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(Topic ID: 207384)

Whirlwind - My first resto


By orangegsx

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 77 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by orangegsx
  • Topic is favorited by 18 Pinsiders

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There are 77 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 2 years ago

I know there is a ton of whirlwinds on here, Just wanted to add mine and see if anyone had some tips for me along the way, I've already started but anyways, here it is.

I played whirlwind as a kid at the local pizza joint, never thought I would end up with one (or afford one) but got lucky and found one in town and did some trading. This is my holy grail pin for sure. The game was not operational when I got it. Replaced the resistors for the displays and that let me figure out what was going on and played a few games on it. I wanted to clean it up good before I did any more damage to it, it was very grimey. I plan on getting it cleaned up as good as I can and getting it playing good. I don't mind the patina on the cabinet (for now at least).

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having an ultrasonic to use is awesome, also don't know how I lived without a tumbler before!
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I've done some touch ups and a few insert decals, I have a play field protector to put on over it all, Just waiting on my cliffy's to show up before I do that. Had to order a couple other bits too so I'm sort of on hold right now.

#2 2 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

I know there is a ton of whirlwinds on here, Just wanted to add mine and see if anyone had some tips for me along the way, I've already started but anyways, here it is.
I played whirlwind as a kid at the local pizza joint, never thought I would end up with one (or afford one) but got lucky and found one in town and did some trading. The game was not operational when I got it. Replaced the resistors for the displays and that let me figure out what was going on and played a few games on it. I wanted to clean it up good before I did any more damage to it, it was very grimey. I plan on getting it cleaned up as good as I can and getting it playing good. I don't mind the patina on the cabinet (for now at least)

having an ultrasonic to use is awesome, also don't know how I lived without a tumbler before!

I've done some touch ups and a few insert decals, I have a play field protector to put on over it all, Just waiting on my cliffy's to show up before I do that. Had to order a couple other bits too so I'm sort of on hold right now.

That's cleaning up nicely. Keep us posted.

#3 2 years ago

Excellent work. Will be following for when I start mine.

#4 2 years ago

Looking good. I just recently stared mine, and replaced a bunch of the stock stuff. Let me know if there is anything you need.

#5 2 years ago

Thanks all. I'll let you know if I need anything nerdy, I actually followed you on instagram to follow your swap.

Sanding on some ball guides tonight, they are all pretty nasty and I'm running out of sandpaper. My cpr plastics should be here tomorrow and hopefully my cliffys!

Had a friend tig up the cellar too, should hold now.

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#6 2 years ago

One question I did have. Is there anyway to stop the upper flipper from hitting the ball guide? Or do I just have to keep extra rubbers around?

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#7 2 years ago

Go get yourself. Flapping wheel to help with regraining the ball guides, it goes quick

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Go get yourself. Flapping wheel to help with regraining the ball guides, it goes quick

What grit? I think I have some at work. I've been starting at 600 and ending with 1000 by hand.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

What grit? I think I have some at work. I've been starting at 600 and ending with 1000 by hand.

I have one, can't remember the grit, but probably 600.

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

One question I did have. Is there anyway to stop the upper flipper from hitting the ball guide? Or do I just have to keep extra rubbers around?

Wowzer, that appears to be an adjustment issue, either with the way the flipper was set or where the ball guide is sitting. It's something to be aware of when reinstalling, check your spacing and adjust flipper accordingly.

Also kudos for taking the time to regrain. I've been on the fence about it, but it may be a nice break from the PF stuff. The flaps are awesome. I've heard these work great too, but only go up to 400g: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-400-grit-abrasive-ball-61183.html

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Wowzer, that appears to be an adjustment issue, either with the way the flipper was set or where the ball guide is sitting. It's something to be aware of when reinstalling, check your spacing and adjust flipper accordingly.
Also kudos for taking the time to regrain. I've been on the fence about it, but it may be a nice break from the PF stuff. The flaps are awesome. I've heard these work great too, but only go up to 400g: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-400-grit-abrasive-ball-61183.html

Hmm. Well I think I'll order some flipper stops just to make sure.. it beat up the ball guide pretty good

#12 2 years ago

Plastics showed up. Impressive quality. Quite the upgrade

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#13 2 years ago

Still waiting on parts, have a few other projects to finish up before I continue too. I did get a new light cover for my box at work though

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#14 2 years ago

Well I think I figured out my display issue. Missing chip at u19, easy and cheap enough. Also found a bad relay underneath the playfield for the upper GI, having some trouble finding one though.

Still waiting on bumper bodies then I can carry on. Got the playfied protector on, looks great

Threw in a clear hole protector too, with a blue LED below it.

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#15 2 years ago

You got any 455s in that led assortment for the backbox?

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

You got any 455s in that led assortment for the backbox?

I was trying to figure out why I was six bulbs short up there. Now I get it. Forgot to order those. Thanks!

#17 2 years ago

replaced fuse and reflowed relay board.. woohoo!

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#18 2 years ago

Well last night after getting the GI working I went after the spinning discs problem. Assumed it was the resistor on the motor board so I resoldered it, then resoldered the sound overlay board... then I found the single butt connector unplugged that goes to the motor . So my only issue left is the missing chip for the display. (Hopefully)

Heres a shot of the lit up eject hole. This will be the only colored LED out of an insert.

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#19 2 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Well I think I figured out my display issue. Missing chip at u19, easy and cheap enough. Also found a bad relay underneath the playfield for the upper GI, having some trouble finding one though.
Still waiting on bumper bodies then I can carry on. Got the playfied protector on, looks great
Threw in a clear hole protector too, with a blue LED below it.

Looking great!

Were you able to find U19 UDN7180? Don't buy these from China, they are most certainly fakes.

#20 2 years ago

Great progress, everything is looking awesome so far!

#21 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Looking great!
Were you able to find U19 UDN7180? Don't buy these from China, that are most certainly fakes.

Thank you!
I was going to order one from action pinball today. I'm assuming they are fake though? For 8$

Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Great progress, everything is looking awesome so far!

Thanks!

#22 2 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Thank you!
I was going to order one from action pinball today. I'm assuming they are fake though? For 8$

Thanks!

Maybe someone found a bunch of tubes of them in their backstock. BUT, $8 is a steal, even when (if) you can find them in stock somewhere trustworthy they can be $15-20 each so be cautious. Hopefully they didn't source them from China. If you do buy spares, test all of them in your board to make sure they work before storing them. Maybe perform the diode test as described on PinWiki before installing them. http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Display_Fuse_F1_Blows

#23 2 years ago

So far the bumpers are the first thing that I am not fully enjoying working on. Only five more to go though!

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#24 2 years ago

Had to give up on the bumpers for the night and move on, half done.

Slapped some decals on the drops

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#25 2 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

So far the bumpers are the first thing that I am not fully enjoying working on. Only five more to go though!

Bumpers are pretty much the worst of it. There is nothing more miserable. You're doing great and they look sick!

#26 2 years ago

Getting there. Ramp day today!

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#27 2 years ago

Looking great!

Did you do any touch-ups to the PF before installing that makrolon protector?

#28 2 years ago
Quoted from mgpasman:

Looking great!
Did you do any touch-ups to the PF before installing that makrolon protector?

Thanks! I did a bit around the bumpers, nothing major though. I did it with acrylic and did not clear it. There is a few pics of what I did on the first post.

#29 2 years ago

Ah, now I see it. Great result though!

#30 2 years ago

Added a small hunk of metal to help stop the ramp from cracking.

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#31 2 years ago

I ordered bayonet bulbs for the top lighting piece instead of wedge. Oh well incandecants will work for now. I have some adjusting to do for sure. kind of wish the tolerance on the playfield protector was a little bit tighter around the spinning discs

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#32 2 years ago

Ugh... replaced the chip... the lower half now works but its still jumbled

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#33 2 years ago

Check your ribbon cables, reseat and check continuity. 99.9% likely it's a cable issue.

#34 2 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Check your ribbon cables, reseat and check continuity. 99.9% likely it's a cable issue.

Hmm.. I flipped both ends 180* you would think the problem would change but it didn't at all

#35 2 years ago

Well looks like a pin was folded under on that socket while it was replaced or something.. crap

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#36 2 years ago

Looks damn close at that legs on the chip and make sure they're all firmly seated. Those little bastards are sneaky

EDIT: Ha posted as you were. As long as the leg is still attached it's fine. Just bend it back CAREFULLY.

#37 2 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Well looks like a pin was folded under on that socket while it was replaced or something.. crap

Well, that looks to be pin 9 which is ground. No telling what would happen with that left floating. Great eye to catch that missing pin.

#38 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Well, that looks to be pin 9 which is ground. No telling what would happen with that left floating. Great eye to catch that missing pin.

Well I removed the chip socket and resoldered it. Reflowed most everything else again to make sure.. making some progress here but now the top characters are stuck on.. doesnt change when flipping the cable

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#39 2 years ago

Do you have another display or ribbon cable on hand so you can rule the display or cables out?

#40 2 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Do you have another display or ribbon cable on hand so you can rule the display or cables out?

No unfortunately. I'll check the cable for continuity tonight.

Here is the display test. Im not sure on what exact segments they are I'll have to look them up. But the tops are stuck on and some of the bottom is missing.

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#41 2 years ago

The cable has continuity through all terminals. Looking at the schematic now I guess I'll check and reflow everything upstream tonight

#42 2 years ago

Hmmm

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#43 2 years ago

Toasty

#44 2 years ago

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#45 2 years ago

I'm guessing a component on the mpu is toast, one of the src's... I've gotta take a break from this before I ruin something I can't afford to replace right now. Reflowed a bunch of stuff on the cpu and nothing has changed. I'll do some more research and come back to it I guess

#46 2 years ago

Wow, that looks like my old HS CPU. It should be easy enough to test the continuity of those traces to make sure they are all in tact.

I've got a great board repair guy out here. He's setup with all of the Williams test rigs. If you want his name I would be happy to pass it along.

#47 2 years ago

You have a couple problems in those pictures, lets start with the top segments of display 2 locked on.

Now that you have replaced the missing 7180, lets step slightly back. Use a logic probe to test the inputs and outputs of the input buffers for those segments. Looks like a, b and f segments which come through U9 and U10. These should be pulsing and NOT stuck high or low. If they are stuck hi or lo on the input, you have a ribbon cable or CPU board issue. If the input is pulsing but the output is not, you have a bad buffer chip.

Similar test for the display 2 segments that never turn on c and e. Those input buffers are on U11 and U12

For the dead digit and the always on digit in display 1 and 2, we know the strobe signals are making it through the input gates since digit 5 has a problem on display 1 and digit 4 has a problem on display 2 (if the signal was not making it through, both displays would have a problem on the same digit). The problem is probably in the 6118 at U13 and U17. Are either of these socketed?

#48 2 years ago

Send board out for looking over. Coin op cauldron.

You've spent a lot of time on this thing. Get the board bulletproofed. Also, change out those weird batteries.

#49 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

You have a couple problems in those pictures, lets start with the top segments of display 2 locked on.
Now that you have replaced the missing 7180, lets step slightly back. Use a logic probe to test the inputs and outputs of the input buffers for those segments. Looks like a, b and f segments which come through U9 and U10. These should be pulsing and NOT stuck high or low. If they are stuck hi or lo on the input, you have a ribbon cable or CPU board issue. If the input is pulsing but the output is not, you have a bad buffer chip.
Similar test for the display 2 segments that never turn on c and e. Those input buffers are on U11 and U12
For the dead digit and the always on digit in display 1 and 2, we know the strobe signals are making it through the input gates since digit 5 has a problem on display 1 and digit 4 has a problem on display 2 (if the signal was not making it through, both displays would have a problem on the same digit). The problem is probably in the 6118 at U13 and U17. Are either of these socketed?

Ive been meaning to get a logic probe for work, I'll get one and dig into this. As far as the dead digit it was going through the test where is goes through all the digits one by one.. there is no problems with the top display. Thanks for the help. I will go through it when I get a logic probe

#50 2 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

As far as the dead digit it was going through the test where is goes through all the digits one by one.. there is no problems with the top display. Thanks for the help. I will go through it when I get a logic probe

Cool, then there is only a potential problem with U17. Is that by chance socketed? If so, check out the solder job on that socket and if another 6118 is socketed, it would be a simple test to swap them and see if the problem follows the chip.

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