After following the advice of John Wart from another thread:

"Here's how to test continuity on the GI pins through a WPC driver board

J115 pin 1 to ground. Note if this connection is broken, wacky GI dimming can occur.
J115 pin 2 to fuse F106 (lower left) to J120/J121 pin 11, to J119 pin 1.
J115 pin 3 to fuse F110 (lower right) to J120/J121 pin 7.
J115 pin 4 to fuse F109 (upper right) to J120/J121 pin 8.
J115 pin 5 to fuse F107 (middle left) to J120/J121 pin 10.
J115 pin 6 to fuse F108 (upper left) to J120/J121 pin 9.

J115 pin 7 to Q10 top leg (triac lower rt). Q10 middle leg to J120/J121 pin2.
J115 pin 8 to Q18 bottom leg (triac upper rt). Q18 middle leg to J120/J121 pin1.
J115 pin 9 - key
J115 pin 10 to Q16 top leg (triac lower mid). Q16 middle leg to J120/J121 pin5.
J115 pin 11 to Q14 top leg (triac upper mid). Q14 middle leg to J120/J121 pin3.
J115 pin 12 to Q12 top leg (triac left). Q12 middle leg to J120/J121 pin6, to J119 pin3."

Everything checks out except

J115 pin 3 to fuse F110 (lower right) to J120/J121 pin 7.

It checks out to the fuse, but not to Pin 7.

It is the white / brown wire. It looks like it loops from j155 pin 3 to j120 pin 7. Should I start looking for breaks in the wire?

Thanks!

MK

OK, took the board out. Continuity from pin 7 is good from J120 to J121. Should I also have continuity from J121 7 to F110, and should I show continuity from J115 3 to J121 7 while the board is out?

Thanks a lot

It looks like I have a bad solder pad on the top of the board at pin 7

Thanks for the input! I was about to spend all night looking for a broken wire.

MK

Sure enough, the plated thru holes on 7 and 8 were toast. It was a royal pain to jumper those through the holes! But, White Water is nice and bright now

Once again, thank you all very much. I could not have done it without you.

MK