Interesting.
While I'm not in the club, I did get a playfield. (I love the art, and love compass roses. And, yeah - I may own a game eventually!)

I noticed the dither line on the lock area right away, but didn't notice it across the middle of the PF until it was pointed out here. I DID notice the slight color change from the dithered blue/green under the ramp to the flat blue up above the bumpers.

Those don't really bother me, all in all - especially considering the condition of the playfields out in games I've seen..

However, I DID notice this and was wondering if anyone else has this:
MB8sFWy (resized).jpg
Looks like art was misaligned from the insert - that's a little bare wood there. (For the full-size image, check here: http://i.imgur.com/MB8sFWy.jpg)
On the full-size image, you can also see the stairstepping in the artwork (what, is this 100dpi?) in the border between the artwork gree arrow cap and the white cloud.

All in all, I'm happy with it.

Interesting - I couldn't see those marks in the clear on my phone, but now on my laptop, I can. I don't have those in mine, my clearcoat's just about perfect. The wood cuts are rough from clear 'splatter', but that shouldn't affect anything.

Considering some of the Whirlwind games I've seen out there - I would, and I did. In case I ever GET a game. (Which, I hope I do, someday!) Clear can be fixed, also, if it's that big of an issue.

Apparently they also used the wrong color 'Shoot Again' insert?

Which one is correct?

For the record, I'd like to say that yeah, from seeing ya'll post comparison pics, the PFs aren't error-free. However, I'll add in that I'm not sorry I got it, as most of the Whirlwinds I've seen for sale have had completely trashed playfields. Especially around the spinners. So, IMHO, I'd rather pick up a project game with a trashed PF for under a grand and drop this baby into it.

Yeah, both of yours look more yellowish, matching the earlier CPR's run.

The signature looks authentic. It matches Pat's signature on my TZ translight. (I will get a picture soon - the game is still wrapped up after the York show.)

I have a gold from their second (recent) run, and I have no dimples.

That pic from their site may be from their first run, though.

First two digits are year. Next three digits are day of the year. (Jan 1st - "001").

The manual.
Seriously, I believe the manual shows a simplified wiring diagram of how the flashers should be hooked up, including what plugs are used in the back.

One wire should always be 20v or so, and the other is the driver.

A couple quick rules question, guys -
First - does the lock area (left side of playfield, not under the ramp) ever hold 3 balls before starting Multiball? (Every time I play, the 'third ball' to start multiball is captured under the ramp.)
Second - At the start of the game, are the direction arrows randomized, or is it always NW and SW? (I think?)
Third - What is the max number of tolls allowed to be collected in a game?

Thanks!

Awesome, thanks!

Sounds like you may have a bad switch. When there is a bad switch, the knocker will fire at bootie, and the screen will give a message.

Likely you have the blades TOO close together, and a good solid hit, the CPU sees the switch 'close', but misses the quick opening of the contacts..

Oh! Okay, didn't know that. I ran into that issue on my Meteor - I wanted the spinner to score well, and at the adjustment I had it, it would award, then freeze and jump the score until it slowed down.

Don't know if they fit Whirlwind or not, but they are microswitch covers for Entropy coin doors.

Backbox, you mean? (I see 'header', and I keep thinking of something baseball-related..)

Silly, and possibly idiot question..
Could you not have bent the wireform slightly (middle to the downward left direction in the image) so that the end tip of the metal form was outside the post's rubber?

COuld be, or your driver wire, could be bare and shorted to ground somewhere on the playfield, too.

Assuming you checked this, by disconnecting the connector that supplies the driver wire to the coil while leaving the power connector connected? (Sorry, don't know the J-numbers offhand..)

Xenon!

It's in the WPC Schematics document (16-9473-1), page 1. Pinouts for the 9-pin connector for all world voltages.

No. WMS never ever had those stickers. It's likely a CPR.

... Your fuses BETTER be shorted, or else they're blown and need to be replaced.

Holy heck..

Okay, first step in troubleshooting ANYTHING:

Undo every mod and get the (affected) area/region to stock. Because without that, you could waste a lot of time following red-herrings around.

I swear, I'm surprised noone has said it yet, but the machine's NAME is the wrong color, yes?

FYI, a 'solid yellow' is just a jumper. If any switch or lamp has a solid yellow, then trace the wire back to where it meets with a colored wire.

5 watt, 680ohm, 5%.
Ceramic, but not that that really matters.

Honestly, all of them would work.
I would go for one that was the same, ceramic packed style, so the Yageo SQP500JB-680R is a good match.

Good!
It will help with heat distribution if, when soldering on the new one, lift it AWAY from the PCB by some, leaving air to flow completely around it. That way, if something happens, it won't start to cook the PCB.

It's called a "translight", and they were used in a LOOOT of Williams/Midway/Bally games in the 90s. That's normal.

https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/GgFeBNm8xdM

Carefully... CAREFULLY drill out the rivets.

IMHO, it does not follow the game's theme. To me, this is like releasing MMR v3.0 and turning it into a Marvel Avengers pin.
I'm sure a lot of effort went into it, but to my it looks like someone with a short attention span kept getting distracted by themes and wanting to work everything into it at once.

I am, actually, quite honored that my downvote means this much to you and the team that developed this.

Holy heck.

Holy crap, those inserts. That's gotta be a Mirco repro?

Intersting - those inserts show a rough sanding pattern - which Mirco had (still has?) a reputation for doing. I've never seen that on ANY Midway Mfg machine before in my life. Those inserts should be clear to color, and not look like they have a layer of sandpaper over them.

I mean, compare the S arrow and the multiplier inserts to this - https://www.ipdb.org/images/2765/image-37.jpg You should be able to see the pattern in the inserts..

Huh, admittedly, I thought Whirlwind was the first maching made under the conglomerate 'Midway'. I'll have to look that up now!

Yeah - studying that other pic, I see what you're seeing now. Okay, not a Mirco, but that is odd. I swear, having been an operator in the 90's (literally starting in 1990), I never, ever saw that on a production playfield before - BUT, I admit I also never tried to remove mylar like that. If my playfields ever got bad, it was the in/outlanes or high-traffic areas, clear/paint just wears. Never had inserts do that.

Yup! You're good! The video gives a great better image than that one pic did - so yeah, I retract my statement - that's original. And despite the inserts looking like that, it looks in fabulous condition.