(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 5,411 posts
  • 477 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by transprtr4u
  • Topic is favorited by 219 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20240328_180122.jpg
ww4 (resized).jpg
ww1 (resized).jpg
431664144_1102766714308942_1744937369132115837_n (resized).jpg
434412944_1120807809119433_1730302851788400503_n (resized).jpg
432521726_1133084391214976_1080851355942252192_n (resized).jpg
IMG_0168.gif
01_whirlwind_lamp_matrix.jpg
00_whirlwind_lamp_locations.jpg
interconnect (resized).jpg
432465160_7340686755966474_7077397798256967316_n (resized).jpg
432299576_1492584684633536_6555073319600288997_n (resized).jpg
419012874_1173696690673815_6372052315181665429_n (resized).jpg
431730660_376351558550760_580083396770900881_n (resized).jpg
432294325_654003180160497_7724347182910452782_n (resized).jpg
20240316_083458 (resized).jpg

There are 5,411 posts in this topic. You are on page 93 of 109.
#4601 1 year ago
Quoted from eman4277:

What do you recommend?

When was the last time you've rebuilt your flippers? A worn coil stop is going to create more flipper travel since the stroke will be longer. Start with a fresh flipper rebuild and see if it solves your problem.

#4602 1 year ago

When I rebuilt my playfield I made sure to bias the guide up the playfield as I reinstalled it to try and avoid this happening. Even with that and rebuilt flippers it's still very close. It might just be a design flaw

#4603 1 year ago
Quoted from eman4277:

Anybody here ever have this problem with the top right flipper hitting the metal railing? It's causing an indent in the rubber. What do you recommend? Thanks for your help
[quoted image][quoted image]

When I saw this on a different game, it was because the angle the flipper was set at was wrong. Was set too far forward, so drew it back a bit.

#4604 1 year ago

Thanks all!

Quoted from mbaumle:

A worn coil stop is going to create more flipper travel since the stroke will be longer.

I probably need a new coil, since i bought the machine a month or so ago I replaced the flipper, rubber, spring, and the little bat and crank assembly. I think the only thing left is the coil, who knows how old that thing is..

Quoted from zacaj:

When I rebuilt my playfield I made sure to bias the guide up the playfield as I reinstalled it to try and avoid this happening.

I kinda figured i might have to do that, definitely not going to take it all apart again any time soon but I'll keep it in mind.

#4605 1 year ago
Quoted from eman4277:

I think the only thing left is the coil, who knows how old that thing is..

Unless the coil has overheated (tell tale sign of this is being unable to pull out the coil sleeve), then there’s no reason to replace it. Coils don’t “wear out” or lose any effectiveness as they age. Save your cash if you can.

#4606 1 year ago
Quoted from eman4277:

I think the only thing left is the coil, who knows how old that thing is..

Coil stop too

#4607 1 year ago

Thanks to all your help on this website I've resolved most major issues on my machine.

For anybody that might be googling in the future, I wanted to write the following here: One issue which i don't see the solution for anywhere online was my 3 spinning discs suddenly started to slow down after playing for a while. If i stopped playing for a while it would pick up speed but go back to slowing down and then just wouldn't move at all. I googled a lot and the closest thing I found was this thread with no solution:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whirlwind-spinners-slow-down-after-extended-play

I messaged bigsepe who thankfully is still a user here after 10 years and he told me to tighten these 2 tiny hex screws that connect the motor to the spinning discs. I immediately took it apart and followed his advice and it worked! Big thanks to bigsepe.

All that said the one major issue that i have not been able to resolve is the cellar kickback. It releases the ball about 60% of the time and when it does its often very weak. Maybe 10-20% of the time you get a nice solid pitch to the left flipper. I took apart both scoops, cleaned it out well, replaced the coil sleeve, and replaced the spring. Every time i put it back together it seems to work for a little while but quickly goes back to its old ways. I'm thinking its maybe a bad capacitor but im having trouble figuring out which cap to check.

The manual seems to indicate that the kickback is solenoid 14 which is tied to transistor Q7 but the schematic actually seems to show it going to Q4. Either way im still not sure which cap it goes to, C5, C6, neither or both?

Whats the best way to test a capacitor, set to continuity and compare readings? Do i need to remove them or have the machine on to test?

20221010_152023 (resized).jpg20221010_152023 (resized).jpg20221010_152047 (resized).jpg20221010_152047 (resized).jpg20221010_152301 (resized).jpg20221010_152301 (resized).jpg
#4608 1 year ago

And here it is...
Screenshot_20221013-153254 (resized).pngScreenshot_20221013-153254 (resized).png
Screenshot_20221013-153305 (resized).pngScreenshot_20221013-153305 (resized).png

#4609 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

And here it is...
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Awesome news!! Hopefully the art work looks good.

#4610 1 year ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Hardtop was what I meant to say.

Outside edge just announced it on their facebook! Woohoo
C2EF863D-0DF5-43F6-904B-979B51AAF697 (resized).jpegC2EF863D-0DF5-43F6-904B-979B51AAF697 (resized).jpeg

Quoted from eman4277:

Anybody here ever have this problem with the top right flipper hitting the metal railing? It's causing an indent in the rubber. What do you recommend? Thanks for your help
[quoted image][quoted image]

Mine was doing this when I got it. After rebuilding the flippers it doesn’t anymore. I’m guessing a worn out coil stop allows it to move more and it starts hitting the guide.

#4611 1 year ago

I replaced capacitor C5 just to see what would happen. Good news is I didn't break anything. Bad news is I didn't fix anything. Debating with myself whether I should take the aux power board out again and replace C6. Any advice on what to do with my weak cellar kickback would be much appreciated.

#4612 1 year ago

As mentioned previously. The single drop target on my Whirlwind is gone, replaced by a standard leaf switch. It works correctly so it is wired properly.

I am trying to figure out how to wire up the replacement unit. Currently the switch has a green/yellow and white/red (black circle) which is the proper wires as per the matrix. The machine also has a grey/yellow and white/yellow (red circle) that are currently taped off.

My question is around the wires in the connector, when I plug in the opto board it has a 5-connector plug (which I need to purchase) and I am trying to find where the wires go. I found the schematic reference to the the 1-bank drop target opto board but it does not say which wires go where and I am unable to locate the proper place in the schematic which would tell me.

I am guessing pins 4-5 are the switch logic (green/yellow and white/red) but I am not sure. Can anyone help?

1-drop (resized).png1-drop (resized).pngIMG_6675 (resized).jpgIMG_6675 (resized).jpg
#4613 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Currently the switch has a green/yellow and white/red (black circle) which is the proper wires as per the matrix.

GRN-YEL = Pin-5 (Col)
WHT-RED = Pin-4 (Row)

Quoted from mark532011:

The machine also has a grey/yellow and white/yellow (red circle) that are currently taped off.

GRY-YEL = Pin-3 (+12V)
BLK = Pin-1 (GND)

#4614 1 year ago

awesome! thank you

#4615 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

As mentioned previously. The single drop target on my Whirlwind is gone, replaced by a standard leaf switch. It works correctly so it is wired properly.
I am trying to figure out how to wire up the replacement unit. Currently the switch has a green/yellow and white/red (black circle) which is the proper wires as per the matrix. The machine also has a grey/yellow and white/yellow (red circle) that are currently taped off.
My question is around the wires in the connector, when I plug in the opto board it has a 5-connector plug (which I need to purchase) and I am trying to find where the wires go. I found the schematic reference to the the 1-bank drop target opto board but it does not say which wires go where and I am unable to locate the proper place in the schematic which would tell me.
I am guessing pins 4-5 are the switch logic (green/yellow and white/red) but I am not sure. Can anyone help?[quoted image][quoted image]

I need to check this out on the Whirlwind I got. Drop target goes down, but doesn’t pop back up!

#4616 1 year ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

I need to check this out on the Whirlwind I got. Drop target goes down, but doesn’t pop back up!

Bad opto

#4617 1 year ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

I need to check this out on the Whirlwind I got. Drop target goes down, but doesn’t pop back up!

Either a bad opto like Jmckune mentioned, or when the same thing happened to me, it was a flaky solder connection on the opto board. Lots of vibration there. Reflow solder and double check the connector while you’re under the hood.

#4618 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Either a bad opto like Jmckune mentioned, or when the same thing happened to me, it was a flaky solder connection on the opto board. Lots of vibration there. Reflow solder and double check the connector while you’re under the hood.

Ah cool, I’ll check both

#4619 1 year ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Ah cool, I’ll check both

Also, can’t hurt to take a q-tip dampened with windex or some canned air to clean the opto too.

Try all the easy stuff first, then replace.

#4620 1 year ago

Solved my problem with having a stuck ball on the backside of the left ramp. Corner posts were backwards.

In reference to the Shoot Again feature: mine doesn't work. Isn't there some way to turn on the Ball Saved feature and adjust the number of seconds that it lasts? I've looked through the manual and must be missing it.

On the diverter, how does the arm swing back to the left when the coil de-energizes? Sometimes all the shots to the right ramp go right into the three ball lock right from the start.

What targets do you need to hit in order to to light the Lock?

Perhaps you can tell this machine is new to me.

#4621 1 year ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Isn't there some way to turn on the Ball Saved feature and adjust the number of seconds that it lasts? I've looked through the manual and must be missing it.

The ball save on my machine only lasts until you hit any switch and score a point. You can also trigger extra ball drop target by going in the cellar when the yellow light is lit and the prize is blinking on the backglass or by hitting the right ramp several times

Quoted from Alan_L:

On the diverter, how does the arm swing back to the left when the coil de-energizes? Sometimes all the shots to the right ramp go right into the three ball lock right from the start.
What targets do you need to hit in order to to light the Lock?

Normally it should go to the left return lane unless you light the ball lock. Light the lock by hitting the flashing targets

Added 17 months ago:

Hitting either ramp several times, not just the right

#4622 1 year ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Solved my problem with having a stuck ball on the backside of the left ramp. Corner posts were backwards.
In reference to the Shoot Again feature: mine doesn't work. Isn't there some way to turn on the Ball Saved feature and adjust the number of seconds that it lasts? I've looked through the manual and must be missing it.
On the diverter, how does the arm swing back to the left when the coil de-energizes? Sometimes all the shots to the right ramp go right into the three ball lock right from the start.
What targets do you need to hit in order to to light the Lock?
Perhaps you can tell this machine is new to me.

You can adjust how many hits needed to light the extra ball in the settings. Light the ball lock by hitting all the blinking targets. Then the fan kicks in! Hit the right ramp, lock the ball! Repeat x2. It changes (which targrts to hit) on the 2nd round of locking 3 balls. Try to trap up a ball or two on the left flipper during multiball & use the lower right flipper to backhand into the saucer under the lifted ramp. Time the upper left ramp shot with the upper right flipper! And rinse/ repeat & put up a high score!

#4623 1 year ago

Diverter should have a return spring on it to change back to default closed position. Check that your crank arm isn’t broken or otherwise damaged.

#4624 1 year ago

That's what confuses me, the diagram does not show a return spring.

#4625 1 year ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Take a look at the rules and game settings, it sounds like its working correctly now to me. The drop target doesnt always instantly reset everytime you hit it, in some modes, its supposed to stay down until you ear

That's what confuses me, the diagram does not show a return spring.

Could be a return spring on the coil.

#4626 1 year ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

That's what confuses me, the diagram does not show a return spring.

The spring is part of the plunger, so it's not that obvious, #9 in the diagram.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-13278

There is no ball save feature, that's why you're not finding it. If you hit no switches on the plunge then you'll get it back, but that's all you get.

Screenshot_20221021_082825.jpgScreenshot_20221021_082825.jpg
#4627 1 year ago

Yes, the lack of a return spring on the diverted plunger was the problem.
The diagram does not show this spring at all. I used a 2 1/2" by 9/16"
spring and it works great.

I still cannot find any use of the words "Ball Saved" or " Shoot Again" in the Adjustments section of the manual after having re-read it six times. Would somone please direct me to the proper adjustment number or manual page on which this adjustment appears. The Ball Saved light only comes on in Lamp test.

The Extra Ball light comes on when it should but does not award an extra ball to the player. When lowered the switch shows as shut in Switch test.

#4628 1 year ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

The Ball Saved light only comes on in Lamp test.

Can you post a picture of this? I've never seen the words "Ball Saved" on a Whirlwind.

Extra balls are adjustment 11 in the settings. If it's set to none, you'll get the sound and light show for an extra ball, but no extra ball.

#4629 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

GRN-YEL = Pin-5 (Col)
WHT-RED = Pin-4 (Row)
GRY-YEL = Pin-3 (+12V)
BLK = Pin-1 (GND)

Wow, could they have made this any more confusing? so the pin at the top spot in both pictures (+12v) - which is labeled "1" on the board is shown as pin number 3 in the schematic. based on this the opto board connector should be:

pin 1 - GRY-YEL) +12v
Pin 2 - (key - no pin)
Pin 3 - WHT-RED )Row)
Pin 4 - GRN-YEL (Col)
Pin 5 - BLK (Ground)
Pin 6 - (not used)
Pin 7 (does not exist but is labeled on the board)
1-drop (resized).png1-drop (resized).pngIMG_6687 (resized).jpgIMG_6687 (resized).jpg

#4630 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Wow, could they have made this any more confusing?

You are using the wrong board.

C-13311-R.jpgC-13311-R.jpg

The assembly is C-13311-R and the PCB part number is 5768-12576-00. The one you have in your hand is 5768-12070-00.

#4631 1 year ago

thanks! I figured out something was off when the slider would not quite go through the opto. Bizarre, why make 5 different versions of exactly the same board with things moved around....sigh

#4632 1 year ago

anybody got a pic of where the green wire goes to what pin on the single drop target board underneath the playfield, mine popped out.

#4633 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

thanks! I figured out something was off when the slider would not quite go through the opto. Bizarre, why make 5 different versions of exactly the same board with things moved around....sigh

Different boards are often made due to the differences in physical requirements. Sometimes, electronic changes are also made.

Williams changed the electronic circuitry somewhere after Taxi and Earthshaker and Whirlwind.

taxi_3-bank_drop_target_schematic.jpgtaxi_3-bank_drop_target_schematic.jpgwhirlwind_3-bank_drop_target_schematic.jpgwhirlwind_3-bank_drop_target_schematic.jpgwhirlwind_1-bank_drop_target_schematic.jpgwhirlwind_1-bank_drop_target_schematic.jpg

The difference is the way the optocoupler is presented on the switch matrix.

For the 3-bank drop target board:

  • Taxi uses a transistor.
  • Earthshaker (or Whirlwind which is the example I typically use) uses a comparator.

The obvious physical benefit is that the TO-92 body does not need to be bent over because the DIP-18 of the comparator is already low profile.

For the 1-bank drop target board:

  • Whirlwind puts the optocoupler directly on the switch matrix.

This design persisted for most of the slotted opto boards that Williams used in WPC.

2 weeks later
#4634 1 year ago

i am going to add a stern c shaker motor to my whirlwind. My understanding is the motor runs on 12 v DC which I was going to tap from P1 on the main power supply board. attach that to a relay:

https://www.amazon.com/ELK-PRODUCTS-ELK912B-RELAY-MODULE/dp/B004HNB4ZQ/ref=d_pd_cart_vw_crc_sccl_2_2/144-0237267-3870015

and attach the 24 volt DC from Sol 24 so that the shaker activates when the fan activates

Does anyone see a problem here that I have not considered?

#4635 1 year ago

It'll be horrible if you can't get the ramp straight away?

#4637 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

Does anyone see a problem here that I have not considered?

At face value, it seems like it would work. But as I recall, when the fan comes on, it just stays on. I'm not sure I'd want the shaker motor to do this (personal preference IMHO). The spinning disc do pulse on and off and I think that would be a better option to trigger the shaker motor.

Keep us updated!

#4638 1 year ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

At face value, it seems like it would work. But as I recall, when the fan comes on, it just stays on. I'm not sure I'd want the shaker motor to do this (personal preference IMHO). The spinning disc do pulse on and off and I think that would be a better option to trigger the shaker motor.
Keep us updated!

Good point looks like it runs off the same 25 volt, so I can go either way. i have had the game apart for over a year so I haven't played for a while to remember when it would be best. i can try it both ways I guess.. will let you know.. just finishing the playfield now. i have to redo the cabinet, so will be starting that soon............

#4639 1 year ago

Hello everyone, I a picked up a Whirlwind at the White Rose show a little over a month ago and I’ve been sorting through the small amount of issues with it and I am down to one issue (that I know of). The previous owner knew that the flasher bulbs he had were incorrect but I replaced with Cointaker’s 906 “Super Flashers” and I’m still getting nothing.

I used a lamp matrix test board and that looked 100% good.

Any recommendations for the next thing to check/test? Every single flasher socket (that I am aware of) stays dark during an “all lamps” test and gameplay. Solder joints that I can see all look good.

It looks like incandescent 906 bulbs from Marco are cheap enough, but is there any reason to get them or would that be a waste of time?

This is my first ever pinball so I’m learning as I go. Thank you!

#4640 1 year ago
Quoted from AssaultSuit:

Hello everyone, I a picked up a Whirlwind at the White Rose show a little over a month ago and I’ve been sorting through the small amount of issues with it and I am down to one issue (that I know of). The previous owner knew that the flasher bulbs he had were incorrect but I replaced with Cointaker’s 906 “Super Flashers” and I’m still getting nothing.
I used a lamp matrix test board and that looked 100% good.
Any recommendations for the next thing to check/test? Every single flasher socket (that I am aware of) stays dark during an “all lamps” test and gameplay. Solder joints that I can see all look good.
It looks like incandescent 906 bulbs from Marco are cheap enough, but is there any reason to get them or would that be a waste of time?
This is my first ever pinball so I’m learning as I go. Thank you!

Great first game, you will enjoy it.

Generally on pinball, flashers are mixed in with the coils. Do a coil test and track which ones flash.

#4641 1 year ago
Quoted from AssaultSuit:

Every single flasher socket (that I am aware of) stays dark during an “all lamps” test and gameplay. Solder joints that I can see all look good.

On this generation of games, the lamp test won’t fire flash lamps. You need to go into the solenoid test for that. Do the flashers work during gameplay?

#4642 1 year ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

Great first game, you will enjoy it.
Generally on pinball, flashers are mixed in with the coils. Do a coil test and track which ones flash.

Thanks! It was a game I had put a lot of time into some years back when a local place had one.

Glad to understand this. I just ran the coil test and saw nothing flash. But I may have found a lead!

Doing a C-Side Test shows Err on the C Side. The manual lists quite a few things that could be wrong, but I'm guessing it could be related to the flashers not being triggered?

#4643 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

On this generation of games, the lamp test won’t fire flash lamps. You need to go into the solenoid test for that. Do the flashers work during gameplay?

Nothing flashes during gameplay, sadly. See my previous post for more info though!

#4644 1 year ago

What would you look for if all lamps on the lamp matrix are randomly going out? It happened a couple times when i turned on the game before and i would turn it off and turn it back on and it was fine. Now its happening during gameplay, and it won't come back after turning off and turning back on. It does come back after I leave it off and wait a while though. Thanks

#4645 1 year ago
Quoted from AssaultSuit:

Thanks! It was a game I had put a lot of time into some years back when a local place had one.
Glad to understand this. I just ran the coil test and saw nothing flash. But I may have found a lead!
Doing a C-Side Test shows Err on the C Side. The manual lists quite a few things that could be wrong, but I'm guessing it could be related to the flashers not being triggered?

You need to check the A/C relay and its drive circuit.

#4646 1 year ago
Quoted from eman4277:

What would you look for if all lamps on the lamp matrix are randomly going out? It happened a couple times when i turned on the game before and i would turn it off and turn it back on and it was fine. Now its happening during gameplay, and it won't come back after turning off and turning back on. It does come back after I leave it off and wait a while though. Thanks

Sounds heat related. So it could be a bad fuse, fuse holder, bridge rectifier, molex connector or a cracked header pin. When it goes out next time, leave the game on and start testing voltage at the bridge rectifier. See what you get.

#4647 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You need to check the A/C relay and its drive circuit.

I was thinking the same, but whirlwind has some dedicated flashers that aren’t driven through the A/C Relay—like the back panel flashers that are driven by the sound overlay board. If zero flashers are working, I’m Wondering if the problem is voltage related instead?

#4648 1 year ago
Quoted from AssaultSuit:

Any recommendations for the next thing to check/test?

Consider the following diagram from the manual with magic highlighting tool.

whirlwind_aux_power_driver.jpgwhirlwind_aux_power_driver.jpg

The first thing that leaps out at me from the diagram is to check the fuse F2C.

Quoted from AssaultSuit:

Doing a C-Side Test shows Err on the C Side.

This can fail from lack of C side power (voltage). It can also fail from a non functioning 4N25.

whirlwind_interconnect_switch12.jpgwhirlwind_interconnect_switch12.jpg

Suggest you try the following.

  • Check the fuse.
  • Check for the presence of 25V at 5J11-1.
  • Check (diode test) the 4N25.
#4649 1 year ago

Thanks for the replies!

I pulled Fuse F2C and it tested fine. I’m working on testing the other items but in the meantime here are a few other pieces of information:

-I’m a dope and forgot to swap out the 6V bulbs behind the clouds. I pulled them out last night and replaced with the 906 supers from coin taker and they work correctly during a coil test and during gameplay. (Having not seen it before, the effect is pretty awesome!)

-During a coil test, when it gets to testing A side and the C side, it looks like it might be firing the same thing regardless of which side it is on. I took a video but I need to analyze it. The test moves too fast for me in real time to be sure what I’m seeing/hearing.

-To the best of my understanding the game works 100% correctly during gameplay. The ramp lifts when it’s supposed to and lowers when it should. Toll lane swaps when appropriate.

-About a week after getting the machine, the alphanumeric display went dark in the middle of a game. There had been no visible sign of degradation but I didn’t have equipment to test anything on that at the time. I installed a rottendog and it has been working fine. I read that these use less power…is there a chance a power issue either fried my original or that it wasn’t getting enough power? I bring it up in case this is a clue to a power issue.

I greatly appreciate all the help!

#4650 1 year ago
Quoted from AssaultSuit:

The test moves too fast for me in real time to be sure what I’m seeing/hearing.

The up/down locking button on the coin door will pause the test when you lock it in the down position and repeat the solenoid/flasher that you are on until you unlock it.

Quoted from AssaultSuit:

-During a coil test, when it gets to testing A side and the C side, it looks like it might be firing the same thing regardless of which side it is on.

This sounds like the A/C relay isn't energizing which switches power to the C side solenoids.

Quoted from AssaultSuit:

-About a week after getting the machine, the alphanumeric display went dark in the middle of a game.

Quoted from AssaultSuit:

I read that these use less power…is there a chance a power issue either fried my original or that it wasn’t getting enough power? I bring it up in case this is a clue to a power issue.

The original requires a +, -100 volts and the new one doesn't need this. This part of the power supply maybe bad but it won't affect the flashers.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
4,750
Machine - For Sale
Indian Land, SC
From: $ 12.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
There are 5,411 posts in this topic. You are on page 93 of 109.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whirlwind-club-members-only/page/93 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.