(Topic ID: 248515)

Whitestar Test Rig Complete - bring out your dead!

By adalogue

4 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by adalogue
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    #2 4 years ago

    Hey Adalog,
    I'm in Seattle (Greenlake) and have a Sega Lost World Jurassic Park with DMD strange behavior - parts of various screens are faded. It shows all is fine with the display tests in the diagnostic menus. I've replaced the display ROM, DMD, DMD power supply, and it does the same. My last thing to do is to swap in a known working DMD controller board. If I find that it is the culprit would I be able to bring it over for you to test and help me determine what needs to be fixed?
    Thanks,
    John Peters

    8 months later
    #7 3 years ago

    Nice work! I've almost got the The Lost World Jurassic Park sorted out, with only the magnets blowing their fuses after several tests. This might be normal but I've upped the fuse value from 3a to 4a and will see what happens. I might hit you up for some testing soon...

    #9 3 years ago
    Quoted from adalogue:

    Will either magnet (Sol5 orbit or Sol14 snagger p/f) powered by J10-3 (50 VDC, fuse F20 3ASB) blow F20? Are you sure you have a slow-blow fuse installed? Do the magnets blow the fuse during gameplay or just testing?

    Yes, either magnet will blow the local fuse if tested about 4 times in a row, and sometimes the F20 fuse will blow. I haven't figured out the pattern yet. Pretty sure that I have slow blow fuses, though they do look different than others - these have a wire with two blobs. The other SB fuses I have are of the spiral-wire variety. I finally got to the playtest stage last night but on the first test the drop target in front of the snagger broke! This game is cursed.

    #14 3 years ago
    Quoted from cudabee:

    If i am not mistaken, the magnet test may only be used very limited time, check the manual for a timetable.

    Thanks. I haven't seen any warnings or advice in the manual about this, but I'm not going to do it anymore!

    Quoted from adalogue:

    You might consider getting a TAF magnet fuse kit and wire the inline fuses to each magnet,

    There are already local fuses by each magnet, with the diode inline. I'm pretty sure that the magnets themselves are good since a new one from PBL does the same. 30 bucks down the tubes there... But at least I know the coils are all good and measure 4.5 ohms'ish.

    Quoted from adalogue:

    You could also do a current measurement by placing a ammeter in series with either magnet

    Unfortunately my multimeter doesn't have an amperage setting so I can't measure the draw but I'll try and borrow one or get a more advanced meter.

    I'm on hold here until I get the replacement drop target so I can perform the full snagger test that uses all 3 magnets in the proper sequence and duration...

    1 week later
    #15 3 years ago
    Quoted from adalogue:

    pulling almost 12A when energized. You could also do a current measurement by placing a ammeter in series with either magnet

    The Snagger Playfield magnet, which would blow the fuse the quickest, hits about 14 amps. I put everything back together, put in 4 amp SB fuses instead of the 3 amp, and instead of tested played a couple games with my hands and flippers. No blown fuses! We'll see how it goes in the long run and I may experiment with going back to the 3A fuses or circuit breakers. Thanks for everyone's input.

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