(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 5,405 posts
  • 477 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 minutes ago by Gunner007
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There are 5,405 posts in this topic. You are on page 85 of 109.
#4201 2 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

I restored my Whirlwind with a CPR playfield, and was a little disappointed. The issues I ran into were:
* The dimples were worthless. Almost none of them lined up properly.
* None of the topside holes are dimpled / drilled. I tried using tracing paper to determine where to drill the holes, but the art doesn't line up 100%. You'll have to do a little guesswork.
* There is a post hole towards the back of the playfield that did not line up properly and prevented me from installing the lane guides. I had to widen the hole a little for everything to fit properly.

Dimples on the bottom, yeah, maybe 50% of them were correct. But for those that were not, I just lined up hardware and used pick to create my own new dimple, wasn't a big deal.
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For the few holes I needed to drill up top, I used a centering punch and square to line things up without issue:
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Same issue with that post hole in the rear of the playfield. I made an offset post.
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I do like how they are faithful to the left flipper ball hope design. Shameless plug for the bushing I'm selling in post #4166 here.

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#4202 2 years ago

Has anyone successfully removed the mylar from a Whirlwind playfield with no damage? Mine is coming up in spots and I have a few raised inserts I need to fix. I would use the freeze spray method with flour and rubbing alcohol for removing the glue. That is unless others have a better way.

As an fyi, i successfully removed mylar from a Bride of Pinbot with the above method, but used dry ice. So figured it would be the same as that one.

#4203 2 years ago
Quoted from Cudaman:

Has anyone successfully removed the mylar from a Whirlwind playfield with no damage? Mine is coming up in spots and I have a few raised inserts I need to fix. I would use the freeze spray method with flour and rubbing alcohol for removing the glue. That is unless others have a better way.
As an fyi, i successfully removed mylar from a Bride of Pinbot with the above method, but used dry ice. So figured it would be the same as that one.

System 11...proceed with caution.

#4204 2 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I would probably go Mirco - see above thread as to why. Not saying Mirco is going to be perfect, but I have heard better things.

I’d personally go CPR. Mirco doesn’t stand by his product, refuses to help and puts the blame on his customers. A monumental ass clown!!

#4205 2 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I would probably go Mirco - see above thread as to why. Not saying Mirco is going to be perfect, but I have heard better things.

Verify current run fields have all insert labels before buying mirco.

#4206 2 years ago
Quoted from Cudaman:

Has anyone successfully removed the mylar from a Whirlwind playfield with no damage? Mine is coming up in spots and I have a few raised inserts I need to fix. I would use the freeze spray method with flour and rubbing alcohol for removing the glue. That is unless others have a better way.
As an fyi, i successfully removed mylar from a Bride of Pinbot with the above method, but used dry ice. So figured it would be the same as that one.

I did it with a can of freeze spray and a lot of time removing the residual glue. Turned out great though. No issues

#4207 2 years ago
Quoted from Cudaman:

Has anyone successfully removed the mylar from a Whirlwind playfield with no damage? Mine is coming up in spots and I have a few raised inserts I need to fix. I would use the freeze spray method with flour and rubbing alcohol for removing the glue. That is unless others have a better way.
As an fyi, i successfully removed mylar from a Bride of Pinbot with the above method, but used dry ice. So figured it would be the same as that one.

I haven't on my Whirlwind but did on my Taxi. I used the upside down airspray freeze method and it worked great. Removing the glue was the hardest part. I read a recommendation to use alcohol and flour and it worked but made a terrible mess that was almost as hard to clean up as the glue. I would recommend trying a citrus cleaner first or maybe just alcohol.

I might also note that I had a pretty visible color difference between the area under the mylar and without mylar. Probably the mylar protects from UV fade and definitely from general wear. I needed to repaint all these sections so you might want to be prepared to have to do something. To be fair, my Taxi was pretty poor shape so maybe not an issue for you.
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#4208 2 years ago

Still my favorite game after all these years...

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#4209 2 years ago
Quoted from blubboman:

Hi all
I am making spinner decals for Bally/Williams stuff that have these holographic decals - many games from the 80's and 90's. In general they are $2.50 shipped in the US for a pair and $4.00 shipped international for a pair. Shipping stays the same if you buy more.
PM me if interested.
Dan
[quoted image]

Cannot recommend these enough. They are awesome!

#4210 2 years ago

Anybody else's Whirlwind just an airball machine? I get airballs on mine every couple of games and...I...LOVE IT!

I don't care about broken plastics - those can be replaced (and I have back up sets). I want the ball to be as wild as possible...especially on this game. So much fun!

#4211 2 years ago

Got my dmd conversion kit coming soon. Can’t wait to try it

#4212 2 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Got my dmd conversion kit coming soon. Can’t wait to try it

I want to see that!

#4213 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I want to see that!

I’ll post on here mate. Luckily Mypinballs is friend of mine so I’m able to get my hands on one a little earlier. Will be early revision board etc...
I think he may be selling build your own kits for the brave among you

#4214 2 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

I’ll post on here mate. Luckily Mypinballs is friend of mine so I’m able to get my hands on one a little earlier. Will be early revision board etc...
I think he may be selling build your own kits for the brave among you

so realistically, how soon will he have full blown ready to go kits for sale?

#4215 2 years ago

I am purely guessing here so take it with a pinch of salt but maybe within 4 months

#4216 2 years ago

WTB a Whirlwind Translite if anyone has a nice or NOS one. PM me. Thanks!

#4217 2 years ago

Does anyone know the thread size on the spinning disc adjustable "knobs" under pf? I am trying to clean up some ultra rusty ones and i would like to run a die over the threads to tighten them up

Thanks,

4 weeks later
#4218 2 years ago

I notice on my Whirlwind it seems to have an issue where the mechanical ramp will not sit flush with the playfield when the mechanism pushes it down. I'm pretty sure this isn't normal, but just wanted to check.

Anyone know what to potentially look for to fix that issue? This Whirlwind has many, many issues btw; the previous owner had left it outside under a tarp in new england weather for years.

Also yes, it is extremely dirty and I haven't gotten around to extensively cleaning it yet.

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#4219 2 years ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

I notice on my Whirlwind it seems to have an issue where the mechanical ramp will not sit flush with the playfield when the mechanism pushes it down. I'm pretty sure this isn't normal, but just wanted to check.
Anyone know what to potentially look for to fix that issue? This Whirlwind has many, many issues btw; the previous owner had left it outside under a tarp in new england weather for years.
Also yes, it is extremely dirty and I haven't gotten around to extensively cleaning it yet.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

So it actually doesn’t push the ramp down. A coil activates to release a pin holding the ramp up and gravity does the rest. There is a switch to detect if it actually dropped or not. If it’s not dropping all the way down, the hinge for the ramp may need some type of lubrication or maybe even replaced. I got a new one for mine and at first it wasn’t dropping all the way but as I used it, it loosened up and is dropping every time.

#4220 2 years ago

Could someone take a picture of there diagnostic switch wiring. My high score reset switch broke and someone clipped the wires. I bought a replacement 3 bank switch and want to solder in the the paired green and white wire to the correct lugs. My guess is the right side bottom and middle lugs. Can someone confirm, be helpful before proceeding.

Thanks in advance!

WW1.jpg.pdfWW1.jpg.pdfWW2.jpg.pdfWW2.jpg.pdf
#4221 2 years ago

Right middle-green
Right bottom-white x2
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#4222 2 years ago

Thanks tdddddd, exactly what I needed to see. My original guess seems to be correct! Thanks again!!

Quoted from tdddddd:

Right middle-green
Right bottom-white x2
[quoted image]

#4223 2 years ago

Added pinstadiums to the machine and really torn what color I should stick with . Bright white or soft white .
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#4224 2 years ago

Bright white has my vote.

#4225 2 years ago

I usually like Bright white but for this machine I think it makes it too blue especially at the back. I know the camera makes it worse - but the Soft white works with the yellows and blends the blue.

man, I need to add Pin Stadiums to my Whirlwind...

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#4226 2 years ago

I have a couple of issues I would love some help with. The first is one Ive had since I got the game and never been able to resolve and the second one is more recent.

First, none of the "Skyway Tolls Collected" lights work at all. I have continuity on the yellow black wire from J20 on the Interconnect board right down to the light board. Could it be the light board itself or is there something else on the Interconnect board I can check that might be causing it?

The second issue is a more recent one I have noticed. I am not being awarded the Super Cellar Door awards. I have tried manually activating the switch on the right inlane (it makes a noise and awards points when I do it - so that switch is working), then putting the ball in the cellar (the right one with the yellow light), but I don't get given any award for it. But it obviously knows the ball is in there as it then kicks it out of the left cellar hole??? Thoughts?

#4227 2 years ago
Quoted from Slash:

I have a couple of issues I would love some help with. The first is one Ive had since I got the game and never been able to resolve and the second one is more recent.
First, none of the "Skyway Tolls Collected" lights work at all. I have continuity on the yellow black wire from J20 on the Interconnect board right down to the light board. Could it be the light board itself or is there something else on the Interconnect board I can check that might be causing it?
The second issue is a more recent one I have noticed. I am not being awarded the Super Cellar Door awards. I have tried manually activating the switch on the right inlane (it makes a noise and awards points when I do it - so that switch is working), then putting the ball in the cellar (the right one with the yellow light), but I don't get given any award for it. But it obviously knows the ball is in there as it then kicks it out of the left cellar hole??? Thoughts?

There's a second switch in the subway between the two scoops. If it sees that switch first, it registers as the right scoop, otherwise, it thinks you went in the left

#4228 2 years ago
Quoted from Slash:

I have a couple of issues I would love some help with. The first is one Ive had since I got the game and never been able to resolve and the second one is more recent.
First, none of the "Skyway Tolls Collected" lights work at all. I have continuity on the yellow black wire from J20 on the Interconnect board right down to the light board. Could it be the light board itself or is there something else on the Interconnect board I can check that might be causing it?
The second issue is a more recent one I have noticed. I am not being awarded the Super Cellar Door awards. I have tried manually activating the switch on the right inlane (it makes a noise and awards points when I do it - so that switch is working), then putting the ball in the cellar (the right one with the yellow light), but I don't get given any award for it. But it obviously knows the ball is in there as it then kicks it out of the left cellar hole??? Thoughts?

Why don't you check for continuity from the cpu board to the innerconnect board on the yellow/black wire.

#4229 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Why don't you check for continuity from the cpu board to the innerconnect board on the yellow/black wire.

Slight error in my previous post. I can confirm that I have continuity on the yellow black from the lamp board under the playfield up to the J3 LAMPS ROW/COLUMNS on the Interconnect Board (I previously incorrectly said J20). I also have continuity from there (J3) to 1J7 on the CPU Board.

#4230 2 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

There's a second switch in the subway between the two scoops. If it sees that switch first, it registers as the right scoop, otherwise, it thinks you went in the left

When I go into switch test and manually activate the switch in the right cellar (the one it first encounters) it registers. Maybe its not protruding enough into the subway assembly so when the ball rolls past it isn't pressing it down far enough to activate??

#4231 2 years ago
Quoted from Slash:

When I go into switch test and manually activate the switch in the right cellar (the one it first encounters) it registers. Maybe its not protruding enough into the subway assembly so when the ball rolls past it isn't pressing it down far enough to activate??

Fixed this issue, I swapped out the switch for a slightly different shaped one and it registers now when the ball goes through. I think the switch that was on there wasn't being full depressed/activated as the ball went past.

That just leaves my lamp issue now.

#4232 2 years ago
Quoted from Slash:

Fixed this issue, I swapped out the switch for a slightly different shaped one and it registers now when the ball goes through. I think the switch that was on there wasn't being full depressed/activated as the ball went past.
That just leaves my lamp issue now.

Are your lamps led by chance? Mine wouldn’t work at all with LED flashers but worked perfect with incandescent. I think incandescent flashers look better anyway.

#4233 2 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Are your lamps led by chance? Mine wouldn’t work at all with LED flashers but worked perfect with incandescent. I think incandescent flashers look better anyway.

Ive got LED's in the game with the exception of the flashers which are incandescent. Regardless those bulbs in the "Skyway Tolls Collected lamp board" are #555's anyhow. I swapped them back over to incandescent just for the hell of it to check and they didn't work either.

#4234 2 years ago
Quoted from Slash:

Ive got LED's in the game with the exception of the flashers which are incandescent. Regardless those bulbs in the "Skyway Tolls Collected lamp board" are #555's anyhow. I swapped them back over to incandescent just for the hell of it to check and they didn't work either.

Ohhhh! I misread! I was thinking of the red dome flashers on the ramp and not the lamp board for the tolls. Those are on the lamp matrix so I would think a broken wire somewhere. For all of them to be down it has to be directly connected. If there were more problems with the lamps maybe a cpu issue but if it’s just one row or column probably a break somewhere in the line wether it be from
The interconnect to cpu or from the interconnect to the lamp board underneath. Usually reflowing the solder does the trick for those types of boards but if you’ve already tried that there is a high chance of a wire break.

#4235 2 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Ohhhh! I misread! I was thinking of the red dome flashers on the ramp and not the lamp board for the tolls. Those are on the lamp matrix so I would think a broken wire somewhere. For all of them to be down it has to be directly connected. If there were more problems with the lamps maybe a cpu issue but if it’s just one row or column probably a break somewhere in the line wether it be from
The interconnect to cpu or from the interconnect to the lamp board underneath. Usually reflowing the solder does the trick for those types of boards but if you’ve already tried that there is a high chance of a wire break.

I put one probe of the DMM into the back of the molex connector for the yellow/black wire down on the lamp board. I then put the other probe into the back of the molex connector for the yellow/black wire on the Interconnect Board and got the "buzz" tone, I then moved that probe into the back of the same wire on the CPU board and got the "buzz" tone as well. So it would seem that I have continuity from the lamp board right up to the CPU Board. So would reflowing the solder on the boards as you suggest help in this instance?

Separate question, if one of the individual red wires for each of the lamps on that board is broken that would only affect that specific lamp from working not the whole board right?

#4236 2 years ago
Quoted from Slash:

I put one probe of the DMM into the back of the molex connector for the yellow/black wire down on the lamp board. I then put the other probe into the back of the molex connector for the yellow/black wire on the Interconnect Board and got the "buzz" tone, I then moved that probe into the back of the same wire on the CPU board and got the "buzz" tone as well. So it would seem that I have continuity from the lamp board right up to the CPU Board. So would reflowing the solder on the boards as you suggest help in this instance?
Separate question, if one of the individual red wires for each of the lamps on that board is broken that would only affect that specific lamp from working not the whole board right?

Are all 8 toll lamps not working?

#4237 2 years ago

Yes if it was just one lamp then it would be an individual red+ stripe color. If it’s all of them it could be a bad solder joint on the ground pin on the bottom of the lamp board. Whenever I get a new game I take the time to reflow solder on all under playfield boards and address anything else as needed. Are any of the connectors burnt? Usually it’s the GI this happens to but you never know.

#4238 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Are all 8 toll lamps not working?

Yes all 8 aren't working.

#4239 2 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Yes if it was just one lamp then it would be an individual red+ stripe color. If it’s all of them it could be a bad solder joint on the ground pin on the bottom of the lamp board. Whenever I get a new game I take the time to reflow solder on all under playfield boards and address anything else as needed. Are any of the connectors burnt? Usually it’s the GI this happens to but you never know.

You hit the nail on the head!! I reflowed the solder on the ground pin and bingo it finally works.

Thank you VERY much - that's driven me crazy for ages!!!

#4240 2 years ago

Glad I was able to help! Would be a great idea to go through and do that on every lamp board and maybe even the opto boards to promote longevity.

#4241 2 years ago

Well...I won't be "in the club" much longer.
Someone heard about my high end restored Whirlwind and made me an offer I couldn't refuse.
It'll be missed...but I suppose I can always restore another one.

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1 week later
#4244 2 years ago

Hello Whirlwinders, anyone knows what kind of insert plastic sits in the middle of the compass (red) with the radar decal on ?
I need to replace mine, but couldn't find anything about it in the manual.

Would be a great help for me.

Thanks

Daniel

#4245 2 years ago

Does anyone know if a WPC lockdown bar receiver will work on this game? I have a fairly nice example but it’s got a pretty ugly lockdown bar receiver. Underside, outside and playfield look great though so would love to get rid of this one eyesore.

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#4246 2 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Does anyone know if a WPC lockdown bar receiver will work on this game?

No, the slots for the bar tabs are positioned differently. Clean yours up the best you can, and get one of these...
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=133

#4247 2 years ago

I'm willing to bet it can be cleaned up and look great again. How mine started off:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/oDqZXxEp5EELB4NH6

I sandblasted it, then rattle can Rustoleum Metallic Finish spray paint and it ended up like this:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/1xgBEZfCHJtBqWmR7

A wire wheel brush on a drill and some elbow grease can get it cleaned up real good before painting if you don't have access to sandblasting toys.

#4248 2 years ago

Williams Whirlwind pinball machine review, i think its the BEST system 11 pinball machine ever...
Link to video review, i love this pin!!

#4249 2 years ago

Hi guys, first post here! I joined the club a couple weeks ago when I purchased this beautiful WW from Bryan (6T9judge). Was a pleasure talking with him for most of the evening and seeing his incredible collection. He powdercoated the machine a gray texture and it looks sharp. It is my first pin and I can't stop playing it!

I've been an arcade guy for a while and have a little living room arcade setup but only room for a single pin...I think I picked a good one. Deceptively challenging with the easy drains but highly rewarding when things are going your way. The experience of the wind blowing at you, lights flashing all around and the music booming is really incredible. I hit the three way combo earlier this week by pure luck and once I heard the siren, I started running around the house like a little kid. Amazing game!

Here's a picture of my arcade setup and of course, my new WW! Behind the WW is an asteriods cabinet. Across from asteroids is a galaxian with a bitkit running multiple games. The KI2 cab has a 6 way switcher with MK2, UMK3, MK4, KI and KI2. The Neo Geo goldie is in the process of restore.
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#4250 2 years ago
Quoted from mycarlooksfast:

Hi guys, first post here! I joined the club a couple weeks ago when I purchased this beautiful WW from Bryan (6T9judge). Was a pleasure talking with him for most of the evening and seeing his incredible collection. He powdercoated the machine a gray texture and it looks sharp. It is my first pin and I can't stop playing it!
I've been an arcade guy for a while and have a little living room arcade setup but only room for a single pin...I think I picked a good one. Deceptively challenging with the easy drains but highly rewarding when things are going your way. The experience of the wind blowing at you, lights flashing all around and the music booming is really incredible. I hit the three way combo earlier this week by pure luck and once I heard the siren, I started running around the house like a little kid. Amazing game!
Here's a picture of my arcade setup and of course, my new WW! Behind the WW is an asteriods cabinet. Across from asteroids is a galaxian with a bitkit running multiple games. The KI2 cab has a 6 way switcher with MK2, UMK3, MK4, KI and KI2. The Neo Geo goldie is in the process of restore.
[quoted image]

Congrats. You picked a really nice first pin.

All great games there.

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