(Topic ID: 207135)

Whirlwind Is Coming...


By nerdygrrl

9 months ago



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#1 9 months ago

Some folks have asked me to document my progress. I have been working on the game for the past three weeks so initial thread will be a flood, that I will revise and edit to beef out.

Whirlwind is one of the first pins that I have ever played that I got hooked on (Monster Bash being the other). I had been on the lookout for the last five years or so, but they were always a bit out of my price range. Last month a got a text from a friend asking me if I knew of anyone looking for a Whirlwind. He had found one while looking at a lot of vintage cars. The price and was right so I jumped at the chance. Plus I got to spend some quality time with a good friend surrounded by two amazing vintage car collections.

Upon initial inspection PF was filthy, spinner disc decals were shot, broken plastics and god knows what else was lurking in the darkness. Add in the almost always needed flipper rebuilds and this was going to be a top to bottom strip and clean.

I have torn down quite a few machines in my day, some have even gotten put back together. Prior to any restoration I review a bunch of old threads and see if there are any new ones with new tips/tricks. Below is a list that I consulted for this restoration, I will add to it as the project continues.

Useful Links



The Gold Standard: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration

Mof’s PF Guide: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-swap-guide

My Guide On Dimpling PF: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nerdygrrls-guide-on-what-to-do-if-your-new-pf-isnt-dimpled

Solid WW PF Swap Thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ww-restore-something-old-something-new

Detailed WW Restoration W/ Rebuild Documentation: http://www.enteryourinitials.com/2017/03/07/whirlwind-repair-service-log-1/

*Vid’s Guide To Harness Cleaning: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-playfield-harnesses-vids-guide

* Use Caution, see page () for my results

Thread Glossary

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#2 9 months ago

When I got home I did a more thorough assessment of the game and started to do some interweb searches for replacement bits. I had lucked out with the timing of my purchase as CPR had many of the needed parts available so I wouldn’t have to scour the dark web for replacement slingshot plastics. Since this was going to need a full, labor intensive strip, including various rebuilds and since I did not have a to trade a kidney for my slings I decided to pull the trigger and get the complete CPR combo (PF, plastics, and BG). My first time doing so and a big splurge for me. 



Also In The Works:

Drop Target Rebuilds
Pop Bumper Rebuilds
Flipper Rebuilds
New Standup Targets
New Springs All Around

*New Ramps

*Not Planned

#3 9 months ago

One of the best parts of doing these swaps is learning new things about the machine that you picked up. I hadn’t known that in the original run, the boy with the vid cam was wearing a cubs hat. Being a huge Cubs fan, I took a look at my original translate and sure enough I had a game from one of the original runs. You could see that the Williams logo on my translate was just a sticker. I gently pulled it off and yay!



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#4 9 months ago

With my CPR kit ordered, it was time to start breaking down the PF. Remember boys and girls take lots of pics and when you think that you have taken enough take more. No real method to the madness, I just start at bottom and work my way up.



I have worked on my fair share of System 11 pins and I must say this PF breakdown was a PIA. So much locktite and hard to get at posts, it was by far the most time consuming and difficult breakdown I have done. It validated the purchase of the CPR PF for me, I would have hated to have spent this much time breaking it down just to put everything back on an old and dirty PF. 



Oh, more broken bits that had not been factored into the project budget (shakes fist at sky).

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#5 9 months ago

Great game and congratulations.

#6 9 months ago

Now that everything has been removed, let’s get started cleaning. This will be the first restoration that I have done where I have access to an ultrasonic cleaner. I get chills just thinking about it. Exciting times here at case da nerdygrrl

No matter how many times you have done a shop job, PF swap, or restoration you can all, but guarantee there will be some sort of hiccup along the way. 

I have always used simple green to clean my posts and things. The only issues I have ever had with it were on the pan head screws so I leave them out and soak everything else overnight to get off the grime before tumbling.

As I mentioned I had access to an ultrasonic cleaner so I used that instead of doing the overnight soak. After just twenty minutes all my bits started to turn grey from some sort of reaction to the simple green. This will eventually work its way out in the tumbler, but it takes 4-5x longer and never really gets back to normal. The bottom pic is after three days in the tumbler. I ended up doing another 2 and still not happy with the finish. *sigh*

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#7 9 months ago

So one of the new tricks I noticed while doing my research was Vid’s guide to harness cleaning: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-playfield-harnesses-vids-guide



I have thrown harnesses in the dishwasher before, but in his guide he mentions tossing entire mechanisms in there. What a great time saver…or is it.



I got mixed results and in the end, I am not sure I would put anything other than the harnesses and ball guides in the dishwasher. Perhaps it’s because my washer is newer, maybe my water is hotter or has a different mineral content, but I lost a lot of chrome running my bits through, some other metals were permanently discolored and others pitted. You can see the damage on the pop bumper brackets in the washer rack as well as the disc housing. Below are a couple of pics of what the kicker assmeblies looked like out of wash and brackets after a good tumbling and buffing.

Use with caution. Results may vary.

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#8 9 months ago

Keep it coming. Gonna enjoy this thread!

#9 9 months ago

My CPR swag arrived, and there is just no comparison. My old PF was ok, but again, given everything the game needed to be functional (rebuilds, strip, new targets, decals, etc) and the time spent to do the work, it only made sense to get a new PF.

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#10 9 months ago

Thanks for documenting this, eagerly following!

#11 9 months ago

Today is my bday and I had taken a couple of days off to work on this. On Monday I started to work on the PF side of things (drilling, clearing, countersinking, etc). I had hoped to have it prepared and ready for initial installing this week. Like I said above, no matter how many games you have worked on, there will be hiccups.

This is my first CPR PF swap and it did not start out smoothly: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-with-cpr-pf-filled-in-holes-chipping-like-crazy

After a lot of freaking out and some input from friends I ditched the brad points (for now) and went with a little more heat, the dremel and finally the drill bits. I think this was 99.9% user error. I hadn't used heat when testing the diameter and probably didn't use enough when drilling the first hole and that resulted in the cracked clear.

As folks have mentioned in that thread, if you are going to do a swap, get Kruzman's kit.

Update: While at Harbor Freight I found the lovely kit of diamond bits for $8. They're sure to help out!

Major success time to move to the next stage. Huzzah…..wait what the …..!@#* word !@#* word !@#* word You have to be !@#* kidding me

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#12 9 months ago

Ever watch a movie and miss the big glaring thing that was in front of you the entire time? That’s where we are now. My celebration was cut short as I moved onto the next step, drilling out the dimples, only to discover that the only areas that had been pre-drilled were for the through and throughs. None of the topside areas for anything that have a wood screw base were dimpled. None were marked. 



I know in runs past they have been dimpled and marked. Their website main pic shows a dimpled PF, but the gallery pics do not. I emailed CPR to see if this lack of dimpling was intentional or if I got a dud. I am still waiting to hear back, but some other folks from the Whirlwind Club told me their PF’s are the same. 



Sadly, this is not something I planned for. This is a big hurdle for me. It adds a lot of time to the project and quite honestly not something that I am sure I can pull off. There are over 50 locations that will have to be pinpointed and then drilled by hand. 

I had hoped to sell my old PF to recoup some of the costs from this project, but it looks like I may have to use it as a guide to mark the new PF. 


First pic is of the first CPR run and the thumbnail they use on their site. The second is my PF.

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#13 9 months ago

So this is where it stands now, the PF is on hold until I hear back from CPR. I will start the flipper and other rebuilds while I wait.

Current Mood:

#14 9 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Ever watch a movie and miss the big glaring thing that was in front of you the entire time? That’s where we are now. My celebration was cut short as I moved onto the next step, drilling out the dimples, only to discover that the only areas that had been pre-drilled were for the through and throughs. None of the topside areas for anything that have a wood screw base were dimpled. None were marked. 


I know in runs past they have been dimpled and marked. Their website main pic shows a dimpled PF, but the gallery pics do not. I emailed CPR to see if this lack of dimpling was intentional or if I got a dud. I am still waiting to hear back, but some other folks from the Whirlwind Club told me their PF’s are the same. 


Sadly, this is not something I planned for. This is a big hurdle for me. It adds a lot of time to the project and quite honestly not something that I am sure I can pull off. There are over 50 locations that will have to be pinpointed and then drilled by hand. 

I had hoped to sell my old PF to recoup some of the costs from this project, but it looks like I may have to use it as a guide to mark the new PF. 

First pic is of the first CPR run and the thumbnail they use on their site. The second is my PF.

Any chance the dimples are there but just covered in paint and clear?

#15 9 months ago

Why not just take a large sheet of paper and trace all the holes from your original PF, use like charcoal, any changes in the surface will show up, and it will give you a guide/ template. I did this with a overlay install and made it easy to find any tiny little holes that don't go thru.

#16 9 months ago

First off: Happy Birthday!

It is a cool story how you got it and you're going about it right. The dimples are a pain, but some parchment paper (or similar) and some patience it can be done as wdennie mentioned. Just do small sections at a time and make sure to have other pieces installed like weldments, wireforms, posts, brackets, etc. Than dry fit that section as you go. It does take extra time, but the truth be told is that even if it is dimpled, it won't be perfect anyway. I think for all you've accomplished you got this!

And maybe you'll be fortunate and the paint/clear covered them.

#17 9 months ago

Buy a large sheet of tracing paper. Works perfectly.

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#18 9 months ago

Definitely use the tracing paper method. I did a CPR swap once and found the dimples to be only roughly accurate at best. If you transfer the hole locations from your old playfield carefully using the tracing paper method your holes should be more accurately positioned. Though it seems like more work than relying on dimples, the exact opposite is true. Playfield mechanism geometry is important and a pita to get right with dimples. Using tracing paper will save you a TON of adjustment time in the end. Good luck and enjoy the ride!

#19 9 months ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Any chance the dimples are there but just covered in paint and clear?

No, the three wire rails had been dimpled and as small as they were are visible. This was just a skipped step.

Thanks for all of the tips and examples guys. A lot of this is just shock and trying to readjust and a lot is not being confident enough in my abilities to do this with tracing paper. I don't have the steadiest of hands so the tracing and then drilling 50+ spots without a guide is a little nerve racking. Had I known, I definitely would have passed. That being said what's done is done and I need to move forward with this. Hoping to hit up the local art supply store for either frisket or tracing paper today.

It's a long weekend here so hoping to get some rebuilds done and address some wiring issues that are present. It seems like previous owners or tech were/was not very good at re-pinning connectors

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#20 9 months ago

If you need any pictures to reference putting it back together just ask.

#21 9 months ago

Mel you're my hero! My taxi swap made me crazy and I had a ton of help. good luck and let me know what you end up selling the old PF for, if its affordable I'm always looking for new wall art.

#22 9 months ago
Quoted from jhanley:

If you need any pictures to reference putting it back together just ask.

Thanks!

Quoted from Richthofen:

Mel you're my hero! My taxi swap made me crazy and I had a ton of help. good luck and let me know what you end up selling the old PF for, if its affordable I'm always looking for new wall art.

Yeah, my SoF tear down and "swap" was a breeze compared to this. I almost dropped you a line to pick your brain from when you did the Taxi. I'll definitely let you know about the PF.

#23 9 months ago

That’s a bummer about the state of the PF from CPR, but, you can do it!!! Slow and steady and you’ll end up so proud of yourself.

#24 9 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

After just twenty minutes all my bits started to turn grey from some sort of reaction to the simple green.

I never presoak before ultrasonic cleaning. I fill the ultrasonic with a 50/50 mix of simple green and water. A small handful of fasteners run through for 180 seconds at most gets them shiny clean, no gray dullness. Follow immediately with a clean water rinse and dry. I suspect you are leaving your metal in the simple green way too long.

#25 9 months ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

I never presoak before ultrasonic cleaning. I fill the ultrasonic with a 50/50 mix of simple green and water. A small handful of fasteners run through for 180 seconds at most gets them shiny clean, no gray dullness. Follow immediately with a clean water rinse and dry. I suspect you are leaving your metal in the simple green way too long.

Definitely not, the pre-soak was for the tumbler. I usually do an overnight soak in SG before tossing the bits in the tumbler, been doing it for years without issue. This restoration I had access to an ultrasonic so used that. I suspect you are correct about length, though some buddies of mine that also do restorations have been having issues with SG lately. Perhaps they changed the formula. Anyway live and learn and document for others.

I was already pretty excited about everything in the queue for this weekend and then my ramp set from Marco came in AND I got this lovely HF gift card for my b-day. Who needs diamonds and shoes when you can have poorly crafted tools

I'm pretty pumped about the card as I lent out a bunch of my tools I use for these jobs and didn't get them back. Now I can pickup a buffing wheel so make everything really shine.

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#26 9 months ago

Thanks for sharing your work! I have come to "enjoy" all the projects with a project that we seem to discover working on these games. It helps if you don't have a time line for completion! So far your doing great- none of the tiny mistakes will ever show in the completed game and your crushing it.

LMK if you have plans for that old playfield or if you will sell it as is!

#27 9 months ago

This is a very abbreviated guide. I plan on doing a more thorough, learn from my mistakes guide in the next few days.

Time to get frisket with it. I had some “help” on the template today. She doesn’t let her blindness get in the way of her pinball fixin.

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Tools needed: Blue Painters tape to hold plastic in place, calipers, T square, bolt guide, 3/32 bits, ruler, marker or pen that can write on plastic.

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I am lucky enough to live in a college saturated area. As a result we have a great little art supply store in town and I got these 25” x 40” sheets of clear “frisket” to create a template. They don’t quite go down to the bottom, but they were better than nothing.

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At first I lined up and leveled the top and then marked my sides. This turns out does not work as we shall see. After finding my old and new pinball machines did not line up I went back and marked major landmarks.

I did my best to trace out the white areas and the major holes. I am posting this without knowing if my method worked and my marks are ok. I did my best, but I am still pretty upset about the topside not being dimpled. I really hate that I have to experiment on a $750 PF.

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Instead of marking the holes in pen as others have done, I drilled them out. I used a 3/32 bit and my handy dandy bolt guide. I would line the guide up over existing mark (hole size #3) and then drill through the plastic to create a template. All in all it took about thirty minutes to do. Super easy.

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#28 9 months ago

As I noted, at first I marked the sides and top, as well as a few smaller landmarks, but when trying to line up the template on the new PF there were some issues. After taking a walk, drinking a beer and reflecting on my poor life choices I removed the frisket and went back to the old PF and marked some larger landmarks. Fingers crossed this works…

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We will use a 3/32 drill bit to “dimple”. I know some folks like to use the 7/64 for the #6 hex heads, but I went with 3/32. I can always go up if needed. Again, I will use the #3 hole in the bolt guide as a guide to lineup the drill bit. This really helps if you have shaky hands like me and makes lining the drill bit up a breeze. It really helps to cut back on slippage.

Before we drill we are going to heat. I have a heat gun, but hate it. For me, nothing beats my Revlon. As my granddad always said, “you’ve got to have the right tools…”

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#29 9 months ago

So after a stressful session, we have a 99.9% topside drilled PF. I really hope this is right. I measured with the calipers as best I could. There is a reason why Williams and others did these with templates and CNC machines. They really shouldn't be done free hand by amateurs.

There are still another four or so through and through's that will need to be drilled out. I will use my old PF as a guide as well as a drill press to do those to help insure they are straight.

That's pretty much it for today. Hoping to get the bottom side template done tomorrow.

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#30 9 months ago

When you talked about the playfield not being dimpled, I thought you meant the BACK side. That's where I remember running into mechanism geometry trouble with things not working or playing quite right using the CPR dimple locations to attach various mechs. I think it's odd that all of the holes (top and bottom side) are not predrilled during playfield production. It seems like an easy enough thing to do with a CNC machine right along with the various other cutouts and holes during production. Oh well....you are doing great. You just cleared a major hurdle. Keep it up!

#31 9 months ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

When you talked about the playfield not being dimpled, I thought you meant the BACK side. That's where I remember running into mechanism geometry trouble with things not working or playing quite right using the CPR dimple locations to attach various mechs. I think it's odd that all of the holes (top and bottom side) are not predrilled during playfield production. It seems like an easy enough thing to do with a CNC machine right along with the various other cutouts and holes during production. Oh well....you are doing great. You just cleared a major hurdle. Keep it up!

Major thanks for the kind words. The bottom side I could live with. It's the stress of the topside that was getting to me. Oddly enough the bottom side is dimpled, they just didn't do the top.

I emailed CPR on Monday and Tuesday and I still haven't heard back from them about it. This is really something that should be done with their template to make sure the marks are based on the same data points. I'm glad it's over, let's just hope that it works and that I didn't make any mistakes.

#32 9 months ago

Amazing job. Really impressive!

#33 9 months ago

You did a great job! At least if any of the predrilled holes are off they are in areas covered with plastics and parts. You are much more brave than I would be.

#34 9 months ago

This is weird to me... I have not done a CPR playfield but this just seems wrong. Did you contact them to ask what's up? I have to say I have not fully thought this through and maybe there is a reason why it's shipped this way, but the first reaction really is WTF. Is this needed for all CPR playfields? If so, there must be a good reason.... if not I think you need another playfield from CPR.

#35 9 months ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Amazing job. Really impressive!

Thanks, we shall see if it lines up correctly. Many guides and other bits that really need to be lined up perfectly.

Quoted from Squeakman:

You did a great job! At least if any of the predrilled holes are off they are in areas covered with plastics and parts. You are much more brave than I would be.

Brave, stupid, reckless I wasn't sure what else to do. In hindsight there are some things I would have done differently. Especially in areas with ball guides. We shall see how this turns out and then maybe make a new thread about how to turn your CPR into swiss cheese. I say with some sarcasm.

Quoted from rufessor:

This is weird to me... I have not done a CPR playfield but this just seems wrong. Did you contact them to ask what's up? I have to say I have not fully thought this through and maybe there is a reason why it's shipped this way, but the first reaction really is WTF. Is this needed for all CPR playfields? If so, there must be a good reason.... if not I think you need another playfield from CPR.

On the first run of Whirlwinds the topside was dimpled. Most of their PF's have the dimpling, which isn't great, but a solid enough guide. For some reason this run did not. I emailed them twice about it last week and did not hear back either time. I am very curious as to wether or not this was a mistake or intentional. It's been over five months since the run, so I am guessing others have had the same problem.

#36 9 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I emailed them twice about it last week and did not hear back either time.

Unless there is something in it for them, CPR radio silence has been my usual experience. I have reached out to ask questions on numerous occasions and never gotten a response. Although I appreciate that they serve an important niche in a niche hobby, my experience of their customer service has been terrible.

#37 9 months ago

Sunday Funday: Drill Baby Drill.

With the top side "dimpled", let's countersink the pop bumper screws.

There are many useful guides out there, swampfire's has been my go to on this. A lot of great WW info: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ww-restore-something-old-something-new

There are several ways to go about this. Some countersink with a drill, some whack with a hammer and others pull the nail though from the backside by tightening. Concerned about cracking the clear, I decided to go the countersink route.

Tools needed: Countersink Bit Slightly Larger Than Nail Head, Drill, and of course your handy heat source (hair dryer or heatgun).

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The nails I picked up from Pinballlife had 1/4" heads so I went with this handy little 5/16 bit by Kobalt. It has a smaller bit for piloting and then the larger bit to countersink.

To get your depth set correctly, simply insert bit into old nail hole and mark the bit. You can use a sharpie, tape, etc.

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Before drilling on your new PF remember to heat the clear first and then as best as you can center the pilot bit in preexisting hole and carefully drill.

Some Before and Afters:

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#38 9 months ago

Great thread, following for some tips as I have a Mirco playfield I will be swapping later this year...do you seal the clear where you countersink before installing pop bolts?

#39 9 months ago

My Whirlind CPR isn't dimpled as well and poorly drilled.
I was going to check both sides anyway.
The Taxi CPR I used had some missing or incorrectly placed dimples as well.

#40 9 months ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Great thread, following for some tips as I have a Mirco playfield I will be swapping later this year...do you seal the clear where you countersink before installing pop bolts?

I would take this thread thus far with a grain of salt. I plan on doing a recap when all is said and done. I am sure there are many errors that we can all learn from. That being said, I am not sure about re-sealing the pop nails. I think that Kruzman kit you recommend in my other thread would allow for that.

Quoted from bballfan:

My Whirlind CPR isn't dimpled as well and poorly drilled.
I was going to check both sides anyway.
The Taxi CPR I used had some missing or incorrectly placed dimples as well.

I dropped them another line today. I am hoping they write back and clarify what happened with these.

#41 9 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I would take this thread thus far with a grain of salt. I plan on doing a recap when all is said and done. I am sure there are many errors that we can all learn from. That being said, I am not sure about re-sealing the pop nails. I think that Kruzman kit you recommend in my other thread would allow for that.

I dropped them another line today. I am hoping they write back and clarify what happened with these.

FWIW I only sealed holes where the clear lifted. If I got a good hole and it was a clean cut I did not glue. The glue is very fast drying and if you make a mistake it’s a big deal. I only had to use it on first 3 holes and they lifted because I wasn’t careful. Once I learned from my mistakes I did much better.

#42 9 months ago

Not sure what I am going to tackle today. I didn't have much time to work on the game yesterday so I am a bit behind in my schedule. That being said, I thought it would be fun to think about something other than the PF.

I've been thinking of swapping out the yellow pops and red flasher domes with blue. I hate the way the red flashers look and thought it might be nice to try and incorporate some more blue on the PF. I really dug the Blue Moon BSD. I wouldn't go crazy with blue LED's, but just a few plastic changes. The yellow gives it a nice contrast, so I am a little hesitant that going blue may just mute everything. I would to hear everyone's thoughts.

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#43 9 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Not sure what I am going to tackle today. I didn't have much time to work on the game yesterday so I am a bit behind in my schedule. That being said, I thought it would be fun to think about something other than the PF.
I've been thinking of swapping out the yellow pops and red flasher domes with blue. I hate the way the red flashers look and thought it might be nice to try and incorporate some more blue on the PF. I really dug the Blue Moon BSD. I wouldn't go crazy with blue LED's, but just a few plastic changes. The yellow gives it a nice contrast, so I am a little hesitant that going blue may just mute everything. I would to hear everyone's thoughts.

I think replacing the yellow caps with blue would look good but agree it might be a bit lacking in contrast. Orange could be good as it would give more zing color-wise being a stronger color than yellow with the added benefit of bringing out the surrounding blues. (Orange and blue are complimentary colors on the wheel and therefore make one another seem more intense in proximity to each other.)

#44 9 months ago

I have already decided I am going to do the blue pops in place of yellow. I am going to color match everything on this game. The flashers down low will be blue and the top red. There is a to. Of color I. This game so I would t worry about contrast personally. I might even go Titan red and blue rubber also.

#45 9 months ago

Update: Kevin from CPR got back to me. The lack of dimpling was not intentional. It was a missed step in the CNC process. There is not a lot that they can do for me given they only have lesser "quality" bronze PF's available, but he did offer me a bit of a refund for the troubles.

Knowing that this impacts more PF's than just my own, and it's something that other WW folks are going to have to deal with, I wrote up a far more detailed orientated post about how to go about template making, dimpling, etc. I am hoping to save others from the mistakes I made and make the process a bit easier. I need to take some more detailed photos and then I'll post it in a separate thread. Hoping to have it finished by the weekend.

#46 9 months ago

Snow day here yesterday, so I was able to get some work done. I took a break from PF prep to give my nerves, brain and liver a break. I decided to work on some easy cosmetic stuff and got most of the brackets polished, new coil wrappers printed and applied, drops stickers applied and rebuilt...

Today will be a bit more of the same. The tumbler is going, the ultrasonic is doing it's thing, and I am slowly working through adding new coil wrappers, sleeves and spring to all of the mechanisms. I'm also waiting on some fun new bits that should be arriving in today's mail.

I've notice the pics in this thread are a bit of a train wreck with sizing, etc. From here on in I'll try only shooting in square ad if that's not possible keeping it in a similar orientation.

unnamed-5 (resized).jpg

IMG_9489 (resized).jpg

unnamed-11 (resized).jpg

IMG_9448 (resized).jpg

unnamed-9 (resized).jpg

#47 9 months ago

You can download the adjustment label for the back of the disc unit from Inkochnito, a nice finishing touch.

#48 9 months ago
Quoted from johninc:

You can download the adjustment label for the back of the disc unit from Inkochnito, a nice finishing touch.

Sweet! Thanks for the tip!

#49 9 months ago

Wow, this looks great so far! Good luck with the rest of the swap!

#50 9 months ago

Thanks for posting your CPR resolution. I need to go check my WW PF.

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