Whirlwind G.I issues

(Topic ID: 221657)

Whirlwind G.I issues


By RGAires

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by wayout440
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    There have been 11 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    cabinet bottom (resized).JPG
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png

    #1 3 months ago

    Hello everyone.
    Ive recently pick an Whirlwind and i seem to be have some issues with the lamps GI. Ive already check all the fuses and the connectors on the interconnect board, but im ok if i need to do it again, also have a multimeter if we need to check something.

    1 - inserts seems to be all out but while im playing some of them flash.
    2 - slings, guide lanes and some sides seams ok.
    3 - top G.I is almost all gone.
    4 - no G.I also on the display.

    Except that the game is working 100%.
    Some pics and a video of the gameplay.

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #2 3 months ago

    Any ideias, from where to start looking. thanks

    #3 3 months ago

    My guess is if you unplug J14 you will lose the lighting you have. It seems like the entire line that is associated with J7 is down. Can you snap a pic of what you have at J7 on your interconnect?

    #4 3 months ago

    First thing is check the connectors nearest the transformer in the cabinet bottom.
    These get toasted. Take them apart, clean the contacts (I use DeOxit).
    If burnt then they need replacing.

    It was these connectors on my WW that killed the backbox and rear playfield GI.

    Then move along to the next connections in the backbox.

    cabinet bottom (resized).JPG
    #5 3 months ago

    There are connectors on the interconnect board in the backbox that carry the GI power from the transformer to the game. The interconnect board is the one on the very bottom in the backbox. The GI wiring and fuses are all on the right side of that board. It's labeled showing the input from the transformer, fuses and outputs to the backbox and playfield. Those .156" headers and connectors for the GI get burned and will need replacing.

    Also, under the playfield and behind the backbox light panel is a GI relay. These relays are used to flash the GI and the .156" connectors on those get burned too causing the same lighting issues.

    #6 3 months ago
    Quoted from schudel5:

    There are connectors on the interconnect board in the backbox that carry the GI power from the transformer to the game. The interconnect board is the one on the very bottom in the backbox. The GI wiring and fuses are all on the right side of that board. It's labeled showing the input from the transformer, fuses and outputs to the backbox and playfield. Those .156" headers and connectors for the GI get burned and will need replacing.
    Also, under the playfield and behind the backbox light panel is a GI relay. These relays are used to flash the GI and the .156" connectors on those get burned too causing the same lighting issues.

    Most of the problems with GI can be attributed to bad IDC connectors. Use a meter to determine if the GI voltage is making it off a connector. For example, you'll have an IDC connector that you can check for voltage on the top at the little pinch pins, but you can't really tell if it is making it through the insulation and to the stranded conductor inside. From there you need to measure voltage at that wires end destination.

    The AC GI circuits come off the interconnect in pairs of a solid color and a striped wire of that solid color for each branch on this series of games. For example, measuring across solid violet wire to the white/violet striped wire should reveal the GI supply voltage.

    #7 3 months ago
    Quoted from P2K:

    First thing is check the connectors nearest the transformer in the cabinet bottom.
    These get toasted. Take them apart, clean the contacts (I use DeOxit).
    If burnt then they need replacing.
    It was these connectors on my WW that killed the backbox and rear playfield GI.
    Then move along to the next connections in the backbox.

    Ive tested, and no broken wires or connectors

    #8 3 months ago
    Quoted from nerdygrrl:

    My guess is if you unplug J14 you will lose the lighting you have. It seems like the entire line that is associated with J7 is down. Can you snap a pic of what you have at J7 on your interconnect?

    Yes, i can of course.

    pasted_image (resized).png
    #9 3 months ago
    Quoted from schudel5:

    There are connectors on the interconnect board in the backbox that carry the GI power from the transformer to the game. The interconnect board is the one on the very bottom in the backbox. The GI wiring and fuses are all on the right side of that board. It's labeled showing the input from the transformer, fuses and outputs to the backbox and playfield. Those .156" headers and connectors for the GI get burned and will need replacing.
    Also, under the playfield and behind the backbox light panel is a GI relay. These relays are used to flash the GI and the .156" connectors on those get burned too causing the same lighting issues.

    The GI relay on the backbox seams to work ok, because i have light on the backbox, i can try to unplug the connectors on the relay´s of the playfield, and see if the playfield GI have any diference..

    #10 3 months ago

    deleted was incorrect

    #11 3 months ago

    Do you see that connector to the right yellow wires with white traces, how does that connector look? Is it burned at all?

    You can also use page 98 in the manual to verify that you have the correct connectors plugged in. It will give you the connector location and where it goes to for each board.

    https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/W/Whirlwind_OPS.pdf

    #12 3 months ago

    the J6 right?

    pasted_image (resized).png
    #14 3 months ago

    Ive measure with me multimeter AC

    J9
    white/yellow to yellow
    white/violet to violet

    J7
    green to white/green
    brown to white/brown

    J6
    1 to 6, 2 to 7, 3 to 8, and 4 to 9

    Ive about 6VAC on all the this tests..

    Another info, i dont know if can help, somethimes when i plug the machine i hear a crack, similar to the sound when you earn a crédit...

    #15 3 months ago

    I guess test at the sockets themselves. It seems like everything on/going off board is A-OK

    #16 3 months ago
    Quoted from nerdygrrl:

    My guess is if you unplug J14 you will lose the lighting you have. It seems like the entire line that is associated with J7 is down. Can you snap a pic of what you have at J7 on your interconnect?

    When i unplug the J14 nothing happens, is there a way to teste the power on this connector?
    All the others (J6, J7, J9) is tested them, they seam ok, and when i unplug them, they have actions associated.

    #17 3 months ago

    I am on the road today and unfortunately I can only go by that manual which is giving me diff info. Maybe someone more familiar with the machine can come on and chime in.

    This is why that lamp matrix table is so important as it tells you how and if the lamp are connected and what pins/connectors they correspond to.

    #18 3 months ago

    J14 is the connector for your playfield lamps. If they are running in attract mode, unplugging J14 will kill the lamps. J3 is the input side for this circuit, coming from the CPU board. If you unplug J3, same thing - it will kill all the lamps. If you have no lamps in the first place, follow the procedure in the link below to test lamp rows and columns at the CPU connectors 1J6 and 1J7. If it is not working there, it will never get through the interconnect board. The purpose of the interconnect board is to break out the controlled lamp circuits to feed some to the playfield and some to the insert board (backbox)
    http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index2.htm#lamp

    #19 3 months ago

    were i have a pic of that...

    First of all i need to test this connectors (J20, J13, J14 and the input side for this circuit J3), see if they have power, attrack mode for example, if DONT i jump to test the J6 and J7 on the CPU board.. I think im correct, right?

    pasted_image (resized).png
    #20 3 months ago
    Quoted from RGAires:

    were i have a pic of that...
    First of all i need to test this connectors (J20, J13, J14 and the input side for this circuit J3), see if they have power, attrack mode for example, if DONT i jump to test the J6 and J7 on the CPU board.. I think im correct, right?

    If none of the controlled lamps are working, start with checking power at the controlled lamp power supply, see if you have +18VDC at the large cap for the bridge located lower right corner of the backbox, I think. If you have controlled lamp supply power, then test the lamp matrix connectors at the CPU board.

    #21 3 months ago

    Ive found this, correct me if im wrong
    Who to measure BR.

    * Machine OFF and can be tested without removed.

    "
    You have to find the "+" leg on the bridge.
    it's the offset leg, the indented one. and the
    "-" leg is diagonal to it. The other 2 legs are
    the AC legs. often there are marks on the
    side of the bridge to help.

    put the DMM set to diode function.
    RED dmm lead on the "-" bridge leg.
    BLACK dmm lead on either AC bridge leg.
    should get .4 to .6 volts.

    then...
    BLACK dmm lead on the "+" bridge leg.
    RED dmm lead on either AC bridge leg.
    should get .4 to .6 volts.

    often bridges short of go open. so if this is
    the case, it's easy to see. Open means no
    reading. a short will be like .2 volts or less.
    "

    #22 3 months ago

    Check the power coming out of the bridge for +18VDC (about 16-20VDC). If it is there, everything is good up to that point including the bridge rectifier.

    Testing the bridge itself doesn't do any good unless confirming a suspected failure of that part.

    #23 3 months ago

    ive found, a lose wire on the BR...
    Now i have another issues but i think is the bateries, "adjustment failure"

    Really thanks to all, especially to wayout 440

    #24 3 months ago

    Your welcome, glad you found it!

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 15.00
    Cabinet - Decals
    Siegecraft Electronics
    $ 8,500.00
    Pinball Machine
    Classic Game Rooms
    € 50.00
    Boards
    FLIPPROJETS
    $ 229.99
    $ 229.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 89.00
    Cabinet Parts
    Pappy's Pinball Palace
    $ 76.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 200.00
    Lighting - Interactive
    Professor Pinball
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 66.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 229.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 11.99
    From: $ 5,799.00
    Pinball Machine
    Music City Pinball
    $ 6.35
    Cabinet - Decals
    PinGraffix Pinside Shop
    $ 107.95
    Lighting - Other
    Hookedonpinball.com
    $ 35.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    3D MODS
    $ 13.00
    $ 89.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 29.99
    Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 19.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ULEKstore
    $ 259.99
    $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside