(Topic ID: 73903)

Whirlwind flipper rebuild disaster

By swenny

10 years ago


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  • 48 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by Hawk007
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

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#1 10 years ago

I recently rebuilt my left flipper on my WW and everything went fine. Played it for a week with no problems. I decided to go ahead and do my right upper flipper. Got it done, turned on the machine and the upper flipper wouldn't work. Nothing. Pushed the button a few times and then all of a sudden, the bottom right flipper stopped working as well. In addition, now when I press the button for the left flipper, it works, but after about a half second delay, the solenoid for the drain hole will activate as well. It's like this thing is possessed. I don't even know where to begin. Anyone have any ideas? For what it worth, my upper flipper is blue and my lower ones are red, but the rebuild kits I got from pinballlife.com were all the same. I don't think that would make any difference, but I obviously don't know for sure.

#3 10 years ago

I have 3 wires coming to my lower flipper, 1 is blue w/ yellow bands, 1 is blue w/ a yellow stripe and 1 is black w/ yellow bands. I have the 2 blue ones attached to one outside lug. The black wire is attached to the other outside lug along w/ one of the wires coming from the switch. The wire at the middle lug goes to the other side of the switch. I'm going to try and attach a pic of what it looks like.

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#5 10 years ago

Thanks for the help Hoot. Originally the lugs were at theother end of the coil, but when I rebuilt it I moved them to the other end per Vids flipper rebuild thread. I think maybe in flipping the coil the wires got reversed. I am going to switch the outside lugs tonight and see if that solves theproblem.

How do you tell which lug is which?

Thanks,

Swenny

#8 10 years ago

Thanks for the help guys. Obviously I am new to this.

I know the diode is the little black thing on the wire between the lugs. How do you tell which direction they run? Does the band mean that is the direction the power is coming from?

Also, assuming I wired things in the wrong direction, which is looking to be what happened, what else, if anything is now fried and needs to be replaced?

Thanks for the pics Russ. I've seen the top one before, but not the bottome one. That's very helpful.

Swenny

#11 10 years ago

Would the diodes burn up and have to be replaced? How about the coil?

Where do I start when looking for blown fuses?

Thanks

#12 10 years ago

Russ, yes, that makes sense. My green wires that run to the EOS are correct, the picture just makes it appear that the green wire on the right is going to the right lug, but it does in fact go to the center. By swapping the wires on the outside lugs it should solve my wiring problem.

I'm just trying to figure out if anything else will need to be replaced/repaired, or if switching the wires should solve the problem.

#15 10 years ago

Thx guys. I think I'm going to swap out the coil and buy a new one. Apparently this one is (blue) is NOT the stock one for the game anyway.

As for checking the fuses, other than visually inspecting them to see if they're blown, is there anything else I would need to do to check them?

mof, I do have a manual, I just don't know what about 75% of it means. Schematics look like something my kid drew in kindergarten; and I have no idea what those lamp and switch matrixes are used for.

#17 10 years ago

Awesome, I have a dmm!! Never used it... but I have one. Now, as dumb as this will sound, how do I test a fuse w/ a dmm? Is it simply a matter of putting a probe on each side of the fuse and seeing if I register a number? Also, what do I set the dmm to, ohms or volts?

#24 10 years ago

Thanks guys. I wrapped electrical tape of different colors around the wires to identify them but was stupid and didn't take a picture before hand. Lesson learned. I do like your way better. Pretty hard to mess that up.

Now, here's the new wiring. I've switched the wires on the outside lugs. I think the wiring is good to go. Can someone confirm that for me.

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#25 10 years ago

Also, when I opened the backbox up and looked at my fuses, this was the F5. Didn't need to use the dmm on it.

Camera wouldn't focus up close, but this thing is fried.

I've replaced w/ a new 2A SB fuse.

If the wiring is good to go, is it OK to turn it on at this point?

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#28 10 years ago

Well, it's back to the drawing board. Turned it on, ALL the flippers worked for about 5-6 flips then both upper and lower R ones quit on me. Further, the left one works but about a half second after I hit the button the outhole kicker solenoid fires. I have no clue why.

Help guys, what do I do next?

#30 10 years ago

Haven't checked yet, but I'm assuming that's the next step?

#33 10 years ago

OK, the same fuse, F5, blew again. Now what? Does that fact that the flipper is the stronger 11629 make any difference? It's not the stock flipper, 11630, but the 11629 was in the machine when I got it and I played it that way for over a month without any problems.

#35 10 years ago

DSB,
How do I do a switch edge test and a coil test?

Anyone have any idea what's going on w/ the left flipper?

Hawk, I have new diodes on order. I'm just going to replace the old ones when I get the new ones in.

#39 10 years ago

I actually ordered new cab switches as well. As crappy as the old ones looked, I figured I'd just go ahead and replace them. Hopefully they show up tomorrow so I can work on it this weekend.

Yes, I think the eos switches are gapped properly. I'm having a problem w/ my dmm, so I need to get that figured out b/4 I can properly check all the fuses. I could clearly see F5 was blown just from a visual inspection. Once my dmm problem is resolved I will check all the fuses.

I'll let you know what I find after completing all of the above. Thanks for the help guys.

#40 10 years ago

Yeah, I'll do some additional pics as well. Won't be until tomorrow night though.

#41 10 years ago

Getting ready to replace the diodes on my flipper. After pulling the first one off it says it's a 1N4003. I can't find any 1N4003's, only 1N4004. Neither Pinball Life or Great Plains electronics has 4003 diodes. The flipper is the FL-11629.

Anyone know if they are interchangeable or not?

Thanks

#44 10 years ago

Thanks guys. I've got some 4004's so I'm going to go ahead and use them. We'll see what happens.

#45 10 years ago

Also, I did check all the other fuses w/ a DMM. All the others were fine, so I'm hoping replacing the diodes will solve the problem.

#46 10 years ago

Success!! After replacing the diodes on the coil the flipper works perfectly. I've played several games so far w/out any problem. Thanks to everyone that helped me figure this out.

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