(Topic ID: 218278)

Whitewater

By Gavotron

5 years ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Gavotron
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#1 5 years ago

Ok so we have a check fuse f114 and f115
Both fuses are good
D1 and D2 are good
Checked the continuity on 7812 voltage regulator , all is good ...
Led 1 and Led 6 are not lit , so no 12 volt or 18 volt power TP3 and TP8
What’s next to check and how to obtain the 12 and 18 volts

#3 5 years ago

thank you i had used that info to get as far as i have got so far, i has reading it on my phone tho maybe if i print it off, it will help more.. i have a electrical friend of mine help trouble shoot tonight, but were stuck at no volts getting to TP3 and TP8, told him i would ask pinside for help...

#4 5 years ago

See what the bridge rectifier is doing that sends power to them. Maybe be open on one side. Not blowing fuses, and not passing current through.

LTG : )

#5 5 years ago

You should always test a fuse by removing one side of the fuse from the fuse holder. No LED6 means no 18V and therefore also no 12VR as you've mentioned.

You want to check BR1.

It's likely that it has failed open. If it failed shorted then F114 would be blown. The procedure is documented in the same section as the information for F114/F115 failure.

#6 5 years ago

Ok thank you will let you know, will check the BR1

2 weeks later
#7 5 years ago

Changed the bR1 and still no volts

#8 5 years ago

Also are those jumper wires on br2 factory ?

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#9 5 years ago
Quoted from Gavotron:

Also are those jumper wires on br2 factory ?

Nope, not factory.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from Gavotron:

Also are those jumper wires on br2 factory ?

I dont know if I ever have seen factory jumpers.

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from Gavotron:

Also are those jumper wires on br2 factory ?

No. But they help the weak traces passing current.

LTG : )

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from Gavotron:

Changed the bR1 and still no volts

Without a better look at the board I am only assuming. Check the traces from BR1 to C6 and C7. The traces may go from the component side of the board to the solder side of the board. It looks like there's a jumper there already so it's likely someone has replaced these capacitors and destroyed the through hole.

I just dealt with a similar problem and repair at the Northwest Pinball and Arcade Show.

2 weeks later
#14 5 years ago

fixed the problem, after taking out the board and testing it with another source of power we discovered the board was fine, it ended being the connector i have highlighted here had the blue and white wire wiggle lose somehow, prob during transportation... thanks everybody for you help

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