Does it go down the lock lane and immediately kick back out?
Those switches can get bent up and stick close causing it not to properly lock. When I first got my whirlwind the lock lane switches where all bent up and needed adjusting so they wouldn’t catch on the switch slot.

New member. Looking for awhile and finally snagged one. Woooooooo!!!

yes and The wires on the switches were all bent out of shape when I got it so I bent them back into a usable shape but didn't think to actually test the switches (dumb)

The self test shows the switches are actually bad so I have a new set on order.

I just installed my pintech 6116 NVRAM in my CPU the other night. Had to pull the chip and install the socket, but fired right up and stored my setting without any problems. Pintech seem to be the cheapest available option and I have been pleased with the two I have installed so far. I also have one for a high speed game to do as well.

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I did this for my Elvira and the Party Monsters. Luckily, I have a desoldering gun, so that made the removal of the ram chip relatively easy.

I also picked up a Hakko 301 and makes these formerly dreaded jobs a breeze!

looking for more ideas.

I replaced switches 22,23 (left lock 1,2) verified the diodes were the correct orientation and they still show as bad in the self test, though switch 24 (left lock 3) shows ok.

The schematic shows they go between IP8 pin3 and IP10 pins 2,3 but everything else in the row and column show ok. So i put a multimeter on the pins and verified I have connectivity when the switch is closed (and the diode is jumpered around)

The mpu board is a new rottendog one

so now I am kinda stumped as to where to go next.

Check the toll ramp and diverter switches. I think that balls only kick out immediately if the software is not expecting them there.

Thanks! I will check them, although the self-test says they are fine. I am thinking I might try to cross-jumper the wiring to the switches with a known good one. For example, wire switch 22 (IP8 pin3 and IP10 pin2) to switch 24 wires (IP8 pin3 and IP10 pin4)

that way if the test shows the problem switch moves, it has to be on the playfield, but if the problem does not move then it must be on the mpu. That should work, right?

Looking to replace these three broken plastics: the piece across the back panel, the left sling plastic and the plunger skill shot scores plastic. See pics. Thanks for checking.

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I have good news to report. After dinking around a bit more with the 2 replaced outhole switches, I checked the actual switch test. Both the replaced switches worked correctly in the switch test so I started a new game. They worked correctly! and after the game when I started diagnostics, the message about the switches did not appear.

It looks like either the ROMs or the rottendog board don't register the change when a switch is replaced until a game is played.

Good deal!

Found the three WW plastics that I was looking for thanks to a couple of Pinsiders.

But now I discovered that this tiny plastic is broken, too. (see pic). It sits just to the left of the Hi-Pressure area. A guy on eBay has one for $ 24.77 with "generous" free shipping (55 cents), but I'd like to see if I can shave some bucks off that.

Any help?

Alan

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Found one from another Pinsider, thanks.

Hi all, long time member, but I picked up another Whirlwind for a family member, but it is missing the Wheel drive Assembly (the whole unit). So I was wondering if anyone had one for sale? I know it is a long shot, but if I can't find one, I'll have to break the machine down and turn it into a parts machine, so I am holding out hope. It has a few other things missing, but I can replace those items, so everything is hanging on the wheel drive assembly.

PM me if you happen to have one.

Thanks in advance for any help.

If you do break it down I need a diverter arm!

Put an ad in the parts wanted section, that's your best bet...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/pinball-parts-wanted

Joined the club today! Went to buy a Diner and brought home a WW instead for a bit less money. Like everything I buy...its gonna need a full shop job. Everything works, but it has a few busted plastics and the mylar is peeling a bit. Cabinet needs touch-up, boards need to be gone over, etc. Gonna start with a full topside strip down and pull the mylar off.

I've removed mylar successfully on Banzai Run using freeze spray with perfect results..wondering how similar this will come off? A few inserts have worn text so I guess the mylar was added later. Playfield looks good though with basically no wear to speak of.

I now have Lawlor's first 7 machines so I'm a happy camper!

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Congrats! Looks like you also need to build the topper?

Yep, It came with a brand-new cloud top part but no motor/fan. The seller was piecing together the parts to make one and in the deal he included a 240v BBQ fan motor (with blades). He said the output is as strong as the OG motor and fan, I'd just need to make a motor mount adapter, and then wire up a relay.

Not really sure if I'll do all that. I'm gonna move back to the US eventually then I'll have a wonky 240v motor up there that won't run at the right speed on 120v. So I'll be looking for the right motor and fan assy eventually.

Pretty sure this is it.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-13459

system 11's are the worst for mylar removal, but it can be done. ive did a few but glue on these is a bitch like no other.

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I’ve never seen those handles. Where did you get those?

@GregCon made my pinball moving handles after I had repaired his resetting issue on TZ.

Asking about using LEDs for flashers for a WW.
I'm shopping a WW for a friend and am considering LEDs. The machine has three different "areas" of flashers the way I see it:
under playfield flashers, flashers under light domes, and 906's in the backbox panel.
What do you owners think? All flashers in LED?
Just the under pf? Just under domes? Just in back panel? Or a combo?
Thanks for your input.

I keep incandescent flasher bulbs in all my games. Generally LED flashers are just too damn bright for me since they are normally sitting out above everything else on the playfield.

I too prefer incandescent flashers, with LEDs throughout the rest on my whirlwind.

I think flashers in domes are too bright. I keep those as incandescent. But I put flashers under the playfield and behind the back panel. Side note, a purple flasher or two looks great in the back panel.

Just to add, LED flashers flicker when using the flippers in System 11 games.

Keep them incandescent if at all possible.

There's this... i've done this to all my system 11 games...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-led-flashers-to-system-11-games

Guys, anyone have some extra sound ROM's laying around?

Or have access to one of those ROM burners?

Prices on ebay, pinball vendors are crazy. Matt's Basement Arcade = $90. I would happily pay someone to burn me one... I just don't want to pay $90.

A different solution @ https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/12#post-6591159 is available. Cutting the diodes on the aux board is still required but the diode at the solenoid is not required with this solution.

It is also possible to replace the entire aux board (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-2022-northwest-pinball-amp-arcade-show-thread-6-3-6-5/page/4#post-6962812) but that solution is 150% overkill.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/D-13199

It's listed as out of stock, but not discontinued...so that's a good sign. Perhaps reach out to them and check for future availability.

I have two system 11B boards ready to ship monday, one to one original board design. Upgraded transistors to not need the second set of high wattage resistors.

This board does NOT have distorted sound like the rottondog boards. Sound is 100% original.

Check it out:

https://pinballbasement.com/products/d-11883-system-11b-cpu-board

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https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1089-pinballrom/06315-rom-whirlwind-sound

Price on this board is incredible! Hard to beat this price.

However ... the page says "CPU/PIA's will need to be transferred over." so ... caveat emptor. An OEM board does not install the PIAs in sockets potential buyers will need to purchase from various merchants that stock them or remove them from a board. The image also shows no SRAMs installed for either the game or speech software. There is a 28-pin socket so assuming the board does not come with one the correct SRAM (6116 or 6264) will need to be installed. The correct SRAM will depend on the jumper configurations (W5/W6 for the game SRAM and W18/W19 for the speech SRAM). Of course, you can always switch the jumper configuration but that requires board work on your brand new board.

Love my DP Whirlwind and added some custom mods, for those looking for any ideas to dress up your machine a little.

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Beautiful game!! The little tornado's are kinda cool, I assume you hand-made those?

Does the sub work well with this game? Thought it would be too old school to have any bass in the music!?

Yes, they were 3D printed and hand painted by a lady off of Etsy.

Yes, it actually makes a huge difference with the powered sub.

Here's a better pic of just the tornados.

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those are beautiful - and it reminds me of something... has anyone re-themed a Whirlwind into a Sharknado? Seems like a natural

Clever idea!

Ooh, I like those! I gotta make that happen?