Haven't spent much time on this yet. The top row of the display is out. Bottom works fine.
Anyone else seen this?
(Topic ID: 62621)
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1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from Billy16:If the plunge is going all the way up the ramp, someone put a really strong spring on the plunger, you'll want to correct that as well.
I've found the green shooter spring works best in Whirlwind.
3 weeks later
Quoted from scampcamp:I will be joining your club tomorrow...
Not sure if this is been brought up yet... but I was thinking of a mod where I would put in a stronger motor for the backbox top fan. Not too strong but just enough maybe to blow your baseball cap off or something.
Has anybody done this yet?... if ..so how did you go about it? Thanks !
Or you could enjoy the game the way it was intended. Either way, it's a great game.
Quoted from scampcamp:gonefishinlvmsg ... thanks so much for the link. I really appreciate it.
Did you notice much of a change with the version 2 compared the 3rd?
I updated mine a while back and noticed no difference at all. Save your money...
3 weeks later
Quoted from luckycreature:what is the height with the topper? Thanks ahead of time.
Mine's just under 7 feet.
1 month later
Quoted from bailorgana:self bump - what do you guys think?
I found it to be a combination of the adjustment at the shooter lane exit and the proper spring (green worked best for me).
4 months later
Quoted from Happy81724:Quick question, yesterday I was playing whirlwind with my neighbor and twice the game stopped and said missing pinballs. Any idea why? I assume a switch in the trough but it was weird mid game.
Check the ball trough switches.
Quoted from Happy81724:Quick question, yesterday I was playing whirlwind with my neighbor and twice the game stopped and said missing pinballs. Any idea why? I assume a switch in the trough but it was weird mid game.
Yes, check the ball trough switches. The machine knows how many balls are in play and how many to expect in the trough.
Quoted from yzfguy:Looks like you may need to level those spinners from underneath.
Or get some new spinner decals with more grip.
1 month later
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:please, that backglass has gave me retina damage!
The playfield too...
2 months later
Quoted from yaksplat:Either cellar restarts the multiball.
adj36 controls the amount of time that you have to get in the cellar for the restart.
Thinking that after the first multi-ball, you have to start them via the ramp only.
5 months later
Quoted from jgadzia:i just ordered a new playfield from planetary pinball, I was thinking I would get a cpr or micro. but I don't think I have either. i have this sticker on it. Is this a NOS playfield?
[quoted image]
Just indicates it's a licensed reproduction. If it's CPR, I think it should have a gold / silver / bronze sticker somewhere as well.
Quoted from orangegsx:I would clean the ramp, replace the flap, and get a cliffy protector that covers that area with metal
Agreed. Why spend all that money on something that you can't even see when playing the game?
1 month later
4 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from yaksplat:I don't think so. If there's a molex, it's not original.
Mine is off. Just disable replay and match awards.
Quoted from ElectricLou:Huge thanks MrSanRamon for an overlay at great price. That’s why a community exists. Marcospec would have charge me 200$ with shipping.
The guy is a gentleman.
Thanks
Lou
Keep an eye on Marco. They've been offering free shipping on orders over $99 recently. Bought a CPR PF from them.
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:If I have to replace the display on my Whirlwind, which company makes the best/most reliable replacement one? I haven't tested the voltage yet on the molex connectors, but I suspect the display is burnt out.
My Whirlwind is a project I bought from a guy who left it outside under a tarp for several years, then moved it to a garage with no temperature control.
Put a PinScore in mine.
Quoted from RobDutch:Are there tricks to make the spinning disks more quiet?
I know you can change the settings
Already took them apart and cleaned them, but they are still super noisy.. (A deafening unpleasant noise that is unbearable to listen to with the glass off)
And what I also did is put a noise dampening mat inside the cab.
Put the glass back on?
2 months later
Quoted from not4tilts:The diverter is 100% functioning normal. It opened for the ball. I really think there was some race condition in the logic.
Have you run diagnostics and confirmed all three switches in the lock lane? I'm wondering if it's not detecting the second ball being locked.
1 month later
Quoted from rvermeire:I followed the 3 cables :
Orange 1 to kompass center (RED circle - never works)
Orange 2 to yellow '100K bonus per sweep' in front of targets (occassionally blinks together with the 100K when LIT target )
BLack cable : untraceable.
I noticed on the yellow 100K per sweep there is a second orange cable and a black cable connected.
Do you think it's possible I should connect the oranges together and to the oraange one of the flasher and the black to the black cable of the flasher ?
Get a schematic. "Trying" to connect different colored wires to see if it works is never a good idea.
3 months later
Quoted from Cudaman:Has anyone successfully removed the mylar from a Whirlwind playfield with no damage? Mine is coming up in spots and I have a few raised inserts I need to fix. I would use the freeze spray method with flour and rubbing alcohol for removing the glue. That is unless others have a better way.
As an fyi, i successfully removed mylar from a Bride of Pinbot with the above method, but used dry ice. So figured it would be the same as that one.
System 11...proceed with caution.
11 months later
A plun
Quoted from punkin:I'll get some springs out and have a paly with it. My mate sometimes slams the plunger with his palm to do it, but it's not really doable atm.
A green spring dud the trick for mine.
Quoted from trecemaneras:Can anyone tell me what page this is in the manual? I’ve looked and looked and don’t see it anywhere.
[quoted image]
I belive that's on a separate sheet and not part of the manual. Will check tonight.
3 weeks later
Quoted from mark532011:looking for more ideas.
I replaced switches 22,23 (left lock 1,2) verified the diodes were the correct orientation and they still show as bad in the self test, though switch 24 (left lock 3) shows ok.
The schematic shows they go between IP8 pin3 and IP10 pins 2,3 but everything else in the row and column show ok. So i put a multimeter on the pins and verified I have connectivity when the switch is closed (and the diode is jumpered around)
The mpu board is a new rottendog one
so now I am kinda stumped as to where to go next.
Check the toll ramp and diverter switches. I think that balls only kick out immediately if the software is not expecting them there.
2 months later
Quoted from Phesson:Looks like I’m ordering some #906 bulbs for the flashers.
I do appreciate this group and the help.
Wondering how a 555 even stays in the socket for the 906. Aren't the 906 significantly bigger?
3 months later
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Take a look at the rules and game settings, it sounds like its working correctly now to me. The drop target doesnt always instantly reset everytime you hit it, in some modes, its supposed to stay down until you ear
That's what confuses me, the diagram does not show a return spring.
Could be a return spring on the coil.
2 months later
Quoted from mrossman5:Sorry for all the questions. I noticed the spinning discs on my playfield are much slower than they should be judging by other machines I’ve played and seen. Can anything be done to speed them up?
Have you checked the settings? I believe there's one that deals with how the spinning disks work.
1 week later
Quoted from Pbgixxer:Thought I’d share this with the group before I list it. Rare Diamond plated playfield that was done by PFR several years ago. Mine really doesn’t need it and it deserves to be in a game.
[quoted image]
Asking price?
Anyone picked up the Hardtop for Whirlwind yet? Wondering how close the orange areas on the bottom of the play field are to the original. On the OE website, they look very brown.
1 week later
Quoted from PinballManiac40:It does mean you are on the old game code. L-3 is the latest.[quoted image]
Does anyone know what the differences between LA1 and LA3 are?
4 weeks later
Quoted from A1k71:How do you replace the stickers of the spinning disks??
Place the new ones on top of the old or try to peel the old ones then stick the new ones??
[quoted image]
Peel the old ones
Quoted from mark532011:An unexpected failure during the game today
[quoted image]
Probably makes the shot a bit less predictable.
Quoted from trecemaneras:No, I haven't been in the backbox in a while. So that's good - looking more likely that I'm solving the correct problem and not just about to ruin a new coil.
The proper adjustment on an EOS switch has it opening just before the flipper reaches the fully extended position. So, too big a gap when the
Quoted from trecemaneras:I hadn't heard that this was a complaint. My lower left flipper has no issue hitting the main ramp, and my upper right seems fine for hitting the millions ramp. If the shot rattles at all, it comes back, but I don't recall having any clean shots fail to make it all the way around.
My fiddling with the lower right EOS was more in hopes of getting consistent power, not so much increasing power. My lower right flipper has always been off and on with how much power it has, mainly noticed on backhands. I backhand the saucer when the ramp is lifted all the time, and sometimes it shoots authoritatively all the way to the saucer, and sometimes it trickles up there, barely managing to drop over the lip, or not making it at all. Whether I miss the shot or not, I'd like it to come off the flipper with the same energy every time, but it feels like it randomly switches between giving me full power backhands and 50% or less power backhands.
I miss lots of ramp and saucer shots due to sloppy shooting, so I totally own that I need to play better But I'm comparing clean shots to clean shots here.
I'll make sure to check those fuses, thanks!
My experience is the same as yours with the backhand. You gotta be perfect to make that shot.
1 month later
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I think all the efforts to create a 2.0 are awesome! No need to bash on anyone, if you're not into it, keep your shitty opinions to yourself and don't buy it!
Nobody here cares about anyone else's opinion on something they have never seen, bought or played!!
I'm a hardcore retro guy, There's no 2.0 that I would ever buy, but I still give creative and engineering credit where its damn-well due!!
PS. Upvoted the creator back to 0!
Please explain what made his opinion and shittier that yours...
3 weeks later
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:leave it alone. no paint will be a perfect match, most of that is hidden by the legs anyways.
This...
2 weeks later
Quoted from pencilneck:Paint info from my WW restore:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QsFhLR5zoZo2W8kt9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/y28KRtKHvyrBoLqn6
I took the decal kit to Home Depot and they scanned it and that was that.
So what kind of paint did you end up using?
1 month later
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:with mirco, i don't think 5 yrs is long enough. id use washers under everything you can. and try to only snug up all posts, nothing real tight on top.
Makes you want to get one for yourself, doesn't it?
2 months later
3 months later
"Can someone send a picture of where this flasher with the orange and black wires mounts?"
The large yellow insert in front of the 3 target drop bank. You can see it on you picture above and to the right of where the bulb is.
1 week later
Gunner007 is correct. Plunger shot should go to the right of that ramp and loop around to the upper flipper. There's an adjustment at the end of the shooter lane. In my experience, the shooter spring was also important (green one worked best for me).
Quoted from AssaultSuit:Thanks for the tip! Might have a green one in my box!
I've been noodling around this problem lately. I figured I should try changing springs before screwing around with the ball guide on the shooter lane. I already screwed up my Iron Maiden launch my trying to adjust that.
If the ball is hitting the ramp on a full plunger shot, you will most likely need to adjust the shooter lane. It's an easy single screw adjustment.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Gunner007:Solved thanks to a previous post.
Lesson learned
I could use a lot of excuses for what I did but I'll just ask for help to solve an issue I created. So I was about to solder a wire back onto the left lower flipper that just happen to break off. I plugged the soldering iron into the the power in the box. Then touched the wire with the soldering iron while the power was on. Yup you guessed it a quick spark. I shut the pin down soldered but now the right flipper moves very slowly and the left seems to budge a bit then nothing. Any suggestions of where to look first?
Check the resistance of the flipper coils (both windings). You could have fried them.
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