Sweet, that's an easy one if true. I'll take a good look at that. Thanks for the tip!

I like the ferris wheel but mine had broken pins and was pretty dull and scratched. I wanted to paint it a candy apple red with glitter to really make it look fancy but I was worried any future owners might want the original so I created a replacement ferris wheel and 3d printed it, then painted the replacement.

It looked great but the clear plastic side seemed a bit unimaginative so I whipped up a graphic using struts from a ferris wheel and stuck it onto the plastic. Now to put on the replacement stickers and it is done!

3d print file on thingverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5763124
its just a little bit bigger than the original as I was reading in this thread about how the ball sometimes doesn't come out when its supposed to.

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My Whirlwind doesn’t have a Ferris wheel! Cool idea though.

Does anyone know the part number of the bumper post at the edge of the left ramp? Mine broke, as you can see here: 21C38357-DED5-49F0-B431-69464CD96E33 (resized).jpeg
There’s not enough thread left on top to connect to the rest of the toll ramp support. 3DF9B230-43B6-4A0C-94C4-1BA8C987EE45 (resized).jpeg
I ordered this one, but it’s not correct, it won’t screw into the upper post: https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=02-4056
So either the correct bumper post that fits the upper piece would be helpful, or a different upper piece that fits the bumper post I got!

No part number but just look for a post with 8/32 top and bottom

If you can’t find the right part you can always trim the threaded stud off the top and buy an 8/32 tap kit along with a 8/32 screw. 1” length should be enough to trim off the head and leave you with a clean 3/4” (3/8” into the post, 3/8” into the hex spacer)

I am going off Jmckune’s post, I did not double check the sizes.

I'm in the middle of my first flipper rebuild and I have a question that I haven't been able to find a related answer to. The included EOS leaf switch from the Marco kit has a very long arm that makes contact withe the back end of the tighten-down bolt instead of the insulated L arm. If I cut it shorter, I'll need to bend both arms toward the coil in order for the L arm to push the contacts far enough apart.

Is leaving it like it is a bad idea? Or do I just have the wrong leaf switches?

Flipper Rebuild (resized).JPG

When tightening the eos screws, the switch stack can rotate - is it parallel to the flipper plate?

I noticed that, and yes it is.

I'd snip the long blade of the new one so its hit by the L arm. You can look at the old eos to get the required length. Bending the blades closer won't be an issue.

Yes, bad idea.

When you tightened the pinch bolt to hold the flipper in place, did you have any space between the bushing and the paw?

Those are the correct high voltage EOS switches. You need to trim them down. Like gutz said, use the old EOS switch as a guide, and don't cut it too short. That metal tab with the black plastic cover needs to be able to push the EOS open about 1/8" at full extension. When the flipper is neutral there should be a good parallel contact between the two switch faces. You may need to bend one or both of the switch leafs to get them right.

I'm in the middle of my first flipper rebuild and I have a question that I haven't been able to find a related answer to. The included EOS leaf switch from the Marco kit has a very long arm that makes contact withe the back end of the tighten-down bolt instead of the insulated L arm. If I cut it shorter, I'll need to bend both arms toward the coil in order for the L arm to push the contacts far enough apart.

Is leaving it like it is a bad idea? Or do I just have the wrong leaf switches?

I used the spacer tool (fork) on top, which allows for a little play up and down if I pull the flipper from the top. I assume that's the intent.

I think I've got the first flipper rebuild done, it seems to work without issue.

I've also not seen any more phantom sweeping scores after re-flowing solder on both sides of the pin connector on the 3 bank opto board. Just a couple games tested though since I still have two more flippers to do. Should go faster next time.

Flipper rebuild complete. Fine tuned flipper angles and replaced rubbers with polyurethane. No more contact with metal on the upper right flipper at full stroke and basically no ball hop anymore either. Had my best game yet on the second game after completing rebuild. Not sure how much each of the two changes made but I was able to hit 3 multi-millions in a single multiball. Still enjoying the hell out of this game.

My diverter keeps raising itself until it’s a little above the ramp every couple of games. Is there a fix for this?

Going from memory here, but if you lift the playfield and shove that diverter back in it should be going into a little metal piece attached to a spring by the coil. There is a very small screw head you can tighten down with an allen wrench in there. Try that.

This worked great, thank you!

Sorry for all the questions. I noticed the spinning discs on my playfield are much slower than they should be judging by other machines I’ve played and seen. Can anything be done to speed them up?

Have you checked the settings? I believe there's one that deals with how the spinning disks work.

I have, but even on fast mode they still seem pretty slow. Watching gameplay videos, it seems like when they pulse they move pretty fast. Mine barely move at all some times.

Have you checked the set screw on each disc? If the set screw has backed out the disc will appear to spin slow.

Yes, looking under the playfield it seems that the motor simply isn’t strong enough. Wheels move smoothly. When tightening the middle wheel screw it seems to just keep turning without tightening anything.

Now it seems the wheels barely spin at all. Could the motor need replaced?

Slow? You may need to remove the assembly and look. Is there old lube/oil causing drag? Previous owners gunked it up? It’s not common that an electric motor would go bad.

Thought I’d share this with the group before I list it. Rare Diamond plated playfield that was done by PFR several years ago. Mine really doesn’t need it and it deserves to be in a game. Send me a pm if you’re interested.

640A3CE1-71BB-4807-99B9-F6DE81B8C910 (resized).jpeg

Asking price?

That's sweet. Same boat, though; mine's not perfect but not anywhere near the need for a swap.

zoolander-mugatu[1].gif

I'm in the same boat. My playfield isn't perfect. but I'm sure there are others that would justify the swap much more. I'm sure someone will grab it quickly.

Right then.

Anyone picked up the Hardtop for Whirlwind yet? Wondering how close the orange areas on the bottom of the play field are to the original. On the OE website, they look very brown.

Anyone picked up the Hardtop for Whirlwind yet? Wondering how close the orange areas on the bottom of the play field are to the original. On the OE website, they look very brown.</blockquote

I has a guy grab 1 from Pinball Expo coming back to North Dakota & we think it looks spot on.

I am in need of a diverter arm if anyone happens to have one.

Thanks!

Do you have any piece of it? Mine was completely missing when I got the game and yaksplat was very kind and fabricated me one. I do know he is working on a home expansion right now though, so may not be able to assist in making another right now.

Theres a super tiny hex screw that connects to the wheel assembly, that was my issue. I've had to tighten twice when my spinners start getting weak

I've had my machine since the summer and the extra ball has always been awarded at 14 skyway tolls, I haven't changed any settings but it randomly started awarding at 8 a couple weeks ago. There's a setting, it's flashing between "AUTO. 8" and "TOLL 8", I can change it to TOLL 14 but auto stays on 8, whatever that means. Anyway just kinda weird to me that it changed by itself, I was wondering if anybody has an idea of why that happened.

Second issue, when I'm cradling the ball for maybe 10 seconds or less it starts the ball search. Doesn't seem right and has messed me up a few times

Thanks for your help

I made a discovery about my whirlwind’s “backglass” today…7065634F-39DF-4EC4-A27C-B83B2ECA22EE (resized).jpeg

So, I’m wondering what fellow whirlwind club members think of the CPR mirrored backglass. Is it good, or should I consider some other option?

(also, have you ever seen something like what’s on my game on any other game?)

It's called a "translight", and they were used in a LOOOT of Williams/Midway/Bally games in the 90s. That's normal.

This is what the problem was! Thanks for your advice.

Lmao, my noobishness is confirmed yet again! All this time I thought a translight still had the art adhered to it. So I was completely wtf? to find a loose, flexible poster-like thing in there.

So this was probably original then?

Any thoughts on the worthwhile-ness of a cpr mirrored backglass?

I looked at it for a bit. Seems as though the colors are less vibrant to me. I’m satisfied with my translite (W sticker included) and the game plays just as well either way.

100% original. It’s the plastic trim around the glass that holds the art against the glass.

I have a CPR backglass installed in my White Water and Twilight Zone. I really like the product. When it’s not lit, the colors are really saturated, but lit up it looks good.

Whirlwind is the only game I won’t consider a CPR glass for though, because, at least in my game, I have a “williams” sticker covering the boys “cubs” hat logo. Early production games shipped with a cubs logo on the boys hat, but midway through production, Williams stickers were placed over it, and later games made the full transition without a sticker.

Check to see what you have. It’s worth keeping the original if you have an early run or stickered glass because I think it’s a cool part in the games production history.

Thanks, I will reach out and see.

I'd research carefully before giving CPR a cent for a backglass.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-warranty-in-australia-

Thanks, I'm still smh that I somehow misread what a translight is. I thought it was a solid piece of acrylic with the art printed on it instead of printed on glass.

I just checked again, because when I first read about the Cubs vs Williams logo thing, I looked expecting to see a sticker right on the glass, again, not understanding that a translight is an acrylic sheet *behind* a piece of glass So, now having been properly educated lol, I looked and I definitely have a later run with the W emblem printed, no sticker.

I had my eye on a NIB one someone has for sale, so in this case it wouldn't have been money going to CPR directly. I definitely appreciate the heads up though. It seems to be a widespread issue with repro playfields and backglasses, which is pretty frustrating. I had in my head that mirco was the one to avoid while cpr was the good one. Apparently not! Another project I have underway is gathering up parts to build a Quicksilver from scratch. With mirco being the only option for a new reproduction pf, I was hoping to find someone selling one second hand, as I hate to give money to a company that's got a clear track record of bad behavior.

Regardless, I think if your translite is in good shape; there’s no reason to really buy a new one. Only reason I bought CPR glasses for my games was to replace my TZ one which had a tear in it, and WH2O that was weirdly stained—like someone spilled coffee all over it.

I’d say save your cash otherwise.

The playfields and backglasses is two different issues, although the corporate attitude is the same in that's it's fuck you customer.

Mirco with playfields, CPR with backglasses, JJP with the whole machine.

Has anyone done a hardtop replacement for their Whirlwind yet? I think I'll be doing one for mine since I don't want to have to remove all of the parts underneath the playfield when the main issue with mine is a roached playfield.

Anybody know where to get this without buying a whole new set of plastics. Classic arcades on eBay has one but if I remember right he is a thief or sells inferior stuff

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Yeah, I agree with you, if it's original, then I'll keep it that way

At least I don't need to worry about backglasses now hopefully. For my quicksilver project and my rack-a-ball restoration, I'm buying films from Coos. I have yet to hear anything but praise regarding that operation and those products, hope that doesn't change!