(Topic ID: 336948)

White Water Switch/Gameplay Issues [SOLVED]

By Kingjowjow

1 year ago


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#1 1 year ago

Greetings Everyone,

I recently picked up a White Water and was seeing if anyone had some insight on the minor problems I've been having. For starters Switch 46 Left Ramp, 54 Lower Jet, 55 Right Jet, 58 Big Foot Cave, and F3 L Flipper E.O.S are showing up as errors on startup, other than that I'm getting no errors. I'm not sure if any of these switch errors play any part in my current issues.

Water Flipper Sound When Flipping
- I've noticed on a number of White Waters I've played in the wild had the same issue, when you flip either flipper it often times makes the water wave crashing sound. Not too sure how to fix this issue, it seems to happen with both flippers.

Ball stuck in Mine During Multiball
- I've also seen this a few times on machines in the wild where a ball gets stuck in the mineshaft during multiball and also the 2-ball Whirlpool multiball.

My Big Problem is when I light the top Whirlpool Red shot, it gets started when I hit the center shot, and other times randomly started. Not sure if this is related to the broken switches or not.

The last question is a little off-topic from the rest, my rafts are mismatched in color and I will be replacing them but was curious as to if when you replace LED lights you color-match them to the insert or keep them white and let the color insert do the work. This White Water I now have seems to be a mix of both, the rafts have orange LEDs and White ones. I was planning on using all Yellow LEDS for them instead of the mixed batch they are now. I've done color matching in the past on other machines but was unsure if most collectors keep the white bulb or color match.

I've added a short video and pictures to help display my issues. I appreciate any feedback and look forward to hearing from you guys soon!


Switch_Errors (resized).pngSwitch_Errors (resized).png

#2 1 year ago

To add to this I've been told from the White Water Club that Switch #58 could be the issue that leads to the other ones not working, any thoughts on all of this? Thanks!

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

Switch #58 could be the issue that leads to the other ones not working,

Could be a broken wire on the "5's" wire or "8's" from switch to switch. Look over the switch matrix in your manual for the column or row to check.

LTG : )

#4 1 year ago

Have you tried the switches in test mode. Switch 58 may not have been hit in several games. Switches 54 and 55 may not be registering when ball hits the rubbers and the switch leaf needs adjustment. Similar, the micro switch on the ramp needs to be adjusted.

All white leds for the raft inserts in my opinion. No need to colour match yellow.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Could be a broken wire on the "5's" wire or "8's" from switch to switch. Look over the switch matrix in your manual for the column or row to check.
LTG : )

Hey LTG, thanks for chiming in on this. You helped me out last year on a Dr. Dude switch issue I was having much appreciated.

Upon further inspection of the Bigfoot Cave switch I found a broken off wire (white) and the other (green) hanging on by a thread. Hopefully re soldering that will take care of the Bigfoot cave switch.

Testing the Left ramp switch it does not make a clicking sound at all when pressed so I think that one needs to be replaced all together.

Still a little confused on the Switches 54 and 55 located in the boulders of the game, I didn’t see any issues below the playfield or on the board in the connectors.

Also, still getting a switch Error for the L. Flipper E.O.S which I’m not too sure how to go about fixing.

Appreciate any feedback from you thanks again!

Quoted from 7oxford:

Have you tried the switches in test mode. Switch 58 may not have been hit in several games. Switches 54 and 55 may not be registering when ball hits the rubbers and the switch leaf needs adjustment. Similar, the micro switch on the ramp needs to be adjusted.
All white leds for the raft inserts in my opinion. No need to colour match yellow.

Thanks for the comment! I went ahead and took you opinion on using Cool Whites under the rafts and it looks great!

For Switches 54 and 55 do you have any tips on tackling those? I check under the playfield and the backbox looks good for all connections, I'm not to familiar with messing around with the leaf switches located in the rubbers, would love to hear any tips you have on diagnosing that.

58 switch was solved as mentioned above broken wires connecting to the switch hopefully soldering them back will solve it.

the micro switch on the ramp makes no clicking noise at all when I test it I'm pretty sure its toast and needs to be replaced all together.

Thanks for any input you have on any of this, good to hear from another White Water owner.

On a side note from everything above, still have a few other issues.

I realized that the right sling no longer works, it used to be just weak now it does not work at all. Never worked on a sling before, not to sure how to go about it.

Another thing I noticed when I took off the speaker panel I realized the game had 2 new speakers and a cylinder looking volume control attached to them just kind of laying in the back box, not sure if is another volume or not or if it goes in the hole in the picture below.

Whirlpool award still randomly starts when center hazard is shot and whirlpool award is lit.

Ball always gets stuck in mineshaft during both multi balls

Really annoying splashing sound always goes off randomly when I flip, not sure if this has anything to do with the F3 L. Flipper E.O.S.

My other game I own has a little arm you use to hold up the playfield after you lift it, the White Water does not seem to have one and when I pull out the playfield it seems to slide really rough, just wood on metal, is this normal or is there a better way to lift up the playfield?

I've added pictures of the majoirty of issues,Thanks again for check out the post hope to hear from some of you soon!

Busted Bigfoot Cave Switch (resized).pngBusted Bigfoot Cave Switch (resized).pngspeaker volume (resized).pngspeaker volume (resized).pngswitches 54 and 55 (resized).pngswitches 54 and 55 (resized).pngSwitch_Diagram (resized).pngSwitch_Diagram (resized).png
#6 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

still getting a switch Error for the L. Flipper E.O.S which I’m not too sure how to go about fixing.

Dedicated switches are the right hand column in your switch matrix for the EOS switches.

First step is check all four EOS switches in your game, most likely a broken wire at one of them.

LTG : )

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

Switches 54 and 55

According to your switch matrix I'd take a look at switches #53 and #56 green wire with the black stripe, though fixing #58 might fix all this. Solder the green wire black stripe on better and the white wire goes to the lug with the black end of the diode.

LTG : )

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Dedicated switches are the right hand column in your switch matrix for the EOS switches.
First step is check all four EOS switches in your game, most likely a broken wire at one of them.
LTG : )

Thanks for the tip ill take at look at all 4 EOS switches and see whats going on

Quoted from LTG:

According to your switch matrix I'd take a look at switches #53 and #56 green wire with the black stripe, though fixing #58 might fix all this. Solder the green wire black stripe on better and the white wire goes to the lug with the black end of the diode.
LTG : )

I'll definlity get to soldering #58, I didn't know #53 and #56 could have any effect on it because im not getting any errors on them when I start the game?

Thanks again for all the info, I'm going to get to fixing and report back!

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

I didn't know #53 and #56 could have any effect on it because im not getting any errors on them when I start the game?

You don't get errors on them because they work. But a wire off of one of them ( or #54 or #55 ) gives you the error for #54 and #55 .

LTG : )

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

Another thing I noticed when I took off the speaker panel I realized the game had 2 new speakers and a cylinder looking volume control attached to them just kind of laying in the back box, not sure if is another volume or not or if it goes in the hole in the picture below.

Someone may have upgraded your speakers, replaced the 4 ohm with a 8 ohm woofer. That’s an l-pad or rheostat and rebalances the sound between the woofer and the two mid range small speakers. If everything sounds ok, then just leave it.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

You don't get errors on them because they work. But a wire off of one of them ( or #54 or #55 ) gives you the error for #54 and #55 .
LTG : )

Ah gotcha appreciate it! I picked up new switches for #46 and #58 because the ones I currently have no longer make the clicking noise when activated, on top of the busted wires on Switch #58. I still have some diodes left over from my last pinball project I assume these will work for the switches. Lemme know if you see anything off here as far as what I purchased for the switches.
POST 3 SWITCH BUYS (resized).pngPOST 3 SWITCH BUYS (resized).png

Also, I was checking all of the E.O.S. switches like you mentioned but I can't seem to find Upper Left E.O.S. Switch F7, not even seeing it in the manual?
eos f7 missing (resized).pngeos f7 missing (resized).png

Quoted from 7oxford:

Someone may have upgraded your speakers, replaced the 4 ohm with a 8 ohm woofer. That’s an l-pad or rheostat and rebalances the sound between the woofer and the two mid range small speakers. If everything sounds ok, then just leave it.

Yeah definilty looks like an upgrade thanks for the feedback, gonna leave it as is! As you mentioned in a previous reply above about adjusting the leaf switches for better contacts, do you know any good posts or videos that can demonstrate that? Thanks for any feedback much apprecated!

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

but I can't seem to find Upper Left E.O.S. Switch F7,

The diagram you posted is for matrixed switches, not dedicated. Upper left flipper, the EOS is under the playfield on the upper left flipper baseplate just like the other 3 flipper EOS switches.

LTG : )

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

The diagram you posted is for matrixed switches, not dedicated. Upper left flipper, the EOS is under the playfield on the upper left flipper baseplate just like the other 3 flipper EOS switches.
LTG : )

Ah gotcha my mistake, I'm going to get to soldering when I get my new switches in the mail and report back to you thanks again.

#14 1 year ago

Ah White Water only has 3 flippers, so try as you might you're not gonna find the upper left cause it's not there lol. If you checked all the other ones you should be good.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from Link_Standard:

Ah White Water only has 3 flippers, so try as you might you're not gonna find the upper left cause it's not there lol. If you checked all the other ones you should be good.

Curious what error he sees then ? Maybe a flipper button opto error.

LTG : )

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Curious what error he sees then ? Maybe a flipper button opto error.
LTG : )

Might have been repurposed for something else. Now you got me curious. I'm gonna sit here looking at the manual for 20 minutes. lol

Edit: Actually just re-read op, the F3 left flipper E.O.S. is probably just broken or out of alignment.

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from Link_Standard:

Might have been repurposed for something else. Now you got me curious. I'm gonna sit here looking at the manual for 20 minutes. lol
Edit: Actually just re-read op, the F3 left flipper E.O.S. is probably just broken or out of alignment.

Yeah just 3 flippers, I was just curious to why there is a F7 E.O.S. kinda strange. I'll check F3 when I get home. Is it normally just the leafs that mis aligned that causes the E.O.S. errors?

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

I was just curious to why there is a F7 E.O.S.

Is that exactly what the error is that reports on the DMD ?

Or just what is in the manual ?

LTG : )

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Is that exactly what the error is that reports on the DMD ?

Or just what is in the manual ?

Had another thought. If that error is coming up on your DMD, do you have the latest ROM in it ?

LTG : )

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Had another thought. If that error is coming up on your DMD, do you have the latest ROM in it ?
LTG : )

I believe so but I'll double check when I get off work, LH6 is the most current ROM for WW if I'm not mistaken.

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

I believe so but I'll double check when I get off work, LH6 is the most current ROM for WW if I'm not mistaken.

LTG Thanks for bringing this to my attention, apparenlty I still have ROM L - 5 installed. Could that be an issue? It seems LH-6 which is the newest ROM contains a ton of features and upgrades to free play version, I found a good link to pick one up here on pinside.. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1089-pinballrom/06317-rom-white-water-cpu-lh6

Not sure if my old L - 5 ROM which is from 1993 I belive has any effect on the errors I'm having, lemme know if it's a good idea to upgrade to LH6.
A few other questions are is the LH6 pretty easy to install just pull out the old one and plug in the new one?
Also, is NVRAM a must have? I still have batteries in this White Water.

Thanks for any feedback!

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#22 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

is the LH6 pretty easy to install just pull out the old one and plug in the new one?

Power off. Slow and carefully. Don't go by the label, go by the indent on the new one and silk screened on the board. See my picture for example.

You didn't answer, does any error report on the DMD when you turn the game on, or once powered up hit the enter button ? If so what exactly is the error reported ?

LTG : )

closeup-ic-polarity (resized).jpgcloseup-ic-polarity (resized).jpg
#23 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Power off. Slow and carefully. Don't go by the label, go by the indent on the new one and silk screened on the board. See my picture for example.
You didn't answer, does any error report on the DMD when you turn the game on, or once powered up hit the enter button ? If so what exactly is the error reported ?
LTG : )
[quoted image]

Thanks for the picture, from what I've seen for the LH-6 ROM install it's plug and play no need to solder.

For the Error Report on the DMD when I turn the game on I get the following errors

Check Switch 46 LFT. Ramp Enter

Check Switch 54 Lower Jet Area

Check Switch 55 Lower Jet Area

Check Switch 58 BigFootCave

Check Switch F3 L. Flipper E.O.S. Lower Jet Area

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

Check Switch F3 L. Flipper E.O.S. Lower Jet Area

F3 is lower left flipper. EOS isn't working, check it's EOS and the other two flipper EOS's for a broken wire.

Quoted from Kingjowjow:

Check Switch 46 LFT. Ramp Enter

Check Switch 54 Lower Jet Area

Check Switch 55 Lower Jet Area

Check Switch 58 BigFootCave

Check Switch F3 L. Flipper E.O.S. Lower Jet Area

You can check any of these in Tests - Switch Edge. See if they work there with your finger. If not clean them ( put a piece of paper between the contacts and gently push the leaf blades closed and pull the paper out ) then check for broken wires there or at other switches with the same color wires.

The "5's" green wire with a black stripe, you most likely have a broken wire killing them. Grab a meter and check continuity of the green wire with a black stripe from switch #53 Ball Shooter to switch #57 Canyon Main and to switch #58 Big Foot Cave. Try and track down where the break is.

Switch #46 Left Ramp Enter - check that switch for a broken wire or see if it just needs adjusting. See if the switch clicks when you trigger it though I doubt it's a bad switch.

Quoted from Kingjowjow:

Thanks for the picture, from what I've seen for the LH-6 ROM install it's plug and play no need to solder.

Yes, no need to solder. I'd fix your switch issues first and get everything working before you do that.

LTG : )

#25 1 year ago

Thanks for the tips on all my errors, I agree I will make sure to get all of these errors taken care of before I dive into replacing the ROM and NVRAM.

Quoted from LTG:

Grab a meter and check continuity of the green wire with a black stripe from switch #53 Ball Shooter to switch #57 Canyon Main and to switch #58 Big Foot Cave. Try and track down where the break is.

I've used my multimeter before on my other machine but mainly for GI issues, I don't have much experience checking continuity between wires and switches. Newbie question, but would I have my meter on the diode setting and then put one end of the meter on the solder of the green wire connecting to the switch on #53 and putting the other end of the meter to green wire connecting to switch #57 or vice versa. Any tips on checking continuity between switches like your mentioning would be much appreciated! Thanks, LTG.

My Multimeter

20230520_003033 (resized).jpg20230520_003033 (resized).jpg
#26 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

Newbie question, but would I have my meter on the diode setting

If it makes a tone when you touch the probes together, yes, or ohms, touch the probes together, what is on the meter face should be the same when checking continuity of the wire.

Quoted from Kingjowjow:

Any tips on checking continuity between switches like your mentioning would be much appreciated!

Start drinking heavily. Sorry, it's late. I needed some humor.

I'd start at #53 then check to #58, and then work your way back. #57, #56, #55, #54 . Try and figure where it stops.

Youtube has lots of short videos on checking continuity. You might even find one using your brand of meter.

LTG : )

#27 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Youtube has lots of short videos on checking continuity. You might even find one using your brand of meter.

LTG : )

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

Thanks for bringing this to my attention, apparenlty I still have ROM L - 5 installed. Could that be an issue? It seems LH-6 which is the newest ROM contains a ton of features and upgrades to free play version, I found a good link to pick one up here on pinside.. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1089-pinballrom/06317-rom-white-water-cpu-lh6

Not sure if my old L - 5 ROM which is from 1993 I belive has any effect on the errors I'm having, lemme know if it's a good idea to upgrade to LH6.

5 is fine, that is the last officially released and supported version for Whitewater. LH6 (the home means 'home' rom) was released later on by Cameron Silver adding those features. You can set any WPC rom to free play. As far as home roms go, any one released is supposed to be freeplay only, this was to prevent any possible issues on what is basically a fan-made version (even though it was written by a WMS employee) from being installed in an arcade for coin play. Often these get hacked to be able to take coins again. This is partially because the home rom does not go through the extensive testing and validation that a released version does.

Have you checked yet to make sure you don't have a broken wire chain from switch to switch, that can be common for the flipper switches for instance. Have you also tried a factory reset in the utility menu and then after resetting your settings, test the switches then? Sometimes that works.

Also make sure the square ASIC in the middle of the mpu board is seated correctly (just push on it gently with the power off).

Post a picture/look VERY closely with a bright light at the bottom of your mpu board - any corrosion from previous battery leakage can cause switch matrix issues. As far as NVram goes, good upgrade but the main ram chip is not socketed on the mpu board, and the traces are fragile so if you aren't good at desoldering/soldering, leave that one for someone experienced. Getting batteries off the board via nvram or remote mounting is a very good thing. Nvram better IMO because then you don't have to worry about either changing the batteries or having corrosion creep up the remote mounting wire.

#29 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

5 is fine, that is the last officially released and supported version for Whitewater. LH6 (the home means 'home' rom) was released later on by Cameron Silver adding those features. You can set any WPC rom to free play. As far as home roms go, any one released is supposed to be freeplay only, this was to prevent any possible issues on what is basically a fan-made version (even though it was written by a WMS employee) from being installed in an arcade for coin play. Often these get hacked to be able to take coins again. This is partially because the home rom does not go through the extensive testing and validation that a released version does.
Have you checked yet to make sure you don't have a broken wire chain from switch to switch, that can be common for the flipper switches for instance. Have you also tried a factory reset in the utility menu and then after resetting your settings, test the switches then? Sometimes that works.
Also make sure the square ASIC in the middle of the mpu board is seated correctly (just push on it gently with the power off).
Post a picture/look VERY closely with a bright light at the bottom of your mpu board - any corrosion from previous battery leakage can cause switch matrix issues. As far as NVram goes, good upgrade but the main ram chip is not socketed on the mpu board, and the traces are fragile so if you aren't good at desoldering/soldering, leave that one for someone experienced. Getting batteries off the board via nvram or remote mounting is a very good thing. Nvram better IMO because then you don't have to worry about either changing the batteries or having corrosion creep up the remote mounting wire.

Thanks for the detailed response! I will try and factory reset when I get home. Does that effect anything? High scores, current settings ect? Hopefully that will fix some of the non working switches. I never though about ASIC setting correctly I'll check that as well. I have some experience soldering switches on ramps on my other machine, but have yet to solder chips on the boards. I plan on getting more games in the near future and want to learn how, so I will definitely be trying to solder the NVRAM chip myself when I get to that stage after I fix these switches, NVRAM seems like the way to go over these batteries. I do want to pickup the new ROM just because of its added lighting features and new ball save, white water with no ball save can be brutal and u can always turn it off in the new ROM, being plug in and no soldering seems to make a new ROM install pretty simple and all my games are home only and don't plan and routing them. Thanks again!

#30 1 year ago

Thank you for the video tutorials! I guess my confusion is when testing from switch to switch to find the break is where I am supposed to put the leads of the meter. Do I put them directly on the end of the wire that connects to the switch?

#31 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

Do I put them directly on the end of the wire that connects to the switch?

Yes. If the wire is still on the switch.

LTG : )

#32 1 year ago

<disclaimer>The following is entirely my own opinion. Some may find it offensive. It is your right to think it so. Since this is a public forum, it is also my right to post my opinion.</disclaimer>

This thread has gone nowhere for a few days now. The signal to noise ratio of good advice on this forum is low. Before taking the advice, it is wise to research the poster of the advice and look at the posting pattern. This comment does not apply to this thread. There has been some very good advice offered that seems to have been overlooked.

OP: Stop getting ahead of yourself. You seem to constantly want to "shotgun" replace things without a good reason. You need to diagnose and assess before replacing things. There's no point replacing a perfectly good part. In fact, it may make things worse introducing an issue (i.e. YOU caused a new issue).

SLOW DOWN.

Ignore all the advice about broken wires and stuff like that. You have yet to establish the actual pattern of failure. All I have seen is that you say the software is reporting errors. Great. It's reporting them. Why don't you verify that the errors are actually valid? The software reports switch errors when switches haven't closed in a certain number of games. The switch might be perfectly fine.

Quoted from 7oxford:

Have you tried the switches in test mode.

^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^

OP: Use the diagnostics in the software to establish the switch state. You need to do this because what the software sees will guide you to where any potential problem is. Start with the diagnostics. I would do this and report your findings. Everything else is pure supposition on potential causes. You need to know what the state of the switch matrix is to start figuring out where the potential problem is. Shotgun replacing components may work but it is not systematic. Since you have multiple errors, you must be systematic.

If you don't know how to do this then READ THE MANUAL. You should also consult the Pinwiki. There is a LOT of good information there.

#33 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

<disclaimer>The following is entirely my own opinion. Some may find it offensive. It is your right to think it so. Since this is a public forum, it is also my right to post my opinion.</disclaimer>
This thread has gone nowhere for a few days now. The signal to noise ratio of good advice on this forum is low. Before taking the advice, it is wise to research the poster of the advice and look at the posting pattern. This comment does not apply to this thread. There has been some very good advice offered that seems to have been overlooked.
OP: Stop getting ahead of yourself. You seem to constantly want to "shotgun" replace things without a good reason. You need to diagnose and assess before replacing things. There's no point replacing a perfectly good part. In fact, it may make things worse introducing an issue (i.e. YOU caused a new issue).
SLOW DOWN.
Ignore all the advice about broken wires and stuff like that. You have yet to establish the actual pattern of failure. All I have seen is that you say the software is reporting errors. Great. It's reporting them. Why don't you verify that the errors are actually valid? The software reports switch errors when switches haven't closed in a certain number of games. The switch might be perfectly fine.

^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^
OP: Use the diagnostics in the software to establish the switch state. You need to do this because what the software sees will guide you to where any potential problem is. Start with the diagnostics. I would do this and report your findings. Everything else is pure supposition on potential causes. You need to know what the state of the switch matrix is to start figuring out where the potential problem is. Shotgun replacing components may work but it is not systematic. Since you have multiple errors, you must be systematic.
If you don't know how to do this then READ THE MANUAL. You should also consult the Pinwiki. There is a LOT of good information there.

Appreciate it, no offense taken, you said something similar when I was working on a machine last year. I plan on going through the proper steps when I get home today. Thanks for the advice hope to get the switches fixed soon!

#34 1 year ago

I agree with Dumbass. Although there’s a hint of a lamp matrix problem I don’t see a pattern for it and the individual switches need to be tested first. I suspect switches 54 and 55 are fine and the errors will go away after testing. Per LTG, push on the rubbers with your finger and see if the switch will activate in the test menu. If they don’t it’s more likely a leaf adjustment or dirty contacts than a matrix problem, as the wiring underneath looked ok.
You previously said Switch 58 had busted wires. Fix that problem and then see if switch 58 works.

#35 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingjowjow:

My other game I own has a little arm you use to hold up the playfield after you lift it, the White Water does not seem to have one and when I pull out the playfield it seems to slide really rough, just wood on metal, is this normal or is there a better way to lift up the playfield?

Since this wasn't mentioned in any replies I'll touch on it. First, please consult page 1-4 of your manual as it will explain the pivot mechanism used by Bally/Williams in games from this era. Hopefully all four pins are in place, you will need to check; any of the original grease that was on these dried up a long time ago; I would clean the remaining of it off and apply little synthetic grease to the slide rails, this will make it pull out with nearly no friction. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1

#36 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Since this wasn't mentioned in any replies I'll touch on it. First, please consult page 1-4 of your manual as it will explain the pivot mechanism used by Bally/Williams in games from this era. Hopefully all four pins are in place, you will need to check; any of the original grease that was on these dried up a long time ago; I would clean the remaining of it off and apply little synthetic grease to the slide rails, this will make it pull out with nearly no friction. amazon.com link »

Much appreciated! I had some of the synthetic grease and applyed it to the slide rails and the playfield now moves around like a charm! Thanks for the Tip

Still having some issues, All connections seem good after testing them and I re adjusted and cleaned the Leaf switches, not sure what's going on with the following..

- The splashing sound that keeps occuring randomly when I flip, I can't seem to figure out why.

- Whirlpool award starts after it is active randomly.

- Right Sling switches do not work.

-Still showing switch errors
Switch 54 Lower Jet Area
Switch 55 Lower Jet Area
Switch F3 L. Flipper E.O.S. Lower Jet Area

#37 1 year ago

A number of switches make different splashing sounds. Left in lane, left out lane, left ramp, right out lane, insanity falls ramp. There may be others. In switch edge test mode hit the flipper and see if any other switch lights up. Or find the switch that matches the noise from the flipper and report back with the switch number.

Whirlpool award is activated by switch 57. Let us know if activating any other switches also activates switch 57 in switch edge test mode.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#38 1 year ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

A number of switches make different splashing sounds. Left in lane, left out lane, left ramp, right out lane, insanity falls ramp. There may be others. In switch edge test mode hit the flipper and see if any other switch lights up. Or find the switch that matches the noise from the flipper and report back with the switch number.
Whirlpool award is activated by switch 57. Let us know if activating any other switches also activates switch 57 in switch edge test mode. [quoted image]

Thank you 7oxford this is so helpful! I'll report back soon.

#39 1 year ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

A number of switches make different splashing sounds. Left in lane, left out lane, left ramp, right out lane, insanity falls ramp. There may be others. In switch edge test mode hit the flipper and see if any other switch lights up. Or find the switch that matches the noise from the flipper and report back with the switch number.
Whirlpool award is activated by switch 57. Let us know if activating any other switches also activates switch 57 in switch edge test mode. [quoted image]

7oxford Thanks for all of your help on this post. I have been able to resolve every issue up to this point. The Optos on the lower ball trough where the ball travels from whirlpool to mine were super dirty. I cleaned them and it fixed the repeated water sound and stopped the random whirlpool from starting! The only issue I have or mabey not, is when I active the switch you mentioned #57 Canyon Main, it works, but then quickly switches to not used during switch test. I included a video to show what im talking about. AND some previous owner felt the need to secure the switch with zip ties... During game play the switch works as it should, but just wondering why it switches to NOT USED when triggered in switch test. Thanks again for all of your help.

Cleanedoptos (resized).pngCleanedoptos (resized).png
#40 1 year ago

The switch might be triggering more than one switch. Use switch levels test and press switch 57 and hold it in see which switches show closed. Compare to what normally shows closed in that test.
Usually this happens when a diode is shorted in the matrix and not always the one on the switch you suspect.

#41 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

The switch might be triggering more than one switch. Use switch levels test and press switch 57 and hold it in see which switches show closed. Compare to what normally shows closed in that test.
Usually this happens when a diode is shorted in the matrix and not always the one on the switch you suspect.

I appreciate it, when playing the game the switch works fine and functions as it should, not sure if the NOT USED error in switch test is effecting the game much or not.

#42 1 year ago

One switch closure should trigger one switch so it's worth investigating. If it's just that switch and not used can investigate further later.

#43 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

One switch closure should trigger one switch so it's worth investigating. If it's just that switch and not used can investigate further later.

Thanks appreciate it I'll further investigate when I get home

#44 1 year ago

Others may chime in here. 57 is activating 72 on the lamp matrix. 52 and 77 are already closed. These form a rectangle on the matrix indicating one of the switches is faulty. 52 the right sling should not be closed. 77 is an opto in the ball trough. Try test 57 again with and without balls in the trough. My best guess at this stage is switch 52 is faulty but could also be 77.

#45 1 year ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

Others may chime in here. 57 is activating 72 on the lamp matrix. 52 and 77 are already closed. These form a rectangle on the matrix indicating one of the switches is faulty. 52 the right sling should not be closed. 77 is an opto in the ball trough. Try test 57 again with and without balls in the trough. My best guess at this stage is switch 52 is faulty but could also be 77.

You stand correct, on the right sling (52) both leaf switches circled in the picture do not make a beep noise when touching them together in switch test mode. That being said when i first got the machine a few weeks ago the right sling was VERY weak and now completely dead, any idea why? I'll further diagnose the reason why the right sling leaf switches are not working when I get home thanks for the tip! I didn't know that about the rectangle formation on the matrix leading to 52 being the issue, the optos in the ball trough seem to test ok.
Screenshot_20230526-142125_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230526-142125_Chrome (resized).jpg

#46 1 year ago

7oxford slochar LTG Pin_Guy Thanks for all the helpful info, making this one [SOLVED]. All Switches are working properly now with no errors, thanks again for all of the tips.

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