maybe the layer of dirt protected it from wear.

#5003 34 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

I think chrome looks the best, DO NOT DO WHITE. I picked up a beater that had a black playfield. Ended up cleaning up nicely.

Agree, my wife wanted to do white but I talked her out of it. I was going to do chrome but she really wanted powder coated blue. We decided to compromise and do a blue "candy chrome". I haven't put it on yet but probably will early next week as I am restoring mine right now (documented here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-my-second-restoration-attempt)

#5004 34 days ago

Stainless. Powdercoating looks nasty

#5005 34 days ago

Has anyone done black legs and black rails/lockdown bar?

#5006 33 days ago

Today I learned that your progress in the Whirlpool mode is indicated on the Whirlpool lights (under the Whirlpool)

I was trying to figure out what the numbers on the raft inserts mean. I think it means the number of millions you get for getting to that raft? But you can't get them for the first raft (awards to start at 4 million, not 2).

#5007 33 days ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Today I learned that your progress in the Whirlpool mode is indicated on the Whirlpool lights (under the Whirlpool)
I was trying to figure out what the numbers on the raft inserts mean. I think it means the number of millions you get for getting to that raft? But you can't get them for the first raft (awards to start at 4 million, not 2).

The raft scoring has always been a bit off, mainly because the scoring was reworked late in the game's development. I think that originally it was supposed to award 2 million for the "2" raft, 4 million for the "" raft, etc.

If you look at the original flyer for the machine, it talks about the point values being lower than what was actually used. For example, it says that in Wet Wiley's the hazards are worth 5 million (instead of 10) and that the final moving hazard is worth 50 (instead of 100).

I think some late re-balancing of the points scheme was done, and it made the raft values not really match anymore.

#5008 32 days ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

I was trying to figure out what the numbers on the raft inserts mean. I think it means the number of millions you get for getting to that raft? But you can't get them for the first raft (awards to start at 4 million, not 2).

I think you get 1 million points times the raft number you advance to.

#5009 32 days ago
Quoted from Marten:

I think you get 1 million points times the raft number you advance to.

Sounds accurate to me, starts at 4M.

#5010 31 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Sounds accurate to me, starts at 4M.

Yes, that's the way it works, but I don't believe that this was the way it was originally envisioned to work.

Typically, in B/W machines of that era, the "lit" thing was what you would get if you completed it. In this case you receive the award for the "next" one, not the lit one. I think this was one of the ways they accomplished the point increases that they wanted, without having to change the actual playfield.

#5011 31 days ago

Is this a normal rubber in the Boulder Gardren? I’m not sure it’s supposed to be there.

093D2B35-6E8F-4D28-BBEC-E10ED6E74856 (resized).jpeg1349DB25-DD02-43EB-90E2-0856B7966295 (resized).jpeg
#5012 31 days ago
Quoted from RazorV23:

Is this a normal rubber in the Boulder Gardren? I’m not sure it’s supposed to be there. [quoted image][quoted image]

Factory does not have that rubber installed. With that rubber in, the game plays much easier. Pull it out and be prepared for some massive right outlane drains!

#5013 31 days ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Factory does not have that rubber installed. With that rubber in, the game plays much easier. Pull it out and be prepared for some massive right outlane drains!

I thought its commonly said to not create much more outlane drains but more pop bumper action, I could be wrong though.

#5014 31 days ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Factory does not have that rubber installed. With that rubber in, the game plays much easier. Pull it out and be prepared for some massive right outlane drains!

According to statistics, the lack of post/rubber doesn't generate more right outlane drains.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/81#post-4979269

#5015 31 days ago

It's kind of amazing how this subject pops up about every 3 months...

#5016 30 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

It's kind of amazing how this subject pops up about every 3 months...

It needs to be made a key post for sure...that MIGHT help the people that don't like to search

#5017 30 days ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Factory does not have that rubber installed. With that rubber in, the game plays much easier. Pull it out and be prepared for some massive right outlane drains!

I strongly disagree. When I took the rubber out, I'm getting far less outlane drains.

#5018 29 days ago

I’m doing a restore and during tear down of the playfield I only see one pop bumper plastic top. Is that right? I know the boulders cover then pops, but looking for clarity. Thanks.

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#5019 29 days ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

I’m doing a restore and during tear down of the playfield I only see one pop bumper plastic top. Is that right? I know the boulders cover then pops, but looking for clarity. Thanks.
[quoted image]

That looks odd, all 3 pops are covered by boulders.

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2768&picno=9344

#5020 29 days ago
Quoted from thewool:

That looks odd, all 3 pops are covered by boulders, no standard pop caps are used, at least not on my game.

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2768&picno=9344

#5021 29 days ago

Actually, it's not all that uncommon for the pop bumper boulders to get all busted up. Then, when people see how expensive replacement boulders are, they just use a regular cap instead.

Replacement boulder sets can be found here:

https://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Whitewater-Boulders

#5022 29 days ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

I’m doing a restore and during tear down of the playfield I only see one pop bumper plastic top. Is that right? I know the boulders cover then pops, but looking for clarity. Thanks.
[quoted image]

time to buy a boulder set

#5023 29 days ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

I’m doing a restore and during tear down of the playfield I only see one pop bumper plastic top. Is that right? I know the boulders cover then pops, but looking for clarity. Thanks.
[quoted image]

That's a Data East bumper cap.
https://pu-parts.com/data-east-sega-stern-pop-bumper-caps_5
(The rubber setup is also not correct.)

#5024 28 days ago

I just managed to hit Boomerang Bend 4 times in a row!

If there's one thing this game is missing, it's something that rewards combo shots to Boomerang Bend. Even without that though, wow, what was a rush!

#5025 27 days ago

Anyone the actual callouts for colors and sizes of the original rubber set?

#5026 27 days ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Anyone the actual callouts for colors and sizes of the original rubber set?

Standard White rubbers with black flippers (?)...so says the flyer. I would never use anything but red flipper though

#5027 27 days ago

MotherF..... all I had to do was light the "I" in river and then lock ball 3 and I would finally have made vacation jackpot. Instead I got a damn SDTM ball drain. One of these days I will get it... Ughhh frustrating for sure.

#5028 27 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

MotherF..... all I had to do was light the "I" in river and...

You weren't aiming for the I target were you?

Suck though...so close!!

#5029 27 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

You weren't aiming for the I target were you?
Suck though...so close!!

Shit who knows! I was so excited I mis-hit it and it hit the left green target and came straight back like a rocket down the drain.

#5030 27 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

MotherF..... all I had to do was light the "I" in river and then lock ball 3 and I would finally have made vacation jackpot. Instead I got a damn SDTM ball drain. One of these days I will get it... Ughhh frustrating for sure.

That sucks, but it will be even more fun when you do get it!

Btw. I never shoot for the RIVER targets. Too dangerous.
Just collect the letters by lighting the inlanes when the ball passes. My game is set up (by me ) that when the ball comes out of the goldmine it almost always goes up the right inlane and back down so I get two letters for every whirlpool I shoot.

#5031 27 days ago
Quoted from Marten:

That sucks, but it will be even more fun when you do get it!
Btw. I never shoot for the RIVER targets. Too dangerous.
Just collect the letters by lighting the inlanes when the ball passes. My game is set up (by me ) that when the ball comes out of the goldmine it almost always goes up the right inlane and back down so I get two letters for every whirlpool I shoot.

Yep I normally do that as well but I just couldn't help myself. I tried to go for it and well I struck out. All good though I love this game and will eventually get it.

#5032 27 days ago
Quoted from Marten:

My game is set up (by me ) that when the ball comes out of the goldmine it almost always goes up the right inlane and back down so I get two letters for every whirlpool I shoot.

Back in the day, the arcade that I played at had a WH20 like that.

I have never been able to get mine to work like that. I've tried various different coil strengths and even bought a new whole scoop/bracket. The best I have been able to get is a difficult drop catch situation. Which at least is better than the SDTM or bounce off the inlane bracket that it did before.

#5033 27 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Back in the day, the arcade that I played at had a WH20 like that.

Also helped by the fact the put too large mini post rubber often in that area.

Quoted from Marten:

Btw. I never shoot for the RIVER targets. Too dangerous.

That's what I was getting at, buuuut if that 3rd lock is lit you don;t want to bounce it in there by accident. Chasing a level 2 or 3 MB...now THAT sucks

#5034 27 days ago

Looking for an unbroken boulder for the left side of the playfield above the mine kickout. LMK if you can help.

Mike

#5035 26 days ago

Trying to diagnose a Bigfoot error right now. Motor spins both ways just fine. Opto number two does not seem to be turning on at all while opto number one flickers during the test mode. I recently replaced the ICs on the opto board. Any ideas?

#5036 26 days ago
Quoted from nocreditdot:

Looking for an unbroken boulder for the left side of the playfield above the mine kickout. LMK if you can help.
Mike

Try Pinball Spare Parts (the boulders are darker but not as dark as their photos) https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/03-8786.html
Starship Fantasy: https://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Whitewater-Boulders

#5037 26 days ago

I'm in the process of fixing a wh2o that I recently bought and when I assembled the ramps I noticed these two screws that seem to be wrong. When I roll a ball past them following either ramp side the ball hits the screw heads noticably.

It seems I have the wrong screws but what is the correct ones? The ramp holes are not conical but the screws are. On the underside there are two nuts with a jagged spacer.

I would say the worst screw head protrude about 2mm up.

I would love to find a way to attach the two ramps without any screws but still being able to take them apart (no glue). Any suggestions?

Worst case I have to get me a small file and make the holes conical so the heads sink down properly but if that was needed then shouldn't the ramp have that already from factory...
20200613_143734 (resized).jpg20200613_143754 (resized).jpg

#5038 26 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm in the process of fixing a wh2o that I recently bought and when I assembled the ramps I noticed these two screws that seem to be wrong. When I roll a ball past them following either ramp side the ball hits the screw heads noticably.
It seems I have the wrong screws but what is the correct ones? The ramp holes are not conical but the screws are. On the underside there are two nuts with a jagged spacer.
I would say the worst screw head protrude about 2mm up.
I would love to find a way to attach the two ramps without any screws but still being able to take them apart (no glue). Any suggestions?
Worst case I have to get me a small file and make the holes conical so the heads sink down properly but if that was needed then shouldn't the ramp have that already from factory...
[quoted image][quoted image]

I've always had a similar problem. The right side screw on mine is missing, and the left side one does not look correct. I'd love to know how this is really supposed to be.

Seems like every WH20 that I have seen has some sort of jury-rigged solution for this.

#5039 26 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm in the process of fixing a wh2o that I recently bought and when I assembled the ramps I noticed these two screws that seem to be wrong. When I roll a ball past them following either ramp side the ball hits the screw heads noticably.
It seems I have the wrong screws but what is the correct ones? The ramp holes are not conical but the screws are. On the underside there are two nuts with a jagged spacer.
I would say the worst screw head protrude about 2mm up.
I would love to find a way to attach the two ramps without any screws but still being able to take them apart (no glue). Any suggestions?
Worst case I have to get me a small file and make the holes conical so the heads sink down properly but if that was needed then shouldn't the ramp have that already from factory...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Counter sink those holes. You can buy a bit that matches the profile of the screws.

#5040 26 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Counter sink those holes. You can buy a bit that matches the profile of the screws.

I'm to scared to drill into these brittle plastic ramps. There are already cracks in the ramp because of previous owners over tightening the nuts. Guess I have to counter-sink using a small file then. Was hoping I just had the wrong fasteners.

Edit: Ok, so I went with the counter sink approach but used a hand driven tool for better control/slower drilling to make sure I wouldn't crack the plastic or go too deep. Used a 7mm wooden drill and drilled just a tiny bit down. Now the screws fit nicely and doesnt protrude at all.

10/10 would drill again
20200613_171711 (resized).jpg20200613_171452 (resized).jpg20200613_171654 (resized).jpg

#5041 25 days ago

Those screws look too big. They are pretty small machine screws with a head size roughly 5mm. Mine are totally flush. I also have new ramps and the holes are countersunk. But if my memory serves me , on my original ramps the holes where countersunk as well.

3FABC30C-7A78-4032-98F3-F0D1BF7DEDE7 (resized).jpeg

#5042 25 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Those screws look too big. They are pretty small machine screws with a head size roughly 5mm. Mine are totally flush. I also have new ramps and the holes are countersunk. But if my memory serves me , on my original ramps the holes where countersunk as well.
[quoted image]

To me your screws doesn't look smaller than mine but I could ofc be wrong. I didn't mesasure my head size and simply took a drill a few sizes larger than my screws so I would get a nice counter sink that wasnt too narrow without going so deep.

In second pic one hole is not fixed yet.
In my last pic you can see both screws are completely flush now.

Btw would flame polishing improve the looks around the holes and make those ugly cracks less visible?

#5043 25 days ago

The guy I bought my WH20 had recently replaced those two ramps with new ones and never put any screws back in there. I think he was afraid of screws damaging his new ramps. I have never bothered to put screws in. The game play is totally fine and you would never notice that the two ramps are not physically screwed together. I recommend trying it out with no screws.

#5044 25 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Btw would flame polishing improve the looks around the holes and make those ugly cracks less visible?

Flame polishing works great to clean up scratches, wear, and abrasions on the ramps. BUT... any opening or hole you want to avoid at all costs as the heat will expand any opening in the blink of an eye. I highly encourage to not try and flame polish that area.

elicash some games, those ramps do not fit together nicely, sounds like yours did... in my case I had to use a heat gun to form my ramps so they would meet correctly. The screws also keep that ramp from flapping around when you lift the playfield. whatever works!

#5045 24 days ago

hello, i m cleaning my white water; when i removed the mini playfield, this part felt out. Any idea where it goes ? thanks alot

whitewaterpart (resized).jpg
#5046 24 days ago

That piece helps hold the subway into place underneath the whirlpool.

#5047 24 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

That piece helps hold the subway into place underneath the whirlpool.

thanks : would you be so kind to make a picture of it in place ? i can figure out where it goes .

#5048 24 days ago
Quoted from gismo31:

thanks : would you be so kind to make a picture of it in place ? i can figure out where it goes .

Unfortunately, I can't right now. I'm having some painting done, and there is a bunch of furniture moved into the way.

It is a bracket that holds the subway ramp into place right underneath where the ball drops from the middle of the whirlpool.

#5049 24 days ago

That piece sits inside the subway, and the screw that holds the ramp and spacer in place goes through the hole.

IMG_20200229_143342 (resized).jpg
#5050 24 days ago

Thanks for that photo, my game is missing the metal form that sits inside the subway altogether--I'll have to try and find one.

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