(Topic ID: 41044)

Whirlwind restore: some help needed


By Baritonomarchett

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 38 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Baritonomarchett
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 7 years ago

Hi all,

I am a proud owner of a Wirlwind in the need for a soft resto. The machine is complete and working, but there are a couple of things i cannot solve without the help of Pinsiders

First of all: the backbox is equipped with #44 lamps, but i read somewhere that also #455 where originally used

SAM_1440.JPG

anyone know where those #455 flasher should be placed?

The second problem are plastics: some plastic is broken and i couldn't find the missing pieces to scan them myself and reproduce the plastics needed... where could i find the scans of the plastics i need? Looks like there are no more resources for pin scans, unfortunately ...

SAM_1420.JPG

SAM_1428.JPG

Thanks in advance!!

#2 7 years ago

I believe (but not totally sure) the 455's have a slightly larger hole drilled out. Most of them are in the middle of the backboard. Maybe someone else can confirm this.

#3 7 years ago

Classic Playfield Reproductions (CPR) is releasing both a playfield and plastic set for Whirlwind in the very near future. I would recommend waiting for a full plastic set rather than trying to piece together replacements for your broken/warped ones.

I also picked up a Whirlwind last weekend. What an amazing game! I think I'm having more fun with it than I am with my other Dot-Matrix games (WCS94, JD, DM and NF). Congrats on the purchase!

#4 7 years ago
Quoted from gjbwalker:

I believe (but not totally sure) the 455's have a slightly larger hole drilled out. Most of them are in the middle of the backboard. Maybe someone else can confirm this.

You are correct.
Those are your flashers.
Should be 6 of them if memory serves.

I did LED's in my Whirlwind and really like how it turned out.
Plus they put less stress on the connections.

Feel free to drop a PM if you have any other Whirlwind questions.
I did a full restoration on mine and learned a lot.

#5 7 years ago

At least your ramp looks good. You can get new ramps easy BUT the ramp (lift) itself is nearly impossible to find.
Took me a year to find one from a fellow pinsider who bought it 10 years ago and never installed it.

#6 7 years ago

I believe (but not totally sure) the 455's have a slightly larger hole drilled out. Most of them are in the middle of the backboard. Maybe someone else can confirm this.

Correct.

SAM_1440.JPG

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from Slate:

You can get new ramps easy BUT the ramp (lift) itself is nearly impossible to find.

If anyone has a line on this, let me know.

#8 7 years ago
Quoted from Slate:

You can get new ramps easy BUT the ramp (lift) itself is nearly impossible to find.

I just did a rebuild of Whirlwind. There is some annoyance to this. Fortunately the lift ramp is real easy to find now (maybe it wasn't in the past?). http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-13233

You will also need a pin crank for it. The one used was a williams part and is used all over on lift ramps, even diner has it. Unfortunately it's impossible to find. This one will do with some modifications... http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4429

The nut portion of that pincrank is more than twice as thick as it needs to be. It'll work OK for holding the ramp but it will rub against the rubbers on the outer side and keep the ramp from working properly. You should find a lock washer and nut for it (as thin as you possibly can!). Screw them on and mark the exposed threads with a sharpie. Take it off and dremel off the sharpied bit to make it as short as possible when assembled. Put it back together with a drop of loctite. Works like a champ. Mine has been working for about a year including a couple league nights with heavy play!

EDIT: Oops didn't look closely enough in your picture. Congratuations! You are the proud owner of the correct pin crank (I am secretly jealous of your luck!). Save that piece and you are good to go with the new ramp.

#9 7 years ago

Also, if your Whirlwind doesn't have the cellar/ramp protectors from Cliffy then those are a MUST BUY!

http://www.passionforpinball.com/whirly_pros.htm

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from Bischt:

Fortunately the lift ramp is real easy to find now

I saw that as well. $49 for the part ..... and $50 to ship ... us Canucks get hooped from Marco.

#11 7 years ago
Quoted from smokedog:

I saw that as well. $49 for the part ..... and $50 to ship ... us Canucks get hooped from Marco.

Ouch! Yeah I don't see it other places unfortunately. It's one of those parts they build so it's higher price for their time investment/because we can. The shipping is horrible though. I wish pinball companies would become Amazon partners already and let the pros handle the logistics.

#12 7 years ago

Thank you guys for the help, it's apleasure to be part of this community

Thanks Mike for the lamps layout!!!

For what concerns scans, I will eventually buy those plastics, but still the option of repro them myself is attracting ... eventually, if someone still has those from BOS somewhere in the PC or want to scan them please pm me!!

In the meantime, today i started to clean the playfield and check some playfiled lamp... here are some pics for you

Before...

SAM_1441slim.jpg SAM_1445slim.jpg

After...

SAM_1451slim.jpg SAM_1452slim.jpg SAM_1458slim.jpg

#13 7 years ago

The spinner decals from Classic arcades on Ebay work excellent .Looks like you need them

#14 7 years ago

Here's and awesome site a guy created to shop your whirlwind.
I used it when I broke down mine.

http://webspace.webring.com/people/sl/loupz/whirlwind/whirlwind-shop.htm

Really helped me out.
And for each step I put all the parts in individual brown lunch bags and labeled them.
Made it a snap to put the game back together (plus the fact that I took 100s of pics).

#15 7 years ago
Quoted from Ranhorton:

Here's and awesome site a guy created to shop your Whirlwind.
I used it when I broke down mine.
http://webspace.webring.com/people/sl/loupz/whirlwind/whirlwind-shop.htm
[...]

Unfortunately pics are no more available on that link.

#16 7 years ago

Yeah. No pics but a great step by step guide to stripping the playfield.
If you need pics of any of the steps I took tons during my tear down I can send/post.

#17 7 years ago

Congrats on your purchase, WW is a fun game.

I am starting to do scans of my plastics, but I think that I am in the same boat as you with the broken ones. I was going to try and fix them in Photoshop, but haven't gotten there yet as I am hoping the CPR ones will be available within the next several months.

I also have a good scan of the tollway stickers if you need them too.

#18 7 years ago
Quoted from Dante:

Congrats on your purchase, WW is a fun game.
I am starting to do scans of my plastics, but I think that I am in the same boat as you with the broken ones. I was going to try and fix them in Photoshop, but haven't gotten there yet as I am hoping the CPR ones will be available within the next several months.
I also have a good scan of the tollway stickers if you need them too.

Thanks!

I am in the need for the scans of the two plastics on the left and right of the right ramp (the ramp that rises) and the one over the "feel-the-power" drop targets. If eventually you have one or more of those scanned, please send them to me

Quoted from jhanley:

The spinner decals from Classic arcades on Ebay work excellent .Looks like you need them

jhanley thanks for the suggestion: i have just bought those on epay from classic arcades

1 week later
#19 7 years ago

In the weekend i had the time to install the backbox, reconnect all the lose connectors and ... fire it up!

In addition i gave it some additional cleaning, fixed some minor issues (even there are a couple still there...) and other minor stuff.

Some pic for you pinsiders

SAM_1471.JPG
SAM_1474.JPG
SAM_1475.JPG
SAM_1476.JPG

I also started to approach the "missing topper" question ... i have the topper completely missing and i cannot find any pic of the fan-motor assembly without the plastic cover ... anyone have one by hand to show me? I am trying to evaluate the possibility to follow an "aftermarket way" for the motor-fan assembly. In addition i will need to build up the frame for the motor, so any pic of that would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

#20 7 years ago

Hey Baritonomarchett, I will be taking my topper off this weekend to try and whiten the plastic and to install some flashers up there. I'll take some pix and post them tomorrow.

#21 7 years ago

Baritonomarchett, that ball looks pretty beat judging by the dullness in the picture. Make sure you replace it with a new one if you haven't already.
WW is on my wish list. One day I hope to own it too. Welcome to Pinside also!
Brian

#22 7 years ago

i can get a pic of the topper when I get home today

#23 7 years ago

Thanks guys for the support ^_^

A friend of mine told me that he found an old 24V AC motor ... let see if it will be good for the pourpouse.

bpull, 3 new balls are on their way to my house, thanks

#24 7 years ago

If you pull that Mylar what is underneath will blow your mind. I pulled mine and it is a brand new playfield underneath and made the game play super fast. It is unbelievable how much the Mylar deadens the balls action.

#25 7 years ago

Thanks for the advice rs812. Being in good conditions (only dirt on the borders and some bubble here and there) i prefer to leave the mylar in place (there's a good chance that by peeling it also the insert will come loose and i prefer to leave that part for future resto )

#26 7 years ago

Any luck finding your topper parts?

#27 7 years ago

No, not yet unfortunately. I've opened a new topic in the market section for that

#28 7 years ago

Sorry for the delay, but here are the pics. I'll post some more with the measurements.

photo_1.JPG photo_2.JPG photo_3.JPG photo_4.JPG

#29 7 years ago

Here are the ones with measurements. Let me know if you have any questions.

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#30 7 years ago

And here are the replacement parts if you decide you want turnkey. Although, it looks like you will have to fabricate the arm, which should be pretty easy to do with a vice and a piece aluminum

Fan Motor: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/14-7956
Fan: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8375

#31 7 years ago

Good stuff Dante! And the Marco stuff note: fan blade is larger than the shaft that they sell. You need to make up the difference on the shaft thickness. I used a vinyl vacuum cap to make up the thickness.

Quoted from Dante:

And here are the replacement parts if you decide you want turnkey. Although, it looks like you will have to fabricate the arm, which should be pretty easy to do with a vice and a piece aluminum
Fan Motor: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/14-7956Fan: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8375

#32 7 years ago

And here's a shot of the Marco fan blade with an original motor (Marco's should be the same though) and the vinyl cap:

WhirlW_007.jpg

#33 7 years ago

Thank you very much Dante! Those measures are those i was diggin for!

Wow 80 dollars for an ac motor i definitely need to find out another solution for that! I read somewhere that with a relay you can drive a 230V (or 120V in USA) motor with specs close to the orginal... i suppose this will be my choice.

Here is the link, just for completeness

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=159944&page=2

2 weeks later
#34 7 years ago

Well well,

had some time to think on how to solve the "topper problem".

In the end i decided to buy a new topper plastic (i could not repro it myself... i dont like to spend money for overpriced plastics, so i could eventually live without it ... but the item was in the shopping chart ... and the pointer on the "buy it now" button ). For what concerns the fan, after various measures on the PCB and looking at the piceces i had at home i could build up a sort of "external macro triac board". Attached is the schematic (i will post a pic eventually)... well ... it works! The 38V DC you can see are those going to the triac board and triggering the Fan (they should be 24V DC but i measured 38 directly on the pins ... maybe because there was no load). the potentiometer is here used to reduce the juiced voltage to values able to trigger the relay i am using. The function principle is the same of that of the triac board itself, nothing of new, with the exception of the Fan (240V AC) juiced by the 240VAC of the line. Ground is not reported on the scheme, but obviously every metal part is grounded.

It's not installed yet, but i tested it juicing the driver signal from an external PSU and everithing looks ok. Hope to install it and test it in the next few days...

schema_fan_whirlwind.JPG

#35 7 years ago

The fan motor is the similar to the evaporator fan motor on a refrigerator you can usually find these these cheaper

#36 7 years ago

Thanks. With this circuit it's possible to drive every 240VAC motor so, if i find a better alternative to the one i will use, i can easily install it

By now, a "square chassis" black fan i have by hand will be mounted (i will post pics as soon as it will be on location)

10 months later
#37 6 years ago

Hello to all my questions and simple. I have a Williams Whirlwind pinball And the one with the fan on top of the pinball machine. I miss all that piece them ;-( I only have the unit. I have read in various forums that the unit runs the fan 24V but with a change you can also run at 240V? and and you know what, I ask you to help me?

Screenshot_2014-01-26-22-41-44.png 20140126_212153.jpg
#38 6 years ago

As i told you in PM (please don't send PM's or the info will be of no use for the community but only for you) the PCB is schemed at page 82: you need to connect the inputs of your SSR to pin 1 and 3 of the connector "P1" . Keep an eye on the GND and +24V dc driver voltage to the input pins and don't reverse them.

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