(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!


By mof

6 years ago



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  • 3,023 posts
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  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by ccbiggsoo7
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#741 3 years ago

Any ideas on where to get the screws that hold on the hinge for the right ramp? Mine is using flat head screws that have been ground down, but they don't hold securely, plus the head still stick up a bit. More often than not, the ball bounces as it travels over the hinge, and it often ends up rattling around, then rolling back down the ramp entrance.

#743 3 years ago

Thanks for the link. I had seen that, but I'm not sure I can convince myself that it's worth spending $50 + shipping for what amounts to a couple of rivets, at least not until I explore other options.

I could have sworn that I read somewhere that they were screws with nuts underneath.

#750 3 years ago

I'm guessing this is the correct one. It does list Whirlwind.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1880

#755 3 years ago

I'd recommend looking for a loose connection. Mine was doing it, I went through the wiring, pulling on them, trying to find a broken wire or loose crimp. I never did find the cause, but it has worked fine since. I'm guessing that it will crop up again later, and I'll end up chopping off the crimp connectors and soldering directly to the switches.

1 week later
#780 3 years ago

Well, it IS also tucked back under the ramp; difficult to see. Without that pad, mine was having a lot of rejected shots if I hit it solid. After replacing the blue pad, it works MUCH better. I think you definitely want to replace it.

1 year later
#1609 2 years ago

If I'm ordering drop target decals from PPS, do I want the laminated ones or non-laminated? What's the difference?

#1611 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Laminated. They won't wear.

Thanks. That's what I guessed.

I bought a Scared Stiff crate decal that felt like it had a textured plastic surface that is really nice. I just wasn't sure if laminated simply meant it had a mylar coating, while the non-laminated might be this nicer finish.

#1612 2 years ago

double post

1 week later
#1621 2 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

What do is this pictured component control? Could it be related to my issue?

Chosen_S is correct that this is a relay board. It is not related to a pops and slings problem, though. That relay board controls the lower half of the GI.

#1632 2 years ago

I received the notification on Tuesday, and I sent my request on 2/25/2016. I would think it just takes a while to notify everyone on the last.

Unfortunately, I jumped the gun and ordered plastics from PPS a couple weeks ago, so I couldn't take advantage of the package deal.

#1637 2 years ago
Quoted from Billy16:

By CPR? Interesting that they don't have any--or at least they don't list them on their site.

http://www.classicplayfields.com/whirlwind.html

I could have gotten the plastics with the playfield and saved $49 over buying them separate the way I did.

#1645 2 years ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

The first run of plastics that CPR ran were not completely true to the game. Some were off badly. Wrong fonts and colors. I got mine in a package with Playfield on the last run. I'd like to think they were smart enough to rerun with the original films this time.

Oh, yeah. I forgot about that. The PPS ones I got are pretty good, but they're not perfect, either.
A bit thin
A bit thick
Also thick
This one looks close to my untrained eye

1 week later
#1655 2 years ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

It's here - some good some bad.

I received mine yesterday as well. I had similar bad spots on mine. Nothing too bad, and I didn't even worry about it enough to try to figure out if they would be hidden or not. It's a good bit better than my TOTAN gold CPR was.

My current playfield is really not that bad, but it's mylared with wear around the edges, and a new clearcoated PF is a very welcome option.

#1663 2 years ago
Quoted from BriPin:

Does anyone with a repro notice the same line?

Yes, mine shows it as well.

#1666 2 years ago

I don't know much about how the silkscreening of halftones works, but it looks like the uneven dots happen at the halfway transition. Is this done in two steps? Dark blue dots on a light blue background for the bottom half, then light blue dots on a dark blue background for the upper half? This is just a guess from a guy who does not know printing techniques.

2 weeks later
#1713 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I'm assuming its a gold

There will be a grade burned into the wood. That white drip on the W insert would drive me nuts.

#1719 2 years ago

I received a PayPal shipping notification three days after payment.

3 months later
#1868 1 year ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Can someone tell me what goes in these holes (marked with green arrow). Thanks.

Did you use a CPR playfield in your restore? If so, how noticeable is the line in the halftone dots on the lower playfield? I have one that I'm considering swapping into my game, and I'd hate to do so, then regret it. My original playfield isn't too bad, but it does have some wear and is covered in mylar.

#1873 1 year ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Not sure what you are talking about. I will investigate when I get home tonight and report back. Hard to believe my OCD didn't notice that.

Crap! Sorry for pointing it out.

#1875 1 year ago

The insert doesn't bother me. The line does, though. I was just wondering if anyone had done anything with it or maybe if it's not as noticeable once installed.

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