(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 5,409 posts
  • 477 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Gunner007
  • Topic is favorited by 219 Pinsiders

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There are 5,409 posts in this topic. You are on page 82 of 109.
#4051 3 years ago

Just joined the club. This guy needs some work though. Not booting right now but has some good new parts like new ramps, topper and fan. This will be going into the shop tomorrow, hopefully I don't get to crazy and end up doing a playfield swap which wouldn't be a bad thing either on this great classic.

20210116_162942_HDR (resized).jpg20210116_162942_HDR (resized).jpg
#4052 3 years ago

Anyone have a used FUBAR wallhanger playfield that they'd be willing to donate/sell for cheap for a homebrew concept? My wife and I have been using the dimensions of my Whirlwind to sketch out some ideas but we really need a dead playfield to draw on and start building ramps/mechs off of.

#4053 3 years ago

going back to my post on page 81

Can anyone tell me where

1) the 2 wires of the red bottom right flasher are normally connected to ?

2) Same for the 2 orange wires from yellow bonus per sweep flasher. 2 cables (ORN - BLK/BRN) are connected on both ends. One ORN isn't (only connected on flasher).

3) Same for the orange wire of the middle (red) flasher of the compass.

4) One BLK/BRN cable is loose (might be needed for RED right flasher ?)

Thx

Added over 3 years ago:

Case solved & closed. Connected all ORN together and BLK together. That simple....

#4054 3 years ago

Not that anyone here would want to, but if someone in SoCal is looking to leave the club I am looking to join. This is the first pin I remember playing on location (at the local roller rink back in the 90s) and I'd love to be able to bring one home. Super fun and super good vibes attached to this machine. Thanks all!

#4055 3 years ago
Quoted from onemilemore:

I am looking to join. This is the first pin I remember playing on location (at the local roller rink back

Sent you PM

1 week later
#4056 3 years ago

looking for this shooter gauge decal for my funhouse restore......anyone have an extra laying around?
same as whirlwind

shooter decal (236x108) (resized).jpgshooter decal (236x108) (resized).jpg
#4057 3 years ago

Just ordered the center post for my game. Is this thing supposed to sit flush, or did I get the wrong one!?
44D122B4-2DF1-4029-90B6-8299FB4476BB (resized).jpeg44D122B4-2DF1-4029-90B6-8299FB4476BB (resized).jpeg

#4058 3 years ago
Quoted from Mahoyvan:

Just ordered the center post for my game. Is this thing supposed to sit flush, or did I get the wrong one!?
[quoted image]

Well that makes no sense! whats preventing the post from going through the hole?!? If you buried the nut on the threads and that's a gap that's left over, put a few washers underneath.

#4059 3 years ago

Had this issue with my CPR and the same post. Ended up just drilling it out.

#4060 3 years ago

Are you sure that is the correct part? Look at the base, hex on there. Same part on my ES and DE Simpsons as well.

asdfasdfasdf (resized).jpgasdfasdfasdf (resized).jpg

... edit... so some more digging, looks like the original types of post are not really available anymore. Whirlwind manual, page 77, shows item number 1 as part number 02-4003. Searching that matches up what you've got.

Then I find this oddity:
https://www.coinoperatorshop.com/en/Automats/Pinball/Spareparts/Post-Metall/Post.html

Same part number, but more in line with what I suspect was originally used.

#4061 3 years ago

Got the part number right from the manual!
It’s like the threads need to run further up the post... the threadless part bottoms out at the T-Nut.

Looks like we’re goin no post :/

#4062 3 years ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

Are you sure that is the correct part? Look at the base, hex on there. Same part on my ES and DE Simpsons.
[quoted image]

Hmm, that looks correct... I’m gonna look for that. Thanks!

#4063 3 years ago

The one on my WW has a completely round base, no hex

#4064 3 years ago
Quoted from Mahoyvan:

Got the part number right from the manual!
It’s like the threads need to run further up the post... the threadless part bottoms out at the T-Nut.
Looks like we’re goin no post :/

If it hits a T-nut, then tap the T-nut out and just use a washer and nylon nut on the bottom side, easy and done. If you happen to have a 8-32 die, you can cut more threads into it.

Standing here drinking and thinking... I think the issue is the original part was used 1 time on some pins, so kind of rare and not worth doing a repo. Where as what is being sold as a replacement was a more commonly used item and is "close enough" to work.

#4065 3 years ago

Last year, I finished my Whirlwind restoration.
Full chrome, RadCals, new playfield, new plastics, mirrored backglass...the list goes on and on.
I restored 4 cabinets at the same time while doing Whirlwind (I don't ever want to do that again)
Enjoy!

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#4066 3 years ago

Here is what I have

20210206_234323.jpg20210206_234323.jpg
#4067 3 years ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

If it hits a T-nut, then tap the T-nut out and just use a washer and nylon nut on the bottom side, easy and done.

Yes, this. Mine does not have a T-nut, it has the washer and nylock nut, and it came that way from the factory. I suspect someone added the T-nut on yours, its not supposed to be there. My Earthshaker however, does have the hex base post and T-nut style post... The only time Williams used the hex-base post and T-nut style, is if there's an assembly under the PF that mounts directly under that post (usually a flipper assy), and Whirlwind does not.
The post you bought is the correct one, its not supposed to have the hex-base, but it cant be used with a T-nut. Alternately, if you use the post WITH a hex at the base, you HAVE to use a T-nut.

The shaft of the post (you bought) with the round base is longer, so that it protrudes far enough through the PF, so you can get the washer & nut on the back.

#4068 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeffreyjonesbsme:

Last year, I finished my Whirlwind restoration.
Full chrome, RadCals, new playfield, new plastics, mirrored backglass...the list goes on and on.
I restored 4 cabinets at the same time while doing Whirlwind (I don't ever want to do that again)
Enjoy!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's beautiful man!!! It's your resto which has pushed me to go full chrome on my WW resto. Just looks so good!!

#4069 3 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

looking for this shooter gauge decal for my funhouse restore......anyone have an extra laying around?
same as whirlwind
[quoted image]

bump.........still looking

shooter decal (236x108) (resized).jpgshooter decal (236x108) (resized).jpg
#4070 3 years ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

That's beautiful man!!! It's your resto which has pushed me to go full chrome on my WW resto. Just looks so good!!

full chrome package on fresh blue decals (WW and WH20) looks so nice.

#4071 3 years ago

Anyone have a backyard replacement fix for the correct ramp lift bolt? Mine broke and it costs more to ship the correct bolt than it does to buy it. Asked Marco if they would send one in an envelope and they declined. Thanks.

#4072 3 years ago

Hey guys
I got a new set of plastics. For the ones that re riveted, Do you know which rivets and rivet tool I need to connect the replacements? I’ve used small 4/40 screws and nuts in the past but I prefer the look of the rivets. There are lots of rivet options on Marco.

Thanks!
Rich

#4073 3 years ago

I have an original play field that I swapped into mine and I had to order some posts. The ones currently available do not fit through the play field in most cases. I ended up drilling the hole larger to make them fit

#4074 3 years ago
Quoted from Bospins:

Hey guys
I got a new set of plastics. For the ones that re riveted, Do you know which rivets and rivet tool I need to connect the replacements? I’ve used small 4/40 screws and nuts in the past but I prefer the look of the rivets. There are lots of rivet options on Marco.
Thanks!
Rich

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whirlwind-club-members-only/page/50#post-4685717

#4075 3 years ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Anyone have a backyard replacement fix for the correct ramp lift bolt? Mine broke and it costs more to ship the correct bolt than it does to buy it. Asked Marco if they would send one in an envelope and they declined. Thanks.

I took a post screw cut it down to 3/4 In length then put a nut on it and tightened it against the arm. Been working for 5 years like that.... Thanks for the reminder actually I do need to add that to my next order.

#4076 3 years ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Anyone have a backyard replacement fix for the correct ramp lift bolt? Mine broke and it costs more to ship the correct bolt than it does to buy it. Asked Marco if they would send one in an envelope and they declined. Thanks.

You can't put shit in envelopes. The mail sorting machines shred it to smithereens.

#4077 3 years ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Anyone have a backyard replacement fix for the correct ramp lift bolt? Mine broke and it costs more to ship the correct bolt than it does to buy it. Asked Marco if they would send one in an envelope and they declined. Thanks.

I have one I bought from Marco...but when it arrived, the "bolt" part was thicker than the original.
I ended up not trying it and used my original instead.
I'll sell it to you...but like I said, it's untested.

#4078 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeffreyjonesbsme:

I have one I bought from Marco...but when it arrived, the "bolt" part was thicker than the original.
I ended up not trying it and used my original instead.
I'll sell it to you...but like I said, it's untested.

Thanks, I put together a Marco order yesterday and also bought a bunch of random stuff--hopefully the lift bolt will fit my lift arm--we'll see.

#4079 3 years ago

Swappin out my lights for LED, but leavin’ the flashers as incandescent. Can someone enlighten me as to what spec or part# is for the larger one on the right so I can order a bunch of backups?

96700DAF-F049-40A9-807E-26F479A040F5 (resized).jpeg96700DAF-F049-40A9-807E-26F479A040F5 (resized).jpeg
#4080 3 years ago
Quoted from Mahoyvan:

Swappin out my lights for LED, but leavin’ the flashers as incandescent. Can someone enlighten me as to what spec or part# is for the larger one on the right so I can order a bunch of backups?
[quoted image]

Thats a 906 flasher bulb

#4081 3 years ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Thats a 906 flasher bulb

Thank you!

#4082 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeffreyjonesbsme:

I have one I bought from Marco...but when it arrived, the "bolt" part was thicker than the original.
I ended up not trying it and used my original instead.
I'll sell it to you...but like I said, it's untested.

The lift bolt I just received from Marco worked perfectly.

#4083 3 years ago
Quoted from Billy16:

The lift bolt I just received from Marco worked perfectly.

I think there are two thicknesses in the gussets under the lift ramp. One that can handle a whole pin, and another than can only handle a half.

#4084 3 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

I think there are two thicknesses in the gussets under the lift ramp. One that can handle a whole pin, and another than can only handle a half.

I knew a girl like that once.

#4085 3 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

I knew a girl like that once.

Hahahaha

1 week later
#4086 3 years ago

What modifications if any, have you all done with the pop bumper caps and the associated lighting. I’ve seen clear and also the traditional with led disks.

#4087 3 years ago
Quoted from Budman:

What modifications if any, have you all done with the pop bumper caps and the associated lighting. I’ve seen clear and also the traditional with led disks.

I don't know if you meant rings when you mentioned the traditional disks. Here's mine with Comet rings. I like them because they also shed a lot of light on the playfield below.

IMG_3458 (resized).JPGIMG_3458 (resized).JPG

IMG_3459 (resized).JPGIMG_3459 (resized).JPG
#4088 3 years ago

They look great, way better than traditional. How do you think they would look with clear caps? So, colored LED rings with clear caps ?

#4089 3 years ago
Quoted from Budman:

They look great, way better than traditional. How do you think they would look with clear caps? So, colored LED rings with clear caps ?

That may not look right since there are times when the rings aren't lit.

#4090 3 years ago

keep in mind that if you do use the rings, you will have to perform some surgery on one and solder a couple contacts to make all of the lights work.

IMG_20191015_132635 (resized).jpgIMG_20191015_132635 (resized).jpg
#4091 3 years ago

Anybody done a restoration of the wood around the spinning disks? Like many Whirlwind's, the wood around my spinning disks is worn down/exposed as wood. But, unsure anything can be done.

#4092 3 years ago

if you contact classiarcades they made me a repair decal for that area

#4093 3 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

keep in mind that if you do use the rings, you will have to perform some surgery on one and solder a couple contacts to make all of the lights work.[quoted image]

It depends on where you make the cut. I didn't have to do the soldering "surgery" on mine.

#4094 3 years ago

Hi, about to be joining the club soon, and have some questions regarding the topper. If I had the plastic topper housing, and separately I had the fan motor and fan blade. Would those two things be enough to to make the topper work? And also is there a control board associated with the topper? Thx

#4095 3 years ago
Quoted from Jackpotjared:

Hi, about to be joining the club soon, and have some questions regarding the topper. If I had the plastic topper housing, and separately I had the fan motor and fan blade. Would those two things be enough to to make the topper work? And also is there a control board associated with the topper? Thx

There is also a bracket that holds the fan, do you have it? if not you can probably make one or buy it from Marco. Marco actually has ALL the pieces you need to build a topper. I just did it not long ago. I had to also build the wiring harness that goes to the controller board.

1 week later
#4096 3 years ago

Hopefully this fixed the stupid left lane ballhop... original playfield did, CRP playfield does it as well... so I've come up with this dohicky to fix the issue.

4XXcc9h (resized).jpeg4XXcc9h (resized).jpeg6HFvCPV (resized).jpeg6HFvCPV (resized).jpegV6oAAyJ (resized).jpegV6oAAyJ (resized).jpeg

It seems to work pretty good:
https://i.imgur.com/MIca3mJ.mp4

This is a first draft as it were, I'll most likely go back and make another one out of black plastic. During game play you can't see it and as it is, it doesn't really stand out as you walk up to the game.

#4097 3 years ago

You could just buy the enhanced ball guide from Cliffy. Will fix you right up and no dohickey needed. I put them on all my games, they work amazing.

#4098 3 years ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

Hopefully this fixed the stupid left lane ballhop... original playfield did, CRP playfield does it as well... so I've come up with this dohicky to fix the issue.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It seems to work pretty good:
https://i.imgur.com/MIca3mJ.mp4
This is a first draft as it were, I'll most likely go back and make another one out of black plastic. During game play you can't see it and as it is, it doesn't really stand out as you walk up to the game.

Nice idea. Should be pretty simple to 3D print.

#4099 3 years ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

Hopefully this fixed the stupid left lane ballhop... original playfield did, CRP playfield does it as well... so I've come up with this dohicky to fix the issue.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It seems to work pretty good:
https://i.imgur.com/MIca3mJ.mp4
This is a first draft as it were, I'll most likely go back and make another one out of black plastic. During game play you can't see it and as it is, it doesn't really stand out as you walk up to the game.

I'd like to buy a set of dohicky's if they were made available.

#4100 3 years ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

Hopefully this fixed the stupid left lane ballhop... original playfield did, CRP playfield does it as well... so I've come up with this dohicky to fix the issue.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It seems to work pretty good:
https://i.imgur.com/MIca3mJ.mp4
This is a first draft as it were, I'll most likely go back and make another one out of black plastic. During game play you can't see it and as it is, it doesn't really stand out as you walk up to the game.

I've had the same issue here- and even with a Cliffy set it's still hoppin'. I'd definitely be interested in one if you want to make some extras.

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