Just stumbled across this thread - boy am I missing my WW!! It's been dismantled since April when I sent my DP PF to HEP. Hopefully I'll be getting it back the next few months...I can hardly wait!

Unfortunately, I had to sideline the rest of the restoration as I got side tracked by a move in August but I've finally gotten to a point where I can resume working on it again and have been working on the mechs, cabinet and such over the last few days. In doing so, I have a few question I'm hoping you might know the answers to. Here they are:

1) I'm sending all the pf posts and such out for nickel plating and was wondering was plating I should have done on the trough pieces, lift bar, switch box, etc? Those piece look to be galvanized but I don't know for sure and I don't know anyone that does galvanized plating. I would like to keep it as original as possible. Do you think zinc plating would work?

2) I picked up a couple of ball gate flaps from Marco to replace my badly rusted and pitted ones but their replacements are bare metal. Do you know what finish or plating was used to make them that blackish, bluish color? I was going to try some gun blue bit figured I'd check here first.

3) Does anyone have a source for black oxide plating/finishing? I'd like to re-do the back box bolts (and maybe the ball gate flaps?) but don't want to lay out the $70 for Caswell's smallest blackening kit.

Thanks,
Ian

Thanks for the link to the Eastwood kit. I may give that a shot since its about half the cost of a Caswell kit and would probably deliver the results I'm looking for.

On an unrelated topic, can you tell me what size screws are used for your inlane guides? When I was tearing down my pf I noticed that 2 of the 3 screws on each side were #6 and the other was a #8. On my other pins they have always been the same size for all 3 so I'm wondering if they changed this for WW or if it was a hack done by a previous user? Both #8 screws also had a #8 t-nut so it wasn't as though someone was compensating for a stripped t-nut by jamming a #8 in there.

Thanks!

I have a switch question for you folks. I just started re-assembly of my pf and noticed the top right eject switch (switch #43 - green/blue; white/orange) has the green/blue attached to the common lug and the white/orange is wired to the normally closed lug . I haven't checked every other switch (yet) so I can't say for sure this is the only one wired differently but on the other ones I did check the column wires - green/xx - attach to the normally closed lug and the row wires - white/xx - attach to the common lug. Is this how your switch #43 is wired?

_{Post edited by mac622: Detail was incorrect}

I should mention the eject functioned normally before teardown so it was working wired that way. Here is a pic of it before teardown:photo (3).jpg

I'm in the middle of restoring my WW and currently have the fan assembly dis-assembled so if you need some detailed pics of the bracket for fabricating let me know. I also may have an extra triac board.

I may have one of the harnesses if not both. I'm still finding "goodies" tucked away in boxes after our move last year so I'll do some digging around to see if I held onto them and let you know.

I didn't get a chance to trace the bracket last night but will do it tonight or tomorrow morning.

I don't think I have a full loom but I'll let you what I dig up

Sorry Doug - i didn't find any extra harnesses. I'm still missing a whole box of stuff from our move which I fear may have been tossed by accident since it looked like a box full of scrap wires!

Should the flap be on the inside or outside of the Skyway ramp? I have seen it both ways on several machines so I'm wondering what your thoughts are? Thanks

lift ramp.PNG

That's what I think too and it make sense to protect the ramp from ball strikes but I've seen them both ways on several games.

What are the correct legs for WW - the short, 9" ribbed ones or full ribbed? I'm seeing conflicting info from different suppliers. Thanks

Bump....

That is the correct bolt from Marco

I posted the same question in the general forum and someone replied with a pic of the original flyer which shows the fulled ribbed legs. I guess its one of those areas where Williams was transitioning so they probably came with both styles.

Which LED's do you guys prefer (Cointaker, Ablaze, Noflix, PinballBulbs, etc)? I used the Noflix Plus Superfluz (no flicker, etc) in my TZ and thought they were great but that was 3 years ago so interested what you guys are using and prefer nowadays. Also, what colors did you use under the yellow and orange inserts and did you color match the 906 LEDs? I, really like the incandescent look for the GI so I probably won't do those.

This thread is good timing because I'm just about done with my cabinet and will be starting my pf re-assembly probably this weekend. Here are some pics: www4.jpgwww3.jpgwww2.jpgwww1.jpg

Getting ready to order some LED's and wondering what color you guys use under the yellow and orange inserts and if you use color matched flashers as well? I'm keeping the GI incandescent. Thanks

Can someone share a pic of the rubber layout under the 3 bank plastic? I forgot to take a pic of that area before the teardown. Thanks

Awesome - thanks!

When you go into the switch "level" test does it register the three trough switches as being activated (assuming there are no balls locked)? Having trouble with multiple balls getting loaded into the shooter lane so trying to narrow things down. Thanks

f anyone needs a set of spinner target decals let me know. I didn’t like the way the Marco replacements looked (wrong color and size) so I was able to source a sheet of the material and made my own. I couldn’t think of any uses for the rest of the sheet so I cut the remainder into more decals. The first picture is an original next to a Marco and the other picture is the material I used. Its brighter/more vibrant than the original but it fits the theme well and looks great.

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If you're still looking for the spinner decals take look at my post on page 9 of this thread. If they're something you would be interested in I'll pop a couple in the mail for you.

Believe it or not mine became more difficult "after" restoration. I'm guessing that had a lot to do with everything being newer, tighter and/or cleaner and that the game plays much faster. Trying to adjust to the new speed I find I have more trouble firing the shot earlier vs. later and I often send the ball around the inner orbit than up the ramp.

You will have to move the pf but you don't have to remove it completely. With the pf in the up position carefully lift the pf up and off the hinge studs/bolts in the side cabinet and then set it back down with the rear of the pf brackets resting on top of the studs/bolts. When you lower the pf you will now be able to slide the pf out an extra 6-7" giving you enough access to the ramp screws. Two things to the mindful of: 1) When sliding the pf on the studs make there are no wires, switches or lamp sockets in the way (one of my g.i. sockets was very close) and 2) put a piece of foam, pillow or a couple of towels on the front of the cabinet before you set the pf down. With it slid out the extra 6-7" some of the mechs would be hitting the front of the cab so want some type of protection there.

Definitely get the longer die as well - you will use it particularly if your replacing any ramp flaps. If you don't to spend the $53 for both long ones then at least get the head die for $29

RTTB has them. I bought one from them several years ago when all the local distributors were out and the shipping wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.

http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/shopping_cart.php?keywords=whirlwind&sort=2a

here you go:

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Thanks. It's an original Diamond Plate PF that HEP restored. Came out beautiful

Looks great - GLWS

Agreed! Looks like its dialed in nicely too