Whirlwind
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Here's to hoping that there's another run of Whirlwind playfields by CPR. I didn't know they existed, and now that I know, there's no way to get one at a reasonable price. The only issues with my whirlwind is playfield wear. Other than that it's a wonderful working machine.
Quoted from pencilneck:Welcome to the club. You might find this helpful for a paint color:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TV12ei6xxh1H43s36
If you plan on doing playfield swap, then I would suggest to strip the cabinet, bondo/sand baby butt smooth, then new cabinet decals and paint so you have a better than new cabinet.
What type of paint did you use? Gloss? NY banned oil based paint...
Quoted from Mageek:Oh so that's how I got that had the game for about 5 years and first time I heard it was about a month ago, but didn't know what happened. Thanks, now I will be trying for it.....
That's the best way to make sure it never happens again. I think it's one of the harder combos to hit. I've only ever hit it accidentally.
Quoted from zene10:ebay: search holographic fishing lure tape.
ebay.com link » 3 X 12 2 Pk New Micro Prism Holographic Fishing Lure Tape In 16 Colors
good call! thanks!
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:getting ready to order these, did you get yours started yet? like to see how they look, and what prep is needed.
Just put them on today. Process here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/full-restore-of-a-whirlwind#post-5193174
Plenty I didn't think I'd have to do.
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Quoted from Mageek:Can't really tell the colour from the photo but if it is Brn / Gry check this diagram.[quoted image]
Ah... It's the lone wire that's going to J11 on the interconnect board.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from orangegsx:HERE IT COMESSSS!!!
ok well this is when it usually comes... uneventfully start to multi-ball tonight..[quoted image]
Is that an extra layer under the cellar protectors? I see something thin and clear.
Quoted from northerndude:Absolutely that's a playfield protector. I had put one on my Bally Game Show, man it played fast with it!
Ah... you know, i was looking at it wrong. I was thinking that it wasn't covering everything and that it was just around the edges. I see it now. Thanks!
Quoted from jhanley:It wears out that way. I got one at Marco pinball. Part # 02-4429
I think mine was hand made. There's no way that half of the shaft wore out evenly. Adding this to my next order. Thanks!
Quoted from pencilneck:A short film staring my Whirlwind:
It's amazing how often that happens.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Get some spot light sockets and reflectors to add some more light to the playfield.
More light where?
Just something that I'm pondering here...
Whirlwind discs that actually grip, instead of this slippery stuff they've been selling.
Bottom left is what's currently on the machine originally from marco(slippery crap)
upper left is what marco just sent me (more slippery crap)
Upper right has slightly more grip
Lower right has a whole lot more grip
My samples are only 2" wide, so that's why the don't cover the paper completely.
I just mocked up the small disc in illustrator quick. Never did that before, so ignore any color/layout issues.
The material is washable, so it should last forever. It won't fall apart and won't damage the ball.
The most aggressive one doesn't look that bumpy in person. I think the flash caused that.
Quoted from orangegsx:On the sheet is new old stock decals I purchased from the original supplier. He said it was material they patented called sun grip. Its actually kind of soft like leather and pretty bumpy. Grips the ball well.
[quoted image]
Could you take a direct overhead picture of each disk for me for color and design? You're the only one that I've ever seen have NOS decals.
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Is there some sort of rubber spray out there or something which will add some adhesion to the decals without impacting on their look?
Nothing that will last. I'm trying to make a permanent solution that's colored and sized correctly and completely washable. There are no crevices where dirt can stick. Using a similar, but thinner material, I can probably recreate the other targets as well that will never wear out.
Can someone tell me what the dimension in the gap on their lift ramp looks like? I have my original version and the version from Starship Fantasy.
My original is on the left and the one from starship on the right Part number 02-4429, pin crank is sitting in the gap. In the original, it's loose and in the new ramp the pin won't move. Larry says, "The pin in your game is not the original."
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The pin has an outside diameter of 0.185"
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Old lift ramp gap: 0.272"
New lift ramp gap: 0.175" (smaller than the pin OD)
Quoted from RonSwanson:Wasn't your original ramp pin cut or ground down? Mine is original (I'm pretty sure) and also cut down. Does the original pin work with the new ramp?
My original pin was ground down, but also worn down. In the new lift ramp, the ground down pin has to sit in perfectly or it will rub. I'm going to cobble parts to make it work with an un-ground pin.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I don't recall seeing outlane posts... I'll take another look tonight.
There are 4 posts that can be moved. 2 on each side at the bottom of the "thunder bumpers" above the outlanes.
Quoted from zacaj:Anyone have a spare right spinner gear by any chance? Mine seems to have been drilled out to install a carriage bolt :/
Fill it with epoxy or resin, sand it and redrill the right size. I'm guessing these aren't too common.
Quoted from RonSwanson:Yes, the black/black-yellow on the far left in your hand goes to the speaker.
Thanks. Any idea about the violet - violet/white one? It's right near the 18 pin connector @ j14 on the interconnect board.
Quoted from RonSwanson:The only violet - violet/white connector I found connects to J2 on what I think is called the back panel lamp board. It's the lamp board just above the ramps at the back of the playfield, and stretches the width of the playfield. The wires go through a hole at the top of the vertical blue board at the back of the playfield. However my connector is a 3 pin IDC, with the middle pin not used.
I found a connector hanging in the pile of wires. Thanks for your help!
I just threw the fuses in and turned it on for the first time since starting the rebuild. Other than hooking up the speakers, it's just debugging a few troubling lamp sockets.
Thanks!
The ruleset is pretty good on the machine given the era. I keep trying to remember what triggers what. The cellar trigger the ramp up/down. Lane triggers timed cellar light. Left ramp resets cellar light. Left ramp spots a compass direction. Each center standup hit increments one of the jets; off -> on -> flash.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Okay... I'm having a hard time expressing myself. All that I mean is that if you had your grooves designed in a pattern something like this, it would be a lot more effective if the particular disk it was on was spinning in a clockwise direction as viewed by the player.[quoted image]
Just avoid hidden swastikas. 
The three left lightning flashers aren't working on my machine.
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From the diagrams i can see that this is coming from Q1 and Q2
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I changed out Q1 and Q2 but i'm still not getting a connection from pin 6 to pin 7 on J4. I have full continuity in the wires and I have checked that i can power the bulbs on the lightning board from the jumper on there. So that leaves an issue on the Sound overlay solenoid board. All of the other connections from the board are working.
Could anyone point out a next step in testing?
Quoted from GRUMPY:You never will. Pin 7 should be @70 volts all the time. Pin 6 should be ground when active.
Yes, sorry, that's actually what i meant.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Connect a logic probe and place game in solenoid test for this solenoid and test the base of Q-3 for pulses.
Logic probe ordered and arriving on saturday.
Quoted from GRUMPY:You never will. Pin 7 should be @70 volts all the time. Pin 6 should be ground when active.
Connect a logic probe and place game in solenoid test for this solenoid and test the base of Q-3 for pulses.
Found my problem. The 4ohm 5W resistor has an internal break in it. No connection across it.
Damn those infinite resistance connections.
Quoted from tomm1963:Probably deeper than I will be going but one never knows
It doesn't happen until it does. Everyone has been there.
Quoted from Mageek:Tapered rubber goes here ….[quoted image]
I've never seen a machine with that one installed. It's not in the manual.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from mbaumle:It's in the game flyer:
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Oh wow. Interesting. I wonder why it didn't make the manual or many of the machines that i've played on.
Quoted from orangegsx:Normal, every time you plunge a new ball you get a free arrow. Except after you lock a ball
Now I have to go check this...
Quoted from zacaj:What's the three way combo?
I think it's one of the hardest shots out there. I've done it maybe 3 times and each time was a fluke.
Quoted from Blackbeard:I feel like there already is one. Draining on your ball after plunge without hitting a switch will give ball back.
Correct. It's just not timed.
Quoted from zacaj:Mine does the same, but I would have thought only the left one should?
Either cellar restarts the multiball.
adj36 controls the amount of time that you have to get in the cellar for the restart.
Quoted from John_In_WI:Thinking that after the first multi-ball, you have to start them via the ramp only.
No, this is for the restart of the multiball if you didn't get the jackpot on the storm multiball. The red light over the cellar starts flashing and you have the chance to get the jackpot again, now with 2 balls instead of 3.
Quoted from Blackbeard:I just had this same issue. It was annoying bc it wouldn't happen all the time. But when it happened, it would click a few times. The clicking was the little solenoid relay coil.
I corrected it by fiddling/bending the little actuator arm on the lift ramp switch. Problem went away.
I can't remember whether I had to bend it up or down, but that's where the issue is.
Interesting, mine occasional clicks like that and I have gotten the ramp error a couple times. I'll have to check that out. Thanks!
Quoted from robgo777:Greetings,
If you follow the TAF owner's thread by chance then you would have seen that I created a light board for the "THING" lamps that allow you to fit a ColorDMD LCD over top of them. I see that perhaps Whirlwind has the same board (D-12501 / 5768-12377-00 Rev A)? I do not own a Whirlwind but I am willing to create one of these boards for this machine if you guys want me to. I realize you don't have a ColorDMD to install and worry about, but perhaps your current board is missing or broken and you would like a replacement. Below you can find all the photos of the one I created for TAF. It fits flush with a black colored board to prevent any light from leaking through. I am producing two versions, one with Warm White 3000K leds and one with Cool White 5700K ones. The photos below show the Warm White version. I did tweak the shape from the ones shown to allow an easy plug and play installation even if you have a set of flipper fidelity or pinball pro speakers without having to remove them. There is some slight ghosting but it ins't very bad IMO. If you have one of the OCD LED boards installed it should eliminate any ghosting although I do not have one to test that theory.
I am estimating them to be in stock by the end of February, and should only be around $10-$20 ea plus shipping as I am not looking to make anything off them, just wanting to help others out.
Anyways, if you want one please PM me with the following:
-Subject: Earthshaker Light Board
-Full Mailing Address
-# of boards wanted
-Paypal Email Address
Once the boards are in production I will send you a paypal invoice for payment along with the total amount shipped. Any extras from the batch order will also go on my pinside shop if you prefer to wait until then. I do plan to keep these in stock as long as there is a demand for them so no worries on "Missing Out" from any kind of one time order.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Interest may increase with the Whirlwind software rewrite project moving again...
Quoted from RobDutch:Does anyone know how to make the spinning disks less noisy? (Apart from letting them spin slow or turning them off lol)
The poorly designed gears are just loud because they don't mesh well. Short of designing new gears, there's nothing that can be done.
Quoted from zacaj:Speaking of loud gears... Does anyone else's spinners make a loud squeak at high speed? About 1/3 of the time when my spinners Rev up to full speed I'll get a weird screech, and I can't figure out what could be causing it.
That might be the motor shaft vibrating.. Mine did that on the fan as well until i lubed it up.
Quoted from RobDutch:Thanks dozer1, mbaumle and Manimal for the messages and advice
Will leave my hammer in the toolbox!
Also I have the problem that my spinning disks are not flush with the playfield and not centered in the holes. They really slow the ball down and move the ball in a different direction when not spinning. I can only adjust them in hight right? That will not fix my problem.. Anyone advice on how to do this without a hammer?
After this is fixed, I can finally place my new disk decals![quoted image]
The disks are a pain to adjust. The height is the main adjustment, but if that's not solving your problem, then the location of the entire assembly needs to be moved. The only way that you can reliably do that is to fill the screw holes where it's attached to the playfield and then start new screws. The amount that you're going to be moving the assembly is so small, that the screws will try to go back into their original holes. On the one that I did, the layout of the disks in the mech is not 100% perfect with the playfield either. So there will be differing sized gaps even when done.
Quoted from Slash:Speaking of spinning disc decals. Where do people recommend buying them from. I bought some from Marco’s a while back and finally took them out at the weekend to put them on, but they feel really smooth with not much grip/texture at all????
I haven't found a supplier whose disks aren't garbage. They're all too smooth. I'm working on a solution.
IMG_20191009_195729 (resized).jpgQuoted from northerndude:Yeah, so I hammered off TWO - 3 Way Combos this evening. Big deal, I once went probably 8 months without one for sure, so pretty pumped
I usually end up losing the ball after a 3 way combo. The sound always catches me off guard and it so rarely happens.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:anybody got a pic of gi connector, mines been pulled out and burnt up not sure how wiring was.[quoted image]
On my mirco playfield refurb, the ball would fly through the pops and just like yours would nearly go SDTM. I ended up pulling a screw out of the end of the guide and it now bounces off the rubber and into the pops as intended.
Quoted from scampcamp:When you go through your Whirlwind or other system 11 etc game... do you usually replace the 26 pin cable.... even if it works ok?
Never had a need to. The only thing i've done is repinned and replaced any yellowed connectors.
Next step: disconnect the wires directly from the boards. Then plug the transformer back in. That'll isolate the run from the transformer to the boards. If that's good, then test attaching each connector individually to the board.
You're trying to narrow down exactly which circuit has the short.
Also, take a look at all of the fuses in the machine and make sure that someone didn't jumper them with a wire. It's odd that that a board fuse isn't blowing and the main fuse is.
Wait, before you check anything else, is this the fuse that's blowing?
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If so, that should be 8A, not 4A. That could be the whole reason it's blowing.
Quoted from gutz:8a for 120v, 4a for our higher voltage friends
Ah.. Good call. Didn't even notice he was in 220VAC land.
Quoted from orangegsx:So today, out of boredom I guess. I learned something new about a game I’ve been playing my whole life.
The white target is just there, not valuable in the game, no real need to shoot at it. So I just started hitting it. After seven times the 100k w/lit starts flashing. Every time you hit it after that it plays a different sound and both the 100k w/lit flasher and 100k bonus sweep flashes.
Maybe everyone already knew this but, I’ve never noticed. [quoted image]
Each hit lights up one of the pop bumpers, alternating between red and yellow. After they're all lit, then they start going to flash. When they're all flashing then the target is worth 100k.
We always called that target "the sizzler", due to the sound it made when maxxed out.
Quoted from Slash:I disconnected the ones you highlighted then slowly plugged each one back in. I suspected which one might cause the problem so left it until last, finally plugged that one in and it still didn’t blow???
Could this one have caused the initial problem? I think it’s J6 which I think goes to the GI? Not sure why it’s not blowing now tho?[quoted image]
Leave that one disconnected and try playing a game and see if there are any issues. That's the connector for the general illumination, running at 5.9V. The burnt connector is never a good sign, since that shows that there was previously an issue there. Do the pins at J6 look clean?
Did you double check all of your fuses to make sure that they aren't shorted?
Quoted from Coyote:... Your fuses BETTER be shorted, or else they're blown and need to be replaced.
Or they're shorted with a wire, or foil and they won't blow, putting extra load on the main fuse. 
Quoted from Slash:Managed to start a game so that’s a good sign.
The upper right flipper isn’t working so I will have to look into that. Lots needs to be tested and tweaked and adjusted which is to be expected but I’m having difficulty with the German menu so doing it systematically with the test function is proving difficult.
Noticed extra random lights coming on in the lamp test mode, eg one pop bumper light and a lock light would come on in addition to the insert being tested. Didn’t notice the flashers ever come on either.
I think my next best step is to try and sort this language setting issue.
The pins on J6 don’t actually look too bad. Maybe I can get away with a new connector.
Next thing to mess with are the connectors on the interconnect board with j6 attached again.
Double check the fuses there as well.
Quoted from Slash:The inline fuse in the cabinet is no longer blowing but I now keep blowing F7 on the Auxillary Power Board - 4amp slow blo.
Strangely the upper right flipper is giving a reading of about 150 ohms when at rest and I have the leads of the DMM on the lug with the thin wire and the other lead on the lug with the thick and thin wire. It should be around 5 is what I understand, the other 2 flippers are.
These are brand new flipper coils and I have done full rebuilds with new EOS switches etc etc?? Not sure if this is the cause of my fuse blowing but it’s something I need to fix??
okay, things are starting to make sense here.
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If you pull Fuse F5, and it's the upper right coil, then Fuse F7 should stop blowing.
Do you still have the old coil around? You could test that one for comparison as a sanity check.
Quoted from Slash:Pulled the F5 fuse and tried it but F7 still blew immediately.
Well that eliminates the two right flippers.
try it with F4, F5 and F6 out. So that will isolate the 50 VDC portion of the board with no load.
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If that works, put F6 in so that will test out the left flipper. If that's still good, pull F6 and put in F4 which will check if it's one of these:
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Quoted from Blackbeard:How do they sell a pf with a missing insert? What am i missing here??
The insert is there, but the text is missing. I'd be happy if he just sent out a piece of mylar to all of the buyers with the proper text printed on it.
Quoted from Slash:Oh and some English EPROMS's have done wonders - I can now understand what it tells me in test mode.
Imagine that 
Quoted from Jmckune:Do you all think I should replace my top drop target opto? While it is registering when it drops, it’s not a good register as it registers rapidly multiple times and the game doesn’t count it. If I push the opto with my finger to the right, it registers correctly. I initially thought this meant a bad solder connection but I added solder to the legs and there was the same condition present. It only registers properly and stays registered if I have sideways pressure to the right. Sound like a bad connection or just a misaligned u shaped opto?
I had to rebuild mine. The traces were shot from a bad repair and I put on a new header for good measure. The old one was extremely loose.
It sounds like the reset of the two are wired together which they should not be.
Quoted from Jmckune:Reseated some cables, pushed on chips, checked for shorted diodes/wires, did factory reset upon finding nothing. Now I haven’t used my meter so it’s possible one of them is broken internally but none were physically broken off the switch legs. Now we are back to nothing happening with the upper drop target in game but registering perfect in test. Does this still sound like a playfield issue or a board issue? Switch edge test correctly displays the drop target switch immediately in test mode upon being dropped. Tried various combinations of the other column switches with nothing appearing to mess with the drop target switch. Checked for row shorts. The only one I couldn’t get to was the left ramp score (top) as it was all the way in the back and would require removing both ramps. Nothing looked out of place on any of the column switches.
You need a magnet on a stick. Great for moving the ball around.
As for the board vs pf, try shorting the pins on the board and see if it works. If all works well there, it's the playfield. Otherwise it's the boards.
Sure, shorting pins is the same as closing a switch. Just make sure that you know what pins your doing. I like to use a wire that hooks to a pin and then with the other end i touch pins to close switches. You can do the same thing with a bulb. Touch wires hanging off a socket to two specific pins and the bulb will light in test mode.
Quoted from zacaj:Gonna give this a shot today...
[quoted image]
Another new disc?
Quoted from zene10:The ball should hit the pops. On my original playfield, this is what happened.
When I replaced it with a Mirco reproduction, the ball originally came out of the orbit without hitting the pops.
I believe I ended up slightly bending the ball guide so the orbit shot hits the pops.
I had to do the same thing.
Quoted from zacaj:Anyone had problems with the scoop not ejecting the first time?
About 1/10 times I go in the scoop, it'll register, play the eject warning sound, but seemingly not make any attempt to actually kick the ball. After a slight delay it'll play the warning sound again and eject successfully. Never had it take 3 times.
Once in a great while, but never 10%.
Quoted from rmf-pinball:What do you mean oak rails? I'm talking about the wood just around the spinners. My disks are nice and new, but, the wood around the opening is a bit beaten up. Unsure how to restore that.
I'm really not sure if there is a good way to do it. Anything that you apply on there, resin, wood filler, bondo, won't match well and would require sanding. I wouldn't think it's worth it unless you're doing a full restore including repainting the playfield.
Quoted from Jmckune:Big thanks to yaksplat for custom making me the diverter that my game was missing! It looks incredible! Need to go put it in
[quoted image]
Glad it made it !
Fun side note. That shaft is the old shaft from my digger that I restored a few years back and the ball guide is leftover from a scrapped Rollergames pf. So, your diverter is partially 55+ years old and partially slightly newer than your game.
WP_20140222_11_35_55_Pro (resized).jpgQuoted from InsideOutlane:Anyone in the SF-Bay / Sacramento / Central Valley area looking to sell their Whirlwind?
My wife and I have moved to a large enough place that we have enough room for a machine of our own! It's rough not being able to shop around at shows, as it seems they won't be happening for the foreseeable future. We've been looking at ads online, but it's hard to pull the trigger on something that we both haven't played. We know that we would love a Whirlwind though. I can promise that it would go to a loving and caring home!
Try using the PinMap. Filter it to your area and the machine WhirlWind. That'll show who has it within an acceptable distance. PM those people and sometimes that can trigger someone to sell that maybe wouldn't have.
Quoted from RobDutch:Is there a way to make the blower (topper) spin faster?
I can hardly feel the power of the wind..
Feels more like a breeze then a whirlwind
Help much appreciated!
Maybe be the motor is all gummed up and needs some oil or cleaning.
Quoted from ElectricLou:I lost à huge 16 pins connector in the dishwasher and I found a single brown/Gray wire that might fit.
Funny, it fell off the dishwasher on mine too. So much connector, so little wire.
it seems really dumb, but this is it
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Quoted from Magno:On a side note how do we turn off the knocker?
wire cutters.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Can’t you just turn it off in settings? Why cut wire??
I don't think so. If there's a molex, it's not original.
Quoted from RobDutch:Are there tricks to make the spinning disks more quiet?
I know you can change the settings
Already took them apart and cleaned them, but they are still super noisy.. (A deafening unpleasant noise that is unbearable to listen to with the glass off)
That's the sound of the imperfect teeth on the gears, meshing together. They weren't designed to be quiet, just to transfer the motion.
Quoted from PinballZZZ:Hi, since 2 weeks a Whirlwind owner . My first pin, so lots to learn...
I'm gonna replace the topper for a new one and looking for some lights (leds) underneath. I've seen some mods, but I'm curious how to connect those lights?
I want to use the light setup of the lightning at the back of the playfield. When the flashers are on, the Topper also flashes, etc... Just connect the wires to the lamp/light socket of that specific flasher? Or...?
Personally I'd just power an ardiuino off of the 5v line. Use the flashers as input and then design your own light show in the arduino program. You can trigger it differently, from different flashers.
Quoted from not4tilts:Not sure if this is a bug in the Whirlwind code (or at least a weakness) or problem with my third switch in the lock. I was playing a two person game with my daughter. She had two balls in the lock and I had credit for a single ball in the lock. I was up and I plunged the ball straight to my flipper without triggering any hit on the playfield and I hit it right up the ramp and into the lock. So there were three balls in the lock. It is possible that the third ball sitting there didn't register with the third ball switch because of the position of the third ball. If it would have registered some hit on the play field first - the ramp would have gone up. It did go up right away as soon as the switch on the ramp detected the ball but by that time it was too late.
The game then went into search mode and kicked all three balls out of the lock. My third switch in the lock is registering but like I said - maybe it was a position thing (where the ball was sitting). I never did get credit for the second ball locked.
You have a switch issue in the lock. Check the three switches and diodes.
Anytime you can lock a third ball or they get popped out early, there's something wrong with those switches.
Quoted from jhanley:The flat part comes from wear over time. It wears on the top so it should be up but doesnt need to be.
And if you buy a remade ramp, the gusset is narrow and will only fit a worn pin. I had to reuse the original gusset on mine.
IMG_20191015_073559 (resized).jpgQuoted from ccbiggsoo7:is this the way the post goes thru the guide though? nut on one side, flange base on the other side of the guide?
yes
i just used regular krylon after a really good cleaning with simple green.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/full-restore-of-a-whirlwind#post-5149898
Quoted from John_In_WI:Get a schematic. "Trying" to connect different colored wires to see if it works is never a good idea.
I want to give this more than one upvote
Quoted from Billy16:The lift bolt I just received from Marco worked perfectly.
I think there are two thicknesses in the gussets under the lift ramp. One that can handle a whole pin, and another than can only handle a half.
Quoted from Budman:They look great, way better than traditional. How do you think they would look with clear caps? So, colored LED rings with clear caps ?
That may not look right since there are times when the rings aren't lit.
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Lancaster, NY
