Welcome to the forums and congrats!

Suggestion: Get a better camera or a steadier hand haha . Seriously LOL.

Can you take a better picture of the connector 3 pics back. It has 4 fuses and 4 yellow loops on the right hand side. The 4 yellow loops connector is what we need more detail of. GI should always be on (or blinking). Have you tried swapping GI bulbs from good to bad just to make sure it's not the bulbs that are out? The backbox has two sets of bulbs... #44 GI bulbs and #455 blinkers (I think there are 6 or 7 of them across the center). Try putting a working one in a bad one's slot. You might get lucky and simply need a few boxes of light bulbs!

Also can you take a better picture of the 2nd pic in your "no diamondplate" reply. Something looks reworked or burned there. may or may not be an issue.

You DEFININTELY need to purchase a multimeter if you want to own and fix issues on your pinball. I wish I had a pinball at 16, let alone my favorite -- Whirlwind. Congrats man!!

Those multiplier lights are all connected to a single circuit board underneath. Can you verify that the Shoot Again light and the Right Spinner light do or do not work? If those don't work, then the problem is likely with the Yellow/Grey wire that's in commong with all 8 of those lights.

Your GI problem is definitely that connector. That's a typical failure. I've had to repair the GI connector on 6 of my games. The problem is that connector was rated for a lower amperage/heat rating then it would have drawn in arcades with the game being left on for hours and hours at a time.

As for repairing it, the good news is that the parts are cheap (the whole process costs about $5). The bad news is that it requires wire stripping, crimping, and soldering on a new header (what the connector goes into on the circuit board). You might want to have a tech come do this for you, or we can point you to a parts list and instructions.

As for the first picture, it looks like someone replaced a transistor and resistor. Can you put your multimeter into Ohms (resistance) mode and see what you get with one lead on each metal leg on R43? I'm concerned that it looks "black".

Regarding the 6 multiplier lights, if the shoot again and spinner lights work, then the issue is not the entire lamp column in the lamp matrix. More likely your voltage wire (yellow) feeding into the 6 lamp board is either not fully seated in the connector, or is not getting continuity from it's connection. I'd have to check my Whirlwind to see where this yellow wire connects to.

Ronnie, there are several other identical resistors adjacent to R43 (R42,46,47). You should get about 68 ohms on them. It doesn't matter which way you put the leads on a resistor. I want to make sure you're measuring it in the right mode. If you DO get about 68 on them and bubkiss on R43, you likely have an additional problem. Q17 and Q13 next to it could very well both be bad.

Have you run the game through the various test modes to check the sounds, lights, etc... Put the game in the solenoid test to fire off the flippers, flashers, kickers, ramp diverter, etc... I'm willing to bet your left slingshot does not fire either

I would be happy to work on your machine, but alas I've never stepped foot in Washington state. Hopefully others here can recommend some help locally if this is a bit too much to chew. The benefit is that a "GOOD" tech will explain things along the way so you're paying him for not only the repair, but a great intro to pinball repair.

Yikes, bozo is right. One of those pins should be removed from the board and a "key" (blocking piece of plastic) in the connector so that you CAN'T put it on the wrong way. Unless that's a black connector (mine was white like the others), it looks charred and should be replaced ASAP.

Indeed if the connector is black, it has been repaired. Surprised someone did an IDC passthrough, but black is good. Don't worry about the other half then.

As for R43, that resistor has to be good if the left slingshot works (you may not have tested it correctly). Machine looks great! Your fan topper is naked and needs a decal though Enjoy it. It was my first pin, and still here!

multimeter in DC voltage. With the connector removed from the 6-lamp board...

black lead clipped to a ground (side rail, etc...), red lead probed into the other end of pin 1 on the connector (yellow wire), what do you get for a voltage, if any (game turned on)?

If nada, you need to put the multimeter into buzz/continuity mode (touching the two leads should make it beeeeeeep). Follow the yellow wire to its next stopping point. Keep the red lead in pin 1. Take the black lead and CAREFULLY touch along the yellow wire's stopping points (which if memory serves me, should be the shoot again light and whatever wind direction is under the spinner). Ultimately you should find a break (no tone).

LOL!!! I didn't even notice this. Bahahah. The heck with what I posted, electricity doesn't work when your bulb sockets are not touching the metal contacts. They are definitely upside down, and would be shining into the cabinet, not the inserts -- aside from the fact they are not touching any metal.

Hmmm I didn't notice rust on any of the solder pads for the bulbs. That looks like a camera flash bulb effect. Look at the first pic in the 15th post with the text "Here are some pics of that board for the lights. It had all of this black powder on it and so did the underside playfield where the board was". Board looks fine in my worthless opinion

Can you take a picture of the board now, with the connector plugged in. Did you follow my post above to see if you are getting voltage to the board via the yellow wire?