Plastic sets back in stock at PPS for those looking for them.

Same date (2/25/16) for me. I have been emailed.

I would hold tight. I'm fairly certain that CPR will NOT leave you out high and dry for this run. All the evidence I've seen shows they keep their numbers and counting fairly accurate since the new pre-order system was implemented. Given you're very shortly after my date and the pre-order list was open for months since your date ... I'd say you're safe.

I don't know if they incrementally email when response is received or if they email in bulk on a weekly basis. They do allow 7 days for pre-order response and if they do it in bulk on a weekly basis you won't hear until next week if you're in the next batch.

I was originally antsy when pre-order emails (for other playfields) went out but I realize it is what it is and I am thankful that they even make these reproduction playfields.

It's switch #23 in the switch matrix. It's named "Left Lock 2 (mid)" on page #74 in the manual.

It might be possible to substitute a different actuator rather than a factory standard. There's no measurements on the dimensions of the actuator that I can find. Perhaps the manuals on PPS' website might have that information.

Or both. Dead batteries that have leaked their alkaline down to U41 and surroundings to interfere with display data lines.

You just reminded me of my inability to unsee interlaced video displayed on a progressive device.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-led-flashers-to-system-11-games

Diodes are 1N4004 or better. Buy 100s or 1000s of them at a time.

If you want to rule out a main board issue then short the pins on the board to register the switches in switch test.

Sorry. I missed the detail that the switch is registering correctly in switch test. If that's the case then it's mechanical. It might be the actuator. If you have a new switch body then take the actuator off the old body and mount the new switch. The adjust the switch so that it registers correctly when a ball rolls over it in switch test.

The switch in question is a Cherry microswitch. You will need to bend the actuator.

Make sure you have the correct coil (strength) installed and that the coil plunger is lined up with the scoop.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-led-flashers-to-system-11-games
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ww-tech-help-flippers-trigger-flashers

I always thought it was something along the lines of "cracky/crackie". Short for crackshot?!?!?

Definitely try to contact Tony before sending any payments. From a few other threads on this site it looks like he's no longer selling products in his store. I could be proven wrong if you contact him and he replies.

The triac driver board is small and fairly simple to reproduce.

There should be plenty of people at the unload and most people at the unload will have previously purchased a "container" machine and be able to help you convert the line voltage jumpers. There is also usually the same previous post to the group about this just before the container arrives. Post to the group. You'll find plenty of help there.

If you're concerned about this then come prepared to set up the machine. The unload location is always the same and there is a garage there (and someone can bring a tent / cover if needed). Set up the machine and have someone help you through the conversion process. It's VERY easy.

You will need (if I go to an unload I usually bring):

- a 0.093" Molex pin extractor.
- a new jumper wire (2"-3" 18AWG wire, 2x 0.093" Molex pins, a Molex pin crimper and wire stripper).

A standard Williams System 11B CPU board does NOT have a digit display. It has 3 LEDs. The manual lists potential errors that correspond to the number of blinks of the diagnostic (LED2) LED. If your board has a digit display it is an original System 11 (nothing) board. It is compatible but has a sound/speech section that is different from the System 11B configuration (unless someone has re-worked that section of the board).

DON'T.

Do some diagnostics on what the problem is before breaking out the iron. Check the ~RESET signal. Check the ~BLANKING signal. Check for pulsing on the diagnostic LED signal.

If the board you have has the 7-segment numeric digit you have a System 11 (nothing) board. You can use any game software in it but the diagnostic output will only be valid if you use System 11 game software (High Speed, Grand Lizard and Road Kings).

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11.28nothing.29_Games

Look for the rapidly alternating segment. If the segment is not alternating you probably have a basic software execution problem.

You should connect ONLY the +5V power connector (1J17) to the board if you choose to use game software that does NOT correspond to the actual game. You may cause damage to your game if you do not follow this.

Interesting. Great find!

That definitely works but I believe the switch is installed back-to-front. The plumb bob side of the switch should be AWAY from the coin door. It should wiggle/vibrate freely in the air with the other side of the leaf switch against the coin door.

Fair enough. I stand corrected. I haven't looked at a coin door in a LONG time and I was operating from memory. Your explanation does make sense. I seem to recall every time I wanted to stop a coin door slam tilt I just bent the weighted side further away from the door.

After two years of being out on loan at a friend's work place (probably not played much during the stay-at-home period) my baby has finally come home! My friend decided to join the ranks of the "great resignation" so the machine was returned. I built a white alphanumeric display for it but the machine sat folded up (but on legs) for about two weeks while I finished board builds for others. She hasn't been home for four years now. I miss playing this machine.

This evening I finally got around to setting up the machine. Needs work and adjustment but it still plays! Whirlwind is my "desert island" machine. For me that's an even higher rating than "grail". "Feel the power of the wind" - it never gets old to me.

Here's the display installed in the machine. I installed 82 Ohm resistors and the white is visible but not super bright. I guess 68 Ohm or even 47 Ohm resistors would increase the brightness but at the cost of potentially reducing the life span of the LEDs.

whirlwind_white_display.jpg

You really need multiball with "Millions Plus" to have any chance to "feel the power of the wind".

Disconnect the inputs to the triac board at the top of the head. Disconnect the AC power input and drive wire.

It might also be the switch that activates the diverter. If the switches that detect ball locks are not working then the game will probably do a ball search and kick the locked ball out. You'll never get a ball lock under those circumstances. The money shot (left ramp) is where it's at with this game.

Millions Plus.

Feel the Power.

A different solution @ https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/12#post-6591159 is available. Cutting the diodes on the aux board is still required but the diode at the solenoid is not required with this solution.

It is also possible to replace the entire aux board (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-2022-northwest-pinball-amp-arcade-show-thread-6-3-6-5/page/4#post-6962812) but that solution is 150% overkill.

Price on this board is incredible! Hard to beat this price.

However ... the page says "CPU/PIA's will need to be transferred over." so ... caveat emptor. An OEM board does not install the PIAs in sockets potential buyers will need to purchase from various merchants that stock them or remove them from a board. The image also shows no SRAMs installed for either the game or speech software. There is a 28-pin socket so assuming the board does not come with one the correct SRAM (6116 or 6264) will need to be installed. The correct SRAM will depend on the jumper configurations (W5/W6 for the game SRAM and W18/W19 for the speech SRAM). Of course, you can always switch the jumper configuration but that requires board work on your brand new board.

GRN-YEL = Pin-5 (Col)
WHT-RED = Pin-4 (Row)

GRY-YEL = Pin-3 (+12V)
BLK = Pin-1 (GND)

You are using the wrong board.

C-13311-R.jpg

The assembly is C-13311-R and the PCB part number is 5768-12576-00. The one you have in your hand is 5768-12070-00.

Different boards are often made due to the differences in physical requirements. Sometimes, electronic changes are also made.

Williams changed the electronic circuitry somewhere after Taxi and Earthshaker and Whirlwind.

taxi_3-bank_drop_target_schematic.jpgwhirlwind_3-bank_drop_target_schematic.jpgwhirlwind_1-bank_drop_target_schematic.jpg

The difference is the way the optocoupler is presented on the switch matrix.

For the 3-bank drop target board:

• Taxi uses a transistor.
• Earthshaker (or Whirlwind which is the example I typically use) uses a comparator.

The obvious physical benefit is that the TO-92 body does not need to be bent over because the DIP-18 of the comparator is already low profile.

For the 1-bank drop target board:

• Whirlwind puts the optocoupler directly on the switch matrix.

This design persisted for most of the slotted opto boards that Williams used in WPC.

Consider the following diagram from the manual with magic highlighting tool.

whirlwind_aux_power_driver.jpg

The first thing that leaps out at me from the diagram is to check the fuse F2C.

This can fail from lack of C side power (voltage). It can also fail from a non functioning 4N25.

whirlwind_interconnect_switch12.jpg

Suggest you try the following.

• Check the fuse.
• Check for the presence of 25V at 5J11-1.
• Check (diode test) the 4N25.

This video is strange because it shows that the software thinks the C side is engaged but it clearly isn't because no flashers are energizing. The flashers are only supposed to energize if there is feedback from the 4N25 for switch 12. Clearly the software thinks this is the case.

• Make a quick video of the C side test.
• Include (or make another video of) the active switch test. This may show switch 12 is active even though it should not be (at rest).

Before replacing the relay you should probably do some more investigation to isolate the cause. The pins of the relay are tight and you can easily damage the through holes if you don't do this carefully. I would advise not risking the board without a good reason to take that risk. But it's your board so you can do what you want.

You did not include a video of the switch level (active switch) results. This is important in a differential diagnosis.

Let me apologize for the above post where I mention "switch 12". It's actually switch 2 (02="C Side Power A/C Relay"). WPC nomenclature is "switch 12" whereas System 11 nomenclature is "switch 2". It is switch column 1 and switch row 2. You need to report the active (on inactive) status of switch 2. Make (and post) a video of diagnostic test 6 (06 = switch levels).

You need to start doing some measuring. Without any definitive measurements you're guessing (or shotgunning). Shotgunning can work but it can also make things worse (unnecessarily replacing a component and causing more damage during that process).

All things point to a relay failure but I don't think it's as straight forward. If there is no power at 5J11-1 during C side engagement then there should be no power at 2J5-9 and therefore no power to the transmitter side of the 4N25. This means that switch 2 is NOT closed. The software will enable the drive transistor for the C side if and ONLY if switch 2 is closed. The fact the software energizes the drive transistor (causing the solenoid not the flasher to fire) means there has to be a switch 2 closure. This information is missing.

I applaud you for stating this. I have seen many times before where someone posting for help doesn't understand but simply doesn't want to admit they don't understand. So what do they do? Ignore the advice and get nowhere. Plenty of examples of this on this forum.

Set the DMM to DC voltage (V with straight bar above not wavy bar). Attach black lead to any ground point. This can be the ground braid for ease. Insert red lead to contact the metal in the connector at 5J11-1 and 2J5-9. Note that you will not get a reading of 25V while the A side is active. You will only get the 25V reading when the C side is active. Go to the C side test and when the C side is active look at the DMM. You should be able to hold the C side active by latching (depressing) the auto/manual switch when the C side is active.

Do the test without any connectors connected. This isolates as much as possible. If you leave connectors connected you can get interference.

See https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#4N25_Opto_Couplers_in_the_Switch_Matrix for information on testing the 4N25.

Now that's weird. I was expecting to see switch 02 closed. The software needs to see C side engagement before energizing the drive transistor. You may need to run the switch edge test (07) and ground the A/C select drive transistor and see if the switch (02) registers. This seems more unlikely to be the cause of the problem but it doesn't hurt to verify it is working correctly (i.e. the switch closes when you ground A/C select drive transistor).

I am much more inclined to help someone that admits they don't know than someone who pretends to know and it's obvious to someone who knows that they don't know. Seen plenty of these people in real life at my old job (career).

You can always shotgun replace any of these components if you so desire. If this were my machine I wouldn't touch anything until I have enough information (readings) to formulate an accurate and consistent assessment of what is going on. I don't think you're there yet because I cannot explain why you see what you're seeing (in your video). If someone else more experienced than me can see what's going on then I welcome the input.

Take the voltage readings at 5J11-1 and 2J5-9 with and without C side active. This will provide additional data points.

Please don't take this the wrong way but a control must be established.

• Measure the voltage at 5J11-8,9,10 (any of those pins). It should read +25V (this is nominal so it may read up to +40V).
• Measure the voltage at 5J11-4,5 (any of those pins). It should read +25V when the A side is selected and 0V when the C side is selected.
• You already tested the voltage at 5J11-1,2 as above.

The purpose of this is to establish that you are measuring correctly and the system is working the way it is supposed to be working. You measure known good parts of the system to get correct results to verify this. If you aren't measuring correctly all your results are meaningless. You also cannot determine if something is wrong if you don't know the (presumed) working parts of the system are correct.

All the results are the same between components and the values are in acceptable range. This is something that is useful as a guide. If you are testing identical circuits and you test them identically then they should measure identical. If one of them does not measure identically to the others then you have a good reason to believe that circuit has a problem. In those circumstances, you don't necessarily need to know what a correct value is. It is the difference that gives it away.

The drive transistor is the TIP102 (or TIP122) on the CPU board. It is a TO-220 package.

To ground an NPN transistor, you get an alligator clip and attach one end to the tab of the NPN transistor and momentarily touch the other end of the alligator clip to ground (such as ground braid or the side rail). This momentarily grounds the drive transistor and the corresponding solenoid should energize. You can do this with any of the NPN transistors on the CPU board (not the PNP transistors on the Auxiliary Power board).

To verify you are doing this correctly, first ground:

• Q6 (solenoid 16): this should cause the lower playfield and backbox GI to blink (you should hear the relay "click").
• Q16 (solenoid 11): this should cause the upper playfield GI to link (again you should hear the relay "click").
• Q8 (solenoid 12): this should cause the A/C select relay to energize (the Auxiliary Power board relay should "click").

Once you've done this and feel confident then you can proceed to diagnostic test 07 (switch edges) and ground Q8. The switch test should register switch 2.

If you're interested in reading more about the Auxiliary Power board and the A/C select relay then https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#Solenoid_problems has more information.

If you want to know more about the grounding of the drive transistor then https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Coil_Power_is_Not_Finding_a_Path_to_Ground has a little bit more information.

Remember that the software is only supposed to energize the multiplexed solenoids (1-8) for the C side when switch 2 is closed. It receives this switch closure through the 4N25. The 4N25 should only register closure if there is voltage present while the C side is active. Your measurements above show there is no voltage when the C side is active so you should expect switch 2 to remain open. This contradicts the results in your video where the software appears to energize the solenoid for the C side when it should not.

You are very welcome to the help. You respond with the information requested and organize (present) the information in a simple manner. It's much more than I could ever ask for when trying to help someone. As previously mentioned I've seen people ignore the advice given when asking for help.

I also see people who can't organize their thoughts or desperately try to "get help fast" by posting requests across multiple threads and expect instantaneous responses. I ignore these people and stop helping them.

5J11:

1. 25V C side
2. Same as 1
3. Key
4. 25V A side
5. Same as 4
6. GND (ground)
7. Same as 6
8. 25V Fixed
9. Same as 9
10. Same as 10
11. 25V Select (selected by W4)
12. Same as 11

Your results above are expected except for two things.

1. The 25V C side is absent
2. The A/C voltage does not switch (25V A side solenoid power remains available when it is supposed to be switched out)

Everything points to the A/C relay not working properly. What I am still having trouble understanding is why the software still tries to energize the solenoid (flasher) even when it switches to the C side but does not get the feedback from the 4N25.

I agree that you should measure this. It should read +25V (or in your case it will probably read in the +40V range). If it does read +25V then do a diode test on the transistor. This is an NPN transistor.

Whirlwind used more features than any other System 11 game. It has the Sound Overlay board which added 5 extra solenoids.

The board does appear to have light alkaline corrosion. It also looks like someone has replaced U42 previously. That should not be related to your issues.

That's an interesting observation that I missed in your original YouTube video. I will admit that I didn't look closely at the response but rather the fact that when C was active it still fired the A side. Your measurement above for 5J11 A and C show that the voltage doesn't switch but the software thinks the C side is active. Since the voltage doesn't switch but the C side is apparently active the software energizes the solenoid. This is the problem that would be seen on a Taxi before the 4N25 was implemented. This is why Williams implemented the 4N25.

Based on the energizing of solenoid 9 causing the energizing of the backbox GI relay (which should be tied to solenoid 16) and the energizing of solenoid 16 causing only the lower playfield GI to blink, I think you have a wiring problem. It's possibly at the interconnect board. I would need to see an image of the connectors of the interconnect board and the wiring of the connector at the backbox GI relay.

Measure voltage with power on and leave everything connected so that you get readings that are accurate for your failure scenario. This is the control or baseline.

I think you have an incorrect wire. I am not near an actual Whirlwind but there might be other club members that would be able to corroborate the below with an actual image if need be.

• This is your wiring with annotation and supposition.00_ww_2j11_looks_incorrect.jpg
• This is the solenoid table reference from the manual.01_ww_solenoid_table_reference.jpg
• This is the wiring for 2J12 (playfield solenoids and flashers) from the manual.02_ww_2j12_reference.jpg
• This is wiring for 2J11 (backbox solenoids and flashers) from another game's manual. Unfortunately the Whirlwind manual lacks this information so it strictly has an error. This is likely an oversight or a copy/paste error.03_other_s11_2J11_reference.jpg

I think you need to remove the BRN-GRY wire from 2J11-7 and insert it into 2J11-1. This should restore the functionality that you expect. Additional evidence for this can be seen from other images.

• https://imgproxy.pinside.com/F6zZRk5spO6zlVIz0N6gwVX1vtjxLcyWUDBbC1cSZyM/rs:fit:1400:1400/q:70/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tLzkvOWMvMTIvOTljMTJiNGY4ZjkxNjY3MWVlY2UwNDRjYTE4NzM0MzRhNzczNjY1OS5qcGc
• https://www.ipdb.org/images/2765/image-14.jpg

This leads to a disturbing thought that perhaps there are other wiring errors in the machine that could be causing your strange A/C behavior. The weird thing is that the IDC looks factory. This means either the factory got it wrong and it's been this way for the lifetime of the machine or someone re-wired the machine and got it wrong. If someone did this work then ... what else did they get wrong?

It should read +25V (or probably closer to +40V).

• Schematic of Aux Power board showing the origin of the voltage.00_aux_power_ac_relay.jpg
• Drive wire for transistor to CPU board.01_aux_power_solenoid_12_to_cpu.jpg

You should measure voltage at 5J2-5 and 5J6-6. It should read +25V but I suspect it will read the same as you've read everywhere else (0.6V). This is more evidence there is something wrong with the AC relay on the Aux Power board. You should also have a BRN-YEL wire. Given the wiring issue just discovered you should verify that this wire is present and correctly continuous between the two points (5J2-5 and 1J12-5). Test continuity with the power off.

Describe the state of the diagnostic LEDs. See https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#Normal_Game_Boot_Behavior for what is expected behavior. If you're unsure then capture (and post/link) a video.

One final thing to note is that you have a System 11A CPU board from an F-14 Tomcat. This has a speech/sound section that is (presumably) configured for 11A (from the factory). This will cause speech/sound volume (mix) level differences that will detract from your game experience. See https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#Voice_callouts_are_much_softer_than_music.2Fsound for more information.

I think you have either the wrong part or the wrong thread. You reference C-12212-2 whereas Whirlwind uses C-13312-1 for the 1-Bank Drop Target Assembly. It's also not in the center of the playfield.

Based on what I see in your image it does not look like a Whirlwind playfield. Probably a Cyclone playfield. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cyclone-clubmembers-only/page/28#post-6963596 for reference.

All the evidence points to the A/C relay. For grins, you can measure the resistance between the +25V source and the relay solenoid drive. This can be done by measuring resistance between 5J11-8,9,10 and either 5J2-5 or 5J6-6. I am guessing it should measure in the hundreds of Ohms range. To be sure, obviously, measure the resistance without power.

This is a decision for you to make. It depends on how much of "purist" you are and how much you want a "close to original" game experience. Some people care more about these things than others. Some people don't even know there's a problem (ignorance - is bliss) and all they care about is the flippers work and they can bat the ball around the playfield. You can make the recommended resistor and capacitor changes to convert from the 11A to 11B configuration. Making these component changes is MUCH cheaper than replacing your board.

The second video of the diagnostic LEDs is correct. This is expected based on what I see in your first video.

The first video shows the game is "working". I put working in inverted commas because you can bat the ball around the playfield. The display shows an issue and when you say "that's it", that's an indicator that either the cellar switch is not working or, more likely, the solenoid there has an issue. If you wait a little longer the game should go into a ball search and kick the ball out of the cellar. If it does this then the switch is more likely to be your problem. If it does not do this then the solenoid is more likely to be your problem. The previous video you posted shows that solenoid 14 ("Cellar Kickback" or "Under Play. Kicker") works so it's more likely to be the switch although something may have changed since the time of the video creation and the present.

The display issue is most likely to be related to current or previous alkaline corrosion. The board has remaining evidence (the previous image you posted) but you can also see a previous repair technician (or hobbyist) has made an attempt to abate the alkaline corrosion. A lot of attempts at abating alkaline corrosion don't go far enough to remove all the alkaline corrosion, or if they do they don't remove it all. Without good in focus and well illuminated images of the area around U41, it is difficult to be sure but there is evidence of previous alkaline corrosion abatement visible in the YouTube video. It is most likely U41 as this is the PIA responsible for segments a-r,com,dot. These segments correspond to the top display which is the display that is showing issues. To be sure it is the CPU board and not the display, the easiest thing to do is swap a known good from a different source. This is probably not an option available to you.

If it isn't already obvious, everything is a differential diagnosis. It's like medical diagnosis or software debugging. There's no difference in methodology - just the knowledge base.

At this point, in my opinion, replacing the AC relay is warranted.

The problem with alkaline corrosion is that there is no pattern to it. It can go in any direction from the source. Left to the reset section, up to the resistor/capacitor networks or 2.54mm 2-row headers, right to the 74154, down to U41/U42/address decode/lamp columns. It can skip over entire areas (almost seem like it's airborne = vapor). The image is not well illuminated (it appears that there is an external illumination source). A flash will provide better localized illumination. It also doesn't cover the other areas often affected by alkaline. It appears to be light but alkaline is insidious.

Looking at your original video again, I can see that I made an incorrect assessment. At the point the controlled lamps stop blinking is the point where the software "crashes" or hangs. You just happen to shoot the ball into the cellar but the crash clearly happens before you shoot the ball into the cellar. The music continues because it originates from the sound board and is created by a completely separate processor on that board.

• The diagnostic buttons in the coin door not functioning is definitely proof the software has crashed.
• The flipper not working is likely related to the flipper ground relay on the CPU board de-energizing.
• The GI going out is an interesting issue. The GI is always on in System 11 and only controlled via a GI relay. If it goes out then there's a suggestion that something even more fundamental is going on.

Your CPU board is now "unstable". It needs to be assessed. Honestly, I think this is something you should have sent out for repair. You're systematic. You could probably learn about it if you want. It will take a LOT of back and forth. There are a few reputable repair technicians but be aware that some of them may not want to deal with alkaline corrosion.

If you're looking for a replacement board you can search for one on eBay or the Rottendog MPU9211 board is available immediately @ https://www.pinballlife.com/rottendog-williams-system-9-11-11c-mpu-board.html but be aware that there are reports of issues with Rottendog boards.

EDIT: I want to iterate what GRUMPY said in that this was NOT related to diagnostic steps that you performed. It is likely 100% coincidental. I don't see any causal relationship.

The Mega Door Bonus. Y'all come back now.

I would not trust anything on that 11A board. It clearly has alkaline corrosion.

First thing to check is the fuse installed is correctly rated. These should be 2A or 2-1/2A.

If you set the EOS gap too close but enough to open, you may expose the solenoid to excess heat. The fuse may not necessarily blow but the sustained, repeated high power will generate a lot of heat that may melt the magnet wire insulation eventually resulting in a short. The excess heat may also cause the plastic (spool) to soften and warp.

NOT to OP but general audience:

A common mistake is believing that the (correctly rated = FL-11630) solenoid is not powerful enough because a player cannot "make the ramp". This is wrong. It is more likely that player did not hit the shot cleanly. I have seen people put FL-11629 to compensate but this is not necessary. Play better.

Rule of thumb:

• Test "00 MUSIC" results come from the audio (sound) board.
• Test "02 SPEECH/SOUND" results come from the speech/sound section of the CPU board.

The above does not apply to System 11C as those do not have a speech/sound section. Whirlwind is 11B so this applies.

Another rule of thumb:

• Speech is generated by the CVSD.
• Sound is generated by the MC1458 (DAC0808).

Both have their own output channel that is mixed in with other channels on the audio (sound) board before final amplification.

Sounds like something with the CVSD. You need to run the diagnostic tests. Enter diagnostics. All of the "00 MUSIC TEST" tests should work. It sounds like you are getting background music. Move past "01" to "02 SOUND TEST". I'm guessing that some of the sound/speech tests will work.

For a control (what is normal) check out any of:

If you're unsure of where to look then make a recording of the test and upload if you want.

Uh oh. Looks like CPU board issue.

Very distressing to not hear "feel - the - power - of - the - wind" when multiball starts.

This section is often not affected by alkaline corrosion. You can try simple things like swapping out ICs installed in sockets with known good. Beyond that, you're going to need to do diagnostics with signal inspection. That's the realm of board repair. If you suspect alkaline corrosion then post some images of the board. It's unlikely but not impossible.

Both machines are 11B so they are directly compatible. You can rule out the processor (U24) and ROMs (U21/U22) of the sound/speech section by moving them from the OEM to the reproduction and using the reproduction. If test 02 works then there's nothing wrong with those components and it isolates it to the other parts of the subsystem.

After that, you'll need to bust out the logic probe at a minimum or send the board out for repair. I always recommend repair over replacement. It is almost always cheaper. Only alkaline corrosion makes repair prohibitively expensive. For the DP machine, I don't blame you. There's a local collector who has a DP Whirlwind and I am sure I would never be able to pry it out of his hands. I am stuck with my non-DP which doesn't matter to me. It never gets old to me to "feel the power of the wind".

That playfield has a factory mylar on it. It also shows wear at the left return lane. That playfield is likely lacquered OEM.

I'm not disagreeing with what you're seeing. However, Midway Manufacturing was Bally. This machine is a Williams. Albeit, built around the time that the two companies merged.

The playfield is an original - based on the image previously posted. You can clearly see the factory mylar edges. It is possible that someone has removed the mylar and it is not actually on the playfield but that "100K W/LIT" has a mylar bubble in it. It also shows the green color shift where the mylar edge is at the upper loop. The orange "MILLION" insert also looks like it has the rough sanding marks.

ww_pf_1.jpg

Where the green arrow is shows an insert that also has the rough sanded look. It looks like the mylar is still present (look where the spinning discs are).

ww_pf_2.jpg

The image with the ball hold doesn't show any obvious mylar (rounded) edges near the return lane as well as any line near the slingshots. This makes me think that the lower part of the mylar was removed. It's weird. All of this is just speculation based on poorly illuminated images (I realize the image was not posted for the purpose of showing the playfield nor the mylar).

As someone who provides the occasional kibitz, I would suggest two things at a minimum:

1. Refer to lamps using the numbers and names in the lamp matrix chart. Doing this means everyone is using a common reference and there is no guessing. Bonus for converting the base 10 number to col/row so that it is even easier to see a pattern.
2. Capture a video of what is happening in single lamp test so others can see what is happening so you don't have to describe it with text.

Help others to help you. How you present the information is important. When I read that blob of text above, I just gloss over it and ignore it. Too much work for me to sort out what's happening to bother reading and or writing.

Not sure which is where?

whirlwind_lamp_locations.jpg

If this is your pattern:

• 01 = 01
• 02 = 02 + 01
• 03 = 03 + 01
• ...
• 08 = 08 + 01
• 09 = 09
• 10 = 10 + 09
• 11 = 11 + 09
• ...
• 16 = 16 + 09
• ...
• 57 = 57
• 58 = 58 + 57
• 59 = 59 + 57
• 60 = 60 + 57
• ...
• 64 = 64 + 57

Suspect locked on row 1. Q80.

Try this:

It's WPC but it should apply to NPN Darlington pair transistors.

The PNP is connected to the supply and the NPN is connected to ground. The row is NPN.

More information (WPC related but relevant) @ https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Transistor_.22Quick_Check.22

Lamp supply voltage can be found at the J4 header/connector with the VIO wires. This is documented on page 97 of the manual.

The transistor test is done without power. There's very little, if any, risk of damage by probing with a DMM without the power on.

Oh. I did mention that video is for WPC but perhaps I should have been more explicit in that the principle is what's important, not the detail. I thought you would do some more reading about understanding what is NPN and what is PNP and how to test them based on the video. Testing a transistor is very basic and applicable to all SS machines. You'll be better off in the long run understanding what you're doing rather than just blindly following something.

If you want to just blindly follow something then search for "how to test NPN transistor" and I am sure you will find plenty of material that will give you a "script" that you can blindly follow.

Here's another video from a trusted forum member. Hot off the press!

Your issue appears to be lamp row 1 = Q80.

When testing a BJT, use the diode test setting not the resistance measurement setting.

A BJT that tests good does not mean that it is good. A BJT that tests bad means that it is bad.

There are 8x identical lamp row circuits. The components should all measure the same in circuit. If there is a reading that differs from the others, there is a good chance that it is bad.

00_whirlwind_lamp_locations.jpg01_whirlwind_lamp_matrix.jpg