(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!

By mof

6 years ago

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  • 3,179 posts
  • 333 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 minutes ago by ccbiggsoo7
  • Topic is favorited by 157 Pinsiders


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#1987 1 year ago
Quoted from zerbam:

so who sells the best looking, most accurate, best texture replacement 3 spinner decals?

I’d Also like to know.

2 weeks later
#2050 1 year ago

Picked up a Whirlwind recently. In decent shape. I had to de-rainbow-puke it, rivet one target and replace another broken one.

Question: When a ball is in the shooter lane for a period of time, the game goes into a ball search. Is this normal?
Shooter lane switch is working correctly.

#2052 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Is the shooter lane switch registering? That doesn’t sound normal.

"Shooter lane switch is working correctly."

Moved this post to the System 11 Club!


1 week later
#2101 1 year ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

No issues with multi ball tonight but it's not the first time it's made it through a session without messing up.

Had crazy time intermittent scoring issues (double skyway tolls) a few days ago.

I’ve seen similar issues on WH2O when there was a short in the switch matrix.

Turned out to be a bent switch contact close enough to the diode that would sometimes be triggered by a pop, sling or flipper.

Might be worth looking at all switches.

2 weeks later
#2130 1 year ago

I had people over to play pins this past weekend. Whirlwind developed three issues. Two of the three are solved. Any suggestions for #3 below would be appreciated.

1. The left flipper stopped working. I recently brought back the WW from TPF and had just completed rebuilding the flippers (upgrading to the Fliptronics style).

Diagnosis: The new end of stroke switch was not making good contact. After burnishing the contacts, everything was back to normal.

2. The three spinning discs were slow, and would stop spinning when touched.

Checked: fuses were good, the motor was receiving power, and there were no cracked solder joints on the 10 Ω ceramic resistor located on the motor controller pcb. Diagnosis: both set screws (#02-4419) in the pinion gear were backed out from the shaft. See pictures below for detail of the location of the set screws. To access them, you will need to remove compass arrow circuit board lamp assembly. See pictures below.

3. Right orbit spinner not registering each rotation of the spinner.

Checked: Switch edge test working properly for the spinner.
Adjustments: I removed the switch and ran it through an ultrasonic bath with citrus based cleaner to remove out 20+ years of gunk - reinstalled and verified switch registered properly. The blade was adjusted so that the slightest rotation of the spinner target would cause the switch to register. The spinner points of contact (arms and shaft & switch blade) were lightly lubricated with spout oil.

Result: When a ball rips through the spinner, not every rotation registers as a switch hit. I am not sure if there is too much internal wear and therefore friction within the switch and/or the spinner shaft and switch blade have too much friction.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'll put a new switch on the shopping list.

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#2132 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Likely you have the blades TOO close together, and a good solid hit, the CPU sees the switch 'close', but misses the quick opening of the contacts..

I tried a couple of combinations of blade angles bends, all with the same result. I'll try again.

#2135 1 year ago

Need help identifying pieces

Quoted from Coyote:Oh! Okay, didn't know that. I ran into that issue on my Meteor - I wanted the spinner to score well, and at the adjustment I had it, it would award, then freeze and jump the score until it slowed down.

Seems a bit better after tweaking the switch blade. Doesn't react as well as my SMVE but the processors on the games are 20 years apart. Thanks.

#2136 1 year ago

Need help identifying some mystery pieces left in the coin box when I purchased the game (the scale is English units, inches).

Are these parts from Whirlwind? If so, where do they belong?


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#2138 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Don't know if they fit Whirlwind or not, but they are microswitch covers for Entropy coin doors.

Thanks coyote !

#2141 1 year ago
Quoted from bklossner:

Has anyone updated/upgraded the volume pot for their Whirlwind? The current pot is stock. I don't like it because, at the lowest setting, this sucker can still be pretty loud. I'm placing a Mouser order for some parts regarding another project (building an KT88 SE monoblock amp) and am thinking about adding a volume pot to the order for Whirlwind.
The schematics list the stock pot being 7.1Ω so I'm thinking a 25-50Ω thingie might do a better job.
I want to be able to go from silence to arcade-level loud.

You should try by-passing the resistor before ordering new parts.

Jumper (bypass) the resistor at the pot to test first (alligator clips with wire between, clipped to both sides of the resistor). If your pot is good, the volume will go to zero. If this works for you, cut and re- solder.

I ultimately removed the resistor from the circuit.

The picture below shows the resistor cut from the circuit.

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1 month later
#2197 1 year ago
Quoted from Leosac:

Spinners aren’t spinning. When I run the diagnostic it makes a slight whirring sound but no movement of the spinners. Thoughts?

Had same issue. See #2 from this post. You may need to tighten your set screws.


1 month later
#2261 1 year ago

I’m out of town and cannot look at my board.

“J7” does not make sense. Is this the J127 connector?

Regardless, that connector needs to be replaced.

Here’s a good thread for WW GI issues:

#2263 1 year ago

Apologies. I was thinking of white water. The connector will need to be replaced.

I’m on an iPhone so looking at the schematics are difficult.

Take the fuses out of their holders and check with a multimeter.

If all are good, you can check the wires directly. You’ll need to remove them from the connector and CAREFULLY touch each wire to the corresponding pin on the board header. (With Power on)

If the corresponding GI lights come on , only the connector needs to be replaced. I’d also recommend replacing the board header.

#2264 1 year ago

I’ll be back on Thursday and can send a picture then if you haven’t found the problem.

1 month later
#2323 1 year ago
Quoted from TBatti:

Can someone please show me a pic of their lock lane. I'm getting an error on test report for switch #24 but I don't even have a #24 lock 3. I only have 2 switch #22 and #23 which are lock 1 and lock 2. I don't understand what is happening? Is there actually 3 switches?

Yes, there should be three switches. It appears you are missing one.

3 months later
#2464 10 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Cointaker makes some great kits! This go around, I used the list someone posted in this thead (pretty sure) and ordered from Comet.
Just trying to figure out what the bulbs are for the flashers in backbox as they are smaller round bulbs that I haven’t experienced before.

Are you talking about the 545 blinking bulbs?

1 month later
#2582 8 months ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

I really don’t have a clue. I have no idea who the guy is I just needed those for T2 and he happened to have them. I didn’t want to buy a whole set cause I was already in the game more than I’ll get out of it lol. I think the blue on one was a little dark.
I have a cpr set for whirlwind I just am tryin to decide if I want to buy a playfield or not. Whirlwind is my favorite game of all time so I probably will

I've a Mirco #whirlwind playfield showing up shortly. Can't wait.

1 week later
#2594 8 months ago

The Mirco Whirlwind playfield arrived today.
I'll admit a rookie mistake - I got rid of the old playfield without tracing it out for a template. Ouch.

But, my playfield served as the layout model (physical, not graphics) for Mirco's production so I'm hoping everything fits perfectly when I get around to putting back together.

I'm hoping I can have it ready for TPF again this year but I'm not sure if it's going to be done in time.

Regardless, here's a look at the Mirco Whirlwind playfield

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#2596 8 months ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Is it dimpled?

Oh it will be, as soon as the steel ball hits the field.

But yes, it is drilled and dimpled.

#2610 8 months ago
Quoted from zene10:

Oh it will be, as soon as the steel ball hits the field.
But yes, it is drilled and dimpled.

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#2612 8 months ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

About those dimples...I learned to view them as a guide. Most of the time they are in the correct spot. On High Speed, there are three sets of 3 targets. They are not in a "bank" but individually attached to the bottom of the playfield. One would think the dimples would be in a nice straight line and properly centered in the cut-out in the playfield....not so. When I asked CPR why they would not make them right they replied, because that was the way they were on the playfield they used to map them. In another case, don't recall the game, the left flipper mechanism was way too close to a light socket...I mean right up against it. I rotated that flipper mechanism to a much safer orientation....
Just food for thought.

Thanks for the warning. I'm aware the dimples are usually "guides".

However, my original playfield was used as the CAD template for dimpling, drilling and routing the Mirco playfields so I'm hoping (fingers crossed) everything should line up correctly.


2 months later
#2830 5 months ago
Quoted from grantopia:

Would someone be able to provide me a few pictures of the side ramp entry, but from the angle of the side/back of the game? I think the light metal flap that covers the left "wall" of the entry of that ramp is missing, but I want to see what a good one looks like and how its attached to see what part(s) I need to find to replace it.

Not sure if you mean left side or right side ramp.

The left ramp has a metal protector that sits to the right of the 3 bank target leading to the ramp.
My left ramp does not have a metal flap.

The right ramp does not have a metal flap attached, however the right wall (metal bracket) of the lift ramp has a spring steel flap riveted to the bracket protecting the right side entrance to the right ramp.

See pictures.

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#2832 5 months ago
Quoted from grantopia:

Thanks, those first two pictures (side ramp) was what I was looking for. My game looked strange to me because there wasn't a flap covering that gap/post between the metal protector on the 3 bank and the ramp itself but it sounds like there shouldn't be one there. Interesting...

No protection, that’s why all the ramps are cracked, broken or gone in that spot.

Cliffy’s has a protector

#2836 5 months ago

Does anyone know the placement location of Whirlwind decal 31-1540-574-5-SP?
I'm assuming it is a ramp decal, but it doesn't seem to fit anywhere.
My original ramps did not have this decal attached.
The dimensions are approximately 16.5 cm long by 3 cm wide (6.5 inches long x 1 inch wide).

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1 week later
#2850 5 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

That's the upper ramp. It could be the decal that goes on the separate plastic above the habitrail just after the ramp.there is a similar yellow one on the left ramp.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Yes, it's the left ramp. Should have put a scale on my decal. It's only about 7 inches long and does not have the hand - huge clue.

Thanks to jhanley I put it here. Made sense since it's on the outside of a ramp. No where else made sense.

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#2851 5 months ago

Now where do all the extra repro cloud plastics go? I started mixing old and new extras on this rebuild.

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2 weeks later
#2877 4 months ago
Quoted from schwism:

I’m in! Just got this today. Everything is in great shape (my first SS to go with 5 EMs and I didn’t want to start with a project).[quoted image][quoted image]

Congratulations. But please, please, please get rid of those awful colored bulbs. Go with all frosted warm whites, sunlights or a mix of the two.

I picked up one about two years ago with the same type horrendous colors, including the translite.

3 months later
#2970 48 days ago
Quoted from BenB:

Can someone also point me in the direction of a replacement spinner and foil decals for my WW

ebay: search holographic fishing lure tape.

ebay.com link » 3 X 12 2 Pk New Micro Prism Holographic Fishing Lure Tape In 16 Colors

1 week later
#3005 40 days ago
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#3025 34 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Does anyone know where to buy a set of ramp decals? Mine have areas that detached and dirt/grime got underneath from some previous cleaning attempt.

If the decals are in good shape clean with isopropyl to remove all adhesive and dirt.

Re-adhere with spray adhesive or double sided tape like Scotch ATG Adhesive Transfer Tape 976.

1 week later
#3082 24 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Are you removing the mylar even if it's in pretty decent shape? If you are removing it... is this era of game better using the freeze or heat gun method?

I pulled all the mylar from the upper and lower playfields of a WH2O using a plastic razor blade and naptha.

Add a couple of drops of naptha, slowly work the blade under the mylar and repeat.

The naptha softens the adhesive and the blade slides nicely. It makes it easy to get all the sticky gunk off of the field.

#3092 22 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

How much of a gap do you guys have on either side of your lifting ramp? I have to adjust the screw holes in my new ramp as mine's dragging.
Is it centered?

You're running into the same issues I had with the Mirco reproduction field. On the original playfield, the lift ramp was all the way to the left, almost against the bracket (from the player's perspective).

For the Mirco install, I adjusted the ramp so that it is closer to center. Additionally the lift arm was shifted slightly away from the ramp brackets. On the original, the fixed hex nut (opposite the retaining nylon lock nut) of the lift pin was rubbing against the side of the ramp bracket.

Getting this part correct, along with centering the spinning disk housing so all the disks line up correctly were the most frustrating part of the re-build.

Good luck.

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