Hey, I'm getting a whirlwind this week. I'm looking for a playfield scan. Especially the area around the discs has some issues. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Hey, I'm getting a whirlwind this week. I'm looking for a playfield scan. Especially the area around the discs has some issues. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Just a standard 6/32 or 8/32 stud post. You can get them from hardware stores.
Pinball life also sells them cheap. Doesn’t matter if you use the 8/32 or 6/32. Only difference is thickness. When doing a playfield tear down it’s important to have a bunch because as you just found out they often snap. Just have to make sure tnut is same size. I replaced all of the tnuts on mine so I believe I used 6/32 but yours looks like it may be 8/32
If the top threaded portion of the post takes a #6 elastic stop nut - likely this case - it's an 02-4224 #6-32 / #8-32 post screw. The version with #8-32 threads on both ends is an 02-4225.
Typically Williams included a page in the manual listing the "Metal & Plastic Posts" used on the game (page 65).
I started a separate thread on this, but was thinking someone here might have something handy...
I have been missing the fan on my WW forever and finally got the fan, motor, and bracket. I will need to make the wiring harness that runs from the fan to to board in the top of the head, but also the wiring that runs from the boards in the backbox to that fan board (looks like two different connectors on that side). Would anyone be able to help with some pictures of the wiring on the motor, the connectors on the fan board, and the connectors on the backbox board? I'll be making these harnesses from scratch, so the more detail the better if possible...thank you!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/GpP45DctHAnKNcm2A
Whole photo dump if you want to dig into it deeper... https://photos.app.goo.gl/Tar7MyWSHoPXIImR2
Can someone tell me what type of resistor this is?
board (resized).jpg
Trying to get my new to me WW up and running 100% when I noticed that this board was disconnected, and this resistor is missing. Can't find it on Marco by part number so going to track it down somewhere else. Not sure if there's a special name for it though?
Quoted from Mahoyvan:Can someone tell me what type of resistor this is?
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Trying to get my new to me WW up and running 100% when I noticed that this board was disconnected, and this resistor is missing. Can't find it on Marco by part number so going to track it down somewhere else. Not sure if there's a special name for it though?
5 watt, 680ohm, 5%.
Ceramic, but not that that really matters.
Thanks for the lead, so when I search on Mouser.ca I have a ton of options: https://www.mouser.ca/c/passive-components/resistors/?power+rating=5+W&resistance=680+Ohms&termination+style=Axial&tolerance=5+%25
What's the most appropriate option for this board?
Honestly, all of them would work.
I would go for one that was the same, ceramic packed style, so the Yageo SQP500JB-680R is a good match.
Quoted from Mahoyvan:Ordered up, thanks for the help, I really appreciate it!
Good!
It will help with heat distribution if, when soldering on the new one, lift it AWAY from the PCB by some, leaving air to flow completely around it. That way, if something happens, it won't start to cook the PCB.
I have replacement spinner decals coming in from Marco, but ive read they’re not that great and dont catch the ball that well…
Has anyone ever masked off their playfields and sprayed a silicone grip on them? Or sprayed them before installation?
Anyone have issues with the up/down ramp. Mint is not latching in the up position. I got a couple suggestions from my post on facebook repair group but wondering if there are any other suggestions before I tear into it again.
The small spring (number 23 in the pic) on the small coil was missing so I added one from a Black Hole relay. Not the exact same tension. I am going to tighten that spring and see if that helps as well.
It was also suggested to really make sure that #20 and 22a metal frame and the latch are pretty straight so I will check on that as well.
Any other ideas?
Here is a link to my post that includes a video...
https://www.facebook.com/790235429/videos/181547124076220/
gfdgdfgd (resized).JPGgjjgjg (resized).JPGQuoted from killerrobots:I bet your spring is not right. I checked mine and it is surprisingly beefy. It is a pretty simple mechanism. If getting a better spring doesn't fix it then I would make sure there is a sharp edge on the ratchet and pawl.
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Exactly!!!!!!!! I just checked my FH spring and it is beefy (just like the one in your pic). I changed to a beefier spring and so far so good but I will order the correct spring. Thanks for the pics. I might sharpen up the ratchet and pawl as well as you suggest. Thanks so much!
One last thing to check is that your main solenoid is stroking all the way back. If for some reason it was held up then the ratchet wouldn't reach the pawl and it would fall back down. The pawl is spring loaded closed so it should latch regardless of the smaller solenoid.
No problem, and as an aside I have been enjoying your videos. Happy to see you get a WW. It was one of my first games and the first one I really loved playing.
Quoted from killerrobots:One last thing to check is that your main solenoid is stroking all the way back. If for some reason it was held up then the ratchet wouldn't reach the pawl and it would fall back down. The pawl is spring loaded closed so it should latch regardless of the smaller solenoid.
No problem, and as an aside I have been enjoying your videos. Happy to see you get a WW. It was one of my first games and the first one I really loved playing.
Awesome thanks for the info! I did take apart, clean and install a new sleeve for the bigger solenoid in that mech so hopefully that is ok.
Thanks man, much appreciated! I'm very excited to have it on legs finally and dial it in and then really dive in to gameplay.
Just got my whitlwind up and running! Well, for the most part.
Is the drop target bank supposed to reset after the 3rd target goes down? Or does it reset at the beginning of a new ball?
Quoted from Mahoyvan:Just got my whitlwind up and running! Well, for the most part.
Is the drop target bank supposed to reset after the 3rd target goes down? Or does it reset at the beginning of a new ball?
Both. Resets when all go down and then will also reset for the next ball for the skill shot.
My dmd conversion kit arrives this week from mypinballs. Anyone else installed one yet? Be keen to here how it went, any pointers? Man I’m excited to try it.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:My dmd conversion kit arrives this week from mypinballs. Anyone else installed one yet? Be keen to here how it went, any pointers? Man I’m excited to try it.
Jim should invite you to the Slack group...there is all the information and help you need.
Quoted from pencilneck:Both. Resets when all go down and then will also reset for the next ball for the skill shot.
Any initial thoughts what to look for when I get in there?
The 3 bank resets at the end of each ball, so perhaps it’s something just mechanical?
I guess Im not sure how these work… What tells the game to reset when the 3rd target goes down.
Quoted from Mahoyvan:Any initial thoughts what to look for when I get in there?
The 3 bank resets at the end of each ball, so perhaps it’s something just mechanical?
I guess Im not sure how these work… What tells the game to reset when the 3rd target goes down.
Check the drop switches in switch test. You may have a flaky connector on the drop mech, maybe reflow optos on the drop board or replace bad opto (i had to replace a bad opto).
I documented my drop target repair as well as the entire machine here... (warning...there are a lot of videos, that link should take you to a playlist with all the videos starting at part 1)
Quoted from TomDK:There is also a Thread "Whirlwind ReWrite .. the journey" here on pinside.
Welcome to the club !
Thanks guys I’m on the slack group now. Setting it up this weekend.
Quoted from pencilneck:Momentary Short update... somehow the coin door was the cause. Here are my notes as it were...
* Found that I could beat on the coin door and get false Skyway Tolls. Unplug coin door, no mater how violent I got with coin door, no false triggers.
* The false triggers would ONLY happen in game play mode, never in testing modes.
* Installed Earthshaker coin door, no issues to report, everything working to factory design.
* Wiggle tested living crap out of Whirlwind coin door harness, no shorts ground or each other found.
* Whirlwind coin door reinstalled and currently working to design as well, beating on it doesn't not cause false triggers.
So while it is working, I'm going to leave it be. If it starts to happen again, I'll start stripping the wiring off the coin door and see if I can narrow this down.
FOUND IT! I've had given up on this and was just leaving the coin door unplugged. Decided to give it another look tonight and found the issue in 30 seconds....
20210924_205442 (resized).jpg
The coin door slam switch had "tapped" through the paint was was shorting to ground. And as time goes on, more paint would be chipped away and more likely to cause the issue.
20210924_205616 (resized).jpg
A bit of sticky foam tape left over from side rail installs and that solved the issue.
Quoted from pencilneck:The coin door slam switch had "tapped" through the paint was was shorting to ground. And as time goes on, more paint would be chipped away and more likely to cause the issue.
Interesting. Great find!
Quoted from pencilneck:A bit of sticky foam tape left over from side rail installs and that solved the issue.
That definitely works but I believe the switch is installed back-to-front. The plumb bob side of the switch should be AWAY from the coin door. It should wiggle/vibrate freely in the air with the other side of the leaf switch against the coin door.
The switch as shown in the picture is installed correctly; the lead weight should lightly touch the "fish paper" insulator on the inside surface of the coin door. This orientation is intended to actuate the switch if someone whacks ("slams") the exterior of the door (like trying to get a coin to bounce while traveling across the coin switch).
Quoted from jadziedzic:The switch as shown in the picture is installed correctly; the lead weight should lightly touch the "fish paper" insulator on the inside surface of the coin door. This orientation is intended to actuate the switch if someone whacks ("slams") the exterior of the door (like trying to get a coin to bounce while traveling across the coin switch).
Fair enough. I stand corrected. I haven't looked at a coin door in a LONG time and I was operating from memory. Your explanation does make sense. I seem to recall every time I wanted to stop a coin door slam tilt I just bent the weighted side further away from the door.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Got the mypinballs dmd conversion installed this weekend. It’s so strange seeing Whirly with a dmd after all these years. Cool though. Now to learn the rules!!
[quoted image]
This is very cool! Would love to see a video....or do I? Might cost me a lot of money if I see a video
Quoted from Shenanigander:This is very cool! Would love to see a video....or do I? Might cost me a lot of money if I see a video
Sure thing mate. Im a shenanigander so happy to oblige
I’m waiting on a solution to a slightly dim dmd which makes it difficult to film. It’s ok in person but doesn’t film so good. I’ll post a link on here soon
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Sure thing mate. Im a shenanigander so happy to oblige
I’m waiting on a solution to a slightly dim dmd which makes it difficult to film. It’s ok in person but doesn’t film so good. I’ll post a link on here soon
Well, a shenanigander Eh? Bet that doesn't fit on the back of your license?
Quoted from punkin:Well, a shenanigander Eh? Bet that doesn't fit on the back of your license?
When you’re a shenanigander………. You don’t need a licence
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Got the mypinballs dmd conversion installed this weekend. It’s so strange seeing Whirly with a dmd after all these years. Cool though. Now to learn the rules!!
[quoted image]
post a video
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Sure thing mate. Im a shenanigander so happy to oblige
I’m waiting on a solution to a slightly dim dmd which makes it difficult to film. It’s ok in person but doesn’t film so good. I’ll post a link on here soon
Haha even better! Shenaniganders rock!
Quoted from punkin:Well, a shenanigander Eh? Bet that doesn't fit on the back of your license?
Haha that could be a T-shirt though! Shenanigander Eh!
Ok guys. Here’s a link to a quick vid I made. Please understand it’s early code and needs polish. And I’m no Spielberg!!
Hopefully it gives a flavour and I’ll do another vid when I get my new display in. Cheers all.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Ok guys. Here’s a link to a quick vid I made. Please understand it’s early code and needs polish. And I’m no Spielberg!!
Hopefully it gives a flavour and I’ll do another vid when I get my new display in. Cheers all.
Sweet! Subscribed and liked and will check out the video tonight!
Quoted from Shenanigander:Sweet! Subscribed and liked and will check out the video tonight!
Thanks man. I think the game has real potential. Whirly is a keeper for me.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Thanks man. I think the game has real potential. Whirly is a keeper for me.
Great video! The DMD is super awesome! Love the color and animations and the potential for rules upgrades!
I discussed you and Dave and the DMD shenanigans a little bit in a video I will be posting today or tomorrow
Quoted from Shenanigander:Great video! The DMD is super awesome! Love the color and animations and the potential for rules upgrades!
I discussed you and Dave and the DMD shenanigans a little bit in a video I will be posting today or tomorrow
Haha, I can’t wait to watch it mate. Immortalised forever as a shenanigander.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Haha, I can’t wait to watch it mate. Immortalised forever as a shenanigander.
Haha, it is now official
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