I think you may have found your issue.

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It looks like you found it. The green and yellow stripe wire should connect to the other Green/yellow wire. Same with the Gray with yellow stripe wires.

This was it! Thanks!!

Normally I never use colored GI in the inserts but I had a couple left over from a job I did and put them in the bottom of the playfield and I actually think that it looks good.

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Does anyone happen to know which Krylon color or paint code matches the blue board that's right behind the cloud plastic in the rear of the playfield? Thanks

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So I just got a Whirl Wing a few weeks ago. Wondering if this is typical. I noticed sometimes the right ramp will open up and allow me to hit the saucer. At this point though, the left inlane is lit, but the ramp is up and can't get it there. It will just go into the saucer and kick it out right away. Surely the game doesn't expect me to shatz here.

This is how the game operates. The lift ramp lowers by default when the ball lock is lit and the beginning of each game. It’ll only raise after a shot to the cellar, or if it’s trying to balance ball locks when multiple players are playing.

(It’ll also raise to lock a ball for quick multiball, and the 3rd final lock/release for the 1st multiball)

When raised, the saucer will still score skyway tolls, but it’s harder to spam the shot to rack them up like you can on Earthshaker. A shot to the cellar—lit or unlit—will lower the ramp again.

Need some help, finished swapping my playfield, and apparently did not take good pictures of all the connectors. i have this connector between the CPU board and the aux power driver board that I cant find a connection for, and I don't have a label on it. not sure if the label came off or is a connector that is just not connected. can someone tell me where or if this even plugs in?

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here you go.

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another one

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ahh the orange connector threw me off. Thanks!

The closest I could find when I painted my cabinet was Behr Mayan Treasure. Found it at Home Depot. That wood playfield panel uses the same color blue as the cabinet.

Does anyone know how to remove the topper fan? Looks like some type of clip but don't want to damage anything.

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I ended up getting the fan blade off (no problems) as you can see the motor is pretty grungy. How would you guys go about cleaning it? Also... how do you oil the motor? Thanks

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How do you replace the stickers of the spinning disks??
Place the new ones on top of the old or try to peel the old ones then stick the new ones??

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Peel the old ones

Yes, this! Mine came off easier than I expected. I raised the discs up to get them away from the playfield and then used a sharp razor blade to get in between the decal and the plastic underneath. Left almost no residue and then wiped throughly with 91% alcohol.

What I didn’t anticipate when I put the new stickers down was to account for their off center printing. I did a pretty good job of centering the decal on the disc but they look off center when they spin because the art isn’t quite centered on the circle.

Good luck!

Done!!
Thank you for the suggestions

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How well do they work?
I ordered some, then read they don’t grip as well so I’m still spinnin’ the old faded ones. Which work really well still but look terrible.

I'm still reassembling the playfield. I'll let you know when back together

I've had my replacements for a year now and have never had any trouble or lifting. I peeled up the old ones and stuck the new ones down, didn't even clean it off

No, I heard they don't grip the balls as well!
thatswhatshesaid

An unexpected failure during the game today

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Probably makes the shot a bit less predictable.

That is certainly an issue. Did this happen by striking a ball?

I got some paint mixed at Sherwin Williams and thru trial and error got a color and sheen that was really close after about 10 times

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Mine has the Cubs logo on the hat (which was later forbidden). Everyone have this version?

Meaning this color mix was the 10th try and the one to go for? I’d like to touch up the front facing edge of my back box at some point but I’m not looking to do a full repaint/radcals.

Can you please share a picture of J7 of the lower, I'm afraid I'm missing a wire (gray).
Thank you in advance

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https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/GgFeBNm8xdM

here you go

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Just rejoined. This is my second one. Game has become much more expensive!

This one is planted firm.

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Those white legs look great with this cabinet!

And do you have clear rubber on the playfield? Such a thing was recommended to me recently and I thought it might be neat to give it a try. I’m rocking the stock white rubber so far.

I was thinking the same thing about the white legs. Very cool.

Thanks guys. I was debating on keeping the white legs on it, but they've grown on me over the past day or so.

It took me an afternoon to get it 100%. Almost all of the lamp boards under the playfield needed to be re-flowed and there were a few bad diodes on some of the playfield lights, but its now good.

Its a nice example. All of the board serial numbers match and it has a gorgeous cabinet. The playfield is mylared and, of course, there is some bubbling. I am going to leave it alone for now...the horror stories on System 11 mylar removal are pretty scary. It has a bunch of mis-matched LED's so I need to address that along with getting the ramps flame polished new plastics, all of the usual stuff. The topper is pretty yellow so I will try to bring it back to life.

I'm glad to be back. We played it into the evening last night and the whole family really missed it. Just a classic System 11.

Can something be done outside of replacing the housing/decals?

Yes, there are a few thread out there on bringing back some pretty ugly toppers including cracks. Mine is not cracked so I am hoping I can get away giving it a good cleaning, and coating it with some Fusion paint. It appears, as of right now, the topper housings are not available in the US (a couple sellers have them overseas) so I will try to do something until they are back in stock in the states.

I know what you mean about the white growing on you. i was unsure of my recent whitewater staying white, but it's grown on me too. May do the whirlwind to match?

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They can still be purchased if the cleaning is a no go. Check starshipfantasy website. Buying it from the source has the advantage of being about $60 cheaper too!

I melted my lower right flipper coil sleeve to the point it can't be removed. I think it's most likely that I made the EOS switch gap too small - when I installed new flippers and clamps a couple months ago, I made the gap pretty small, wanting to get as full of a stroke as possible, and it must have finally failed to open. But is there anything else I should check for besides correcting the EOS gap before I replace the coil and go back to playing? On the chance that I'm wrong about the EOS switch being the problem?

Did you mess with anything in the backbox immediately prior to the melting? The only time I've ever melted coils was plugging ribbon cables in backwards on a STTNG (horrible to figure out). Assuming you changed no wiring within 3 games of the fault, I think it is safe to say it is the way you hooked up your EOS switch.

No, I haven't been in the backbox in a while. So that's good - looking more likely that I'm solving the correct problem and not just about to ruin a new coil.

Check the flipper coil fuses on the aux power supply, it should have burnt first.

First thing to check is the fuse installed is correctly rated. These should be 2A or 2-1/2A.

If you set the EOS gap too close but enough to open, you may expose the solenoid to excess heat. The fuse may not necessarily blow but the sustained, repeated high power will generate a lot of heat that may melt the magnet wire insulation eventually resulting in a short. The excess heat may also cause the plastic (spool) to soften and warp.

NOT to OP but general audience:

A common mistake is believing that the (correctly rated = FL-11630) solenoid is not powerful enough because a player cannot "make the ramp". This is wrong. It is more likely that player did not hit the shot cleanly. I have seen people put FL-11629 to compensate but this is not necessary. Play better.

I hadn't heard that this was a complaint. My lower left flipper has no issue hitting the main ramp, and my upper right seems fine for hitting the millions ramp. If the shot rattles at all, it comes back, but I don't recall having any clean shots fail to make it all the way around.

My fiddling with the lower right EOS was more in hopes of getting consistent power, not so much increasing power. My lower right flipper has always been off and on with how much power it has, mainly noticed on backhands. I backhand the saucer when the ramp is lifted all the time, and sometimes it shoots authoritatively all the way to the saucer, and sometimes it trickles up there, barely managing to drop over the lip, or not making it at all. Whether I miss the shot or not, I'd like it to come off the flipper with the same energy every time, but it feels like it randomly switches between giving me full power backhands and 50% or less power backhands.

I miss lots of ramp and saucer shots due to sloppy shooting, so I totally own that I need to play better But I'm comparing clean shots to clean shots here.

I'll make sure to check those fuses, thanks!

The proper adjustment on an EOS switch has it opening just before the flipper reaches the fully extended position. So, too big a gap when the

My experience is the same as yours with the backhand. You gotta be perfect to make that shot.

Oh, I'd say there's lots of leeway on backhanding the saucer under the ramp. Those shots can rattle around like crazy and still end up in the saucer. The millions ramp you have to be perfect, but on the saucer backhand my issue wasn't how well I shot, but that sometimes the flipper would have more than enough power to easily get the ball there, and other times the flip would be too weak.

I'm curious to see if a new coil solves the issue.

Hi guys. Does anyone know the part number / size of the little set pin that locks into the metal ramp diverter?

Quick question that I'm sure has a simple fix: my spinner spins fine but is separating from the switch below. Not sure if I have the gap in the rod too large or I'm missing a part. Will snap a picture later this week when I'm at the game.

B-13280? That part is in the manual as "Diverter Arm and shaft Assy". I also found this link with photo with that part number. Not sure if this is what you mean, though.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whirlwind-ramp-diverter-shaft-ball-guide