(Topic ID: 336933)

White Water - Help needed, no switches, fuses blowing, it's a mess

By mystman12

11 months ago



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  • 5 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by PinRetail
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#1 11 months ago

I'm currently trying to fix a Whitewater at a local arcade. Since I have one at home I kind of took on the role of this game's caretaker. Unfortunately it seems this game has broken beyond my repair skill level.

Here's the scoop. Last time I was working on it I was just trying to adjust the No Way Out VUK. I finally got it just right and started a test game. New issue, the upper right flipper is chattering, albeit inconsistently. So I start trying to reheat the solder joints on the coil. I'm having a hard time since I didn't bring my good soldering iron and had to use what was on hand. I noticed sparking on the blue-yellow wire at the lug, so I thought maybe there was a poor connection with the coil winding, so I try globbing the whole thing up with solder. I turn the game on again and this time I notice both VUK coils firing. Crap.

The game thinks all the switches are closed. The display shows the error "GND. SHORT ROW 1 IS STUCK CLOSED", but no switches work, not even the diagnostic buttons.

I've tried looking to see if some solder might have fallen somewhere, shorting something, but I don't see anything and there's nothing directly below those lugs with the playfield lifted.

I came back to do some further diagnosis today and hoo boy, there's a lot going on.

First off, there are some ugly board repairs. Yay. I'll post pictures of all the boards and closeups of all the hacks I've found.

The error persists even with all switch matrix plugs removed from the CPU board.

When the game boots, and the VUKs fire, the translite flashers flash every time each time a coil is fired. They are all LEDs. Not sure if this was happening before or not.

Fuse 502 on the sound board was blown. I replaced it and tried turning the game on and it immediately sparked and blew up again. Speakers made an awful popping noise. The display had garbage. I quickly turned the game off. Now, with the fuse removed, turning the game on is the same as before so no further damage seems to have occurred from replacing the fuse.

All other fuses seem fine and I corrected a handful of incorrect fuses

So yeah, the game went from very playable with a handful of small issues to completely non-functional... And I'm not really sure where to start or if the boards should just all be sent away for repairs and refurbs. This all just seems like a bunch of unrelated issues (Like, why is the sound board involved?!?!)

Anyways, any help is greatly appreciated.

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#2 11 months ago

Have you tried unplugging the row 1 connector and booting it?

#3 11 months ago

I would check the boards below where you were soldering the flipper coil. Perhaps a solder glob fell on one of the switches, opto driver bd etc.

#4 11 months ago

When you have multiple issues, you must be systematic. You have to resolve them one by one. Sometimes, resolving one issue may resolve another.

My opinions (yes, they are opinions) are:

  1. List all the issues in some kind of bullet list. I suggest you write them down (or keep a text file around) and check them off.
  2. Ideally, one person drives the issues. Otherwise, you'll get a jumble of replies that will give you "repair whiplash". It's not going to be systematic.
  3. Be patient. You may not get an immediate response to your inquiries. This is the nature of a forum.

Good luck. For my final (unsolicited) opinion, start with POWER. Nothing else will work properly if you don't have good voltage / power.

#5 11 months ago

Yeah, as dumbass says, power first.

Check all your voltages (particularly 5v). Get them all working again.

Error (Ground Short Row 1) persists with all the switch plugs removed...

This is good troubleshooting.

You have verified that the problem is on the CPU board.

Row 1 is associated with U18, the 339 chip. It also has some discrete components associated with it, check the schematic and make sure everything is still connected, that coil voltage didn't blow a small trace off the board.

Column 1 is associated with U20, the ULN2083 where there is PRIOR WORK. I'd be looking at putting in a socket and a new ULN2083 and moving the bug wire to the back of the board just for tidiness.

You took very good pictures, but if the solder connections are dull grey on many of the components on the circuit board lower than the batteries (Switch stuff)... there may have been prior battery acid (alkaline) damage. If there IS prior battery acid (alkaline) damage you might want to cut your losses and buy a replacement CPU board. Battery acid is insidious, it'll cause problems a long time after you think you've gotten it cleaned up.

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