(Topic ID: 298232)

White Water - Weird Switch Issue

By MaxAsh

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 62 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by MaxAsh
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

2222 (resized).jpg
1234 (resized).jpg
WH2O_sw57 (resized).jpg
WH2O_greenblackvolt_1 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
WH2O_U20 (resized).jpg
WH2O_J207-6 (resized).jpg
WH2O_sw_matrix (resized).jpg
WH2O_Opto_Board_2 (resized).jpg
WH2O_Opto_Board_schem (resized).jpg
WH2O_Opto_Board_1 (resized).jpg
There are 62 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 2 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Nope, its a 1-way roll under switch, the bracket is unobtainium, but the switch itself is readily available.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-21

Yep, that's the one in my cart currently. Thankfully I have the bracket. It's actually listed as the same switch as the one further down the ramp, but mounted underneath. It's under the small mountain plastic above the shooter lane area about mid playfield I think. I was just curious if the actuator on the top-mount one is bent in any different way, or just looks like it does in the pic on Marco.

I have some ideas for getting it remounted, so I'm going to look into those before ordering the ramp.

Back on the original topic, I'm ordering the U20 (with some spares) and a few other things. I've discovered some other minor issues and fixed them (wires loose on an intermittent ramp switch, etc). We'll see how things go with the new opto board and new U20. I do want to solicit some help with my coin door area interconnect board, but I will wait on this stuff first I think. That interconnect board has all sorts of cut/hacked wires.

#52 2 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Yep, that's the one in my cart currently. Thankfully I have the bracket. It's actually listed as the same switch as the one further down the ramp, but mounted underneath. It's under the small mountain plastic above the shooter lane area about mid playfield I think. I was just curious if the actuator on the top-mount one is bent in any different way, or just looks like it does in the pic on Marco.
I have some ideas for getting it remounted, so I'm going to look into those before ordering the ramp.
Back on the original topic, I'm ordering the U20 (with some spares) and a few other things. I've discovered some other minor issues and fixed them (wires loose on an intermittent ramp switch, etc). We'll see how things go with the new opto board and new U20. I do want to solicit some help with my coin door area interconnect board, but I will wait on this stuff first I think. That interconnect board has all sorts of cut/hacked wires.

Yeah, these games were "bandaided and bublegummed" together to keep em going out in the wild. Getting rid of the hacks and rigs takes time. You have to stay focused on one problem at a time or these things will have you chasin your tail.

#53 2 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Yep, that's the one in my cart currently. Thankfully I have the bracket. It's actually listed as the same switch as the one further down the ramp, but mounted underneath. It's under the small mountain plastic above the shooter lane area about mid playfield I think. I was just curious if the actuator on the top-mount one is bent in any different way, or just looks like it does in the pic on Marco.
I have some ideas for getting it remounted, so I'm going to look into those before ordering the ramp.
Back on the original topic, I'm ordering the U20 (with some spares) and a few other things. I've discovered some other minor issues and fixed them (wires loose on an intermittent ramp switch, etc). We'll see how things go with the new opto board and new U20. I do want to solicit some help with my coin door area interconnect board, but I will wait on this stuff first I think. That interconnect board has all sorts of cut/hacked wires.

If you need a set of Cliffy's for your WH2O I have a complete set I ordered and don't need, will sell them to you for the price of a new set and cover shipping myself. PM me if interested. http://www.passionforpinball.com/wh20.htm

#54 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

If you need a set of Cliffy's for your WH2O I have a complete set I ordered and don't need, will sell them to you for the price of a new set and cover shipping myself. PM me if interested. http://www.passionforpinball.com/wh20.htm

Cool thanks, I'll take a look and let you know!

#55 2 years ago

Update:

Parts all finally arrived! I went through and did some additional testing before putting in the new ICs, or the new Opto board. I was able to verify that all voltage issues and weirdness I was detecting was definitely board-based, so I went ahead and swapped the U20 chip. I left the opto board unplugged initially, and was happy to find that all of the switches in the dead column of the matrix were registering. Success there.

I swapped out the Opto board, and fired it up again, optos are now all registering as well! So, from what I can tell, it was definitely U20 and the Opto board that were the major culprits.

That being said, I have discovered other issues, which may or may not be related. Keep in mind that one of the things I noticed originally was that the Slings were triggering the Opto boards. I *think* this is resolved, but will test again to be sure. However, that got me to thinking, so I checked some other things. Sure enough, neither of the slings have the correct Solenoids on them (based on the manual).

Per the Manual, slings should have AE-27-1200
Right Sling has a AE-27-1300
Left Sling has a 24-900-01

Is the AE-27-1300 close enough to the proper AE-27-1200 to be used? If I remember correctly, the "27" is the wire gauge, and since that matches that's a good thing. The 1300 vs. 1200 is the number of turns, and less turns = stronger coil. So if anything, the current AE-27-1300 is just slightly weaker than the manual's suggested AE-26-1200, but it should be okay to leave in place. Does that sound right?

Obviously I need to replace the one in the left sling, which isn't even close to the correct coil.

I also noticed that the coil for the Whirlpool Popper (AE-23-800) has a broken lug that's arcing to make connection at times, which is not good. Going to see if I can repair it as-is until a replacement arrives.

#56 2 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Obviously I need to replace the one in the left sling, which isn't even close to the correct coil.

I'd replace both so the kick matches.

LTG : )

#57 2 years ago

Good to see you got it up and running. Thanks for posting the results. So many never post up the results of the repair and leave us hanging.

#58 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd replace both so the kick matches.
LTG : )

Okay, will do. I'll need to order the other, but at least I can replace the one that's more incorrect first. I mostly just wanted to verify it was okay to use the slightly weaker, but close, one temporarily while I fixed everything else.

I try to always come back for updates, I know what you mean about threads being left hanging! Still a ways to go on this one, but this is big progress. I fixed a coil that was arcing on a broken lug (new coil will be ordered, but it's good for now). One of the now-restored to working switches was stuck closed, took care of that too. I need to solder several loose wires back on in other places, then I'll do some additional testing and report back.

#59 2 years ago

Just "played" a game, and we're looking pretty good. Assuming I can get that ramp-mounted switch setup on the bigfoot ramp, I'll be pretty good to go in terms of full functionality. I'll check back in after I come up with a plan there!

#60 2 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Just "played" a game, and we're looking pretty good. Assuming I can get that ramp-mounted switch setup on the bigfoot ramp, I'll be pretty good to go in terms of full functionality. I'll check back in after I come up with a plan there!

You might want to consider using a MRS since your ramp mounting points are cracked and you don't have the arm on the switch anyway. I've not done this personally, just a thought I had.

#61 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

You might want to consider using a MRS since your ramp mounting points are cracked and you don't have the arm on the switch anyway. I've not done this personally, just a thought I had.

He certainly can - and eliminate a lot of headache!

Just hit us up if you want an MRS for your ramp...

Matt

2 weeks later
#62 2 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

He certainly can - and eliminate a lot of headache!
Just hit us up if you want an MRS for your ramp...
Matt

That's a really cool solution. I actually missed this post, unfortunately. But I was able to fix my switch issue by using a method similar to Lhyrgoif suggested. I created and mounted a piece of cut-to-fit lexan over the ramp, and mounted a new switch to it, where it was originally located. It's working great, and you can't even see any of it underneath the mountains anyway. I could have made it a lot uglier I guess, but I'm glad it goes with the shape of the ramp, just for aesthetics when the mountains are off.

I will definitely have to remember the MRS option in the future though, great for situations like this.

As for White Water in general, everything seems to be working great now. Such a fun game. Going to go through it all again to verify I'm good to go, but things are looking great so far. Thank you to everyone for all the help!

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 10.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 189.00
Playfield - Plastics
Starcade Amusement
 
$ 119.99
Cabinet - (Alt) Translites
FlyLand Designs
 
$ 9.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 22.50
Magazines/books
Pinball Magazine
 
$ 5.95
Lighting - Led
Mitchell Lighting
 
$ 1,059.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
 
$ 225.00
Cabinet - (Alt) Translites
FlyLand Designs
 
$ 34.99
Rubber/Silicone
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
 
$ 12.95
$ 60.00
Cabinet - Decals
Pinball Haus
 
6,500
Machine - For Sale
Montpelier, VA
$ 15.00
Playfield - Other
Nezzy's Pinball Prints
 
$ 225.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
 
From: $ 110.00
Lighting - Interactive
Pinball Z
 
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 12.95
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
 
17,250 (OBO)
7,699 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Evansville, IN
$ 9.95
Lighting - Led
Mitchell Lighting
 
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 399.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
 
7,600
Machine - For Sale
Sugarloaf, CO
$ 84.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
FlyLand Designs
 
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
 
$ 69.50
Boards
Pinball Haus
 
$ 329.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
There are 62 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-weird-switch-issue/page/2 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.