(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!


By mof

5 years ago



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#230 5 years ago

Just stumbled across this thread - boy am I missing my WW!! It's been dismantled since April when I sent my DP PF to HEP. Hopefully I'll be getting it back the next few months...I can hardly wait!

Unfortunately, I had to sideline the rest of the restoration as I got side tracked by a move in August but I've finally gotten to a point where I can resume working on it again and have been working on the mechs, cabinet and such over the last few days. In doing so, I have a few question I'm hoping you might know the answers to. Here they are:

1) I'm sending all the pf posts and such out for nickel plating and was wondering was plating I should have done on the trough pieces, lift bar, switch box, etc? Those piece look to be galvanized but I don't know for sure and I don't know anyone that does galvanized plating. I would like to keep it as original as possible. Do you think zinc plating would work?

2) I picked up a couple of ball gate flaps from Marco to replace my badly rusted and pitted ones but their replacements are bare metal. Do you know what finish or plating was used to make them that blackish, bluish color? I was going to try some gun blue bit figured I'd check here first.

3) Does anyone have a source for black oxide plating/finishing? I'd like to re-do the back box bolts (and maybe the ball gate flaps?) but don't want to lay out the $70 for Caswell's smallest blackening kit.

Thanks,
Ian

#232 5 years ago

Thanks for the link to the Eastwood kit. I may give that a shot since its about half the cost of a Caswell kit and would probably deliver the results I'm looking for.

On an unrelated topic, can you tell me what size screws are used for your inlane guides? When I was tearing down my pf I noticed that 2 of the 3 screws on each side were #6 and the other was a #8. On my other pins they have always been the same size for all 3 so I'm wondering if they changed this for WW or if it was a hack done by a previous user? Both #8 screws also had a #8 t-nut so it wasn't as though someone was compensating for a stripped t-nut by jamming a #8 in there.

Thanks!

2 months later
#279 5 years ago

I have a switch question for you folks. I just started re-assembly of my pf and noticed the top right eject switch (switch #43 - green/blue; white/orange) has the green/blue attached to the common lug and the white/orange is wired to the normally closed lug . I haven't checked every other switch (yet) so I can't say for sure this is the only one wired differently but on the other ones I did check the column wires - green/xx - attach to the normally closed lug and the row wires - white/xx - attach to the common lug. Is this how your switch #43 is wired?

Post edited by mac622: Detail was incorrect

#280 5 years ago

I should mention the eject functioned normally before teardown so it was working wired that way. Here is a pic of it before teardown:photo (3).jpg

2 weeks later
#307 5 years ago
Quoted from dozer1:

e-mail sent to them. Thanks for the info.

I'm in the middle of restoring my WW and currently have the fan assembly dis-assembled so if you need some detailed pics of the bracket for fabricating let me know. I also may have an extra triac board.

#311 5 years ago
Quoted from dozer1:

Just a shot in the dark. would anybody have the violet leads or maybe be able to make up a set? There is one that feeds power to the triac board and one that goes from the triac board to the blower motor as shown in the pics bballfan posted.

I may have one of the harnesses if not both. I'm still finding "goodies" tucked away in boxes after our move last year so I'll do some digging around to see if I held onto them and let you know.

I didn't get a chance to trace the bracket last night but will do it tonight or tomorrow morning.

#313 5 years ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

I'll buy a full loom if you have one ( after you find dozer1 his violet leads .. not trying to cut in)

I don't think I have a full loom but I'll let you what I dig up

#317 5 years ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

I'll buy a full loom if you have one ( after you find dozer1 his violet leads .. not trying to cut in)

Sorry Doug - i didn't find any extra harnesses. I'm still missing a whole box of stuff from our move which I fear may have been tossed by accident since it looked like a box full of scrap wires!

#322 5 years ago

Should the flap be on the inside or outside of the Skyway ramp? I have seen it both ways on several machines so I'm wondering what your thoughts are? Thanks

lift ramp.PNG
#324 5 years ago

That's what I think too and it make sense to protect the ramp from ball strikes but I've seen them both ways on several games.

2 weeks later
#340 5 years ago

What are the correct legs for WW - the short, 9" ribbed ones or full ribbed? I'm seeing conflicting info from different suppliers. Thanks

#346 5 years ago
Quoted from mac622:

What are the correct legs for WW - the short, 9" ribbed ones or full ribbed? I'm seeing conflicting info from different suppliers. Thanks

Bump....

#348 5 years ago

That is the correct bolt from Marco

#354 5 years ago
Quoted from zrbrt:

My top flipper is starting to get a gouge in the rubber from smashing into the metal above it. Any solutions/ideas/further questions? I'm thinking that it's making that shot way harder when the flipper can't travel it's full length.
As for the legs, mine are the 9", any other input from another to compare?

I posted the same question in the general forum and someone replied with a pic of the original flyer which shows the fulled ribbed legs. I guess its one of those areas where Williams was transitioning so they probably came with both styles.

#357 5 years ago
Quoted from Ranhorton:

I have the same pitch as Hougie.
And I too run LEDs throughout the game EXCEPT in the playfield GI.
I like the look of incandescents in System 11 and System 9 playfield GI. The light the field more evenly.

Which LED's do you guys prefer (Cointaker, Ablaze, Noflix, PinballBulbs, etc)? I used the Noflix Plus Superfluz (no flicker, etc) in my TZ and thought they were great but that was 3 years ago so interested what you guys are using and prefer nowadays. Also, what colors did you use under the yellow and orange inserts and did you color match the 906 LEDs? I, really like the incandescent look for the GI so I probably won't do those.

This thread is good timing because I'm just about done with my cabinet and will be starting my pf re-assembly probably this weekend. Here are some pics: www4.jpgwww3.jpgwww2.jpgwww1.jpg

1 month later
#374 5 years ago
Quoted from mac622:

Which LED's do you guys prefer (Cointaker, Ablaze, Noflix, PinballBulbs, etc)? I used the Noflix Plus Superfluz (no flicker, etc) in my TZ and thought they were great but that was 3 years ago so interested what you guys are using and prefer nowadays. Also, what colors did you use under the yellow and orange inserts and did you color match the 906 LEDs? I, really like the incandescent look for the GI so I probably won't do those.
This thread is good timing because I'm just about done with my cabinet and will be starting my pf re-assembly probably this weekend. Here are some pics:

Getting ready to order some LED's and wondering what color you guys use under the yellow and orange inserts and if you use color matched flashers as well? I'm keeping the GI incandescent. Thanks

4 weeks later
#390 5 years ago

Can someone share a pic of the rubber layout under the 3 bank plastic? I forgot to take a pic of that area before the teardown. Thanks

#392 5 years ago

Awesome - thanks!

1 month later
#401 4 years ago

When you go into the switch "level" test does it register the three trough switches as being activated (assuming there are no balls locked)? Having trouble with multiple balls getting loaded into the shooter lane so trying to narrow things down. Thanks

2 weeks later
#414 4 years ago

f anyone needs a set of spinner target decals let me know. I didn’t like the way the Marco replacements looked (wrong color and size) so I was able to source a sheet of the material and made my own. I couldn’t think of any uses for the rest of the sheet so I cut the remainder into more decals. The first picture is an original next to a Marco and the other picture is the material I used. Its brighter/more vibrant than the original but it fits the theme well and looks great.

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2 months later
#505 4 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

I need to install spinner decals on our Whirlwind. Specifically the one in the upper right orbit. They are a holographic image. Can anyone recommend where and what to buy?

If you're still looking for the spinner decals take look at my post on page 9 of this thread. If they're something you would be interested in I'll pop a couple in the mail for you.

2 months later
#602 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

How hard is everyone's ramp shot from the upper flipper? Mine takes an almost perfect shot to make it. Everything was rebuilt when I restored the pin. Just wondering if this is typical.

Believe it or not mine became more difficult "after" restoration. I'm guessing that had a lot to do with everything being newer, tighter and/or cleaner and that the game plays much faster. Trying to adjust to the new speed I find I have more trouble firing the shot earlier vs. later and I often send the ball around the inner orbit than up the ramp.

1 month later
#615 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

Yeah I have that piece loosened but it doesn't seem to help much

Quoted from dsuperbee:

You gotta remove them, then angle the pf using the bracket. You should be able to reach the screws then. If worse comes to worse, remove the pf.

You will have to move the pf but you don't have to remove it completely. With the pf in the up position carefully lift the pf up and off the hinge studs/bolts in the side cabinet and then set it back down with the rear of the pf brackets resting on top of the studs/bolts. When you lower the pf you will now be able to slide the pf out an extra 6-7" giving you enough access to the ramp screws. Two things to the mindful of: 1) When sliding the pf on the studs make there are no wires, switches or lamp sockets in the way (one of my g.i. sockets was very close) and 2) put a piece of foam, pillow or a couple of towels on the front of the cabinet before you set the pf down. With it slid out the extra 6-7" some of the mechs would be hitting the front of the cab so want some type of protection there.

#639 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

I bought the kit from Pinrestore that turns a Harbor Freight press into a rivet press. It works well, but I'm very close to getting the longer die. The shorter one that comes in the kit will work in 90% of the jobs you need to do, but there are times that it doesn't. http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

Definitely get the longer die as well - you will use it particularly if your replacing any ramp flaps. If you don't to spend the $53 for both long ones then at least get the head die for $29

11 months later
#866 3 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

anyone know where I can get a replacement lift ramp? Mine just cracked off the hinge
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=510

RTTB has them. I bought one from them several years ago when all the local distributors were out and the shipping wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.

http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/shopping_cart.php?keywords=whirlwind&sort=2a

1 week later
#923 3 years ago

here you go:

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#928 3 years ago
Quoted from Wickerman2:

Wow, that is a nice looking playfield

Thanks. It's an original Diamond Plate PF that HEP restored. Came out beautiful

2 months later
#1183 3 years ago
Quoted from Jesterfunhouse:

Now that it is fully functional and shopped I just posted mine for sale in the marketplace (I don't hold onto them for long...LOL)
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/35854

Looks great - GLWS

2 years later
#2669 5 months ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Some good skills there bro!!

Agreed! Looks like its dialed in nicely too

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