(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!

By mof

8 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 4,501 posts
  • 430 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Elicash
  • Topic is favorited by 201 Pinsiders

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There are 4,501 posts in this topic. You are on page 90 of 91.
#4451 51 days ago

Does it go down the lock lane and immediately kick back out?
Those switches can get bent up and stick close causing it not to properly lock. When I first got my whirlwind the lock lane switches where all bent up and needed adjusting so they wouldn’t catch on the switch slot.

10
#4452 50 days ago

New member. Looking for awhile and finally snagged one. Woooooooo!!!

#4453 49 days ago
Quoted from BenB:

Does it go down the lock lane and immediately kick back out?

yes and The wires on the switches were all bent out of shape when I got it so I bent them back into a usable shape but didn't think to actually test the switches (dumb)

The self test shows the switches are actually bad so I have a new set on order.

#4454 49 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

yes and The wires on the switches were all bent out of shape when I got it so I bent them back into a usable shape but didn't think to actually test the switches (dumb)
The self test shows the switches are actually bad so I have a new set on order.

If they move freely through the switch slot but still show closed on test then yes you will need a new switch or switches. It will be a good day when you resolve your issue as it will completely change the fun factor of your game.

#4455 49 days ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Guys, question for Whirlwind owners who installed NVRAM -
Who did you order from?
And was it plug and play?
I am looking at pinitech website, and its a little confusing - different version for System 11B and later? Or you need to jumper something?
I already have that chip socketed on my MPU. So it should be easy, but I want to make sure I am ordering the right one.

I just installed my pintech 6116 NVRAM in my CPU the other night. Had to pull the chip and install the socket, but fired right up and stored my setting without any problems. Pintech seem to be the cheapest available option and I have been pleased with the two I have installed so far. I also have one for a high speed game to do as well.

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#4456 48 days ago
Quoted from BenB:

I just installed my pintech 6116 NVRAM in my CPU the other night. Had to pull the chip and install the socket, but fired right up and stored my setting without any problems. Pintech seem to be the cheapest available option and I have been pleased with the two I have installed so far. I also have one for a high speed game to do as well. [quoted image]

I did this for my Elvira and the Party Monsters. Luckily, I have a desoldering gun, so that made the removal of the ram chip relatively easy.

#4457 48 days ago

I also picked up a Hakko 301 and makes these formerly dreaded jobs a breeze!

#4458 46 days ago

looking for more ideas.

I replaced switches 22,23 (left lock 1,2) verified the diodes were the correct orientation and they still show as bad in the self test, though switch 24 (left lock 3) shows ok.

The schematic shows they go between IP8 pin3 and IP10 pins 2,3 but everything else in the row and column show ok. So i put a multimeter on the pins and verified I have connectivity when the switch is closed (and the diode is jumpered around)

The mpu board is a new rottendog one

so now I am kinda stumped as to where to go next.

#4459 46 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

looking for more ideas.
I replaced switches 22,23 (left lock 1,2) verified the diodes were the correct orientation and they still show as bad in the self test, though switch 24 (left lock 3) shows ok.
The schematic shows they go between IP8 pin3 and IP10 pins 2,3 but everything else in the row and column show ok. So i put a multimeter on the pins and verified I have connectivity when the switch is closed (and the diode is jumpered around)
The mpu board is a new rottendog one
so now I am kinda stumped as to where to go next.

Check the toll ramp and diverter switches. I think that balls only kick out immediately if the software is not expecting them there.

#4460 46 days ago

Thanks! I will check them, although the self-test says they are fine. I am thinking I might try to cross-jumper the wiring to the switches with a known good one. For example, wire switch 22 (IP8 pin3 and IP10 pin2) to switch 24 wires (IP8 pin3 and IP10 pin4)

that way if the test shows the problem switch moves, it has to be on the playfield, but if the problem does not move then it must be on the mpu. That should work, right?

#4461 45 days ago

Looking to replace these three broken plastics: the piece across the back panel, the left sling plastic and the plunger skill shot scores plastic. See pics. Thanks for checking.

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#4462 45 days ago

I have good news to report. After dinking around a bit more with the 2 replaced outhole switches, I checked the actual switch test. Both the replaced switches worked correctly in the switch test so I started a new game. They worked correctly! and after the game when I started diagnostics, the message about the switches did not appear.

It looks like either the ROMs or the rottendog board don't register the change when a switch is replaced until a game is played.

#4463 45 days ago

Good deal!

1 week later
#4464 34 days ago

After almost 2 years of staring at a dead alphanumeric display, my Wolffpac display is installed and working good! Now I can run diagnostic tests and fix the myriad of other problems my WW has!

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#4465 34 days ago

I also installed Frank's Coin Battery board on the MPU. However, since I'm pretty comfortable doing desoldering and soldering now, I may go with the NVRAM route to eliminate the batteries entirely.

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I also replaced my busted shooter rod with a new, shiny blue shooter rod!

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#4466 34 days ago

Has anyone cleaned the fan motor before? Use iso alcohol I take it? Also, does removing the fan just involve popping off the washer thing?

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#4467 34 days ago

Found the three WW plastics that I was looking for thanks to a couple of Pinsiders.

But now I discovered that this tiny plastic is broken, too. (see pic). It sits just to the left of the Hi-Pressure area. A guy on eBay has one for $ 24.77 with "generous" free shipping (55 cents), but I'd like to see if I can shave some bucks off that.

Any help?

Alan

20220522_140208 (resized).jpg Added 31 days ago:

Found one from another Pinsider, thanks.

#4468 31 days ago

Hi all, long time member, but I picked up another Whirlwind for a family member, but it is missing the Wheel drive Assembly (the whole unit). So I was wondering if anyone had one for sale? I know it is a long shot, but if I can't find one, I'll have to break the machine down and turn it into a parts machine, so I am holding out hope. It has a few other things missing, but I can replace those items, so everything is hanging on the wheel drive assembly.

PM me if you happen to have one.

Thanks in advance for any help.

#4469 31 days ago
Quoted from Bman:

Hi all, long time member, but I picked up another Whirlwind for a family member, but it is missing the Wheel drive Assembly (the whole unit). So I was wondering if anyone had one for sale? I know it is a long shot, but if I can't find one, I'll have to break the machine down and turn it into a parts machine, so I am holding out hope. It has a few other things missing, but I can replace those items, so everything is hanging on the wheel drive assembly.
PM me if you happen to have one.
Thanks in advance for any help.

If you do break it down I need a diverter arm!

#4470 31 days ago
Quoted from Bman:

Hi all, long time member, but I picked up another Whirlwind for a family member, but it is missing the Wheel drive Assembly (the whole unit). So I was wondering if anyone had one for sale?

Put an ad in the parts wanted section, that's your best bet...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/pinball-parts-wanted

#4471 30 days ago

Joined the club today! Went to buy a Diner and brought home a WW instead for a bit less money. Like everything I buy...its gonna need a full shop job. Everything works, but it has a few busted plastics and the mylar is peeling a bit. Cabinet needs touch-up, boards need to be gone over, etc. Gonna start with a full topside strip down and pull the mylar off.

I've removed mylar successfully on Banzai Run using freeze spray with perfect results..wondering how similar this will come off? A few inserts have worn text so I guess the mylar was added later. Playfield looks good though with basically no wear to speak of.

I now have Lawlor's first 7 machines so I'm a happy camper!

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#4472 30 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Joined the club today! Went to buy a Diner and brought home a WW instead for a bit less money.

Congrats! Looks like you also need to build the topper?

#4473 30 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Congrats! Looks like you also need to build the topper?

Yep, It came with a brand-new cloud top part but no motor/fan. The seller was piecing together the parts to make one and in the deal he included a 240v BBQ fan motor (with blades). He said the output is as strong as the OG motor and fan, I'd just need to make a motor mount adapter, and then wire up a relay.

Not really sure if I'll do all that. I'm gonna move back to the US eventually then I'll have a wonky 240v motor up there that won't run at the right speed on 120v. So I'll be looking for the right motor and fan assy eventually.

#4474 30 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Yep, It came with a brand-new cloud top part but no motor/fan. The seller was piecing together the parts to make one and in the deal he included a 240v BBQ fan motor (with blades). He said the output is as strong as the OG motor and fan, I'd just need to make a motor mount adapter, and then wire up a relay.
Not really sure if I'll do all that. I'm gonna move back to the US eventually then I'll have a wonky 240v motor up there that won't run at the right speed on 120v. So I'll be looking for the right motor and fan assy eventually.

Pretty sure this is it.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-13459

#4475 29 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

I've removed mylar successfully on Banzai Run using freeze spray with perfect results..wondering how similar this will come off

system 11's are the worst for mylar removal, but it can be done. ive did a few but glue on these is a bitch like no other.

1 week later
#4476 22 days ago

Finally joined.20220603_193032 (resized).jpg
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#4477 22 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Finally joined.[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]

I’ve never seen those handles. Where did you get those?

#4478 21 days ago

Does anyone know if the ramp arm that lifts and drops the ramp is supposed to be loose, or is it meant to be fairly rigid? I was finally able to fix my ramp having issues dropping, so I'm very happy about that.

#4479 21 days ago
Quoted from Pbgixxer:

I’ve never seen those handles. Where did you get those?

GregCon made my pinball moving handles after I had repaired his resetting issue on TZ.

#4480 20 days ago

Asking about using LEDs for flashers for a WW.
I'm shopping a WW for a friend and am considering LEDs. The machine has three different "areas" of flashers the way I see it:
under playfield flashers, flashers under light domes, and 906's in the backbox panel.
What do you owners think? All flashers in LED?
Just the under pf? Just under domes? Just in back panel? Or a combo?
Thanks for your input.

#4481 20 days ago

I keep incandescent flasher bulbs in all my games. Generally LED flashers are just too damn bright for me since they are normally sitting out above everything else on the playfield.

#4482 20 days ago

I too prefer incandescent flashers, with LEDs throughout the rest on my whirlwind.

#4483 20 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Asking about using LEDs for flashers for a WW.
I'm shopping a WW for a friend and am considering LEDs. The machine has three different "areas" of flashers the way I see it:
under playfield flashers, flashers under light domes, and 906's in the backbox panel.
What do you owners think? All flashers in LED?
Just the under pf? Just under domes? Just in back panel? Or a combo?
Thanks for your input.

I think flashers in domes are too bright. I keep those as incandescent. But I put flashers under the playfield and behind the back panel. Side note, a purple flasher or two looks great in the back panel.

#4484 19 days ago

Just to add, LED flashers flicker when using the flippers in System 11 games.

Keep them incandescent if at all possible.

#4485 19 days ago

There's this... i've done this to all my system 11 games...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-led-flashers-to-system-11-games

#4486 19 days ago

Guys, anyone have some extra sound ROM's laying around?

Or have access to one of those ROM burners?

Prices on ebay, pinball vendors are crazy. Matt's Basement Arcade = $90. I would happily pay someone to burn me one... I just don't want to pay $90.

#4487 19 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Just to add, LED flashers flicker when using the flippers in System 11 games.

A different solution @ https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/12#post-6591159 is available. Cutting the diodes on the aux board is still required but the diode at the solenoid is not required with this solution.

It is also possible to replace the entire aux board (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-2022-northwest-pinball-amp-arcade-show-thread-6-3-6-5/page/4#post-6962812) but that solution is 150% overkill.

#4488 17 days ago
Quoted from Bman:

Hi all, long time member, but I picked up another Whirlwind for a family member, but it is missing the Wheel drive Assembly (the whole unit). So I was wondering if anyone had one for sale? I know it is a long shot, but if I can't find one, I'll have to break the machine down and turn it into a parts machine, so I am holding out hope. It has a few other things missing, but I can replace those items, so everything is hanging on the wheel drive assembly.
PM me if you happen to have one.
Thanks in advance for any help.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/D-13199

It's listed as out of stock, but not discontinued...so that's a good sign. Perhaps reach out to them and check for future availability.

#4489 14 days ago

I have two system 11B boards ready to ship monday, one to one original board design. Upgraded transistors to not need the second set of high wattage resistors.

This board does NOT have distorted sound like the rottondog boards. Sound is 100% original.

Check it out:

https://pinballbasement.com/products/d-11883-system-11b-cpu-board

System 11B Top (resized).png
#4490 13 days ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Guys, anyone have some extra sound ROM's laying around?
Or have access to one of those ROM burners?
Prices on ebay, pinball vendors are crazy. Matt's Basement Arcade = $90. I would happily pay someone to burn me one... I just don't want to pay $90.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1089-pinballrom/06315-rom-whirlwind-sound

#4491 13 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Basement:

I have two system 11B boards ready to ship monday, one to one original board design.

Price on this board is incredible! Hard to beat this price.

However ... the page says "CPU/PIA's will need to be transferred over." so ... caveat emptor. An OEM board does not install the PIAs in sockets potential buyers will need to purchase from various merchants that stock them or remove them from a board. The image also shows no SRAMs installed for either the game or speech software. There is a 28-pin socket so assuming the board does not come with one the correct SRAM (6116 or 6264) will need to be installed. The correct SRAM will depend on the jumper configurations (W5/W6 for the game SRAM and W18/W19 for the speech SRAM). Of course, you can always switch the jumper configuration but that requires board work on your brand new board.

#4492 9 days ago

Love my DP Whirlwind and added some custom mods, for those looking for any ideas to dress up your machine a little.

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#4493 9 days ago
Quoted from Caper:

Love my DP Whirlwind and added some custom mods, for those looking for any ideas to dress up your machine a little.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Beautiful game!! The little tornado's are kinda cool, I assume you hand-made those?

#4494 9 days ago

Does the sub work well with this game? Thought it would be too old school to have any bass in the music!?

#4495 9 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Beautiful game!! The little tornado's are kinda cool, I assume you hand-made those?

Yes, they were 3D printed and hand painted by a lady off of Etsy.

#4496 9 days ago
Quoted from Mahoyvan:

Does the sub work well with this game? Thought it would be too old school to have any bass in the music!?

Yes, it actually makes a huge difference with the powered sub.

#4497 9 days ago
Quoted from Caper:

Yes, they were 3D printed and hand painted by a lady off of Etsy.

Here's a better pic of just the tornados.

Screenshot_20220614-094315_Gallery (resized).jpg
#4498 9 days ago

those are beautiful - and it reminds me of something... has anyone re-themed a Whirlwind into a Sharknado? Seems like a natural

#4499 9 days ago
Quoted from Caper:

Yes, they were 3D printed and hand painted by a lady off of Etsy.

Clever idea!

#4500 9 days ago
Quoted from Caper:

Here's a better pic of just the tornados.
[quoted image]

Ooh, I like those! I gotta make that happen?

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