(Topic ID: 298560)

Whirlwind- Top left jet bumper not firing

By Timberhusk

2 years ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Karetaker
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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2021-12-29 14.55.22 (resized).jpg
#1 2 years ago

The top left jet bumper solenoid is not firing. It's #17 solenoid. The other joining solenoids # 19, 21, 22 all are working fine. The switch for that bumper #17 is also registering fine. I swapped the coil and made no difference. I checked the connectors on the Aux power driver and they seems fine. With the other solenoids working and the bumper switch working I'm a little confused. Does anyone have some ideas?

#2 2 years ago

Check continuity of each wire from coil to board. Maybe a break along the way.

LTG : )

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check continuity of each wire from coil to board. Maybe a break along the way.
LTG : )

The red/white power wire looks like it comes from the backbox board and daisy chains to all the jet bumpers. Starts from the bad coil, so if the other coils are working... Checked continuity like you said and I have continuity from the red/white at the coil to all other coils but what seems strange is that no continuity at the J5 connector when pulled from the backbox board but there is at the J5 #1 pin. If no continuity at the J5 connector none of the coils would be working. I must be on the wrong connector?

#4 2 years ago

Still having issues. All coils are good. All wires are good. What is it on the circuit board that tell a coil to fire? It has to be something on a board.

#5 2 years ago

Have you tried doing a coil test on #17 to see if it fires in test mode?

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from Timberhusk:

Still having issues. All coils are good. All wires are good. What is it on the circuit board that tell a coil to fire? It has to be something on a board.

Solenoid 17 is driven by Q75. With the game in attract mode, use a small jumper wire with one end on ground, tap the other end on the lug of Q75. This should fire the coil if all the wiring, coil, connectors, etc are good.

If that fires, I would replace Q75, the pre-driver Q74 as well as the diode on the coil (something made the transistor fail, it is usually a bad coil or a bad diode).

#7 2 years ago

I have tried in test mode and it’s a no go.

4 months later
#8 2 years ago

After setting this aside for a few months I'm back at it. Still can't figure out why the upper right pop bumper will not fire. All coils have voltage. I replaced the suspect coil with no luck. I have looked through the manual trying to understand which connectors are involved and I think it's like this:

1. The red/white power wire that power sol#17, 19, 21, 22 (upper bumpers and ramp) is the J11 on the Aux Power Driver board to J5 on the Interconnect board to J11 on the same board to the pop bumpers. I have checked and reseated all the connections plus the fact that all those other sol work I ruled those connections out.
2. The switch wire (blue/brown) seems to go to J7 on the Aux Power Driver board. The other pop bumpers are also on that connector but I reseated all the wires to be sure.
3. In test mode you can push down the colored bumper wafer and it will register the switch # and make the bumper fire. When you push the one in question it tells you it's switch #49 but the bumper will not fire.

So if there is power to the coil and the switch is registering, what is it that tells the bumper to fire when the switch is triggered?

I'm hoping someone can look at this and see a gapping hole in my process and give some advice.

#9 2 years ago

Try the test that SCHWAGGS suggested. If you have alligator jumpers just clamp one end to a ground strap. Go into test mode then tap the other end on the transistor metal tab. If the coil fires you will know for certain that all connections and wiring is good. If the coil fires then you want to test the components that SCHWAGGS mentioned. If it doesn't fire I would check to see if you have continuity from the driver transistor to the connector. It could be as simple as a broken trace.

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from Karetaker:

Try the test that SCHWAGGS suggested. If you have alligator jumpers just clamp one end to a ground strap. Go into test mode then tap the other end on the transistor metal tab. If the coil fires you will know for certain that all connections and wiring is good. If the coil fires then you want to test the components that SCHWAGGS mentioned. If it doesn't fire I would check to see if you have continuity from the driver transistor to the connector. It could be as simple as a broken trace.

I tried it with the pin on but not in test mode a few months back, I will try it again in the morning. I did pm him a couple days ago because as I recall it didn't fire. I will definitely check continuity as well. Thanks for the response!

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from Timberhusk:

I tried it with the pin on but not in test mode a few months back, I will try it again in the morning. I did pm him a couple days ago because as I recall it didn't fire. I will definitely check continuity as well. Thanks for the response!

If it doesn't fire, try the same test (carefully) by tapping the grounded test wire to the ground lug on the pop bumper coil (the side of the coil with the single, smaller wire.

If the transistor tab doesn't fire the coil but the lug does, you have a wiring problem between the board and the pop bumper coil. Bad pin in the board connector, cut wire, something like that.

If it doesn't fire when tapping on the coil lug, you bave a bad coil, or bad power supply connection to the coil.

#12 2 years ago

The good news is touching the ground lug on the coil with a ground wire does cause the coil to fire. I have continuity from both sides of the coil to many different connectors on the board because of daisy chains i guess.

The bad news is that I must be doing something wrong when trying to ground the transistor. Because when I tap any of the upper pop bumpers transistors Q75,Q73, Q77, Q79, none of them fire and we know that only the top right is the trouble maker. I tried it after just turning on the machine, game mode, test mode for coils and switches. I moved the ground to different places on the ground strap.

I realize now I failed to mention that these are not stock boards. The driver board is Rottendog and the Aux driver board is pinballpcb.com Kohout Enterprises. Don't know if that info makes difference?

#13 2 years ago
2021-12-29 14.55.22 (resized).jpg2021-12-29 14.55.22 (resized).jpg
#14 2 years ago
Quoted from Timberhusk:

The bad news is that I must be doing something wrong when trying to ground the transistor. Because when I tap any of the upper pop bumpers transistors Q75,Q73, Q77, Q79, none of them fire and we know that only the top right is the trouble maker.

Are you trying it with the coin door closed? I think that machine has an interlock switch on it if I'm not mistaken.

#15 2 years ago

Yes, with door closed

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from Karetaker:

Are you trying it with the coin door closed? I think that machine has an interlock switch on it if I'm not mistaken.

It has a memory protect but that’s it. Interlock wasn’t until WPC and I think the first game with that was around 93 or 94.

#17 2 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

It has a memory protect but that’s it. Interlock wasn’t until WPC and I think the first game with that was around 93 or 94.

Thanks for the clarification.

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