Hey all.
New club member. Usual broken plastics. Don't really want to order a full set. Almost all of the plastic is good, including the slings.
I ordered cliffy's and protectors, but buying a full set seems like a waste. I really only need like 5-6 new pieces.
Advice?

Here are the ones I need. Thanks in advance.

WHIRLWIND_PLASTICS_BROKEN (resized).JPG

Should I just buy the full set?

Hey guys, anyone have LED recommendations? I want to put LEDs in for the BP (Back Panel) thunder and lightning #906 flashers as well as the #555's under the pop bumper caps. Thoughts?

I assume everyone is using white?

Why did you have to point them down? Just curious.

OK, I'm considering a full LED set, anyone have a favorite vendor?

I was also thinking about just doing the GI has anyone ever done that?

Cointaker $234.95 Premium Non-Ghosting

Pinballbulbs $224.95 Ultimate "Note: as part of the install of this game for flashers, you will need to remove the warming resistors which is standard for system 11 game."

Comet doesn't have a kit yet. What do you guys think and did you have to remove the resistors on yours??? Have to say I'm leaning torwards Pinballbulbs right now. I don't trust companies who can't spell "components" (see image) lol.

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What kind of bulbs would you recommend from Comet for this game? I'm an LED noob.

A LOT of these are out of stock - what the heck...

Some changes made to the list based on discussion with Comet and some bulbs being discontinued - what do you guys think?

LEDs needed for CONTROLLED LAMPS/INSERTS:
1 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS NON GHOSTING BULB
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm

Bayonet FROSTED:
2 - Warm White - (Middle Standup, Shoot again)
1 - Green - (LOCK (Right Ramp))
6 - Natural White - (2 TOLLS (Right Ramp), RELEASE (left Ramp), SHOT (Skill Shot Right), SKILL (Skill Shot Middle), SUPER (Skill Shot Left), Spinner)
3 – Red - (MILLION PLUS (L Ramp), NE (R Standup-R Ramp)) (Left Cellar Sign)
3 - Orange/Amber - (MILLION (Left Ramp), SE (Right Loop), SE (Right Standup Target))
1 - Yellow (Right Cellar Sign)

Bayonet, CLEAR:
2 - Warm White (NW (Left Standup), NW (L Standup-R Ramp)

Wedge FROSTED:
18 - Natural White (Top Drop 50K, Top Drop 75K, Top Drop 100K, Top Drop 150K, Toll 1, Toll 2, Toll 3, Toll 4, Toll 5, 2X, 3X) (All Backglass Awards (Up Jets On, 250K, Ex. Ball On, 3-Bank 100K, 500K, Lite Million, Low Jets On))
7 - Orange/Amber (Top Drop QUICK, SE Compass Arrow, Toll 30, Toll 20, Toll 10, 4X, 5X)
1 - Warm White (NW Compass Arrow)
3 – Green (SW Compass Arrow, SW (Left Loop), SW (Inner Loop Arrow))
7 – Red (SPECIAL (Left Outlane), SPECIAL (Right Outlane), Top Drop Ex. Ball, NE Compass Arrow, NE (Left Return Lane), 6X Lites Ex. Ball, 6X Lites Special)

6 LED 6.3V AC/DC BRILLIANT CRYSTAL FAN SHAPE LED http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smdfan.htm
Wedge:
3 - Red (Right Top Jet Bumper, Left Top Jet Bumper, Lower Top Jet Bumper)
3 - Warm White (Left Bottom Jet Bumper, Top Bottom Jet Bumper, Right Bottom Jet Bumper,

4 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS NON GHOSTING *EXCLUSIVE* http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/4smd3528-ng.htm
Wedge:
4 - Natural White (S Compass Arrow, W Compass Arrow, N Compass Arrow, E Compass Arrow)

LEDs needed for GI LIGHTS:
1 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS 5050 BULB
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050.htm
Bayonet, Frosted:
58 - Natural White (21 playfield GI, 35 Required for Backbox GI, 2 Required for coin door)
Wedge Frosted:
5 - Natural White (behind lightning cloud in back of cabinet)

FLASHERS
#906 FLASHER
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8smdflash.htm
10 - Natural White (3x Lightning Cloud in back of cabinet, Million, Compass, Spinner, Upper Jets, Lower Jets, 3-Drop Target, Middle Target)
5 – Red (Bottom Rt, Ramp Top, Ramp Upper Middle, Ramp Lower Middle, Ramp Bottom (inside domes)

Hi everyone...

I purchased a new plastic set from Bay Area Amusements (Planetary)

My set has a piece 31-1006-574-4-SP (Image 3 pictured) missing a hole.
You can even see where the hole was supposed to be punched when you shine a light thru.

Images 1 & 2 are from my original piece, which had a black plastic post and a cloud mounted on it (circled in red from the set).

Can you guys please let me know what your games look like? Include photos where possible.

On another note, how did you guys handle the black plastic posts that kind of pop into the plastics and lock? The don't appear reusable and were not included in the set.

Personally, I find this odd that he wants me to drill my plastic and that this hasn't ever come up before?

Thanks!

---------------Rick's response------------------

Hi Adam, this is rick the owner responding to your issue. I looked at the part and the blueprints (see picture from original WMS blueprint for that part) which call for only 3 holes. So, the 'correct' part has only 3 holes, and this is what all the sets are made to (note that we have been selling these for several years and yours is the first with an issue on this part regarding missing holes). We also used example sets off original games to verify the sets before production, and again, 3 holes on the ones we had.

So, what is the reason? We've been doing this a long time, and there are a few causes
a) Someone modified the game and installed an extra post (usually for ball traps, etc)
b) There were multiple variations when produced (sometimes two different producers, etc)
c) Possibly some error at Williams regarding blueprints (unlikely as we have had no other issues reported on this part).

SO, that is the background - any of the options above are more common that we would like, and creates headaches for everyone. At least in this case it is a missing hole vs an extra hole which is more of a problem.

The best solution that I can think of is to simply yourself or someone with a drill mark and drill the missing hole, as otherwise there is no good solution on this. A simple drilling of the hole will rectify the problem and it is the most simple thing to do.

Please let us know.
Thanks,
Rick

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image1 (resized).jpeg

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image3 (resized).jpeg

Well it should be there, need to fix this so others don't have this problem in the future, yes?

Rick told me to drill it myself and if I ruined my plastic he would replace it.

Still doesn't change the fact that he thinks what he is selling isn't wrong. What blows me away is that the replacement plastics include the little cloud. If there isn't a hole, how are you supposed to install the replacement could you just bought? That right there tells me this set is incorrect. Plus, the protectors I bought from Marco have the hole.

What size did you use for your slings? The ones I bought were too tight.

Will a NTE 3.9-Ohm, 5-Watt, 5% Tolerance, Wire Wound, Power Resistor work the same as a 4-Ohm, 5-Watt, 10% Tolerance Ceramic Resistor? Trying to fix my flashers on the left side of the back box board. Nothing appears to be available w/ 10% tolerance as shown in the video. The part number he says to order shows 5%.... confusing!

What this guy says I need to order and will cost $10!
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/280-CR5-4.0-RC

What I can get in town here:
https://www.frys.com/product/471935

Does anyone know when the bulbs underneath the flashers go off in the lightning plastic in the back? I've never seen them lit.

Well that sucks - mine aren’t on. It appears that the connection is not connected, It was floating loose in the back of the box. It’s like a purple and white and a white and purple wire. I can’t find anything to connect to that matches. Can someone please post a picture of the connection for the power on the back of the lightning cloud board?

I’m getting two balls in the shooter lane when I have one ball locked. I checked all the trough and lock lane switches they’re all testing good with the switch edges test. I cannot figure out what the heck is going on and I happens almost every time. However this is the only time this happens. Help! Thanks in advance!

nope. got the right balls (3).

Yep, totally did that too.

So, this was it. Although I don't think it was a grounding issue. I think that the switch was getting stuck on the eject mech. It was pretty much touching it. I bent it so it wasn't touching. Problem solved. I tried to replicate a grounding contact issue by pushing the wire to touch the eject mech and it didn't cause the ball to come out early. Any case, thanks for all the help everyone!

So I’m finally working on the last two issues on my game. The first one is that I have now bought two springs from two different places and I still can’t get the ball to go all the way back around to the flipper. It seems kind of odd - the first I bought was from bay area amusements and it seemed week the second spring from Marco is also seeming kind of weak, it only good gets it up to the bumpers and I’m wondering if it’s the spring or is it the lane guide? Somebody told me I might need a certain kind of spring? Advice?

The other issue is that my spinner is not registering. I got a brand new switch and the switch works perfectly if I touch it but the action of the spinner is not making the switch engage. Does anyone have any advice on this and could people please post pictures of their spinner and underneath how the switch is connected to the spinner? I’m wondering if I’m missing a part?

self bump - what do you guys think?

I recently did a full swap. I have the old ones. Most of the expected broken ones are broken tho.