(Topic ID: 109713)

White repro plastic posts...


By jasonsmith

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 109 posts
  • 34 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by beadwindow
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There are 109 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 5 years ago

I picked up enough to do a whole machine from Steve but the color just doesn't seem right to be. The white is just too grey. Is anyone using these in their restorations? Can you post a pic if so of what they look like. I'm sure it's just me being silly but thought I'd ask anyway.

Here's what I'm seeing. Obviously next to aged original posts they look strange but next to the drop targets that are quite clean and white they still look off.

2014-11-15 20.42.23.jpg

2014-11-15 20.44.15.jpg

14
#2 5 years ago

I pray nobody comes in here and starts to describe how the original posts were molded as cream colored, and the fresh new plastic is wrong.

KEVIN
Classic Playfield Reproductions
http://www.classicplayfields.com

#3 5 years ago
Quoted from jasonsmith:

Obviously next to aged original posts they look strange but next to the drop targets that are quite clean and white they still look off.

The drop target plastic looks aged to me. Why not just replace all aged plastic so everything matches?

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

The drop target plastic looks aged to me. Why not just replace all aged plastic so everything matches?

Nah, I like original if I can keep it. The targets look great I'm keeping them. Even if the new posts matched the white rubbers that would be cool but they don't.

#5 5 years ago

Environmental conditions have aged the original posts. This is normal. It is always a great idea to by a complete set of posts or ball guides.

So really, you just posted this, are you trying to convince yourself that it is now ok, to also buy new drop targets??????

#6 5 years ago

just buy aged rubber then and it will all match

#7 5 years ago

Just put the new position and play the thing. I changed out mine on my Abra-Ca-Dabra and never looked back. I don't own the machine anymore so I don't have pictures handy on my laptop. Just put them on and decide for yourself. You can always revert them back.

#8 5 years ago

Lol Darcy.

I can't remember back to the 70's so I don't know how they came out. Guessing by the thanks that Kevin has racked up I guess it's safe to assume that the new posts are exact to how they were back on release day, fair enough.

#9 5 years ago
Quoted from KevinCPR:

I pray nobody comes in here and starts to describe how the original posts were molded as cream colored, and the fresh new plastic is wrong.

KEVIN
Classic Playfield Reproductions
http://www.classicplayfields.com

Classic.... And right on the money!

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:

Just put the new position and play the thing. I changed out mine on my Abra-Ca-Dabra and never looked back. I don't own the machine anymore so I don't have pictures handy on my laptop. Just put them on and decide for yourself. You can always revert them back.

I did just that and promptly removed them, probably because of the PF white and the drop targets. Darcy... lol.

#11 5 years ago

I replace all the posts on every EM I get. I just do it at the same time I am putting the new rubbers in . They look great!

#12 5 years ago

Plastics yellow, there is a fire retardant chemical added to the plastic called bromide, it leeches out

all my old white Lego bricks from the 70's have also yellowed

#13 5 years ago

IMHO, I prefer original posts than blue/grey copies....

I put all my yellowed white posts or other plastic parts in HYDROGEN PEROXYDE.

One or two days after all my posts are WHITE !

The process, here (in French) :

http://retro-flip.xooit.fr/t3505-Comment-blanchir-ses-pieces-plastiques.htm

---

Wanted : Dead or Alive - In any condition
Gottlieb SPACE WALK
You find, you win : REWARD USD 500 !

#14 5 years ago

I personally haven't used the new post on my collection because the contrast to everything else on the aged pf's is too stark. Having said that, when I refurbished my friends Rock Star, he used all new post, which to my surprise looks natural.
Is the color off on the new post? Here's a shot of a game with original post that look new.

1026142110.jpg 1113141751a.jpg
#15 5 years ago
Quoted from kangourou:

IMHO, I prefer original posts than blue/grey copies....
I put all my yellowed white posts or other plastic parts in HYDROGEN PEROXYDE.
One or two days after all my posts are WHITE !
The process, here (in French) :
http://retro-flip.xooit.fr/t3505-Comment-blanchir-ses-pieces-plastiques.htm

Thanks for sharing this technique. I was too lazy to do a french to english translation of the referenced thread.

So do you soak in undiluted 35% hydrogen peroxide or do you dilute it? If diluted, to what degree?

Also, how long do you leave them to get the results you showed for the pop bumper body. Do playfield posts respond as well as the pop bumper body?

#16 5 years ago

Very similar to the retrobrite tecqnique

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retr0bright

Ive seen this used with mixed success but when it works its beautiful

--Jeff

#17 5 years ago

On the original versus reproduction playfield posts question I prefer to use originals. For the most part they have aged similarly to the rest of the game and look appropriate. And it's another $15 I don't have to spend on parts.

There are instances I have used repro, like where the posts have aged so much they are chalky, or where they have split (there was a run of posts around 1975 with games like Sure Shot, Royal Flush, etc. that the plastic didn't hold up as well structurally) where I have replaced all the posts.

#18 5 years ago

Yes, interested parties would like to know!

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from jasonsmith:

I can't remember back to the 70's

Me-neither.jpg

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Me-neither.jpg 10 KB

Don't make me pull out the 70's Odin pic I took while at your place. LOL!

#21 5 years ago

I thought the same thing about the replacement posts-they are a shade of grey and are almost translucent. The same is true of the replacement coin slots for the coin door.

I purchased some nos playfield posts still in the original packing on Ebay once, and they were nice and bright white. So it must be the supplier PBR uses. I'd be interested to know if someone has gotten them from Marco or someone else and they were whiter.

#22 5 years ago

Obviously I'm an original and even yellowed post fan over these grey looking ones. If they were actually white I'd be all over them but as you can see below they aren't.

2014-11-16 11.51.11.jpg

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from kangourou:

IMHO, I prefer original posts than blue/grey copies....
I put all my yellowed white posts or other plastic parts in HYDROGEN PEROXYDE.
One or two days after all my posts are WHITE !
The process, here (in French) :
http://retro-flip.xooit.fr/t3505-Comment-blanchir-ses-pieces-plastiques.htm

I gotta try that. I've had some success soaking them in bleach and water for a week but it isn't the perfect solution (no pun intended).

#24 5 years ago

I save the best older off/white posts I can and when I get enough good ones I place them on the "most original games" I have.

#25 5 years ago

Where to buy 35% Hydrogen peroxide?

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Thanks for sharing this technique. I was too lazy to do a french to english translation of the referenced thread.

So do you soak in undiluted 35% hydrogen peroxide or do you dilute it? If diluted, to what degree?

Also, how long do you leave them to get the results you showed for the pop bumper body. Do playfield posts respond as well as the pop bumper body?

From what i read in the french article, he use the product as bought (35% undiluted) and leave the parts soaking two days IN THE SUNLIGHT (seems to accelerate the whitening of the parts).

#27 5 years ago
Quoted from kosmo:

From what i read in the french article, he use the product as bought (35% undiluted) and leave the parts soaking two days IN THE SUNLIGHT (seems to accelerate the whitening of the parts).

Thanks for providing the interpretation.

The retrobright reference above utilizes UV light as part of the process. So leaving in sunlight would make sense.

#28 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Thanks for sharing this technique. I was too lazy to do a french to english translation of the referenced thread.
So do you soak in undiluted 35% hydrogen peroxide or do you dilute it? If diluted, to what degree?
Also, how long do you leave them to get the results you showed for the pop bumper body. Do playfield posts respond as well as the pop bumper body?

Hi,

For translation :

google or reverso

https://translate.google.fr/

http://www.reverso.net/text_translation.aspx?lang=FR

I use 35% hydrogen peroxide with no dilution during one or two days.

If you want a fast solution, you put all your posts under the sun or under a light with sun colour temperature (5500/6000° K).

Conduct a test for the pop bumper body, the painting is fragile !

---

Wanted : Dead or Alive - In any condition
Gottlieb SPACE WALK
You find, you win : REWARD USD 500 !

#29 5 years ago

Thanks kangourou for sharing......

#30 5 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Where to buy 35% Hydrogen peroxide?

In France, in hypermarkets or hardware stores.

---

Wanted : Dead or Alive - In any condition
Gottlieb SPACE WALK
You find, you win : REWARD USD 500 !

#31 5 years ago

Every batch of plastic has some variation to it.

Look at all the terrible blue pop bumper caps on the market right now. When lit, they are "barely blue", like 1/2 the dye is missing from the formula.

Look at all the pop bumper bodies on the market right now. They are completely opaque, allowing no illumination of the surrounding playfield. Total garbage.

Look back at 80s Bally games like Xenon where the blue beehive posts have faded to pink (of all colors). Normally they just fade to light blue, but obviously somebody got a deal on cheap plastic or cheap dye, or something......

#32 5 years ago

I saw suggestions to use this, so I gave it a try and included a pinch of oxy:

amazon.com link »

However, I had no luck with it whitening posts, even after leaving the posts submerged for several days in the sun.

I was quite disappointed, considering the results others seemed to be getting, so I'm not sure what the problem is/was.

#33 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Thanks for sharing this technique. I was too lazy to do a french to english translation of the referenced thread.
So do you soak in undiluted 35% hydrogen peroxide or do you dilute it? If diluted, to what degree?
Also, how long do you leave them to get the results you showed for the pop bumper body. Do playfield posts respond as well as the pop bumper body?

Just used google - here you go!

Hello everyone,

You all have bought a day or another pinball with a game board with different plastic components were yellowed by time.

These elements at the base are perfectly WHITE and yellow, are often the pinball drummers, plots of all kinds that support sets, targets, bumpers and body cabochons.

Some use drastic measures, like "white paint" applied to the gun or bomb in my case, I use a simple and effective way, with NO work.

Materials needed:

GLOVES and protective GLASSES
a canister HYDROGEN PEROXIDE commonly called WATER OXYGENATED
A container or glass jar
The light, the Sun to accelerate the photo-synthesis effect

Lead time:

Time to go to Casto to buy his miracle product!

operation:

Simply fill its container parts bleach and hydrogen peroxide, put everything in the sun, and wait, nothing is easier!
(when I use a jar (waterproof) I return it to the whole glass part is facing the sun)

Demonstration images:

Safety equipment:

The active product:

I deliberately took a particular body bumper yellowed by time:

The body of bumper during treatment, there is a boil, it is the action of the product:

The result after two days of sunshine:

As you can see, there's no picture!

In addition, hydrogen peroxide does not attack the red paint of the body of the bumper.

I attached a link for those who would treat larger plastic parts:

http://obligement.free.fr/articles/retr0bright.php

Today it is not beautiful, I'll drink myself a foam until the sun returns.
_________________

#34 5 years ago

Ok if anybody needs off white NOS posts, I just got a batch of 400 in. Will ship a batch of 50 for $25 in the us including shipping.
20141120_194802.jpg

Two white new posts on right, three off white, cream color on left.

PM me

Ken

#35 5 years ago

4 sets of 50 sold

#36 5 years ago

7 sets sold, leaving me 1 set.

#37 5 years ago

Wow, that was quick!!!

Thanks for sharing them with us Ken.

#38 5 years ago

Just curious if there's a possibility of 'staining' modern posts somehow. Unretrobrite

#39 5 years ago
Quoted from ThatsaKicker:

Just curious if there's a possibility of 'staining' modern posts somehow. Unretrobrite

I checked into that at one point and bought some proper dye to do it but it didn't work very well. The only way to make it stick was to really rough up the posts. Basically only the scratches on the post took the dye. The dye came after trying many other things like coffee, dirt etc. I've thought about giving them some serious heat to maybe burn the surface a bit but I think that may be a bad idea...

#40 5 years ago
Quoted from jasonsmith:

I checked into that at one point and bought some proper dye to do it but it didn't work very well. The only way to make it stick was to really rough up the posts. Basically only the scratches on the post took the dye. The dye came after trying many other things like coffee, dirt etc. I've thought about giving them some serious heat to maybe burn the surface a bit but I think that may be a bad idea...

Kudos for trying! This day and age I find there's always a product or way to make or clean something. I bet there's something out there but designed for something else entirely!

For example, my personal CD scratch remover is brasso! Figures it melts it enough. Brought some of the sister in laws dead ones back to life (unfortunately )

#41 5 years ago

I can probably get another batch of 400 NOS off white posts, let me know if there is further interest.

#42 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I can probably get another batch of 400 NOS off white posts, let me know if there is further interest.

You sold more posts in 5 hours than PBR has probably sold in the last 5 months lol.. Looks like interest to me. Wow.

#43 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I can probably get another batch of 400 NOS off white posts, let me know if there is further interest.

I would take 2 batches of 50 posts. Can you also get some of the taller ones to match?

#44 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I can probably get another batch of 400 NOS off white posts, let me know if there is further interest.

I'd be in for another 50.

#45 5 years ago

ok just ordered another 400, takes about 2 weeks to get in

#46 5 years ago
Quoted from ThatsaKicker:

Just curious if there's a possibility of 'staining' modern posts somehow. Unretrobrite

Soak them in a strong tea solution for about three weeks. I did this with repro pop bumper bodies and they turned out great. It may take a longer soak for the stain effect to be permanent, but three weeks was enough for the parts I did.

#47 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

ok just ordered another 400, takes about 2 weeks to get in

Cool. Let us know when they are ready and how you want payment.

1 week later
#48 5 years ago

Ok got the next batch in. Whoever wants 50 or 100 let me know.

Mike O were they what you expected?

Ken

#49 5 years ago

I would try them out Ken. Just 50 so others can check them out. Do you take paypal?

#50 5 years ago

If you send as gift, $25 paypal to khead@gte.net

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