(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!

By mof

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 3,152 posts
  • 333 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 25 minutes ago by zacaj
  • Topic is favorited by 157 Pinsiders


Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 861 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20191018_063432 (resized).jpg
20191017_204338 (resized).jpg
20191017_192024 (resized).jpg
20191016_195936 (resized).jpg
4F7B080B-AADC-4EA7-9A16-015DCF0D4D10 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20191015_073707 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191015_073559 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191014_201643 (resized).jpg
20191014_191353 (resized).jpg
4Z764_AS02 (resized).jpg
8A152425-B0C4-431F-BFB5-16694A3C91A4 (resized).jpeg
F00433A1-68D8-4978-AEFF-11A92AB9A6BC (resized).jpeg
B087B180-3638-4F59-8EE1-75094D55CDF7 (resized).jpeg
8090708D-74F7-4D0C-A902-2863478FEA33 (resized).jpeg
20191013_182346 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider northerndude.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#1847 1 year ago

Hey all, joined the club this weekend!! Super pumped. I have a switch problem for the single drop target switch #26. I attached a pic, can anyone tell me if it’s wired up correctly??
Thanks in advance!!

Btw, great thread, it took me two evenings and a 1/2 day at work to read all 30+ pages, seems like a great Whirlwind community!


6C85495D-703F-4707-B11E-3B1179A5AD9B (resized).jpeg

#1850 1 year ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

First things first... The pics are not of your drop target switch, that is the ramp lifting solenoid "ramp down" switch... And the switch actuator is not correct, but it appears to be functional. The wire connections and diode are correct. The drop target switch is an opto on a circuit board, and it probably just needs a cleaning with a q-tip and alcohol.

Thanks, I pulled the connector and gave it a swap and cleaning and it appears the single drop is functioning correctly.

I HAVE 2 MORE questions for you all though now.

1. Anyone know of the best quality cabinet decals/wrap for WW? My cabinet is in too rough a shape for a repaint or touch up.

2. Is the three-way combo one of the most gratifying shots or what?? nailed my first at lunch today, i'm going to be chasing that feeling again and again, lol

#1853 1 year ago

Ok, similar trouble again. I don’t have a switch error anymore. My drop target will not reset at all. Not when a new game starts or during a game if you get Extra Ball, you basically cannot get one because it won’t come up.

I’ve tested voltages across pins on opti, done solenoid test and it works perfect, there was a shitty repair done on a pin on a male pin on opti, but I re-shitty repaired it, all voltages test across all pins, maybe just a bad board now? I see they are $26 to replace but out of stock on Marco.

1 month later
#1947 1 year ago

Hey all, which spinner assembly for WW is on marco? there is a few and I searched the spinner assembly from the manual, but don't know which one for sure, mine effin' blew up the other day! Parts came flying down the PF during gameplay

#1949 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Do you mean the spinner disc unit?
I hit a little snag with my repopulation. Does anyone know what sized post goes where? The pics I took with a ruler are total rubbish. Each of these little round guys is just a hair smaller than the next. Any help would be much appreciated.

Yes, the spinner square with wireform from top left spinner (the only one)

1 month later
#1989 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Sort of off-topic, but my son’s friend used our WW and our basement to make a video for a contest he’s entering. I freaked out a little when I first saw it, to be honest...you’ll see why. Fortunately, no harm done. Warning: contains some salty mafia-type language.
» YouTube video

People still smoke in the house????

Cool video non the less

1 week later
#2017 1 year ago
Quoted from zh2oson:

Thanks nerdygrrl !
Ultimately, I'd love to have a Earthshaker next to the Whirlwind so having them both set up with more traditional backglasses would be cool. Of course, as I mentioned, the draw for me is also to get the "C" logo on the hat.

Just reverse engineer what Williams did 30 years ago and make a C sticker!

#2026 1 year ago
Quoted from zerbam:

still trying to establish a date of manufacture for my whirlwind so that I can replace the sticker on the back of the machine........my serial #331001 .........is anyone close to that serial #

Sniff around here....


#2044 1 year ago

Well......mines a little difficult.

*edit - Nice frickin' paint hey?? That's my next project! Already have all cabinet artwork in hand, just need to finish off another project and start sanding, filling, sanding, painting, etc....

F170F820-E8C4-4B99-8FF4-C0075DEFC58C (resized).jpeg
DD35803B-5BB5-40A8-9287-6FE6B9CF7BDB (resized).jpeg

1 month later
#2142 1 year ago

I am going to do this with mine soon, have all the parts in hand, just need to start the refurb on my WW and get it done at the same time.

Going to use the same schematic as post #20 in this thread


Should lower the overall volume but keep some depth to it.

#2145 1 year ago

Sorry if this has been posted but if in the market - CPR has big discount on their "seconds" backglasses due to a magenta hue in the blue.

Reg Price: $239.00 USD
Clearance Price: $139.00 USD

1 week later
#2151 1 year ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Hello everyone, I just installed Game Blades on my Whirlwind. I HIGHLY suggest you use the Soapy water spray method, ESPECIALLY on system 11 games with very minimal side clearance. Just put a drop of soap in a spray bottle with water and spray the back of the Game Blade. With the playfield up, slide the Game Blade into position. The soapy water allows you to readjust over and over until you get it into position. Make sure you you spray it quite a bit because if it drys on you, it’s tougher to adjust. Honestly, this method was very easy with minimal water drips. I recommend it for all game Installs. Just wipe up any water drips with a towel and your done.

Looks great

#2160 1 year ago

Mine is chipped at the left cellar entrance. I bought the pin with cliffys that were not yet installed, I was waiting to do the job during some other work, wish I had

#2162 1 year ago

not the newest run, but the previous run I believe maybe if that makes sense?, I think the PF swap was done over a year ago. I got a hold of the pin in Nov.

#2165 1 year ago

Here’s mine.

6DF903D2-366E-48AE-9710-6B4BFE194BF6 (resized).jpeg

#2168 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Wowzer, I am so sorry. That sucks.

My bad, I guess I should have put those cliffys on the day I got the pin.

3 weeks later
#2181 1 year ago
Quoted from bailorgana:

Hey all.
New club member. Usual broken plastics. Don't really want to order a full set. Almost all of the plastic is good, including the slings.
I ordered cliffy's and protectors, but buying a full set seems like a waste. I really only need like 5-6 new pieces.

Also, check in with completist he had a populated PF that may have what you need

#2187 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I can’t even break 10M most games and my highest score is only 23M. I either really suck or I’m not playing it right.

I’m in the same boat man, I am scoring the exact same as you. I need to research and rethink how I play

#2192 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

orangegsx: thanks for the pointers. I also watched Bowen video last night to pick up some extra strategy nuggets. I usually don’t watch them because a) I like to try and figure out games myself, and b) watching him makes me realize how poor of a player I am, but I digress. Played a couple of warmup games this morning and I was able to put up 15M score. Game is still tough and gotta hit that side ramp consistently, for sure. Now back to playing to see if I can top my all time best of 21M....

I don't struggle to hit the ramp too bad, still a tough one for me, BUT I struggle to get the ball ALL the way around it, I'm 50/50 I bet having to roll back down on me

#2195 1 year ago

If you got that for 200 bucks, then you have room to do anything you want to it and still be ahead!! Congrats

3 weeks later
#2229 1 year ago

Less power strain on your boards/connectors if you have led's

#2231 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Said differently, if you DO want to keep your game original, replacing both the GO connector and the header pins is a must. I think the reason so many system 11 pins are dark is that people don't do this.

Yup, I have now replaced a handful of brown, dried out IDE connectors on a couple pins, You'll be missing 1/2 the backbox GI, or chunks of lights (lots of high res. opens on those cranky old IDE connectors)

1 week later
#2243 1 year ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

Project overkill going on.... wonder what a painted power supply would look like?

Use some heat resistant paint?

#2247 1 year ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

Mine is fully restored. Now and before restoration.

Looks awesome!!!!

1 week later
#2268 1 year ago

If you do have schematics, use a multimeter to look for voltage, takes away guessing if this or that takes away lighting, also, ohm out all of your fuses to make sure they are all good.

2 months later
#2362 1 year ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Got a nice whirlwind I will be listening soon. Southeastern Wisconsin - PM if interested.

I like to listen to my WW also!

1 week later
#2368 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Here’s mine.

[quoted image]

Finally installed the Cellar cliffys today. Fairly easy, not much to remove and re-install

45232F34-1672-42D9-A4FC-F6F6BF855893 (resized).jpeg
2 weeks later
#2390 1 year ago
Quoted from TBatti:

Yes this is what mine does. Full plunge should wrap around to the upper flipper. I've seen some go partially up the ramp which is not right.

Nice call, mines out also!
Half way up ramp then rolls back down.

I’ll need to adjust also, thx for the info folks!

#2399 12 months ago

Hey all, looking for some direction.
My ramp lift assembly broke, well, only the very bottom entrance flap broke. The actual metal broke, the plastic is ok. Can a new flap be riveted on? I don't know the way to rivet the flush style rivets, I think it's a hammer and bang it flat with those style?


I see these are out of stock, and don't know quite what to do.


#2402 12 months ago

I’m a screw up, delete post please

2 weeks later
#2428 11 months ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

When some one tells you a pin was "fully restored", this is what it should mean:
Massive photo dump:
I just finished up on this pin and will have it at the Nashville expo this weekend.

I have a ball hop to the flipper on the left return lane also, soooo annoying. I have adjusted a bit but Need to do a bit more here.

#2430 11 months ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Joined the club with a clean and beautiful example.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]


#2432 11 months ago

Sooooo, OMG I just made my own ramp flap from scratch!! Pretty excited. After not being able to find/source the correct flap, there is shitloads on Marco, but you’d never know the distance between holes and etc. So I bought two sheets of ramp flap steel. The tough part was I checked and the thinner steel it said was for late 70’s/80’s stern etc. And the thicker for newer, so I bought the thicker and it was thicker than he original on the flap, so we’ll see how that goes. It was a little scary as you can see the original hole on the right side of the lexan piece is very close to the edge, wiuld have been nice if 1/8 closer to middle

E99FAE73-65F5-4E5D-9AF0-856690909139 (resized).jpegA134E86E-B5BD-4DC6-B40A-666082377E7E (resized).jpeg8A0EBA73-61FF-4A3A-A502-C424105F590E (resized).jpeg31A8656F-1B98-4C50-93A8-86588695AD0A (resized).jpeg

#2441 11 months ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Have a technical question: Every once in a while the ball drains and the game does not recognize it. However, the music cuts out as if it is going to prepare for the next ball but it just stays in the through without ejecting the next ball. Switches appear to be fine, no errors on start up. Also, sometimes the game says its missing a ball and after I hit the start a few times, the game starts. I think its the board, any thoughts?

DUDE, was just gonna post, I have the same problem. Sometimes on start up says missing ball. Game works near perfect but when a ball drains it doesn't recognize. I have to hit a flipper button o once or twice and it finished the ball bonuses and etc.

#2444 11 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

I had the same exact issue a few months ago on my Earthshaker. Trough switches tested fine, so I ruled them out initially.
However, it turned out to be a flaky trough switch anyway. I honestly just replaced all of them, even though it was #3 that was bad. Fixed the problem right up and the game has been perfect since. The switches are cheap enough. Just replace them all, and it should resolve the issue.
The reason the game sounds like it ends the ball, but doesn't, is because the outhole switch isn't what tells the game's software the ball has actually ended. It's the trough switch that does that.

Thx, I'll check the switch and diode. I might have a spare or two that have been scrounged from another pin.

#2449 11 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

how do you replace rivets? what kind of press?

I was able to use a regular rivet gun with steel rivets, 1/8" wide BUT they were the kind of rivet that the back "ball" that pulls in pops right off. It left a flush on both sides rivet that looks very professional, other than the holes in the rivet, you would never know they are different.

I just used the same style rivet with a longer to attach the switches to the "L" bracket for my Fish Tales slingshot switches. Worked like a charm also

3 weeks later
#2472 10 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

To cliffy or not? I have the full set of cliffy’s and the two cellar holes are very minimally worn (HUO game). Will the cliffys cause more damage than prevent? In other games, the cliffys make the shots harder to hit. What about on Whirlwind? Any playing difference?

Zero difference in gameplay for mine. I thought since there was that small raise in height it would make a difference, but no.
I needed cliffys on mine since it was a CPR replacement and the clear has chipped away at the cellar entrance. I had pics posted a ways back.

#2486 10 months ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

Does your left flipper have ball hop? Both the original playfield and my replacement playfield, the positioning of the left flipper creates a gap on from the return lane and thus ball hop. Shots off the left flipper are hard to be consistent with.

Absolutely I have left lane ball hop, frustrating!

I have put a toothpick inside the screw hole in PF to wedge the screw over a bit to eliminate, it works fantastic for a while, then slowly migrated back to original position. Hard to get into ramp rhythm when the ball hop is there.

2 weeks later
#2496 10 months ago

Should have the list in the manual. I’m dealing with same thing on my Game Show. I’m waiting for a replacement transistor from mouser. The sling locks on the second the pin is turned on.

#2498 10 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Yeah as soon as you turn it on they both lock on.. I see what two transistors control these coil just think it’s strange they would both go at the same time.

Pull out your Aux power board and check your transistors and diodes on-board. If you don’t know how to test (I didn’t) just YouTube “testing a transistor” and it’ll spell it out for you. I found the bad transistor instantly.

1 week later
#2506 9 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

This may be a dumb question, but should the plunger spring be strong enough to successfully go up the left ramp and around? If so, why even go for the light plunge skill shot? I’d rather clear a target by a full plunge and further advance towards a lock and multi-ball. Any thoughts? Thank you.

The plunge is not supposed to hit the ramp, it’s supoosed to go into the inner lane to the ramps right. Am I correct?

#2523 9 months ago


2 weeks later
#2544 9 months ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

It’s that ball hop for me. Both earthshakers I had were smooth to the flipper and that made that shot easier. Both Whirlwinds have a slight hop as it reaches the flipper. It throws me off bad. I need to order those lane guides that Cliffy has to see if it helps like others have said.

Same! It’s the ball hop. I need to fix it

1 week later
#2551 8 months ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I will be joining your club tomorrow...
Not sure if this is been brought up yet... but I was thinking of a mod where I would put in a stronger motor for the backbox top fan. Not too strong but just enough maybe to blow your baseball cap off or something.
Has anybody done this yet?... if ..so how did you go about it? Thanks !

That damn fan already drives me nuts when I can't hit the ramp. I need nothing stronger!

#2560 8 months ago

Whoa, strip 'er down, she/he (i don't judge gender needs a deeeeeeep cleaning!!! Good luck. I would buy individual plastics if there's only a couple.

#2562 8 months ago

It's not as overwhelming as you think. Take a pic every time you take a screw / part out. Scrub everything up, look at pics in reverse. Go for it, can't hurt anything.

#2573 8 months ago

I've done 2 sys 11's now. One went great but pulled insert text and decals off only.
The second went almost flawless, its freezing and pulling technique.

I did my WPC pin and had lots of insert decal and text disappear.

#2576 8 months ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Hey, thanks for all the help! I really appreciate it.
I think I will leave a Mylar as is since it’s not too bad. And for the topper.... When you paint...do you use a flat white spray paint?
Where do you find those colored rubber posts?
Thanks again guys!


2 weeks later
#2616 8 months ago
Quoted from speederice:

Hey guys, just joined the club this weekend. Loving WW. I have a few questions/issues as a newbie owner:
- Mine has no topper. Is there a guide or wiki available for installing a topper from scratch? Where to order, how to install, etc?
- No manual. I might wait until the Allentown show to pick one up if I can find the relevant info somewhere online.
- One of my test menu buttons is missing. I have the black button that initiates the menu, the red one next to it, but it is missing a third button. I have been able to change settings using the black button and the start button. Will missing this third test button affect my ability to change settings?
Any other common issues or things to look out for as a new owner?

For the topper, read the crap out for this thread, there is good info.

For the manual. IPDB will have it, I printed mine and put it in a binder

3 weeks later
#2643 7 months ago
Quoted from bailorgana:

I’m getting two balls in the shooter lane when I have one ball locked. I checked all the trough and lock lane switches they’re all testing good with the switch edges test. I cannot figure out what the heck is going on and I happens almost every time. However this is the only time this happens. Help! Thanks in advance!

Check your switches with ball and not our finger, maybe the switch isn’t seeing it with a ball only.

1 week later
#2651 7 months ago

Awesome gameplay man!!!

1 week later
#2693 6 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Ok follow up question. The Whirlwind I bought is having what I believe is an adjust failure however the first display is putting out garbled letters so it doesn't say "adjust" or anything that I can make sense of. I pulled the battery holder off the board (it was corroded) and treated the board with vinegar/water/alcohol. I had NVRAM installed on the machine today and the same error is still happening. Any ideas on where to go next?
[quoted image]

I had the same problem with my Game Show, I thought it was a bad display at first, but my board was corroded enough that needed replacement. I bought a new sys11 bird and first time I fired it up the display was mint.

Maybe send it out for repair ?

1 month later
#2800 5 months ago

How about this one? Dante has paint codes in also, maybe too old too?


#2803 5 months ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

What type of paint did you use? Gloss? NY banned oil based paint...

How far is the state line?

#2810 5 months ago
Quoted from AdjustFailure:

Recently my Whirlwind game made a new sound and lighting effect that I had not seen or heard before and flashed "three way combo" on the display.
I am not sure what I did but it seems to be a special accomplishment -- I have only seen this once in the 25 years I have had this game. What did I do to get this "three way combo" thing?

The three way combo is like one of the most gratifying shots ever, its the most that I have had in my collection for sure.

#2817 5 months ago

For me, it’s not an easy shot from the lock. Is it too steep? It seems I be all about timing and hitting it perfect on my WW

#2820 5 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

That's how mine is. I think if you could make the shot easily it wouldn't be as rewarding when you nail it.

That's also how I feel about the 3-way combo. Holy crap is that one all about timing. So freakin' gratifying. Probably only have about 4 or 5 of them. The next one will never feel diminished either. Love the sounds and lights from it.

#2823 5 months ago

Friggin' hate the left side ball hop i'm getting on my WW. Cliffy's return lane guides get rid of that and worth it? Who has bought them?

3 weeks later
#2857 5 months ago

Prob a flaky switch, might need an adjustment or replace? Maybe a high res. open on the wire?

#2864 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Question, if the switch is registering correctly in switch test by actuating the switch how would shorting the same switch at the MPU pins rule out an MPU issue? Please excuse my electronics ignorance, I'm new to this!

Are you testing with your finger or the ball in the switch test. The ball might not be getting it low enough or its sitting cockeyed or something.

1 month later
#2889 3 months ago
Quoted from AMBoggs:

Finally joined the club on Monday. This is a great game.[quoted image]

Beauty! Looks dark, needs a good shop job hey!?

1 week later
#2894 3 months ago

Check for wiring, loose, cracked?

#2898 3 months ago

Is it properly lined up? Maybe it’s not coming out clean and straight
Most things never need a full rebuild.
Usually sleeve and plunger if it’s pounded.

3 weeks later
#2911 71 days ago
Quoted from krahsdnal:

Ok folks I need some help on my WW pin. You guys have done a beautiful job restoring some WW pins, so I figured I would reach out here for help!
The knocker in the backboard has a wire coming from it w/ the connector but it is just dangling there. Where does it connect? You may have to put it in lay mens terms ... I am good at working with the wiring in my house, but not very good at reading schematics for a pin.

There should be an exact match of the connector also coiled up someplace in backbox also then?

#2931 66 days ago

Difference between an open and a high resistance open. High res open means it's barely touching and probably intermittent, like going in and out with temp changes or wiggling.

1 week later
#2952 53 days ago

LOL, nice

#2968 49 days ago
Quoted from BenB:

Picked up a whirlwind last weekend and have it playing solid after rebuilding the power supply and some small adjustments. My top glass on the display is somewhat dim even after sealing the 39k resistors. I will be replacing the display sometime soon but curious to see some phots of rottendog vs xpin. Wondering if the blue looks any good?


1 week later
#2981 41 days ago

For your first issue, it looks like this connection has no wire, must be there??

4ffa1effdd12204f49022c722822e23c878d84ef (resized).jpg
#3009 36 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I'll be putting in Comet Comet LEDs but have read some things about using incandescent bulbs for the flashers. Is this a good idea & why? Thanks

Because LED flashers are freakin bright. And traditional flashers look good still.

1 week later
#3027 29 days ago
Quoted from misterman:

I'm wanting to make a light bulb order but before I do I thought I'd run it by you all. 50 1smd non ghosting frosted, bayonet, 50 1smd non ghosting frosted wedge. Would that be a good start and those are compatible correct? Those are all 6.3v. Then to get free shipping, maybe some flashers? The 8smd 12 volts would work correct? I haven't gotten to check what base style the flashers are in my machine. I have had some lights on very faintly when they shouldn't be so I figured non- ghosting wouldn't be the worst idea.

Leave your flashers incandescent. Due to other problems if you read up in thread recent posts. If you lift your PF, you could count out your bayonet and wedge, If you wanted you could color match your inserts with non-ghosting frosted. And do 2smd frosted for your GI, Probably going to be short with only 100

#3031 29 days ago

The 1smd non ghosting frosted and the 2smd frosted are great bulbs, I use them in everything

#3034 29 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Is that an extra layer under the cellar protectors? I see something thin and clear.

Absolutely that's a playfield protector. I had put one on my Bally Game Show, man it played fast with it!

#3037 29 days ago


#3052 25 days ago

CAN'T beat it !!!!

#3062 24 days ago

WhirlWind does have some handy places that a couple spotlights could be added without them being intrusive. I lit my flipper drain also with a 7led strip

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 399.95
$ 14.99
From: $ 16.95
From: $ 19.99
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 16.50
Lighting - Led
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider northerndude.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside