Good find. I recently made one for the Seattle Pinball Museum and have decided to make some more if anyone is interested. I won't be providing the hinge though so if your hinge is good I can probably help....see this post.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lift-ramp-needed#post-3114939

Probably a good chance I will do these at some point. Right now I am building a new much larger machine to accommodate the bigger ramps. Hurricane is up first on the new machine.

I've also had better luck with Goo Gone by not rushing it...let is soak for a while.

I do make the lift ramp and it is thicker than the original as well as it's Lexan, however in your case the ramp it attaches to is busted up.

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I make those. Info here...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lift-ramp-needed

What I don't provide is the hinge on the ramp. Mine would be complete except for that hinge. So provided your hinge is good, I can help you. Mine is not only a little thicker than the original, it is made of Lexan (Polycarbonate)

Craig's List Portland, OR

portland.craigslist.org link

Actually shows out of stock at Starship

I'll see Larry at the NW Pinball Show today. Try to remember to ask him.

I made up some Whirlwind lift ramps if anyone is interested. Price is $45 plus $5 for shipping (Regular mail)

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I use quite a bit of this stuff for ramp flaps...Blue Tempered Shim Stock. I buy it in 100' rolls 1.5" wide and 2.0" wide.

It comes in many different thicknesses. It's general use is to fill small gaps between two objects like where a machine bolts together.

For Pinball, ramp flap thickness is in the neighbor hood of .007" - .008"
For lift ramps the thickness is .005" Has to be thinner to allow the ramp to move down on its own weight.

About those dimples...I learned to view them as a guide. Most of the time they are in the correct spot. On High Speed, there are three sets of 3 targets. They are not in a "bank" but individually attached to the bottom of the playfield. One would think the dimples would be in a nice straight line and properly centered in the cut-out in the playfield....not so. When I asked CPR why they would not make them right they replied, because that was the way they were on the playfield they used to map them. In another case, don't recall the game, the left flipper mechanism was way too close to a light socket...I mean right up against it. I rotated that flipper mechanism to a much safer orientation....

Just food for thought.

I did look it up. TIP120, TIP121 and TIP122 are all NPN configuration. Funny those comparable transistors are out there. Never heard of them until now. Replacing any TIP122 with a TIP 102 was one of the first things I learned. I know for a fact that I have never purchased a TIP122.

Probably just the photo, but is pin 1 on U24 in the socket?