You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider RobDutch.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
I bought a Whirlwind that was stored in a very damp basement for 12/15 years (those maniacs.. ) and I'm trying to get it up and running again.
I've got a problem with the displays: the upper one doesn't work at all, and the bottom one worked fine an hour ago but is doing weird stuff now. (see vids)
Read something about U41 that it could be damaged because of leaking batteries, but mine is fine with no damage at all.
Connector 1J10 on the CPU Board is burnt, but I believe that's not the cause of the display problems. (correct me if I'm wrong)
Does anyone have a clue what it could be or where I should look first?
Display working fine:
Display doing weird stuff:
Quoted from GRUMPY:The strobe for that digit is stuck on, that is why its so bright. It will burn out the display if you keep running it.
That's how far I come with knowing what the problem is haha, now to find the cure
Quoted from GRUMPY:The strobes come from U-44. Disconnect the J-1 and J-2 connectors so not to burn the display. Then test the outputs of U-44 pins 1-11 and 13-17 with a logic probe. Note down the pin that isn't pulsing.
Thank you GRUMPY , will try!
Also found this page so I have some things to test haha http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index2.htm#cpuled
Quoted from GRUMPY:The strobes come from U-44. Disconnect the J-1 and J-2 connectors so not to burn the display. Then test the outputs of U-44 pins 1-11 and 13-17 with a logic probe. Note down the pin that isn't pulsing.
I don't know if my logic probe just doesn't work well or if the outputs are okay, but they all seem to pulse..
Also tested R1 and R4 resistors on the power supply board and they are 41k omh instead of 39k ohm, could that cause the displayproblems?
Quoted from GRUMPY:You can narrow down the problem to strobes 1-8 or 9-16 by disconnecting J-1 or J-2 on the display board. Once you have figured out which strobes are the problem, then check the appropriate NOR gates for pulsing on the outputs. Let me know what you find.
[quoted image]
Okay I narrowed it down to J-2, if I pull that connector out of the CPU board than the display doesn't strobe anymore.
Will measure the pins and look at U45 (7402) later.
I'll keep you updated!
Edit: After I check the CPU board, I'll check the display board. (also because one of the displays is not working)
My lower and upper right flipper work correctly, but my left flipper doesn't.
Once I press the flipperbutton, the flipper flips and it stays up and doesn't go down again.
I checked the eos switch and the gap was the same as on the other flippers (that work).
It keeps blowing F6 on the aux power board.
Anyone got a clue?
Does anyone know how to make the spinning disks less noisy? (Apart from letting them spin slow or turning them off lol)
Quoted from yaksplat:The poorly designed gears are just loud because they don't mesh well. Short of designing new gears, there's nothing that can be done.
Hahaha that's what I suspected, designing new gears would be a pita So I guess I will take it apart and try to clean/lube it. Have to adjust the height/position of the disks too and also add new (sandpaper) decals.
Quoted from northerndude:Crank the volume up
We live in a bungalow without direct neighbours so why not
On my Whirlwind I am missing these (and original parts/remade parts are nowhere to be found near me or very expensive) :
-Triac board
-Blower motor
-Fan blade
-Mounting plate for blower motor
I don't want to pay full dollar to fix it and I don't care if parts are original or not.
Does anyone have advice for me on buying something like a relais board, a motor and a fan blade?
I can design a mounting plate myself and 3d print it here.
Quoted from dozer1:You guys might get lucky and be able to piece together a fan from used parts here and there. My guess is probably not though, and if Marco has it all, I would say go for it. Even the fan motor bracket. It is 21.00 for a new one. Can you really 3-D print a plastic one and beat that?
The Problem is the price..
On top of the €135 shopping cart, will be €72 of shipping, and 21% of taxes (hooray for living in the Netherlands)... Total amount is about $270 for these 3 items And I would still have to find a triac board then, or something else that works..
Screenshot_2020-02-23-13-55-37 (resized).png
So I saved this classic pin from a damp basement a while ago. It had been standing there for over 15 years. I knew it had the following problems, but decided to get it playing 100% first. Now the time has come to tackle this problem:
My playfield (that I'm about to clean for the first time), has planking. At the end of the ruler (30cm) the difference is about 2/3mm. The middle of the playfield around the compass is higher then the outlanes, so now it drains even more then it should In the vertical direction it suffers from the same in the lower playfield area.
Also I have got these vertical lines and swirls (?), anything I can do about those? I do have a playfield cleaner but I don't think it will remove the this problem.
The playfield does have mylar that is kinda dirty and has some raised inserts, thinking of leaving it on and trying to hammer the inserts down
If anyone has advice for me: I am all ear
Thanks in advance!
Cleaning the playfield as gently as possible with the least strong cleaning stuff I could find, and the paint still chips of a bit.
So I have got my answers to the questions above: just enjoy this players machine
Thanks @dozer1, mbaumle and Manimal for the messages and advice
Will leave my hammer in the toolbox!
Also I have the problem that my spinning disks are not flush with the playfield and not centered in the holes. They really slow the ball down and move the ball in a different direction when not spinning. I can only adjust them in hight right? That will not fix my problem.. Anyone advice on how to do this without a hammer?
After this is fixed, I can finally place my new disk decals!
20200307_174015_HDR (resized).jpgMy playfield is crooked compared to my cabinet as you can see on the photos.
On the left bottom side the playfield has a lot of room, while on the right bottom side it touches the inside of the cab.
Anything I can do about this?
I don't know if the hinges are the problem or the cabinet itself.
Quoted from Jr99svt:you probably already checked this, but, Is your cabinet level side to side in both the front and the back?
Haven't checked this, will do tomorrow thanks
Quoted from dmacy:It’s common for the tubes/spacers to have a groove worn in them. Take the nut off and pull it out. After that and it’s ok, you can loosen the screws on the hinges and get some movement there. Then retighten.
That might be it, will try! Is this possible to do alone or do I need someone to support the playfield? And can these tubes/spacers be bought somewhere?
Quoted from Squeakman:Sometimes if you move a pin and don’t set it down square it can actually twist slightly causing clearance problems for the playfield. I had it happen once. Sometimes if you pick the front of the game up and set it down slowly and evenly it will correct itself. Or it could be any of the things mentioned above.
Well it has been moved from storage, to garage to gameroom.. So this could be it too!
The game had been sitting for 15 years in the most damp basement I had ever seen, so the cab can be warped as well..
Out of the club to make some room so my Whirlwind is for sale: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/96934
Truly a great game which I hope to buy again in some years
Quoted from RobDutch:Out of the club to make some room so my Whirlwind is for sale: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/96934
Truly a great game which I hope to buy again in some years[quoted image][quoted image]
Decided to pull my game of the marketplace and to keep it for some more time.
Going to fix the topper!
I currently only have a brand new topper dome and everyone who had interest in the game, really wanted a fully functioning topper so..
Missing the motor, fan blade, bracket, triac board and wiring so this will be interesting!
You will hear from me
20200605_162312_HDR (resized).jpg
Could anyone provide me with some measurements of the original topper bracket (including angle) please?
My game came without it (and the dome, motor, fan blade, wiring and triac board) and I'm designing my own bracket with a different motor so with different holes.
The bracket will be 3d printed
Thanks very much in advance!
detail (resized).jpgQuoted from yaksplat:This had be posted somewhere before.
[quoted image]
Wow yaksplat you are my hero!
I googled it and found some measurements but not all.
With this drawing I can make most of my 3d drawing, thank you very much
Is there a way to make the blower (topper) spin faster?
I can hardly feel the power of the wind..
Feels more like a breeze then a whirlwind
Help much appreciated!
Quoted from northerndude:Wow, mines too windy, gets annoying if I can’t hit the ramp
Haha that sucks too, but you're in a Whirlwind at least
I don't feel it at all unfortunately..
Are there tricks to make the spinning disks more quiet?
I know you can change the settings
Already took them apart and cleaned them, but they are still super noisy.. (A deafening unpleasant noise that is unbearable to listen to with the glass off)
And what I also did is put a noise dampening mat inside the cab.
Mine will be for sale soon for less then $3k!
But pick up only...in the Netherlands
Whirlwind prices don't seem too crazy here..
My Whirlwind is for sale for $2800 and open to offers: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/103143
1 note: only pick up in the Netherlands, I will not ship.
Quoted from RobDutch:My Whirlwind is for sale for $2800 and open to offers: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/103143
1 note: only pick up in the Netherlands, I will not ship.[quoted image]
Sale pending
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:That looks really nice! Good luck.
Thank you!
It just got sold so I'm out of the club...
Hope to be back someday as it is a great machine, it just had to go now to make room for a project pin
Working on a Whirlwind from a friend and it has a weird sound issue.
The music sounds perfect and most of the sounds too, but the speech sounds wrong.
It sounds a bit tinny or something, not like the Whirlwind I used to own a few years ago
Anyone ever had this problem or knows of a cure?
The owner of the Whirlwind I'm working on wants to have lights and flashers inside of the topper. Did anyone in this group ever do this or have advice for me?
Thinking of installing a few sockets with leds hooked up to the gi, and flashers hooked up to the backbox flashers. Should these flashers be leds so the wiring/boards/connectors won't get damaged?
Problem with my friends game:
Fuse F7 (4A slow blow) on the aux power driver board keeps blowing after a few balls.
Everything works during play untill the fuse blows.
No coils lock on at start up so I don't think any of the transistors are the problem.
My friend says all connectors are well in place.
The game worked fine when it was here..
Anyone got an idea on where to start searching?
Help is greatly appreciated!
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider RobDutch.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whirlwind-club-members-only?tu=RobDutch and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.