(Topic ID: 224891)

White Water - Flasher issue with restored game - Power always on

By Valorguy

5 years ago



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  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Valorguy
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#1 5 years ago

I just bought a fully restored White Water. I have one issue that the seller can't help me with - so wondering if someone with this game could look under their playfield, snap some pics, and help me out with what I'm missing.

All my flashers work correctly except the flasher for the mine (Next to the outlane with the kickback. When the ball is ejected from the mine to the flipper, a sound is heard, and the games I have played will FLASH the flasher under that boulder for the mine. My connection to the flasher seems to have an always on current - so when i plugged it in i noticed the boulder was lit up all the time, and the flash was getting hot and trying to burn. I unplugged the connection with the flasher immediately. I can't find any other 2 prong molex connectors that are hanging free under the playfield, and the game was restored using an old wiring harness and some things have been modified (cut/spiced/taped) - so not sure what I'm looking for.

Could someone describe the colored wires coming from where the flash connects to the molex connector - and tell me where the wires terminate? Hopefully I can get a better idea of where to look for the missing connection using this info. I know the sound has to correlate with the flashing - I'm guessing it terminated s on the power driver board. Looks like possibly the wiring in question is the blue wire with black striping (Black squares). I am posting pictures of the colored wires that are connected to the insanity falls flasher and that one (Just in front of the mine boulder in one of the falls boulders (Middle left of game).... Insanity falls looks like blue with green wire and looks to terminate at the bottom of the power driver board.

With this in mind - if my blue and black wire is terminating with the same molex connector on the power driver board, what could I do to remedy the situation, since this would mean that there is constant power coming from the board to "activate" that flasher constantly?

Thanks for the help in advance.

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#2 5 years ago

The connection looks fine. You have a path to ground somewhere. That is likely a shorted transistor on the power driver board in the backbox. Are you familiar with troubleshooting this?

#3 5 years ago

I'm not familiar with troubleshooting it. I can get someone to come look at it if necessary. Is there an easy way to troubleshoot it? Thanks for the help on it.

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from Valorguy:

what could I do to remedy the situation, since this would mean that there is constant power coming from the board to "activate" that flasher constantly?

There is always constant power to all coils and flashers in order to activate them. It's the transistor on the power driver that grounds the device to complete the circuit to ground. If it's not a chaffed wire or flasher lug touching metal, it's 99% a shorted drive transistor. You'll need to use a DMM on diode setting to test the transistor in question to see if it's bad. Then remove the power driver board and replace the faulty transistor.

#6 5 years ago

If you refer to your manual there is a flasher/solenoid table, you are having a problem with #22 Whirlpool popper flasher. The drive transistor for that is Q30 on your WPC power driver board. It is the biggest board on the bottom right when you remove your backglass and I've also highlighted Q30 too.

If you have a DMM you can put it into diode setting and look at the TIP102 image I have attached. To test if a transistor is blown/shorted you put the black lead from your DMM to the main casing tab and then put the red lead to either outside leg and your meter should give you back a reading between 0.4-0.6 if it is good. If you get anything outside of this range like 0 or > 1.0 than your TIP102 is bad.

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For now you can just remove the bulb or disconnect it and continue playing your game safely till you get it repaired. You don't want a flasher bulb to stay locked on because it can damage or melt things like plastics.

#7 5 years ago

Thanks for the reply. I had no idea which flasher it could be and what transistor - since my game didn't come with a manual or schematics. I was going to order those off Ebay, so this definitely saves me a long process ! I will look at it today.

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from Valorguy:

Thanks for the reply. I had no idea which flasher it could be and what transistor - since my game didn't come with a manual or schematics. I was going to order those off Ebay, so this definitely saves me a long process ! I will look at it today.

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2768/Williams_1993_White_Water_English_Manual.pdf

IPDB has a lot of manuals in PDF format; so always check there first.

#9 5 years ago

Thanks. Got it fixed and it was that transistor. I learned a lot in the process. I appreciate all the help.

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