(Topic ID: 312241)

Whirlwind No Feature/Controlled Lamps (System 11) Help!

By seshpilot

2 years ago


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  • 13 posts
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  • Latest reply 2 years ago by seshpilot
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sys11_cabinet_wiring.jpg
sys11_18V.jpg
sys11b_cpu.jpg
#1 2 years ago

No feature lamps in game or test mode. Here's what I know:
-the 8a fuse next to the big capacitor checks out fine
-the bridge rectifier seems to check out fine (.6 when measuring + to AC leads; same for - to AC leads; perfect continuity between + and - (is this right? I think it is, but just checking))
-no burned connectors
-when removing 1J6 and 1J7, I checked with a 555 lamp socket and 1n4007 diode and got nothing for any of the columns or rows
-when grounding Q80 through Q87, no lamps light

What's my next move? Do I replace the PIA at u52, the 7408 at u52 and u53, and/or the 7406 at u55 and u56? Is there a place I can measure if I'm actually getting proper voltage to the MPU board for the feature lamps? Many thanks

#2 2 years ago

Paging Dr. ChrisHibler

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

What's my next move? Do I replace the PIA at u52, the 7408 at u52 and u53, and/or the 7406 at u55 and u56? Is there a place I can measure if I'm actually getting proper voltage to the MPU board for the feature lamps? Many thanks

Test for lamp voltage on the CPU board at either of the ends of the inductor. I suspect you don't have power. It is extremely unlikely that all columns or rows fail at once. I would not touch any of those ICs before ensuring that the power to your board is good.

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Test for lamp voltage on the CPU board at either of the ends of the inductor. I suspect you don't have power. It is extremely unlikely that all columns or rows fail at once. I would not touch any of those ICs before ensuring that the power to your board is good.

Thanks mate. The inductor is the copper wire on the MPU board right? Regardless, I'm guessing I'm looking for 18v DC? DumbAss

#5 2 years ago
sys11b_cpu.jpgsys11b_cpu.jpg
#6 2 years ago

@dumbass, if I'm doing this correctly (black on ground and red on the SIP that you've placed an arrow on), I'm only getting .10v DC. What's my next move?

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

if I'm doing this correctly (black on ground and red on the SIP that you've placed an arrow on), I'm only getting .10v DC. What's my next move?

Sorry. I incorrectly assumed it was obvious that I was highlighting the +18V track on the board. That big track masked by the solder mask is the +18V track. Any point connected to it is +18V. I made this assumption because what you wrote about what you did implied to me that you knew about how to follow tracks around.

Here's another attempt with a much more pointed annotation. There are other points but those are easily accessible when the board is mounted in the machine.

sys11_18V.jpgsys11_18V.jpg
#8 2 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Sorry. I incorrectly assumed it was obvious that I was highlighting the +18V track on the board. That big track masked by the solder mask is the +18V track. Any point connected to it is +18V. I made this assumption because what you wrote about what you did implied to me that you knew about how to follow tracks around.
Here's another attempt with a much more pointed annotation. There are other points but those are easily accessible when the board is mounted in the machine.
[quoted image]

I actually caught that. And that reading came to .10v DC

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

I actually caught that. And that reading came to .10v DC

Oh. Sorry. You stated you measured at the SIP where the text is whereas I would've measured at the inductor or the pins at 1J4. If you don't have +18V at the board then check the actual pins and the connector - just to be sure. Beyond that you need to go upstream.

sys11_cabinet_wiring.jpgsys11_cabinet_wiring.jpg
#10 2 years ago

The 8A fuse...remove and buzz...is a prime suspect.
Next is the bridge adjacent to i.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

The 8A fuse...remove and buzz...is a prime suspect.
Next is the bridge adjacent to i.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

I checked the fuse and BR. Both seemed fine.

#12 2 years ago

If you've pulled the fuse, it tests fine and you have no +18V at the 1J4 connector (not header) then you likely have a problem in the wiring as outlined in the wiring diagram. Test at points further up the chain for the presence of +18V - i.e. at the positive lead of the bridge rectifier. If you get nothing from that then check the transformer secondary output wires (AC input to the bridge rectifier). You need to find where the problem is. It's going to either be active component (bridge rectifier) or the wiring. You say you've done a static test on the bridge rectifier so do an active test by measuring the voltage at the positive terminal. If there's voltage then you have a break in the wiring. Test continuity of the wiring.

There's not a lot in the wiring diagram. You just need to do the work because nobody else can do the work remotely.

If you're still unsure then post an image of the layout so someone can annotate it and guide you further.

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

If you've pulled the fuse, it tests fine and you have no +18V at the 1J4 connector (not header) then you likely have a problem in the wiring as outlined in the wiring diagram. Test at points further up the chain for the presence of +18V - i.e. at the positive lead of the bridge rectifier. If you get nothing from that then check the transformer secondary output wires (AC input to the bridge rectifier). You need to find where the problem is. It's going to either be active component (bridge rectifier) or the wiring. You say you've done a static test on the bridge rectifier so do an active test by measuring the voltage at the positive terminal. If there's voltage then you have a break in the wiring. Test continuity of the wiring.
There's not a lot in the wiring diagram. You just need to do the work because nobody else can do the work remotely.
If you're still unsure then post an image of the layout so someone can annotate it and guide you further.

FIXED. you’ve been a great help! It was a wire.

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