I have developed a ramp up down issue of my own as of last night. I started a tech thread about it but thought I would post it here as well

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whirlwind-special-solenoids-blow-fuse-on-start-up

The ramp would click several times periodically for the last couple of times I played it. However last night I lost all power to the ramp up/down mechanism as well as the upper pop bumbers. It is blowing fuse F3 on the Aux Power Board on start up. I tried it with a known working power board to ensure that a bridge or other component on that board had not failed. It blew the fuse on start up there as well. I am just looking for a starting point as I cannot stand for it to not be working. Any and all help will be appreciated.

I am still looking for a little assistance on this ramp up down issue. I am getting ready to order some parts and want to make sure I order enough things. The ramp up/down coil is bad. It measures around 65 ohms across. I removed it from the game and will be replacing it for sure.

However, I am not sure on the proper readings of the relay coil beside of it. It reads 5ohms. I powered the game on with the ramp up/down coil removed and the fuse still instantly blew. How do I check this relay and is there anything else that could be causing it. I cannot see any broken wires or shorted diodes. I appreciate any help that I can get.

I am having a problem blowing the F3 fuse on the auxiliary power board. It controls the solenoid group for the upper pops and the ramp down cool. I have checked all of the coils and they are between 3.5 and 5 ohms. I have replaced the diodes. I have tried a known working auxiliary board out of my BK2K. I have checked continuity of the wires and examined the interconnect board for burnt connectors or pins. I am struggling and really want to play the game. If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate the help.

I fixed the issue. I isolated it to the left upper pop. I then checked out the tip122 transistor (q75) on the MPU. I replaced it and all is working fine again. Hopefully no one else ends up with a similar issue but maybe this will help if you do.

Lock switches and trough switches are usually the culprit for these issues in my experience. Mine will continuously kick the ball out of the trough with two locked and the third ball in play until I hit release. So I am assuming that either one of the lock switches is off or the trough itself has an issue. I am getting ready to do a full tear down anyways so I will figure it out then for sure.

I picked up a set on pinside a year ago. I'm so glad I did. I have not gotten around to it yet but looks like a wise investment now lol

The seller cannot see your max though. Only the amount you won the auction for

I picked up mine from Bay Area. I am not sure how rubbery though as I have all the parts for whirlwind in a box waiting on me to build a rivet press so I can install the new plastics. I am quite lazy these days

Pm sent

Ive done several machines and I found that goo gone and flour works best. Try using pieces of an old t shirt instead of your fingers. I cut up all of my old plain white t shirts for things like this. Make sure to continue to add flour and goo gone as you go. The fresh flour is what absorbs it, otherwise you are just rubbing it off.

I had a feeling one of these guys would know right off where they went. I'm glad you got it figured out

I don't know if you're into LED displays or not but I have the blue rottendog display in mine. Used to $150 plus shipping from Keith over at ksarcade.com I'm. It sure if they are still that price. It Eliminated the high power section on the board too. I love it.

Other posts are right it's just a bad display not the MPU. They can be fixed sometimes but to me it's never worth the headache.

So...... with all these CPR playfields being purchased anyone out there have a decent players grade field they are taking out and willing to sell? I could be interested in one if so. Just send me a PM and maybe we can work something out

That's why I am asking now

I buy basically every non EM pinball machine for that price. Actually I'd buy any EM machine for that too. Parts alone on any machine are worth way more than $100 in most cases.

It must be marked to private cause it says unknown to us. I think there is a box to make it public or something

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Lol. No need to apologize, it didn't matter to me one way or the other. It shows up now though.

How much damage are you talking about? I have always had good results with simple green on cabinets but I am not sure how damaged we are talking lol. I’m my mind I think this thing looks way worse than it probably does in reality

I second this. I always order direct from cliff. $100 order gets you a free t shirt too lol

I dilute simple green in my ultrasonic cleaner but spray it directly onto a cabinet. It works well with smoke

I agree with leaving the post. Whirlwind is one of those kick you in the teeth games without it. So many sdtm balls. It drives me crazy lol

I have had that opto just go bad several times on different games. You can get them for a dollar or two at Great Plains electronics. I have a gut feeling it was just on its last legs. Test the opto in switch edge. If nothing test the continuity on the board to make sure your connections are good. Look for broken wires on the connector or cold sold on the pins. If all are good I bet the opto itself is bad

Those things have tiny lead wires and it seems that repairs made to them are always done poorly.

I had two sets of these that were both ordered from Marco, albeit at different times, one set was what is shown above. The other was a light blue color. I kept the dark ones as the color was closer match but I didn’t even look at the size. Ugh. Now I’m going to have to go look. I have had all of this stuff sitting to go through my whirlwind for years but I can stop playing it long enough to tear the thing down. Maybe this summer lol

Not really. I preferred whirlwind to tz. I may be alone on that but I didn’t care for Twilight Zone after owning it. It has the worst flow ever. Just my humble opinion. Whirlwind is basically perfect.

It’s the fact that twilight zone is where flow came to die! I can see why twilight zone is a top 5 game for sure but, for my personal preference whirlwind is a much bette game.

Honestly I’m not sure I’ve ever had a system 11 that didn’t need that portion of the interconnect board redone or had already had it done. A lot of the time the traces on the back are damaged as well from someone’s previously poor work. I would imagine all of your gi problems are on that board and it’s connectors. The plug to the left of the one in question (j9) is the power to your lower gi but I would also look at the power input (j6) as well. It’s typically fried in my experience

J7 only goes to the back box insert. It has nothing to do with the lights on the playfield. I believe that j9 is probably also a little suspect if you have no gi lights on the playfield. Sometimes the connectors do not look bad but the pins on the board are bad. The heat can cause cold solder on the back of the board with kills connection and therefore the power. I would check mine for you to make sure but I am in the process of moving and my whirlwind is folded up and wrapped at the moment

It’s that ball hop for me. Both earthshakers I had were smooth to the flipper and that made that shot easier. Both Whirlwinds have a slight hop as it reaches the flipper. It throws me off bad. I need to order those lane guides that Cliffy has to see if it helps like others have said.

I’ve pulled a BK2K Mylar with hea. It wasn’t fun at all but ultimately came off ok. I pulled a Pinbot that came off with ease with the freeze method. I did a high Speed and it took me three days to get the glue off. What a PITA. Consequently, any Mylar I’ve removed from a WPC came of simply.

All of the plastics you have pictured were just listed together on eBay in a collection. They are new. BIN $68

No worries. I have bought some from him before for my T2 and I thought they were fine but I’m sure not all reproductions are the same.

I really don’t have a clue. I have no idea who the guy is I just needed those for T2 and he happened to have them. I didn’t want to buy a whole set cause I was already in the game more than I’ll get out of it lol. I think the blue on one was a little dark.

I have a cpr set for whirlwind I just am tryin to decide if I want to buy a playfield or not. Whirlwind is my favorite game of all time so I probably will

I know you’ve probably already checked it but your f3 fuse looks really discolored on one end of the glass. Does it check good? Sometimes you have to pull them from the holder to test true. I haven’t read all that you’ve done so far but from a glance that’s one thing I noticed

I could not agree with this post more. Your machine so do whatever you like. I like 2835 two SMD frosted white from comet in all my GI but it is all personal preference. GI bulbs take no time to change

I agree with grumpy. Honestly all system 11 games need spotlights added. I also add a strip in the trough to light the flippers. All new games have extra lights that the older games do not have. It helps the dark spots. I do only use white bulbs in the GI though so don’t everyone get their panties in a bunch. Lol

You realize spotlights are white light and not colored correct? Therefore they cannot be, as you like to say, "rainbow puke." Good call though on down voting people based on you not knowing what you are talking about. Congrats on being the guy to get his panties in a bunch... There is always at least one

I don’t have one of whirlwind and mine is not accessible at the moment. Here is a pic of my Pinbot with spotlights and a trough light. No color just white light. I think all system 11 games are dark in the center. I believe that is why stern and other new manufacturers add spotlights to lots of places. Also (they are not my cup of tea so don’t crucify me for saying it) the reasons pinstadium lights are so popular.

I use 2smd cool white but to each their own. Some people are sold on incandescent lights only. At the end of the day it is your game so you should put whatever you think looks best on it.

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Times change. Pinball machines used to have all electro mechanical components. They worked just fine so I guess we should’ve left them like that. You you have fun staying in the past.

I’m going to make my point here and be done with it. You pissed on LEDs but yet you only like incandescent. So in what world did you become the only authority on games? If you want incandescent put in incandescent. If you want LED put in LED. If you want colored GI then put it in! Who am I to judge? Who are you to judge? You clearly have your own opinion on your machines so who cares what someone else puts in their machine. I think all system 11 games need LEDs and extra spotlights. You don’t. Oh well....

I’ll do better next time lol.