(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!


By mof

5 years ago



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#149 5 years ago
Quoted from swenny:

I don't know if this Q belongs in this thread or the tech side, but thought I'd start here first. Just bought my first pin last week (a WW obviously). After playing a few days, I noticed that it didn't seem like my backboard was lighting up as much as it should. Started investigating and found that the entire string of lights at the top, as well as the lights on the R. side don't come on. I traced the wires for both of those set of lights to the backbox interconnect board. They plug into J7 which is just below fuse F3. Can anyone tell me what I should do to get the lights functioning. I'm thinking it is perhaps a fuse, but how do you know which one?
Thanks for the help,
Swenny

I'd post this in the tech section, but most likely you've got burnt connection pins and connectors. The pins start to get poor connections which increases the resistance and they heat up.

#159 5 years ago

You guys are making me wish my Whirlwind was back together. I've finished clear-coating the playfield, but I've got to repaint the cabinet and the painting window in Northern IL has pretty much closed.

6 months later
#355 5 years ago
Quoted from zrbrt:

My top flipper is starting to get a gouge in the rubber from smashing into the metal above it. Any solutions/ideas/further questions? I'm thinking that it's making that shot way harder when the flipper can't travel it's full length.
As for the legs, mine are the 9", any other input from another to compare?

Your coil stop probably is worn down which is allowing the flipper to travel farther than it could originally. I'd look at your coil stop for wear and replace if necessary. The only other option would be to take that ball guide off and file down that edge until it clears the flipper.

4 months later
#410 4 years ago
Quoted from gilerakos:

Hi, Kostas from Athens Greece here. New Whirlwind owner with one problem and I need your help. When the ball gets in the cellar it comes out with great speed and I cannot hit it with the flippers as it passes between them almost everytime. You probably laugh but it is so annoying to lose like this...

Check to make sure your pin is level. Sounds like it may be pitched to the right a bit. My first pin, a LW3, would kick out of the left saucer and drain. It was slightly off-level. Corrected that and would hit the left flipper.

1 week later
#437 4 years ago

If anyone has any disassembly pictures they'd like to share I'd love to have them. I have some, but my laptop hard drive went belly-up with some on it that I didn't get copied over. General pictures of the cabinet and backbox wiring would be great too.

Thanks!

#440 4 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

I will be able to, just have not had any time at all. Hopefully today!

Thanks guys, much appreciated!

#447 4 years ago

I have a broken post that I think goes where the circle is if I remember correctly. It's a bumper post with the threaded top broken off. Can someone confirm that the long threaded post holding the ramp screws onto the top of this part? I think it's a 02-4056 bumper bracket. Thanks again Dave for the link to the awesome pictures! WWpost.jpg

1 week later
#453 4 years ago

Another picture request. I need the orientation of the wires running to the ball lock launch mechanism and the mechanism that kicks the ball from the outhole into the trough if anyone has those. Or if someone can just explain which lug gets the power wire that would work too.

Thanks!

Edit: Thinking about this, does it matter which way these coils get wired up?

Post edited by Dewey68: Added a question

#456 4 years ago
Quoted from JohnDelNJ:

Hope this helps.

DSC02043.JPG 200 KB

DSC02047.JPG 213 KB

Thank you sir. Does it even matter which way these coils are wired up? I'm thinking it doesn't.

2 weeks later
#471 4 years ago

I've got a few areas where I'm not sure what posts are supposed to go in the spot. The spot next to the red pop bumper is for one side of the gate. It looks like a smooth metal sleeve gets screwed in there, but I don't have any left so I figured I'd ask before I place an order.

The other area I assume gets the screw in posts with the black plastic sleeves in the white area, but I'm not sure what's supposed to be on the other side. It's where the spinner goes. I'm out of the black plastic sleeves too.

Thanks for any help!

IMG_1541-2.JPG IMG_1540-2.JPG
#473 4 years ago

Thanks Chet. Really appreciate it. Funny that they'd stick a star post in the hole to the right as you won't see it once the plastic goes on. I see now from the indentation in the side rail where the spinner side mounts. In the second picture, I'm assuming a black plastic sleeve goes in the spot where the lowest circle is to secure the plastic piece that goes there?

#475 4 years ago

Thanks, the playfield was my first attempt at a restore using Vid's guide. It wasn't horrible, but a lot of raised inserts and wear and planking in spots. Most of the insert paint came off when I removed the mylar.

I've noticed my "3000 w/Lit" plastic is clear, most I've seen in pictures are yellow.

I actually meant the hole to the right of the 3000 insert (bottom of the picture), but once I put the plastic on it looks like just an extra hole as nothing could fit there. You can barely see it from my camera angle. It doesn't go very deep.

I don't know how I could have lost those two smooth metal spacers. I'm sure as soon as I order them I'll find them on my workbench in some stupid place.

#478 4 years ago

Damn I'm high maintenance. Another picture request. The wires for the switch towards the end of the habitrail that dumps the ball onto the right spinning disc has falling off. Can someone snap a picture of the wire orientation on that switch and post it please?

Thanks!

#481 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballholder:

I assume that's what you were looking for.

That's it, thanks much!

1 month later
#521 4 years ago

I'm almost finished with my Whirlwind, but am having problems with the bumper lighting. I must have the bumper sockets wired up incorrectly. I'm attaching a picture of how my top bumpers are wired up, and the bottom bumpers. If someone can take some good pictures of theirs and either post them or email them to me I'd really appreciate it!

The first on is the top bumpers. The second one is the lower bumpers. The only bumper that lights is the upper right bumper. All others and the cellar lights don't light up.

IMG_1610.JPG IMG_1611.JPG
#522 4 years ago

One other request. Can someone verify the correct coil for the cellar kick-out? Mine is very anemic even after a new sleeve. The solenoid table call for an AE-23-800 but the assembly parts list calls for a AE-26-1500.

#526 4 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Did you hit the advance Jet bumper target to see if that lights any of the other bumpers? The game starts out with just one upper and one lower bumper lit.

Yes, in the "all lamps" testing, only the upper right bumper lights. All other bumpers and both cellar lights do not light.

#528 4 years ago

Figured out my issue. In Toyotaboy's last picture you can barely see that they had connected and soldered two of the bumper light socket leads together. They did the same on the other set. I didn't have these connected when I stapled them back to the board. Once jumpered, all lights are working.

#529 4 years ago

Got to really play WW for the first time last night. Got the Super Cellar award twice, awesome! I've gotten a little better as a player, I was never close to this back in the day. Quite the bonus!

#544 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeroen:

Here are two pics. First one shows connector plugged in. Second one shows better view of loose wire in the same loom from the insert light backboard which connects to small pcb with realy on it...

WW2.JPG 142 KB

WW3.JPG 193 KB

I believe that goes on the far right pin on J11. Does it come from the display/speaker panel? If you look at the pictures Pinballholder posted you'll see it there. Mine came loose on mine during my restore, so I'm familiar with it.

2 weeks later
#575 4 years ago

This was asked earlier in this thread, but I don't think it was answered. Has anyone used any type of dry lubricant, or wet lubricant for that matter successfully on the gears to quiet them down?

Also, the same question for the fan. When mine is spinning, it's got a "chatter" to it like the shaft has some play in it. I'm wondering if something like some Remington Drylube would work? It's supposed to leave a Teflon film behind. I've also got some SuperLube that I may try.

1 week later
#597 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

This was asked earlier in this thread, but I don't think it was answered. Has anyone used any type of dry lubricant, or wet lubricant for that matter successfully on the gears to quiet them down?
Also, the same question for the fan. When mine is spinning, it's got a "chatter" to it like the shaft has some play in it. I'm wondering if something like some Remington Drylube would work? It's supposed to leave a Teflon film behind. I've also got some SuperLube that I may try.

Update: sprayed my fan assembly with some Remington Dry Lube last night, and it did quiet the fan noticeably. Tried the same on the gears, not a big difference.

#598 4 years ago

How hard is everyone's ramp shot from the upper flipper? Mine takes an almost perfect shot to make it. Everything was rebuilt when I restored the pin. Just wondering if this is typical.

#601 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballholder:

Mine is hard, can go a few games and miss it every time. But I wouldn't say it requires a perfect shot.

Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

Mine is a tough shot too, takes a well timed flip to get it up and all the way around. Should be a tough shot for what you get rewarded with by hitting it.

Thanks for the verification guys. I have Whirlwind sitting next to my Funhouse, and it's so much easier to make the cellar shot on FH than it is to make the WW ramp. I can hit the cellar all day long and twice on Sundays!

1 month later
#619 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

I'm guessing several of you have had this same dilemma. What did you do?

Not to be hyper-critical, but the artwork over the inserts was silkscreened on with the rest of the paint, they aren't decals.

What are you plans for the playfield? I would plan on a lot of the artwork over the inserts to come off with the mylar. If you are buying a decal set, it will include all of the artwork for the inserts. If you don't plan on clear coating the playfield, make sure your decal set already has the mylar. If you are planning on clear coating it, I would make water slide decals. You could by a decals set and scan those in to make your decals.

If you have bubbled mylar over inserts, I'd bet that paint is going to come up with the mylar.

#627 4 years ago
Quoted from TunaSled:

This shot is supposed to be difficult. It's notorious. Try for the 3-way siren combo ending with this shot. It doesn't pay well in points but it sure does in satisfaction. Left orbit between the pops, upper flipper around the small loop, then finally the millions ramp. You'll be paid in bacon, tits and beer.

I think I've figured out why my ramp shot was proving so difficult. I put a cliffy on my ramp entrance, and the left edge was not flush with the edge of the ramp. A ball could hit that edge of the cliffy and bounce as the cliffy flexed, killing its momentum. I loosened the ball guide on the left and tucked the edge of the cliffy behind it and now I have a nice clean shot up the ramp.

#628 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

Interestingly, (or maybe this is the norm), all of the bubbles appear over the inserts. (There are also a couple of edges that are coming up.) I don't plan on clearcoating. The playfield appears to be in really good shape, so I am confident I would end up making things worse. Thanks for the info on the decals, as I was thinking a decal is a decal and was actually wondering if they were waterslide. So, can I infer you are recommending to leave it as it is and only attack it if, after cleaning, it looks like crap. Related to this, as I mentioned many of the directional arrows on the compass have worn away in whole or in part. Is there a best way to remove the residual bits and pieces on some of the inserts?

Post some nice detailed pictures of the playfield and I'm sure you'll get more advice.

I think Vid recommends using a chisel in his playfield restoration thread. You don't "chisel" the paint off so much as put the chisel perpendicular to the insert and use it to scrape the paint off.

#637 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

So in between fighting an issue with the special solenoid for the top right jet (thread in the tech forum), I am cleaning up plastics. I have a replacement for one (broken) that has the sign riveted to it. I'm curious to know if people rivet or just use screws and nuts to attach the sign to a new plastic.

I bought the kit from Pinrestore that turns a Harbor Freight press into a rivet press. It works well, but I'm very close to getting the longer die. The shorter one that comes in the kit will work in 90% of the jobs you need to do, but there are times that it doesn't. http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

2 weeks later
#653 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

Per an earlier post, can someone tell me what the standard right side ramp movements are? For example, is the ramp up or down when you start a game? What action will then move it to the opposite position?
Secondly, when the ramp changes positions do the coils fire multiple times or just once? (On my game, the arm that moves the ramp up and down will fire several times, with nothing happening. I'm just trying to determine if this is normal...as in the system sends the signal multiple times to ensure it is at the proper state)
Thanks

Your switch isn't working. When mine wasn't working it would continually fire the solenoid to make sure the ramp was down when a new game was started. With the glass off you could hear it, and you can see the ramp move slightly. Mine needed the switch blade adjusted. It took a few bends to get it working. It's a PITA to get that assembly apart and then re-installed.

Pull the switch out of the assembly and make sure it works in the switch edge test. If it does, put it back in the assembly and keep adjusting the switch blade until it shows activated when the arm that lowers the ramp is in the down position.

5 months later
#747 3 years ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

I'm having the ball not staying in the saucer hole under the ramp maybe 3 out of 10 shots. I have added a piece of dampening rubber to the backstop and slight bend downward. Also the red plastic scoop has been lowered with a row of washers. The hole has no wear. Its an original clearcoated so its definitely faster than stock. Any other ideas?

Was this an additional piece? It's supposed to have a blue rectangular block that you see Williams use quite often. You could also try loosening the screws holding the deflector and change the angle a bit to see if it helps. Maybe it's not exactly square to the hole?

#749 3 years ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

It used a blue block? I've never seem that and I've had 4. I used some beer seal and lowered the saucer an additional washer. Only happens every once in awhile instead of every time. I will grab a blue block during my next pin parts order

You can see it in this picture from Ed Cheung's website.

whirlwind__block.jpg

#761 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Here's a question:
Has anyone ever heard the spinner make a sound?
-mof

Yes, it makes a sound as it changes the lit cellar reward.

1 month later
#793 3 years ago

No issues with the Cliffy's on mine. Both cellar shots easily made. Can you take a picture of it installed and post it? Something sounds like it's amiss.

4 weeks later
#817 3 years ago
Quoted from sulli10:

Starting to spend more time on the pin. What a great game. Compared to todays complex rule sets it is simpler but very rewarding. Really glad I picked this up. 2 questions.
Question: Has any one removed the play field mylar and replaced the insert decals? How did that work out? My play field is pretty nice except that the decal inserts under the mylar have broken down over time.
I was reading that the original translights has a "W" sticker put over the "C" for Cubs on the kids baseball cap. It looks like my translight has the sticker. Question: has any one removed the sticker and how did that work out?

I would leave the mylar alone unless you are planning on having the playfield clear coated afterwards. It can be a lot of work to get all of the old paint off for the new decals, get the inserts level with the playfield, etc.

Mine didn't have the sticker so I can't really comment on that. I'd think it should come off pretty easily given the material translights are made of.

3 weeks later
#831 3 years ago
Quoted from TBatti:

So my ramp stays stuck up most of the time now. If I giggle the lever sometimes it will come down in a new game. Any advice on what to look for to fix the ramp?

Also check the switch that indicates when the ramp is up or down. It's got a long, bent arm and they have been known to bend or break over the years.

1 month later
#865 3 years ago
Quoted from practicalsteve:

Any tips on how to help a loud fan other than buying the 89$ replacement part from Marcos?

When I had mine apart I sprayed the motor with "Remington Rem-lube" or something like that. It's a cleaning/lubricating product that supposed to leave behind a light coating of silicone. I'll look for it when I get home. It seemed to quiet mine down.

#874 3 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

anyone know where I can get a replacement lift ramp? Mine just cracked off the hinge
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=510

Why not make your own? I've made my own plastic protectors with Lexan sheets purchased from a hobby store.

2 months later
#1071 3 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

For that price why didn't they redo your white areas? Those areas need to be whitened again to make your lighting perfect ,and even with white leds the areas will show as being yellowed. I completely redo all of my whites on all of my restorations.

That's a tier 3 restoration I believe. Next level, more $$.

1 week later
#1100 3 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

Im in..... finally. Got this saaad example for a grand! Time to work some magic and bring this thing back to life. Whats the deal with the golden topper? Original? Painted?

$1000? You did good! If the fan motor and disk motor work you've got a great deal. Plus, you got the golden topper! That entitles you to a tour of the Williams pinball factory! I hope Grampa Joe is up for it!

willy-wonka-golden-ticket_(resized).jpg

6 months later
#1332 2 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Looking for some help in adjusting the saucer kickout from under the right ramp. I can't seem to get it to come out and hug the ball guide properly. What's the best way to adjust this mech? I have tried placing new springs with different tensions but with no luck(either pops out too hard or doesn't have enough to get out of the saucer).
Any suggestions?

Are you 100% sure you are level left to right?

2 months later
#1415 2 years ago
Quoted from thunder001:

Today I rebuilt my left flipper and now hitting the toll way ramp is now very difficult compared to how it was before I did the rebuild on the flipper. The new flipper is now stronger making it hard to hit that ramp. Any way to make the flipper not as strong?

Just play it for a while before you make any changes. Your timing will adjust to the rebuild and you'll be nailing it again in no time.

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