(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!

By mof

5 years ago

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#12 5 years ago

Just picked up a DP WW with the Chicago Cubs translite recently. I got it up and playing, but REALLY needs a shop job. However it is last in the queue, behind my bowler and DW. I have always loved the game, and I really want to do the blower mod!

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

If you pull the shooter all the way is the ball suppose to go up and around the left ramp.

No. Mine will go about 1/3 of the way up, but it is not designed to shoot the ball through the ramp. The skill shot is hitting the drop target(s), which if you miss, usually leads to a left outlane drain.

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from amalongi:

Count me in. I picked mine up in Allentown this year. Not a collects quality machine by any means, but a perfect players. And (so far) pretty much bulletproof compared to my other two machines.
A question about the translite. When Williams was forced to go from the Cubs version to the W version, did they actually make a conversion on the graphics or just use the sticker on all of them to cover the "C"? Reason I ask is that when I got mine, I found that it had a tiny sticker covering the "C" on the hat. Just curious whether others actually have a translite with the "W" that is actually part of the graphics.

Late run translites have the 'W' as part of the graphics.

I lucked into mine. Always liked the game. Local guy got one, and offered it to me. The second I saw the Diamond Plate logo, I bought it. PF is in VERY good shape, just needs some cleaning really. Scoops have minor wear that I can fix easily. Cab is above average but not perfect. A perfect compliment to my ES and FH!

#45 5 years ago
Quoted from Pugsley:

Oh and last year I took my WW to expo and KOI went and set every HS on it. I have been playing allot to try and knock him off but he still holds GC. I was with in a million a few time and man is that irking me. But kudos to KOI for doing it. It has given me a goal.

The GC on my WW is at an impossible to achieve half-billion. Pretty sure this was done without the glass

Also thinking about the blue colored display. I really like how it looks!

#67 5 years ago
Quoted from boo32:

Does anyone have the link to the photo that shows where the 455 bulbs go behind the backglass? I remember a post with a photo where the locations were circled, but I can't get it to come up when I search.

If it is like ES, the 455 spots will have bigger holes around the sockets, while the standard 44/47 sockets will not have bigger holes around the sockets.

#77 5 years ago
Quoted from mrgone:

ok, the end of stroke switch on my left flipper broke. I replaced it and its working again. the flipper seemed a little weak so I lifted the playfield. the coil was hot! I looked to see that the end of stroke switch was not properly breaking contact. I adjusted it and it is playing fine. I turned it off to let it cool down. would the eos switch be the cause of the coil getting hot? the right flipper coils are cool to the touch.

Yes. If the eos isn't gapped right your coil never switches over to the low power hold.

#79 5 years ago
Quoted from mrgone:

that's what I thought. cool. so how goes your Whirlwind restoration?

It is playable right now, which is what I wanted. It will get torn down and shopped after the dw and bowler are completed. It really needs new rubbers, but it can wait for a bit

1 month later
#116 5 years ago
Quoted from mrgone:

I'm getting an adjust failure message when I power up.
I replaced the batteries and I'm still getting the message. It plays fine when I manually set it to free play in adjustments. When I turn it off and turn it back on it goes right back to adjust failure.
Help. ?? Thanks.

Question: It is the start button to change settings, correct? I cannot change any settings in my WW for some reason. I think I may have bad ROMS.

#121 5 years ago
Quoted from mrgone:

Once I start using the settings buttons the start button works fine on mine.

Ugh. ONLY problem with my game is the start button will not work in the settings. I am assuming it is some issue with the roms, but I really have no idea since this is not a common problem (googled for it and got 0 hits)

#123 5 years ago
Quoted from mrgone:

Maybe try Lloyd. If anyone knows what it is he should.

I have a buddy with a WW. I am gonna see if we can swap the ROMs and see if the problem folllows/stays to start.

If it ends up being ROMs, it will only be around 20 bucks to fix, not too bad.

For now, the game plays, but it is next in line for a decent shop job. When I picked it up earlier this year I did a basic clean and fixed the broken stuff, but that is it. Game REALLY needs new rubbers, ramps, flipper rebuild, etc....

PF is an original DP, so a quick pass with the TC kit should have it lookin good!

#132 5 years ago
Quoted from swenny:

Got a couple of Q's for the more experienced WW players.
I just got a WW as my first pin. Having never played one before, how do you tell if the flippers are getting weak? For example, if I trap a ball w/ the left flipper and then try to get it up the ramp to stop the storm, the flipper doesn't seem to have enough power to get the ball up to the top of the ramp from a dead stop. Is that normal?
Secondly, how difficult is re-building a flipper? I am fairly handy w/ construction type projects, but have obviously never done anything like this before.
Third, If you were going to rebuild a flipper, are their different brands of rebuild kits and if so, is one better than another?

Should make the shot easily.

Rebuilds are easy peezy! Check out the guide to rebuilds here on pinside

There are a few differences, but I tend to make my own and not buy kits. I would upgrade the return spring. Again, check the rebuild thread.

#133 5 years ago

So finally opened up my ww, and it has some corrosion from the batteries onto the u41 chip. I'm guessing this is causing my start button to not function in the menu (since I have no idea what u41 does, and that is the only issue in the game)

#156 5 years ago


2nd one goes under the main ramp, just above the lowest flasher.image.jpg

3 weeks later
#176 5 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Two questions about Whirlwind.
1) When making a nice solid right loop shot... is the ball supposed to feed into the pop bumpers and get bumped around? Or is the ball supposed to go through the pop bumpers cleanly and end up down by the flippers?
2) When the upper right flipper flips, does the one-way door at the top of your shooter lane flap open quickly? Mine does this and I suspect it might be from the magnetism of the upper right flipper coil firing.

Mine feeds through cleanly.

I don't think coils produce that big of a magnetic field. If they did, ball trajectory would be effected.

#180 5 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Hmmm... maybe it's the vibration of the flipper going. Can someone check their game and tell me if yours does the same?

Mine doesn't. I would check for loose screws and such where the one way gate mounts. I think looser items would be more prone to reacting to vibrations.

2 weeks later
#206 5 years ago
Quoted from swenny:

Quick Q for other WW owners. Does the ball come out of the cellar on your game at a consistent speed? Mine seems to be all over the place. Sometimes when it ejects it comes flying straight down towards the flipper. Other times it kind of dribbles out, hits the top of the triangular bumper below it and then takes a funny angle to the drain hole. It's definitely not consistent.
Is the game supposed to be that way, or is the solenoid weak and in need of repair? I've never played another WW before to know if they're all that way or not.

When I first got mine, I had this problem. I replaced the coil sleeve, return spring, buffed the plunger, cleaned the passage, and made sure everything was mounted nice and tight. I've had zero issues since then, unless 2 balls are down there.

1 week later
#213 5 years ago

Just got mine working again. It's almost time to shop it out and clean it up

3 months later
#316 4 years ago

Agreed. Check all the switches in the lock area and ball trough.

4 months later
#402 4 years ago
Quoted from mac622:

When you go into the switch "level" test does it register the three trough switches as being activated (assuming there are no balls locked)? Having trouble with multiple balls getting loaded into the shooter lane so trying to narrow things down. Thanks

Switches should only show as being closed when there is something (a ball) closing it. If you have a switch registering as closed without a ball on it, you have a problem. Check your shooter lane switch and the switches in the lock area as well.

2 weeks later
#416 4 years ago
Quoted from swenny:

Guys I need some help. Upper flipper is competely dead. Bottom two work fine. I checked all fuses, they are not the problem. Looked at the leaf switch down by the button and it makes contact when the button is pressed. What is the next step I have to take to track this down? I would guess I have to check for power at the coil with my multimeter. What do I set it at and where do I put the probes? Thanks.

Here ya go!:


If there is power at the coil, most likely you have a bad transistor and/or predriver transistor.


#422 4 years ago
Quoted from parkway:

Yay. I can finally join. Mother-In-Law found a WW at a garage sale for $500 yesterday evening. Filthy, but all the grime apparently protected the playfield. Been in a private home since 1999. Fully working; just needs a good cleaning and GI connector work.

BB..but there are no more deals on Sys 11 games! They are all gone and dried up and too expensive blah blah blah

EXCELLENT SCORE! Hope it cleans up nicely and plays well! Post some pics!

#427 4 years ago

Pretty good shape for a non-DP playfield! I have mine ripped down to the posts at the moment. If you need pics let me know.

#435 4 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

Just a quick refresh. Picked up another Whirlwind today that had the 'W' sticker on top of the Cubs hat the boy is wearing.
Easy to remove the sticker so do it if you have that decal installed.

Mine has it, and I am keeping that sticker on. It is fairly rare to find.

#438 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

If anyone has any disassembly pictures they'd like to share I'd love to have them. I have some, but my laptop hard drive went belly-up with some on it that I didn't get copied over. General pictures of the cabinet and backbox wiring would be great too.

I will be able to, just have not had any time at all. Hopefully today!

3 weeks later
#457 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

Thank you sir. Does it even matter which way these coils are wired up? I'm thinking it doesn't.

Yes, it does matter. If you mis-wire it the diode associated with the coil will short out.

2 months later
#519 4 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

Just did LED's in my flashers and now the flippers activate the flashers briefly when flipped. Is this causes by a temporary short somewhere, or...

Read this thread:


2 weeks later
#559 4 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

Gentleman I need some help please. My Northeast target is not registering. There are two solid yellow wires and one has broken loose from another connection. I cannot figure out where that other connection is supposed to be soldered to. Here are two pictures. The two yellow wires are soldered to the point on the north east target but one wire is left dangling. Can anyone please post a picture or explain where that dangling wire is supposed to be Soldered to? I greatly appreciate all the help.

image.jpg 176 KB

image-619.jpg 182 KB

its either the northwest target or the switch for the right side spinner.

#561 4 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

Great point! I just looked in the Northwest target and it does not have any yellow wires going to it however the spinner target does. My spare target only had one yellow wire connected so I re - soldered The loose wire. That did not fix the problem and My spinner target also does not work/register. I do not know if it worked before though. Does anyone know if the spinner target has two solid yellow wires attached to it? I may just have a bad switch?

The ne, nw, and spinner switch are all in the same column in the switch matrix. They should all be daisy chained together. You may be missing another wire between the nw target and another switch in that column

2 months later
#607 4 years ago

^you need to prop the pf up on the hinges or remove the pf. I think there is a total of 4 screws on the plastic ramp.

#609 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

I tried to prop up the pf but that didn't seem to allow access. Maybe I'll have to bite the bullet and remove it

You need long arms, a beer, and the ability to swear . It's not easy but can be done. You will need to remove the Lightning plastic and the board behind it to reach

#613 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

Yeah I have that piece loosened but it doesn't seem to help much

You gotta remove them, then angle the pf using the bracket. You should be able to reach the screws then. If worse comes to worse, remove the pf.

#617 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

Dsuperbee's suggestion to prop it up did the trick. That being said, it's a lot easier to feel around and find the screws while somewhat blind than it is to reinstall when things have to be lined up right. So, I may well be using mac622's suggestion when it comes time to reinstall.

Honestly.....I would just pull the PF. Some of the SYS 11 games (WW and ES in particular) are VERY difficult to get things done in the back part without removing it. Besides, gives a good excuse to build/buy a rotisserie!

#632 4 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I'm thinking of installing wood playfield rails along the side of the cabinet, when I paint and decal the cab. The metal hinges just seem horrible to me. Is there any reason wooden support rails would be considered bad? I can screw or bolt them in easily, then fill and sand any holes before I paint and decal. That's what I'm thinking, anyway.
Imagine being able to lift your WW playfield up, and then lean it against the backbox, system 7 style. That just has to be better.

Well it is not original, so if you ever have to sell you would take a hit (and probably a sizable one). Second, the pf still needs the hinges to support the game when the pf is down, so they would still be in the game.

#634 4 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Why would the hinges still be needed, if the rails are supporting the plafield? I don't get this. As far as the rails not being original...well yeah, but almost none of the game will be original. The playfield, plastics and cabinet art are CPR/Planetary repros. I assume that people who don't mind that the game is essentially a "kit" rebuilt, won't mind that there's something out of view that makes it much easier to maintain the game.

So the rails will act as the support when the PF is down instead of the hinges, OK I did not get that.
As for the rails being unoriginal, it is not how the game was designed, so it will be a harder sell (at least for me, I would rather have hinges than the rails.) The rails make it a lot easier to accidently drop the entire PF in the game, causing damage. (Just ask almost anybody who has a DE how easy it is.) The side rails will also cause damage to the under PF over time after being slid over the rails over and over.

While I agree the hinges leave something to be desired, I personlly like them much more than the simple wood rails of yesteryear, and would see it as a step back, not a step forward.

#636 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

So in between fighting an issue with the special solenoid for the top right jet (thread in the tech forum), I am cleaning up plastics. I have a replacement for one (broken) that has the sign riveted to it. I'm curious to know if people rivet or just use screws and nuts to attach the sign to a new plastic.

Depends if you have access to a riveter or now (it is one of the tools I REALLY need to buy, but they can be expensive.)

#638 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

I bought the kit from Pinrestore that turns a Harbor Freight press into a rivet press. It works well, but I'm very close to getting the longer die. The shorter one that comes in the kit will work in 90% of the jobs you need to do, but there are times that it doesn't. http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

So how hard was it to build? I know the instructions from them are not online, but if possible could you scan and send them? I want to see if I can build it, or if it is over my head and better off buying the completed one!

2 months later
#701 3 years ago
Quoted from mrgone:

Can someone take a pic of their raise/lower ramp switch?
I tried replacing the switch but still not working. The switch I got is not the same one but its very similar. I got it from frys.
Anyway, on the original switch there is a second piece with a prong and the wires and diode ran off of that and the diode ran to the switch.

I can tomorrow. Got the unit dangling beneath the PF while I shop mine

#708 3 years ago
Quoted from mrgone:

Can someone take a pic of their raise/lower ramp switch?
I tried replacing the switch but still not working. The switch I got is not the same one but its very similar. I got it from frys.
Anyway, on the original switch there is a second piece with a prong and the wires and diode ran off of that and the diode ran to the switch.

Here is what is on my game:image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

#711 3 years ago
Quoted from mrgone:

Cool. Thank you for the pics.

No problem! If you need more let me know. Game will be in pieces for the foreseeable future

2 weeks later
#715 3 years ago
Quoted from tommyp:

Anyone know where to find a pf for a reasonable price?

Sold out everywhere for the repros, so to get someone to let one go won't be cheap.

2 months later
#769 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

What's the best position for the outlane posts on WW?
There are two adjustable posts on both sides.

There is no such thing as 'best.' Make it for how you want it. I keep mine in the middle on all the games, unless I have family over. Then I move it down, since they are not pinball players to make it a little easier.

1 week later
#776 3 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

The outhole under the ramp has gotten progressively weaker to the point that I need to replace it. Interestingly, there is an AE-26-1500 in there now, however, when I look in my manual, it states that it should be a 23-800. Since I know the manuals are not always correct, I'm hoping someone can look and see what coil they have.

Before spending the 14 bucks on a coil, replace the coil sleeve and coil stop. Re-solder the wires to the lugs, and clean the mini subway. I bet you see a good improvement.

#778 3 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

This is the outhole under the right ramp, so no mini subway. Yes, because I am cheap, I had already replaced the sleeve and stop. I did not resolder since it all seemed fine, but will try that as well.

Totally mis read that. Gotta stop posting late!

1 month later
#790 3 years ago
Quoted from swenny:

Need some help. The subway VUK comes on and stays locked on whenever I turn the pin on. I suspect the transistor is bad even though it tests OK. I think I am just going to replace it but I'm not sure what type of transistor to replace it with. The transistor is Q7. I think it is a Tip122 based on the schematics. Could someone confirm that for me. Also, what would the pre-driver be and would it make sense to replace that also?

Test your pre-driver too, it can cause the issue as well.

1 month later
#820 3 years ago
Quoted from Wickerman2:

By all accounts, removing mylar on this era game is a disaster. Places like HSA won't even restore these playfields.

Only the non-dp games though.

1 week later
#828 3 years ago
Quoted from RyanClaytor:

Hello Fellow WW Owners,
Does anyone have drop-target artwork files for WW? I'd like to refresh mine. Feel free to PM.
Many thanks,
Ryan Claytor
Elephant Eater Comics

Most of the vendors have them available as laminated Already.

2 weeks later
#830 3 years ago
Quoted from TBatti:

So my ramp stays stuck up most of the time now. If I giggle the lever sometimes it will come down in a new game. Any advice on what to look for to fix the ramp?

Clean and adjust the associated coil and mech for the ramp. Probably all gunked up and not adjusted properly.

#838 3 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Can anyone here explain why a blue and a white topper were made for these? I've always wondered about that.

Blue is aftermarket. Stock is white.

#841 3 years ago

^ The nut in the picture is what you need, as well as a washer between the nut and the cab.

1 week later
#845 3 years ago

Rerun is happening at some point, that is all we have been told. I believe this question (not yours, but in general) that was one of the reasons behind Stu leaving. Your PF looks to be in pretty good shape

#848 3 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Anyone looking for a brand new CPR play field???
ebay.com link

Starting the guessing on the ending bid now at right around 1200 (Which may not even make reserve)

3 weeks later
#858 3 years ago


I have a wire that has broken off of the red standup to the right of the main ramp. Can someone confirm that there is a daisy chain between the yellow target on the left and the red target on the right of the main ramp?

#860 3 years ago
Quoted from practicalsteve:

Any tips on how to help a loud fan other than buying the 89$ replacement part from Marcos?

Blower mod!

#864 3 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

anyone know where I can get a replacement lift ramp? Mine just cracked off the hinge

Have you emailed pinbits to see when they will be in stock next? I need a couple of em too! (Emailed pinbits, never heard back)

#873 3 years ago
Quoted from Barron:

Thanks, though. I probably should've just bought whysnow's when I bought his ramps last year. Mistakes!

Give them a call, they can probably tell you when the next batch will be ready

1 week later
#894 3 years ago

Unfortunately they only included one of those in the plastic set. Wish they did a few of the easy breaks, as they did with Earthshaker.

#898 3 years ago
Quoted from Barron:

I can tell you that the PinBits protector for that piece didn't hold up on location. What a bitch to get on, too (threads barely go above the plastic with the protector on). Luckily, I noticed before any major damage was done and got a lexan washer under there.

What post(s) did you put washers on? I was going to get the pinbits set specifically for that part.

#900 3 years ago
Quoted from Barron:

The one next to the third drop target (power) which is basically what you pound into when you miss the ramp shot. Held up fine in the wild with washer.

Excellent info! Will give that a go (and take a good scan of the plastic just in case!)

#906 3 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I scored an unopened set of CPR plastics! But now I'm a bit worried about the pinbits set not holding up to the abuse.

I purchased indypinhead's custom protectors for my BSD- they look great and seem stronger than the typical protectors. I would absolutely love to buy a set for Whirlwind. Maybe if there is enough demand he'd produce a run of sets. Anyone else needing these?

If your game is home use, you may not need to worry about it. Barron's is out on route.

1 month later
#978 3 years ago

I would check to see if the coil for the kick out is the correct one. If so, clean the metal parts, replace the coil sleeve, etc...it shouldn't kick out so hard (at least mine doesn't)

For the plunger pull, clean the plunger, replace the sleeve, etc...make sure the guide rail is lined up right and properly tightened down. I don't know if mine has this issue or not, as I am a sucker for trying to get the 'full sweep' skill shot.

#985 3 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Couple of questions for whirlwind owners- does this look correct to have 1 large spacer and 1 small spacer on this plastic? Seems like it's bending them up and I was wondering if there should be 2 large spacers on that piece.
Can someone please post a picture of where these two small cloud pieces are in your game? I think one of these belongs in the center near the yellow pops, but I'm not sure which one and I don't know where the other one fits. Thanks!


Spacers are correct, mine is the same. You could switch if you wanted to.

1 week later
#995 2 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Has anyone installed the flipper fidelity speaker upgrade for whirlwind? Can you notice any difference or is it a waste of money?

With sys 11, just find a cheap used sub on Craigslist and call it a day.

1 week later
#1036 2 years ago
Quoted from In_Violation:

Does having a translite on your whirlwind with the Chicago Cubs logo increase its value?


Possibly, if the rest of the game is also an early production (ie...diamond plated). I would say it makes the translite more valuable, but I personally find it cooler with the W sticker over it.

3 weeks later
#1101 2 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

Anyone have any gi led recommendations? Having a tough time deciding warm or cool white. Dont want to color blast it, but a few strategically placed might look nice. Ive seen some examples with warm on the bottom and cool up top, kinda digging that. Lets see your leds!

I did cool white everywhere, and warm white for the slings and return lanes. I also added some led strips along the big plastics that are directly above the outlanes, since they always seemed to dark in my opinion.

#1104 2 years ago

I can take some, but will appear overly bright as the game isn't finished yet.

#1116 2 years ago

Here ya go. Used the strips from comet.



#1117 2 years ago

The strip near the upper pf hasn't been permanently set yet.




#1127 2 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

Anyone have issues with the tornado drop target above the pop bumps? Mine goes down but takes an act of God to pop back up. I retightened the screw that holds the plastic target but to no avail.

Remove the mech and give it a good cleaning, including replacing the coil sleeve.

#1130 2 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

Removed the mech, cleaned it, replaced the coil and coil sleeve...still no luck. When I hit the tornado single drop target there is a long delay before it pops back up and counts the score/extra ball.

Try re flowing the male opto pins. Might have a poor connection.

2 weeks later
#1171 2 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

Anyone else get air balls off the right ramp? Half the time I cant lock a ball as it flys off coming around the top right up the ramp

There should be a clear plastic there, like this:


(Sorry, don't have the right ramp out of the game at the moment, but it should have a similar part. If it doesnt, I can send you my old one. It's used dirty, yellow, etc...but would be free)

#1192 2 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:


Coil sleeves, plungers as needed, etc...chck the manual, it will give you a good idea

1 week later
#1221 2 years ago

Almost done. Just waiting on a few misc parts and some leds to arrive.


4 weeks later
#1254 2 years ago

I have worked on several Whirlwinds over the years, and I own a DP one with the C translite as well, and I have never seen a WW with a single hex post, they all had the two part design. Chris Hutchins has pictures of several Whirlwinds on his page, and none of them show the single post either.

#1256 2 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

if anyone knows what's "correct", it would certainly be Chris. His photos of teardowns are like gospel.

I use the pics on his site for reference fairly often. I am very glad he keeps them up.

#1275 2 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Does anyone know how to adjust the kickout from under the right ramp? Mine comes out very hard and bounces of the wall and doesn't give me a clean feed to my flipper.
I know there is a spring on the kicker arm but I'm not sure how to make it soften the kick.
Any help is appreciated.

Verify the proper coil is being used there. If so, take apart the mech and give it a good cleaning, and make sure it is aligned properly to hit the ball right.

2 weeks later
#1292 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I hooked up a psw10 external sub and results are underwhelming. Same sub is hooked to funhouse and it's a major improvement. Is whirlwind just not really a game with an active sub? Anyone have a different experience?

Well you are comparing a WPC and a Sys 11. Earthshaker sounds good with one, but yeah, Whirlwind isn't mind blowing

1 month later
#1311 2 years ago

20 bucks will get you a decent amount of Mylar that will last you for years. If you have a tap plastic in your area check them first. I bought a 3 or 4' piece years ago and still have a bunch left.

1 week later
#1313 2 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Is it true that this game has no ball save feature?? It's extremely frustrating

If you hit 0 switches (excluding outlanes) it will give you the ball back. Ball saves are a relatively new feature.

1 month later
#1323 2 years ago
Quoted from stef34:

if you clear coat the playfield it is no use to put a mylar cause you 've already protected the playfield with the clear;it suppose to apply several coats of course

Mylar should still be put in the pop bumper nests, clear coated or not.

#1328 2 years ago
Quoted from stef34:

i've never seen any damage around the pop bumpers after it was clear coated,this why i was saying no needs mylar over the clear

I have, including my DP whirlwind. The pops drive the ball right into the pf, and metal vs wood, metal wins every time. Why not put Mylar in the area that gets beat the most?

1 month later
#1364 2 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

Anyone hear when CPR will complete new WW playfields?
I'm on list from earlier this year but no email received or update.
what is typical average timeline?


5 months later
#1566 1 year ago

Take some pics of what you did!

#1581 1 year ago
Quoted from Completist:

ive never even seen one that low - albeit you had to spend more on top to get it up to par i'm sure. Lowest ive seen is $2500 and only south of the border. Complete games, fully working but they still need work to make them nice. Noone in my circle of pinheads owns one which makes it even more desirable to me.

They are out there. I got mine for 1200, working DP game with the Cubs translite.

1 week later
#1594 1 year ago
Quoted from codered9394:

Can anyone help me with the blinking bulb locations? So I can assume that the blinking bulbs just blink constantly during attract and gameplay mode. I find it hard to believe that williams didn't incorporate the backbox bulb in to gameplay. They were so good at this for so many years.

My game is out on vacation, but they should have bigger holes in the wood if I remember right.

#1602 1 year ago

In addition to what was said, if it hasn't been done clean the gunk out of the scoop. Mine was filthy when I got it, and a cleaning made a world of difference

#1610 1 year ago
Quoted from herg:

If I'm ordering drop target decals from PPS, do I want the laminated ones or non-laminated? What's the difference?

Laminated. They won't wear.

3 months later
#1825 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

I've heard mixed reviews over that. I've been told it looks fuzzy, and the artwork didn't translate well. Of course, that's subjective, but it seems it's poor reception is why they didn't really pursue it further.

It looked pretty bad in person. The translites are way better.

1 month later
#1852 1 year ago
Quoted from EEE:

That diode looks to me to be installed incorrectly.

Looks fine to me. Maybe not the cleanest install, but so long as it it soldered to the lugs it's fine

#1854 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Ok, similar trouble again. I don’t have a switch error anymore. My drop target will not reset at all. Not when a new game starts or during a game if you get Extra Ball, you basically cannot get one because it won’t come up.
I’ve tested voltages across pins on opti, done solenoid test and it works perfect, there was a shitty repair done on a pin on a male pin on opti, but I re-shitty repaired it, all voltages test across all pins, maybe just a bad board now? I see they are $26 to replace but out of stock on Marco.

Does the switch involved work in switch test mode? If not, look for a break in the daisy chain.

7 months later
#2280 9 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

I second the ones from Marco. I bought a set from their table at Allentown this year, and they’re richly colored, and very grippy. It almost looks as if they’re printed, and then a grippy/rubbery clear textured layered is placed on top. Very high quality.
The vendor next to them had the “light blue” decals that I see frequently, and they were very poor quality by comparison. It didn’t have the dual layer effect, and the grip was much flatter. Definitely avoid the lighter ones.

That's how the ones I bought are, got mine from Bay Area.

#2292 8 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

That is good to know--did you start small and then to size, or just drill the correct hole straight away?

I did a small punch to stop the bit from wandering, then proper size hole. Not a big deal.

#2298 8 months ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Does this happen to anyone else? Brand new blue rubber from marco. Cleaned metal with alcohol before install. Game is not in the sun or heat of any kind. Doesn't happen when playing either its just from sitting. It is still stuck super good every time I have to adjust it back.
[quoted image]

Re clean both sides.

Apply a small touch of rubber cement on the pad, let I take set for about 10 mins.

Apply pad to wire form. Use a c clamp or something similar. Let it sit for 12 hours or so.

Should be good after that.

2 weeks later
#2313 8 months ago
Quoted from bailorgana:

What size did you use for your slings? The ones I bought were too tight.

Should be 2.5"

1 week later
#2320 8 months ago
Quoted from TBatti:

Can someone please show me a pic of their lock lane. I'm getting an error on test report for switch #24 but I don't even have a #24 lock 3. I only have 2 switch #22 and #23 which are lock 1 and lock 2. I don't understand what is happening? Is there actually 3 switches?

There should be 3 switches in your lock lane. Post a pic of your lock land and the underside of the lock area.

#2322 7 months ago

Double post, delete please

3 weeks later
#2358 7 months ago
Quoted from Flip-it:

Thanks very helpful
I will check on the wiring again and see if there are any bad/loose connections. In the meantime I will order some replacement coils and transistors. I did notice a little browning on the front of the CPU board at Q63 transistor. I will look here first if and when it comes to taking off the cpu.

Test the transistor first, the pre drive transistor could have gone bad instead. I usually replace both, but I always test first.

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