I have one up and running to bench test CPU/Sound, Driver, and DMD controller boards. If you have one you are interested in having repaired, shoot me a PM.
Sys11/DE, WPC, and Bally/Stern rigs are in process.
(Topic ID: 248515)
Seattle, WA
Hey Adalog,
I'm in Seattle (Greenlake) and have a Sega Lost World Jurassic Park with DMD strange behavior - parts of various screens are faded. It shows all is fine with the display tests in the diagnostic menus. I've replaced the display ROM, DMD, DMD power supply, and it does the same. My last thing to do is to swap in a known working DMD controller board. If I find that it is the culprit would I be able to bring it over for you to test and help me determine what needs to be fixed?
Thanks,
John Peters
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:Hey Adalog,
I'm in Seattle (Greenlake) and have a Sega Lost World Jurassic Park with DMD strange behavior - parts of various screens are faded. It shows all is fine with the display tests in the diagnostic menus. I've replaced the display ROM, DMD, DMD power supply, and it does the same. My last thing to do is to swap in a known working DMD controller board. If I find that it is the culprit would I be able to bring it over for you to test and help me determine what needs to be fixed?
Thanks,
John Peters
PM sent!
Quoted from lordloss:Post a Pic of the rig!
Here is what it was, I’m still tidying up the ribbon cables and built out the DMD mount to include Sys11 displays, will re-post full setup after I re-terminate the proper length. I’ve also moved away from the ATX power supply to transformers, using the power section of the WS driver board for +/- 12V and 5V.
CFA442F3-99BD-49B2-8A1C-DFB756BF0C74 (resized).jpeg
8 months later
I made some refinements on this test rig and created a video/technical document describing what I've done. Biggest difference was abandoning the ATX power supply. Let me know if you see any errors, thanks!
Technical document
https://netorg687511-my.sharepoint.com/:b:/g/personal/adam_pinheadspinball_com/EcVtFGnFxZtClOM-K2t_EvMBKHzdYapNDuohDttDOUzhWw?e=27tH8X
Nice work! I've almost got the The Lost World Jurassic Park sorted out, with only the magnets blowing their fuses after several tests. This might be normal but I've upped the fuse value from 3a to 4a and will see what happens. I might hit you up for some testing soon...
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:Nice work! I've almost got the The Lost World Jurassic Park sorted out, with only the magnets blowing their fuses after several tests. This might be normal but I've upped the fuse value from 3a to 4a and will see what happens. I might hit you up for some testing soon...
Thanks!
Will either magnet (Sol5 orbit or Sol14 snagger p/f) powered by J10-3 (50 VDC, fuse F20 3ASB) blow F20? Are you sure you have a slow-blow fuse installed? Do the magnets blow the fuse during gameplay or just testing?
Quoted from adalogue:Will either magnet (Sol5 orbit or Sol14 snagger p/f) powered by J10-3 (50 VDC, fuse F20 3ASB) blow F20? Are you sure you have a slow-blow fuse installed? Do the magnets blow the fuse during gameplay or just testing?
Yes, either magnet will blow the local fuse if tested about 4 times in a row, and sometimes the F20 fuse will blow. I haven't figured out the pattern yet. Pretty sure that I have slow blow fuses, though they do look different than others - these have a wire with two blobs. The other SB fuses I have are of the spiral-wire variety. I finally got to the playtest stage last night but on the first test the drop target in front of the snagger broke! This game is cursed.
Very cool to see the tweaks on my testers too. Did you have to make your own harnesses for anything? I'm always open to adding more functionality to the lineup.
-Hans
Veendam
If i am not mistaken, the magnet test may only be used very limited time, check the manual for a timetable.
I had several people coming in with last action heroes magnet problems, which all originated in using the test for too long.
Sometimes the transistors fried off the driverboard.
Quoted from HHaase:Very cool to see the tweaks on my testers too. Did you have to make your own harnesses for anything? I'm always open to adding more functionality to the lineup.
-Hans
Your products are great! I don’t think I did anything to improve them, just adapting to this specific application. I made wiring harnesses for the lamp matrix and switch matrix testers, and then some basic 1-to-1 harnesses to get the solenoid testers off the board and adding the power pin, but that’s about it. If you could source 8x10 LED modules for the Whitestar lamp matrix I would buy some for sure!
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:Yes, either magnet will blow the local fuse if tested about 4 times in a row, and sometimes the F20 fuse will blow. I haven't figured out the pattern yet. Pretty sure that I have slow blow fuses, though they do look different than others - these have a wire with two blobs. The other SB fuses I have are of the spiral-wire variety. I finally got to the playtest stage last night but on the first test the drop target in front of the snagger broke! This game is cursed.
You might consider getting a TAF magnet fuse kit and wire the inline fuses to each magnet, that will add another level of diagnostic detail, but also some connector work as they won’t be plug and play. As others have mentioned, the game test code may not be sophisticated enough to limit how long the magnets are energized, resulting in a blown F20. I suspect the magnets themselves are fine, but may be worth measuring resistance of the two magnets, should each be about 4.3 ohms per actionpinball.com, so that’s pulling almost 12A when energized. You could also do a current measurement by placing a ammeter in series with either magnet, just be sure the ammeter is fused higher than that.
Quoted from cudabee:If i am not mistaken, the magnet test may only be used very limited time, check the manual for a timetable.
Thanks. I haven't seen any warnings or advice in the manual about this, but I'm not going to do it anymore!
Quoted from adalogue:You might consider getting a TAF magnet fuse kit and wire the inline fuses to each magnet,
There are already local fuses by each magnet, with the diode inline. I'm pretty sure that the magnets themselves are good since a new one from PBL does the same. 30 bucks down the tubes there... But at least I know the coils are all good and measure 4.5 ohms'ish.
Quoted from adalogue:You could also do a current measurement by placing a ammeter in series with either magnet
Unfortunately my multimeter doesn't have an amperage setting so I can't measure the draw but I'll try and borrow one or get a more advanced meter.
I'm on hold here until I get the replacement drop target so I can perform the full snagger test that uses all 3 magnets in the proper sequence and duration...
1 week later
Quoted from adalogue:pulling almost 12A when energized. You could also do a current measurement by placing a ammeter in series with either magnet
The Snagger Playfield magnet, which would blow the fuse the quickest, hits about 14 amps. I put everything back together, put in 4 amp SB fuses instead of the 3 amp, and instead of tested played a couple games with my hands and flippers. No blown fuses! We'll see how it goes in the long run and I may experiment with going back to the 3A fuses or circuit breakers. Thanks for everyone's input.
Cool! I think 4A SB fuses are just fine for those magnets:
3.5A SB will blow in about 5 seconds at 14A and 5A SB will blow in about 10 seconds, 4A is somewhere between. 20N10L transistor can handle 20A constant current, so if the coil locks on, even a 5A fuse blows before transistor (if it’s not already blown and causing the lock on).
3.5A SB will blow in about 25 msec with a dead short and 5A SB in about 50 msec, transistor rated at 60A peak current (for 0.100 msec) So the transistor would probably still blow in a dead short no matter what the fuse rating was, but the chances of a dead short are very low, and that would happen with any slow blow fuse.
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