(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by transprtr4u
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#1018 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Good find. I recently made one for the Seattle Pinball Museum and have decided to make some more if anyone is interested. I won't be providing the hinge though so if your hinge is good I can probably help....see this post.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lift-ramp-needed#post-3114939

Hey! Not till you finish the Hurricane ramps mister!!

#1028 7 years ago

2nd that ^^ There actually isn't any red missing around the spinners, touchup the black and your done there... ANY gloss black will do, but use acrylic enamel.

1 week later
#1046 7 years ago

Hey guys, i'm looking for a CPR plastics set or any of 4 individual plastics if anyone can help me out... I'm looking for new, or possibly used, but only if they're absolutely minty.

Image4_(resized).pngImage4_(resized).png

#1048 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I just bought the middle one from a place in Europe, pinball center i think it was called. It was a good match and good quality.

They're in Germany, and they're out of them. I have bought there before... I'm really trying to avoid the huge shipping fees this go-round.

#1053 7 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Honestly, I'll say that when it comes to plastics for this machine you won't have a choice if you're looking right now. I have had to order from Germany, Australia and the UK for all of my plastics and my lift ramp. The only thing that you will definitely find in the States are the sling plastics. I saw a pretty big stack of them at a booth this weekend at Pinfest.

Yeah, the slings pop up regularly here and there, but the other 2 will be tough, I will go to AU or Europe if need be, just wanted to put feelers out here at home first. Somebody somewhere has a full set to sell, just gotta flush them out!

#1059 7 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Weh heh heeell lookie here!!!!!

Unfortunately NOT one that I need....

#1065 7 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Nope it's all still here.

I would have been interested in the insert decals, but you used the only one that I need...

#1067 7 years ago

What did that cost? and how long did it take? I always assumed that much work and craftsmanship would cost WAY more than a repro playfield!

#1079 7 years ago

OMG!!! But still, on ebay, that's a $3500 "fully shopped" machine!!

#1084 7 years ago

^^ Stop copying me...

2 weeks later
#1135 7 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

Does anyone know where to get a center radar decal? They seem to be sold out everywher.

Assuming you mean the compass overlay, Pinball Center in Germany has them.
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/insert-decals-overlays/3735/compass-overlay-for-whirlwind?c=2140

1 week later
#1152 7 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

has anyone found me the last plastic i need yet?????

Dude, you are on a nearly impossible mission here... I put an ad in the parts wanted section with a huge bribe for a full set and got a bite the same day. My ad sat there ignored for 2 weeks before I "showed em the money"!

#1155 7 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

I know where a full set is for $200+ shipping lol

Then you should buy it, or tell someone in need, where it is! Holding out is the total opposite of what this forum community is all about... And even more so, this specific club thread!

#1160 7 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

I thought everyone knew about that set by now. It's been relisted on Ebay at least 4 times. That's why I didn't mention where it was for sale. I would never hold out because having the entire set wouldn't benefit me at all.

Post a link to that please, because I dont see it on ebay and I have been following a "Whirlwind" search for months and nothing has popped up there either!

Quoted from sohchx:

Oh they see it, they just have no intention on including them with the playfields. It's already been asked of them twice since the playfield run was announced for pre order. It would obviously be common sense to release plastics with a playfield because there is always a demand. I just don't get their way of thinking.

CPR = Great product, but by far the dumbest business model of all time.

#1169 7 years ago

^ Nice work bro! Way to hang in there!

1 week later
#1206 7 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

someone sell me a whirlwind already. you guys hold onto these like grim death.

I'll never sell mine, but there's this turd... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-whirlwind-williams-1990-2002
Ive certainly seen much worse, and its overpriced, but he seems desperate and says its negotiable.

3 weeks later
#1233 7 years ago

Ahhh, when something old becomes new again... Looks fantastic bro!

1 week later
#1246 7 years ago

That is not the original setup, its custom. You can obviously do it with a sleeve post with a top stud and a hex spacer like in the pic, but the original setup is only a solid hex post all the way down to the PF, with a post sleeve rubber on it, sitting at the bottom. Obviously it has at least a 9/16" male thread at the bottom and a female tap on top. You should be able to find the part# in your manual and look it up on Marco.

Heres a pic I found on google, zoom in on that post in this pic and you'll see what I mean... This PF is 100% original, the one in your pic is a restored and modified one... and a helluva a good one too I might add!

playfieldtop_(resized).jpgplayfieldtop_(resized).jpg

-2
#1249 7 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Do you mean the post cover is custom? If so, yes. I have the same setup on my machine as what he's referencing but with a red Cliffy post sleeve. It's a German reimport though so that may be why.

No, the custom "2-piece" post setup used in the OP's pic, versus the one piece full hex post the game came with originally, like yours... The sleeve is supposed to be there.

-2
#1250 7 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

The hex post is 2": http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=358
The sleeve post (This has the #6 you need for top and #10 for the bottom. You "may" have to open up the hole for the #10: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1935
Then you just a #10 nylock nut, washer and a post sleeve of your choice. And a #6 PEMS screw and washer for the top should do what you need.

Sorry, but that is so NOT the way to do this... you want a standard post with a #8-32 threaded stud on the bottom and a #6-32 female thread on top. Then a 2" #6-32 hex post, male on one end and female on the other. And if you want it to look exactly like the OP's pic, don't forget a #6 flat washer for on top of the rubber sleeve. You could also go with ALL #8 stuff across the board, which I'm nearly positive is what was used in that pic.

#1253 7 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I'm going off what is offered from PL. Not what I would prefer. Or what you prefer either lol! Don't get me wrong, but I don't agree with you.

Suggesting someone to drill or otherwise modify their playfield unnecessarily to accommodate your obviously extremely limited knowledge of parts availability and sources is a VERY bad idea! And regardless of whether you agree with me or not, you clearly should not be giving repair advice to anyone, EVER!!! But hopefully this guy i'm just trying to help, figures that out on his own!

Now, to the guy who i'm trying to help, hopefully this very simple pic will explain what i'm talking about, and for certain others, illustrate the difference between the original ONE piece ramp support post, and the CUSTOM TWO piece ramp support post in the pic that was posted by the guy who i'm trying to help, that asked the question!!

The left "thing" is the ONE piece, hex post that was original to the game when it was manufactured, as Pat Lawlor intended.
The right "thing" is the TWO piece CUSTOM post that is in the picture that the guy i'm trying to help, POSTED! These are all the pieces you will need to replicate THAT style of ramp support post.
PLEASE NOTE that the hex posts I used in these pics are NOT the correct length, and used only for illustration purposes.

IMG_3384_(resized).JPGIMG_3384_(resized).JPG

#1260 7 years ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

My Whirlwind has the long hex post with the rubber on it.

As it should, as does mine. Ironically, in 1990 when I trained at Williams HQ to become a factory certified pinball technician, most of the training was done on a Whirlwind, and also Funhouse and BOP. But yet again, that experience and the 26 years since working on these machines has proven useless, as I clearly don't know shit... Speaking of teardowns, working on this as we speak, pics taken yesterday... Lord help me, how will I EVER get this back together?????

bk1_(resized).jpgbk1_(resized).jpg

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#1261 7 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

just got the stuff for a two piece setup from marco. 8/32 post with 6/32 stud on top and 2 inch hex post with 6/32 female thread on both ends.

That'll work, good job. Just beware that the stud on that post is more "snapoffable" the longer hex you attach to it, so be careful, this was the reason I suggested the female internal threaded post, but that should work out fine for you. Good luck, wish I could have been more help.

#1266 7 years ago

Wow, gorgeous! Nice work!! Now order new skyway ramp switch covers and decals (Marco has both in stock), and it'll be almost too minty perfect to play!

#1271 7 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Not sure what you are talking about. Skyway ramp switch covers? i have switch covers and decals on the sky ramp.

Sorry, I couldn't help but notice that a couple of the skyway ramp switch cover decals are in rough shape, you might get away with removing and replacing just the decals. Its just kindof a "finishing touch" that you missed... I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and you did a really fantastic job for a "first timer"!!

1 week later
#1283 7 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

Thank you!
So looks like mine is wired up correctly. I have a new switch I could solder on. Guess I could start there?

Dumb question, but are you sure you're toggling the middle switch correctly to navigate the menu's?

#1286 7 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

Yeah. I read the instructions and toggled and pressed about every combo I can think of. My advance button works so maybe I'll just start by resoldering my toggle button connections.

Your issue is clearly with the middle switch, either user error, or switch/wiring failure. You can also test the switch by manually shorting and unshorting the 2 pins with an aligator clip and see if you can go through the programming. If not, its a wiring issue. You may also try pulling power and batteries to do a hard reset. I had a Pinbot that was doing the same thing and all the programming switches magically started working again after a RAM-clear, and have worked fine ever since.

1 month later
#1309 7 years ago
Quoted from TBatti:

What are people using these days to protect the area around the discs from chipping?

My PF is mylared like most, so I just made a patch piece to go there... take a piece of copy paper and tape it over that area, use a pencil to rub an outline of your existing mylar, then cut a template for your mylar in one piece. After you apply, use an exacto to cut out the holes for the discs. Important advice, remove the spinning disc assembly BEFORE applying the mylar, trust me on this.
Now you have protection from the very edge of the disc holes to your existing mylar.

2 weeks later
#1314 7 years ago

If you launch and hit absolutely nothing before a center drain, it comes back, but the game makes no sound or anything on the display to acknowledge, it just doesn't advance the ball in play count... At least mine does!
This happens a lot when you make a weak plunge trying to hit the skill shot, and it just hooks straight down the middle.

1 month later
#1334 7 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Yes I am level. The ball pops out too hard and his the metal ball guide and usually is around a half inch off of the flipper by the time it gets there. I figure I need the ball to come out of the saucer with less force.

Are you sure you have the right coil in there?

#1338 7 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Ok it looks like the wrong coil is in there.
Currently there is AE 26-1500 when there should be an AE-23-800.
I'll order one and see if that fixes the issue.

YUP! lol, that'll fix the issue alright! And also prevent your mechanism from eventually exploding!

#1343 7 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

The correct coil is stronger than the currently installed coil.

Sorry, but that is incorrect. A 23-800 would be stronger than 23-1500 (no such coil), but not stronger than a 26-1500. The 26-1500 has a much higher resistance and is really only used in EM machines.

#1347 7 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

So the AE 23-800 is weaker than the AE 26-1500?

Yup. Makes logical sense above all... You have the wrong coil in there and its blasting the ball out, the coil that its supposed to have (and everyone else has) doesn't. Beyond that, it's ALWAYS a good choice to use the coil that the mfg designed it to use!

#1350 7 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Installed the proper coil and it solved the problem. Thanks for the help everyone.

Finally, someone actually listened to me... Thanks for the update, glad you got it sorted.

#1353 7 years ago
Quoted from shicketmaster:

My machine started scoring crazy. When I start a game, it is giving me points just for the ball going into the shooter lane and every time I hit the flipper buttons. I ran a switch test and nothing is stuck on. Also, when I hit the flipper buttons it just show the appropriate switch and nothing else switching on simultaneously. Any ideas?

There are 4N25 IC's on your interconnect board, 1 or more is bad.

3 weeks later
#1369 7 years ago
Quoted from smiley:

I don't think system 11 games give a message when the coin door is open, that only happens with WPC games.

That is correct. The interlock switch in system 11 games only locks out the programming switches when the coin door is closed. It has no other function.

1 month later
#1380 7 years ago
Quoted from codered9394:

Do they actually have a web page? Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. Everywhere I look there sold out.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/

#1383 7 years ago

I hope you found it! I sure hope you didn't PAY much of anything for this pin that needs almost everything!

#1390 7 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Problem was, during the buy I was distracted by the sellers numerous badass toys and instead of looking over the machine thoroughly I was busy looking over all of his other stuff.

Not an uncommon thing... Same happened to me when I bought my Road Show, except it was the guys 2 beautiful friendly dogs (boxers) that were the distraction. I didn't notice that the PF had some touchups done, the backglass was plexi and the translite has touchups (still searching for a new one), some GI wiring and hardware hacks, etc.
I still got a sweet deal tho, and the fixes were easy and not very expensive. But a new translite is proving absolutely impossible to find.

1 week later
#1404 7 years ago
Quoted from thunder001:

Having an issue with stand up target moving into cellar opening. I just got this pin. How can i get this target secure so it doesn't have side movement? I ordered a new one since the plastic is broken but need to understand how to secure it so it doesn't have side to side movement.

The new one wont move, that target is just worn out, thats why it moves.

#1412 7 years ago

I would totally buy that dude's partial WH20, but the shipping nightmare is so not worth it.

#1417 7 years ago
Quoted from codered9394:

Still looking for a display and the board behind the display.

What display and board are you referring too? Your display appears to be working in the pics?

#1420 7 years ago
Quoted from codered9394:

Only part of the display is working, missing segments on 2nd player and 4th player. The board that sits behind the display had a bunch of traces burned at one time, lot of a bad trace repairs. The board may very well be the problem with the display.

The MPU is not causing your display issue (or vice versa), if it was, you'd have nothing on the display. Are you opposed to converting to an LED display? or are you trying to stay original? I have a minty complete original display assembly that is in perfect condition and 100% razor sharp. The going rate ive seen around here is about $100, so I would sell it for that, plus $14 for Priority Mail shipping. PM me if interested.

1 week later
#1442 7 years ago
Quoted from thunder001:

Thanks for all the help. So i checked to make sure the switch is getting power and it seems to be getting the same amount as the same type on the ramp. I went into the switch testing tool and when i activate the switch it is not registered. Since i have power could this mean i just have a bad switch?

Short the 2 wires on the switch and see if it registers, if so, bad switch, of not, wiring issue.

#1448 7 years ago

Holy crap, you have overanalyzed the crap outta this bro! All you gotta do is adjust the deflection tab on the ball guide by bending it. Yours is very likely bent to far toward the top of the PF, the angle of it should be really close to this... Just keep bending it a tad until it deflects the ball toward the shooter everytime... That is its function!

123 (resized).jpg123 (resized).jpg

#1451 7 years ago

Umm, ive seen some moron hacks in my day, but, just wow... I'm not sure I understand some of your comments, but hat screw is NOT supposed to be there! The pic I posted is my T2, but the trough assy is the same in all Bally/Williams multiball pins until 1993. All the trough parts are available, and if its your ball guide that is broken, its here...
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-8623

PS. I sure as hell hope you were kidding about reusing that drywall screw in your new CPR playfield!!!!!

#1455 7 years ago

Well, this isn't the worst hack i've ever seen, it just appears that someone chopped the connectors off of another game and spliced the wires. The number of positions on the connectors isnt right, but as long as the wires are on the correct pins on the interconnect board, it should work fine.

IMG_3774.JPGIMG_3774.JPG

IMG_3775.JPGIMG_3775.JPG

2 weeks later
#1462 7 years ago
Quoted from codered9394:

Wondering if any one can supply me with the spinner on whirlwind. Marco and bay doesn't seem to carry it. Mine looks like a jack hammer been beating on one end. If anybody knows where one is I would like it

Unobtainium... but your timing is good, this doesnt happen very often.... make sure you're sitting down... ebay.com link: Williams whirlwind pinball machine spinners n o s

2 weeks later
#1492 6 years ago
Quoted from toberlindacher:

I'm putting my ww together which was missing the big ramp. I'm needing to find the little mounting piece that goes on the wood rail that attaches to the metal outhole from the exit of the ramp. It is circled in the following pic. Anyone know where to source one of these?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17838-1

1 month later
#1527 6 years ago
Quoted from tylery85:

zerbam are you taking about the plastic over the skill shot targets? If so I think marcos has that one as a stand-alone product as well

Marco does have it, but you have to dig for it, it wont show up in a game search for some reason...
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1006-574-6

2 weeks later
#1547 6 years ago
Quoted from smokedog:

Anyone else with some estimates?

My suggestion would be to fix the cabinet before trying to sell it, that's going to be your deal-breaker or what will cause you to lose your ass on it. Most people will not spend top-end money for a game when they have a ton of work to do and more money to spend to finish your project. As is, maybe $3K.

2 weeks later
#1575 6 years ago
Quoted from nightsearcher:

My original fan blows so hard, I have to shut it off in the winter so people will play it

same here, but I dont shut it off, I just listen to a lot of complaining, and its fun watching them trying to use the 5 D's of dodgeball while playing! lol

1 week later
#1589 6 years ago
Quoted from codered9394:

Can anyone tell me if the backbox lights are suppose to flash during gameplay or attract mode.

No, your lights are working correctly.

#1591 6 years ago

One thing I should have mentioned... Like Earthshaker!, Williams put blinking bulbs in several of the sockets, like behind the face in the cloud, etc. But I suspect in your case, like most others, those bulbs were replaced with regular 44's as they burned out over the years. Luckily Comet makes a blinking LED that replaces the original incondescent blinker effect perfectly (slow blinking) when you convert to LED's.

3 weeks later
#1652 6 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Now the question: to add plastics or not?

Always YES!

#1661 6 years ago
Quoted from BriPin:

I'm not in the club yet but preordered a playfield anyway and got my notification today. I looked at the playfield photos and noticed this line in the art. Is this on the original playfields as well, an optical illusion or a defect in the printing or art?

Post 1649 on the previous page, shows a PF that one guy has recieved, that line in the gradient all the way across the PF is highly visible in the photo. Very disappointing how CPR's quality of most of thier recently released products is very poor, yet still quite expensive. No way in hell i'd drop $850 for this PF, that line would drive me nuts, piss me off, and be very distracting everytime I played the game. That kind of $ would be much better spent on a restoration of my original PF. Luckily my PF is nice and not in need of a swap or restoration!!

#1665 6 years ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

Yes it is there and noticeable if you look at it - I don't feel it really sticks out unless you are looking for it.

That would be the issue for me, because I know its there, i'll notice the shit out of it every time I play! Especially the lines between the slings. I'm one of those meticulous, perfectionist type pain-in-the-ass guys... When it comes to stuff like this, i'm my own worst enemy, my eyes and attention are obsessively drawn to imperfections.

This is just the latest QC failure by CPR, this should have been caught and corrected before these ever went into production. These PF's should be sold at significant discount as the new "Brown" grade. Give me 10 mins alone with one of these PF's. I guarantee you that I can find even more issues with it.

#1669 6 years ago
Quoted from herg:

I don't know much about how the silkscreening of halftones works, but it looks like the uneven dots happen at the halfway transition. Is this done in two steps? Dark blue dots on a light blue background for the bottom half, then light blue dots on a dark blue background for the upper half? This is just a guess from a guy who does not know printing techniques.

The blue is the same from top to bottom, the gradient is done with an overlay of black dots and other odd shapes that vary in size and diameter. This creates the visual illusion of a color gradient when you're dealing with an 8-24 color pallet.
The reason that line is so pronounced on this PF, is because they went from a course to a fine dot in one line, instead of a gradual transition of the dot size.

#1674 6 years ago

"Didn't really notice it until you pointed it out."
Because they have no real quality control.

"Not a flaw, just the way the dither printed. Exactly what is on the film(s)."
Yes, it is a flaw. So obviously the films are flawed.

"They end and start ever so slightly different"
True, but not at that point they don't!

"Yes, every single playfield is the same."
Great, an entire production run of "blem's"!

1 week later
#1708 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead306:

Does anyone have a spare switch 5647-12073-33? I'm having trouble ordering one online! Thanks.

Maybe because I dont think that's a valid part number. Perhaps a description and location of this switch you seek?

2 weeks later
#1759 6 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I'm looking for a Whirlwind. I have a BTTF for trade. PM me if interested.

Just a suggestion, but if you want to generate much interest in this deal, you may want to at least disclose what country you live in...

#1784 6 years ago

What he said ^^^

Quoted from Skyemont:

Not sure I understand your comment??? My profile states, I live in Midlothian, VA. What country do you think that's in?

#1792 6 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Sorry guys. I did not realize that. Just fixed it.

Quoted from jmountjoy111:

Lol. No need to apologize, it didn't matter to me one way or the other. It shows up now though.

I'll take it, and I accept it.

2 months later
#1849 6 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Hey all, joined the club this weekend!! Super pumped. I have a switch problem for the single drop target switch #26. I attached a pic, can anyone tell me if it’s wired up correct? I can’t see behind it very well. The metal bar for it looks weird to me.

Welcome,
First things first... The pics are not of your drop target switch, that is the ramp lifting solenoid "ramp down" switch... And the switch actuator is not correct, but it appears to be functional. The wire connections and diode are correct. The drop target switch is an opto on a circuit board, and it probably just needs a cleaning with a q-tip and alcohol.

#1859 6 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

I am starting to think this is not the original mech. It looks nothing like the one in the manual.

You are correct, but nowhere near the worst hack ive seen. Seems like a lot of effort to avoid just buying the proper inexpensive link. But i'll bet your ramp is pretty beat up where the diverter hits it. The amazing thing is how the diverter returned to home position with no spring on the plunger!

1 week later
#1864 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead306:

What plunger spring is used in whirlwind? The one that came in mine seems weak. It did have a data east shooter rod in it too so I'm sure the spring is wrong. I couldn't really find it in the manual. I put a red one in and it almost seems too powerful.

Red is the highest tension available. You either want silver (low) or white (med-low).

#1866 6 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

Will that be strong enough to plunge the ramp skill shot?

The skill shot is the drop targets.

2 weeks later
#1917 6 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Thanks! I have heard mixed things.

Anyone who told you that plastic protectors on ANY pin was a BAD idea... is a f'n retard.

2 months later
#2008 6 years ago
Quoted from CollinT:

Does anyone know where to get the blue display?

I've had nothing but good luck buying Rottendog products from these guys... Including blue displays for my WW & ES. You want DIS240B.
http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/RotDogBoards.html

#2011 6 years ago

IMG_4299[1] (resized).JPGIMG_4299[1] (resized).JPG

IMG_4303 (resized).JPGIMG_4303 (resized).JPG

3 months later
#2234 5 years ago
Quoted from bailorgana:

What do you guys think and did you have to remove the resistors on yours???

Kits are dumb, buy bulbs in bulk from Comet, its cheaper, and the bulbs are better.
No, there's no resistors to remove, this is the modification you need to do for LED flashers to work properly on a System 11 B/C game... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-led-flashers-to-system-11-games

1 month later
#2309 5 years ago
Quoted from Phesson:

Can the arm be replaced without changing out the whole kicker assembly?

Yes. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-12664
I am also curious if someone put a spacer or perhaps washers between the mounting bracket and the underside of the playfield... Otherwise you clearly have the wrong arm, bracket, or complete assembly in there.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17810
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-12665

#2316 5 years ago
Quoted from Phesson:

When I checked the sling last night I noticed it was kicking much harder than the left side. There are no washers but the coils are different from one side to another. The left is an AE-26-1500. The right side, my problem side is an AE-26-1200 which is the wrong coil per the manual. I have found a replacement at marco.

While you should absolutely replace with the correct coil, having a stronger coil in there will not cause the arm to shred the rubber, nor will having a rubber that is too short and tight. The problem is the surface of the nylon head on the arm that is contacting the rubber.
No matter how hard, or how many times you hit it, you can't cut a car tire in half with a baseball bat.

1 week later
#2326 5 years ago

Dude, i'm sorry, but if you cant see a switch bracket with no switch on it, and wires hanging next to it, attached to nothing, and a cutout that is clearly long enough for 3 switch actuators, but only has 2 visible... And you still have to ask...

Quoted from TBatti:

I don't understand what is happening? Is there actually 3 switches?

You shouldn't be working on your own pins, call a local tech to help you, before you blow something up.

#2329 5 years ago
Quoted from TBatti:

Yes I'm still learning and missed that on the initial view. The problem was the game was working perfectly without it which caused the confusion. I am asking for techs help that I know but I WANT to learn.

Yea, the game will work fine, until you lock the 3rd ball and the game goes into ball-seek mode, then kicks all the balls out. But it will cause logic problems because the game doesnt know you are in multiball mode, and you dont get a jackpot shot!
I'm not trying to beat you up here bro, but identifying this issue ranks up there with "is the game plugged in?" and "is the power turned on?".
When I see profile basics that say you've been on pinside for over 3 years, you own 6 pins, and you couldn't troubleshoot this one on your own?? That's what we call a "wtf!?"! Hence my comment...

Grab one of these and simply, but carefully bend the actuator to meet your needs!
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-18
You're gonna need a couple of these too... Dont overtighten!
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4002-01105-08

2 months later
#2433 5 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Sooooo, OMG I just made my own ramp flap from scratch!! Pretty excited.

Great work! I love to see guys doing things the right way... Now we just need to get you the proper rivets and press!

11 months later
#3149 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Tearing mine down now, and all the posts around the pops are lock tited. Will try a hair drier first, then soldering iron, and report back

Wow, amazing that there are any Lawlor (Williams) games out there with loctite still on the posts... That means your game has NEVER been properly, fully shopped in 30 years?!! Its time for some new T-nuts and posts anyway... Just snap em off!

1 year later
#4029 3 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Has anyone else had trouble painting their topper? I cleaned mine off and sprayed some gloss white on it. It got the weird cracked look in a few areas. Any idea what to do about it? Sand it down and use a different primer?[quoted image]

Typically that is caused by water in or under the paint. Condensation inside a rattle can, if its been stored in a humid space and/or cold temps.

1 month later
#4058 3 years ago
Quoted from Mahoyvan:

Just ordered the center post for my game. Is this thing supposed to sit flush, or did I get the wrong one!?
[quoted image]

Well that makes no sense! whats preventing the post from going through the hole?!? If you buried the nut on the threads and that's a gap that's left over, put a few washers underneath.

#4067 3 years ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

If it hits a T-nut, then tap the T-nut out and just use a washer and nylon nut on the bottom side, easy and done.

Yes, this. Mine does not have a T-nut, it has the washer and nylock nut, and it came that way from the factory. I suspect someone added the T-nut on yours, its not supposed to be there. My Earthshaker however, does have the hex base post and T-nut style post... The only time Williams used the hex-base post and T-nut style, is if there's an assembly under the PF that mounts directly under that post (usually a flipper assy), and Whirlwind does not.
The post you bought is the correct one, its not supposed to have the hex-base, but it cant be used with a T-nut. Alternately, if you use the post WITH a hex at the base, you HAVE to use a T-nut.

The shaft of the post (you bought) with the round base is longer, so that it protrudes far enough through the PF, so you can get the washer & nut on the back.

1 month later
#4141 3 years ago
Quoted from wawhite92025:

Does someone have the answer to this post? I have the same question. Are the two small clouds part of the factory plastics with a designated location, and where is the clear plastic with the 5 holes supposed to be used?
Thank you.

You should repost the pics or mention the post#, nobody's gonna dig through this entire thread looking for whatever you're talking about.

3 months later
#4246 2 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Does anyone know if a WPC lockdown bar receiver will work on this game?

No, the slots for the bar tabs are positioned differently. Clean yours up the best you can, and get one of these...
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=133

7 months later
#4423 2 years ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Sorry if this has been answered in here previously, but why does WW have 2 rubbers on everything? Seems more like an aesthetic decision vs an engineering one.

Most of those rubbers have an unusually long span between posts, so if the ball hits in the middle with enough force, it can sneak under the rubber... The double rubber eliminates that issue.
This was more of a thing with the old-school polyester rubber, if you use Titan or Superband urathane rubber, its not such of an issue. For added insurance, you can use a rubber that is 1/4" shorter than spec. I have converted several locations (WW, ES & RS) to a single star post and rubber, not a single ball has ever slipped under!

2 months later
#4470 1 year ago
Quoted from Bman:

Hi all, long time member, but I picked up another Whirlwind for a family member, but it is missing the Wheel drive Assembly (the whole unit). So I was wondering if anyone had one for sale?

Put an ad in the parts wanted section, that's your best bet...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/pinball-parts-wanted

#4472 1 year ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Joined the club today! Went to buy a Diner and brought home a WW instead for a bit less money.

Congrats! Looks like you also need to build the topper?

1 week later
#4485 1 year ago

There's this... i've done this to all my system 11 games...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-led-flashers-to-system-11-games

1 week later
#4493 1 year ago
Quoted from Caper:

Love my DP Whirlwind and added some custom mods, for those looking for any ideas to dress up your machine a little.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Beautiful game!! The little tornado's are kinda cool, I assume you hand-made those?

#4499 1 year ago
Quoted from Caper:

Yes, they were 3D printed and hand painted by a lady off of Etsy.

Clever idea!

3 weeks later
#4510 1 year ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

That makes sense, so I would replace the sub-microswitches? Looks like Pinball Life has it but Marco does not.

Marco has tons of them, often with the actuator... do a search for "sub mini".
This is a perfectly good one if you can reuse your existing actuators, just swap it onto the switch...
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-08

#4512 1 year ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

As noted above, you can also just buy the switch for less money and swap the wire form over.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-00
I keep a few of these on hand now. I need to break down and just buy some new diodes, but they are not difficult to swap over as well to a new switch.

I always buy switches that have a common or universal customizable actuator with it, so I end up with spares of those too... Worth the extra buck.

1 week later
#4529 1 year ago
Quoted from Phesson:

I am having a problem with my thunder flashers not flashing when the game starts. The GI lamps on that board do come on normally. The connectors look good and the solder on the pins look good. I haven’t been able to find what controls the lamp board.
Any suggestion on where to check for what’s causing my problem?

Those flashers are all separate, so if none work, its something common to all of them. That almost always leads to a connector, broken wire or header pin problem.
If by chance you put LED's in there, and then they stopped working, check the polarity.
Just because a solder joint "looks good", doesnt mean it is... Hairline cracks are usually not visible, reflow the solder on all pins and report back.

#4533 1 year ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Stick incandescents back in and I bet they work

Nonsense.

#4547 1 year ago

Nonsense will win.

Ive had LED flashers in mine for years and they all work, everytime, all the time. From an electronic theory standpoint, the only way LED's wouldn't work, is if they were all wired together in series, and they aren't.

So, nonsense.

#4551 1 year ago
Quoted from Phesson:

All I know is my thunder flashers were dead and hopefully with the rite bulbs they will work correctly.
Sorry to flood the forum with Nonsense but thanks for the help.

Dude, its not you! "Nonsense" was given to the british claim that incandescent's would magically work where LED flashers would not!

Quoted from John_In_WI:

Wondering how a 555 even stays in the socket for the 906. Aren't the 906 significantly bigger?

The wedge portion on 906 & 555 bulbs are identical, the twist sockets are slightly different, strictly for identification.
906 is a 12v bulb, 555 is a 5v bulb, NOT interchangeable!!

1 month later
#4570 1 year ago
Quoted from trecemaneras:

I’ve been getting weird behavior from my 1-bank drop target. For a while, it would just stay dropped game after game, and here and there it would randomly pop back up, until it got knocked back down, at which point it would stay down for another extended period of time.
I took a q-tip and alcohol and cleaned the opto sensor a couple weeks ago, and immediately after it worked perfectly.
However, a few days later, it started getting flakey again. Now it doesn’t stay down game after game, but if it doesn’t immediately reset after getting knocked down as it should, then it seems to require something happening in the game to wake up and reset itself - sometimes hitting the orbits does it. Sometimes raising or lowering the ramp. Sometimes draining the ball does it too.
Any idea what’s going on? Did I not clean it fully? Do I need to replace something?
TIA

Take a look at the rules and game settings, it sounds like its working correctly now to me. The drop target doesnt always instantly reset everytime you hit it, in some modes, its supposed to stay down until you earn it to reset.

5 months later
#4874 1 year ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

Anybody have a proper location mapping of the lightbulbs that go into the backbox behind the translite. Brother in law bought a beat up game and we aren’t even sure if the bulbs are right. Manual offers no help

455's are blinkers, there are no flashers.

Blink Bulb Locations.jpgBlink Bulb Locations.jpg
2 months later
-1
#4985 10 months ago

I think all the efforts to create a 2.0 are awesome! No need to bash on anyone, if you're not into it, keep your shitty opinions to yourself and don't buy it!
Nobody here cares about anyone else's opinion on something they have never seen, bought or played!!
I'm a hardcore retro guy, There's no 2.0 that I would ever buy, but I still give creative and engineering credit where its damn-well due!!

PS. Upvoted the creator back to 0!

1 week later
#5016 10 months ago
Quoted from Johnbeatle:

This target is loose and I have to adjust it every few games. I looked on Marco and didn't see it. Any idea where I can purchase a replacement?
[quoted image]

This one... https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6
Or the heavy-duty one... https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R

7 months later
#5232 83 days ago
Quoted from Coolpinballdino:

Not sure if any Whirlwind owner would be interested, but I have the mechanism for the spinning disc's. Shoot me an offer trying to clean my game room up.
[quoted image][quoted image]

This is absolutely NOT the gear mech for a Whirlwind!

3 weeks later
#5268 56 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

We're trying to figure out where these 3 new plastics go that came with the kit. Any ideas? Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

The 2 clouds are extras that you can put anywhere you like, or not at all. I put one on the right wireform ramp support.
The clear piece is not part of the OEM kit, so its probably a ramp cover or something to stop stuck balls somewhere that was added by CPR.

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