(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 477 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by punkin
  • Topic is favorited by 219 Pinsiders

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There are 5,404 posts in this topic. You are on page 81 of 109.
#4001 3 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

stripped mine down for shop job, forgot which side the metal slide that goes under upper lift ramp goes on, and is the flat side of the the pin that raises and lowers ramp go up or down?

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#4002 3 years ago
Quoted from not4tilts:

The diverter is 100% functioning normal. It opened for the ball. I really think there was some race condition in the logic.

Have you run diagnostics and confirmed all three switches in the lock lane? I'm wondering if it's not detecting the second ball being locked.

#4003 3 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

[quoted image][quoted image]

The flat part comes from wear over time. It wears on the top so it should be up but doesnt need to be.

#4004 3 years ago
Quoted from jhanley:

The flat part comes from wear over time. It wears on the top so it should be up but doesnt need to be.

And if you buy a remade ramp, the gusset is narrow and will only fit a worn pin. I had to reuse the original gusset on mine.

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#4005 3 years ago
Quoted from not4tilts:

The diverter is 100% functioning normal. It opened for the ball. I really think there was some race condition in the logic.

Mine raises the ramp before serving the ball if I recall correctly.

Edit: yup with 2 in the lock and multiball ready the ramp raised before the ball was served

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#4006 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Mine raises the ramp before serving the ball if I recall correctly.
Edit: yup with 2 in the lock and multiball ready the ramp raised before the ball was served
[quoted image]

Interesting - thanks for that. The difference might be that with a two player game, I didn't have credit for two balls locked when I plunged and I still had to get a compass point before it gave me a shot at lock.

My curiosity is peaked enough now though that I will pull the glass and set up the same conditions again and see if I can recreate it.

#4007 3 years ago

Hey guys

I’m getting a clicking noise in the back box, seems like it clicks every second or so in sequence. The game still plays but haven’t played since it happened. Any ideas?

#4008 3 years ago

Sounds like your relay mate. Is it constant? Obviously it should click and certain times as it flashes the gi

#4009 3 years ago

So Titan are having a black Saturday sale and I need a rubber kit for my Whirlwind which I'll soon be restoring... Traditional white or translucent, what do you think?

#4010 3 years ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

So Titan are having a black Saturday sale and I need a rubber kit for my Whirlwind which I'll soon be restoring... Traditional white or translucent, what do you think?

I actually like white rings with orange posts & flippers.

#4011 3 years ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

So Titan are having a black Saturday sale and I need a rubber kit for my Whirlwind which I'll soon be restoring... Traditional white or translucent, what do you think?

I’ve been pondering the same decision. I’m an originality nut and have white rings in now. But have been thinking about translucent, as far as to look up the kit on Titan and print the list off.... does anyone have translucent rings in now that can share a few pics for us?

#4012 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I’ve been pondering the same decision. I’m an originality nut and have white rings in now. But have been thinking about translucent, as far as to look up the kit on Titan and print the list off.... does anyone have translucent rings in now that can share a few pics for us?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whirlwind-club-members-only/page/51#post-4760562

Not my pics.

#4013 3 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Sounds like your relay mate. Is it constant? Obviously it should click and certain times as it flashes the gi

Thanks for the feedback yes the clicking was coming from my relay but has since stopped.
the entrance gate microswitch is now not working on the side ramp.
That switch seems to turn on lights once the ball enters the ramp? Correct me if I’m wrong.
Wonder if that is a separate issue or not

#4014 3 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

[quoted image][quoted image]

is this the way the post goes thru the guide though? nut on one side, flange base on the other side of the guide?

#4015 3 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

is this the way the post goes thru the guide though? nut on one side, flange base on the other side of the guide?

yes

#4016 3 years ago

I am still having issues with my cellar kickout. The kickout strength is pretty variable, sometimes it fires out well, sometimes it comes out weakly. Also every 10-15 games there will be a click when it is supposed to fire, nothing happens though and then the game will go into ball search. It won't fire that solenoid during ball search after the click happens. If it goes into ball search for any other reason (without the click issue happening) the solenoid fires fine. I have already replaced the solenoid and replaced the plunger.

Any ideas?

#4017 3 years ago

looking for a nice Whirlwind in the Southeast somewhere if anyone has a lead...

thx

#4018 3 years ago
Quoted from PantherCityPins:

I am still having issues with my cellar kickout. The kickout strength is pretty variable, sometimes it fires out well, sometimes it comes out weakly. Also every 10-15 games there will be a click when it is supposed to fire, nothing happens though and then the game will go into ball search. It won't fire that solenoid during ball search after the click happens. If it goes into ball search for any other reason (without the click issue happening) the solenoid fires fine. I have already replaced the solenoid and replaced the plunger.
Any ideas?

Make sure your machine is leveled properly,I was having the same issue.
When the machine is not shooting the ball out, try shaking the machine a bit to see if the ball touches the switch properly.
Check the switch also and make sure it is properly aligned. Can’t hurt to try

#4019 3 years ago

I am getting a lot of rejects from the lift ramp saucer. Can anyone recommend a tweak or fix? I was thinking about bending the metal "backboard" behind it down slightly, but wasn't sure if anyone has added foam/rubber.

Thanks!

#4020 3 years ago

Does your's have a piece of rubber/foam like this on it? I believe it's supposed to.

https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/blue-rubber-pad-with-adhesive-backing-23-6645/

When I did my restore I forgot to add it and it wouldn't stay in there at all. That said, even when I added it I was still getting rejected from the saucer about 50% of the time. I tried changing the orientation of the rubber so instead of going down the metal "backboard", I rotated it 90 degrees so it was straight accross it. That seemed to help a lot, although I still get occasional rejects.

#4021 3 years ago
Quoted from Slash:

Does your's have a piece of rubber/foam like this on it? I believe it's supposed to.
https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/blue-rubber-pad-with-adhesive-backing-23-6645/
When I did my restore I forgot to add it and it wouldn't stay in there at all. That said, even when I added it I was still getting rejected from the saucer about 50% of the time. I tried changing the orientation of the rubber so instead of going down the metal "backboard", I rotated it 90 degrees so it was straight accross it. That seemed to help a lot, although I still get occasional rejects.

Ahhhhh ok. That is not on my machine, 100% metal. Looks like I need yet another parts order

#4022 3 years ago

I'm getting a "Momentary Short" error message. Started doing this a few months ago. I did a full restore maybe 2 years ago on this, wiring harness was pulled out. When wiring was installed, I would of been careful to make sure things are safely routed (automotive background, expert in electrical systems... but this ain't a VW).

During game play, it will start racking up skyway tolls, seems to be tied to when the spinners or fan kicks in. I've done switch testing, never can duplicate any false triggers of the the skyway toll switches, #44 and #45 on the switch matrix. I've unplugged those 2 switches, still get random skyway tools when I shouldn't be.

When in testing mode, all switches seem to be working to factory design. No false triggers of #44 or #45 when other switches are tested. Wiggle testing wiring harness, no false triggers. I've not pulled the playfield out, but so far I've not found any issues during visual inspections.

Searching for others who have "Momentary Short" error, seems to be a Whirlwind thing... one thread touched on how the power supply could be an issue. I've just recapped it, and when the pin was restored, new headers and crimped trifurcon terminals were used everywhere in back box.

Any suggestions or case studies that had confirmed resolution?

Thank you.

#4023 3 years ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

I'm getting a "Momentary Short" error message. Started doing this a few months ago. I did a full restore maybe 2 years ago on this, wiring harness was pulled out. When wiring was installed, I would of been careful to make sure things are safely routed (automotive background, expert in electrical systems... but this ain't a VW).
During game play, it will start racking up skyway tolls, seems to be tied to when the spinners or fan kicks in. I've done switch testing, never can duplicate any false triggers of the the skyway toll switches, #44 and #45 on the switch matrix. I've unplugged those 2 switches, still get random skyway tools when I shouldn't be.
When in testing mode, all switches seem to be working to factory design. No false triggers of #44 or #45 when other switches are tested. Wiggle testing wiring harness, no false triggers. I've not pulled the playfield out, but so far I've not found any issues during visual inspections.
Searching for others who have "Momentary Short" error, seems to be a Whirlwind thing... one thread touched on how the power supply could be an issue. I've just recapped it, and when the pin was restored, new headers and crimped trifurcon terminals were used everywhere in back box.
Any suggestions or case studies that had confirmed resolution?
Thank you.

I have had that momentary short message before. It comes and goes and still never got to the bottom of it. Be interesting to hear others opinions as it’s not well documented. My ww had been tombstoned since my house move almost two years now so god know what will happen when I turn it on again!!!

#4024 3 years ago

Momentary Short update... somehow the coin door was the cause. Here are my notes as it were...

* Found that I could beat on the coin door and get false Skyway Tolls. Unplug coin door, no mater how violent I got with coin door, no false triggers.
* The false triggers would ONLY happen in game play mode, never in testing modes.
* Installed Earthshaker coin door, no issues to report, everything working to factory design.
* Wiggle tested living crap out of Whirlwind coin door harness, no shorts ground or each other found.
* Whirlwind coin door reinstalled and currently working to design as well, beating on it doesn't not cause false triggers.

So while it is working, I'm going to leave it be. If it starts to happen again, I'll start stripping the wiring off the coin door and see if I can narrow this down.

#4025 3 years ago

Has anyone else had trouble painting their topper? I cleaned mine off and sprayed some gloss white on it. It got the weird cracked look in a few areas. Any idea what to do about it? Sand it down and use a different primer?

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#4026 3 years ago

i just used regular krylon after a really good cleaning with simple green.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/full-restore-of-a-whirlwind#post-5149898

#4027 3 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Has anyone else had trouble painting their topper? I cleaned mine off and sprayed some gloss white on it. It got the weird cracked look in a few areas. Any idea what to do about it? Sand it down and use a different primer?[quoted image]

I've had similar effects when the paint dried in super cold or super hot conditions...maybe that was the cause?

#4028 3 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Has anyone else had trouble painting their topper? I cleaned mine off and sprayed some gloss white on it. It got the weird cracked look in a few areas. Any idea what to do about it? Sand it down and use a different primer?[quoted image]

Looks like a paint compatibility issue. I just cleaned mine well and used Rustoleum 2X without issue. No primer.

#4029 3 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Has anyone else had trouble painting their topper? I cleaned mine off and sprayed some gloss white on it. It got the weird cracked look in a few areas. Any idea what to do about it? Sand it down and use a different primer?[quoted image]

Typically that is caused by water in or under the paint. Condensation inside a rattle can, if its been stored in a humid space and/or cold temps.

#4030 3 years ago

About to join the club tomorrow, absolutely stoked!

Hows the head fold down on these? Just a latch on the back? Any bolts? As noted on the original post, do you actually need to disconnect the fan and disks?

#4031 3 years ago
Quoted from Mahoyvan:

About to join the club tomorrow, absolutely stoked!
Hows the head fold down on these? Just a latch on the back? Any bolts? As noted on the original post, do you actually need to disconnect the fan and disks?

There should be two bolts inside the backbox holding it upright in addition to the latch. I’m not sure who said you needed to disconnect the discs or fan but it’s definitely fine to leave it while moving it.

#4032 3 years ago

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Hi! Have this parts, if somebody need something everything is available for sale.

1 week later
#4033 3 years ago

My cellar kicker continues to have issues. First it was failing to fire intermittently and required a hard reset to fire again. That has been going on for about 8 months now.

This week it has started doing something different. Now the kicker will fire about once a second after firing. It doesn't happen all the time but it does happen within the first few minutes of the game after the kicker fires. It continues to fire once a second until you shut it off, then it is ok again until the kicker fires during the game again and it will again start firing once a second.

The entire kicker assembly was replaced about a year ago including the coil.

I assume this is a chip on the board issue?

#4034 3 years ago
Quoted from PantherCityPins:

My cellar kicker continues to have issues. First it was failing to fire intermittently and required a hard reset to fire again. That has been going on for about 8 months now.
This week it has started doing something different. Now the kicker will fire about once a second after firing. It doesn't happen all the time but it does happen within the first few minutes of the game after the kicker fires. It continues to fire once a second until you shut it off, then it is ok again until the kicker fires during the game again and it will again start firing once a second.
The entire kicker assembly was replaced about a year ago including the coil.
I assume this is a chip on the board issue?

Sounds like a possible sticky switch.

#4035 3 years ago

Does anyone know which fuse controls the Blinkers in the backbox? My blinkers are all out and NYE party starts soon...any quick help is appreciated

#4036 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Does anyone know which fuse controls the Blinkers in the backbox? My blinkers are all out and NYE party starts soon...any quick help is appreciated

The blinkers are a part of the GI string. The backbox should be the title and the rest, if the rest of your bulbs in the lower part work, the blinkers are probably burnt out or have a broken wire

#4037 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

The blinkers are a part of the GI string. The backbox should be the title and the rest, if the rest of your bulbs in the lower part work, the blinkers are probably burnt out or have a broken wire

Hmmm...how could all the bulbs burn out at the same time? Some of them were brand new. All other lights are working...

#4038 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Hmmm...how could all the bulbs burn out at the same time?

Quoted from Jmckune:

or have a broken wire

#4039 3 years ago

The machine hasn’t moved, so a broken wire seems low probability and I will check. I’m also running the LED OCD board, if that factors in at all.

#4040 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

The machine hasn’t moved, so a broken wire seems low probability and I will check. I’m also running the LED OCD board, if that factors in at all.

Okay, first step in troubleshooting ANYTHING:

Undo every mod and get the (affected) area/region to stock. Because without that, you could waste a lot of time following red-herrings around.

#4041 3 years ago

Gents
I need three plastics, anyone have new ones or intact used ones they’d sell me? Please PM if so and happy new year!

- left sling
- upper left small plastic by red pops
- long thin one to the left of the skyway ramp

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#4042 3 years ago

I'm considering buying a Whirlwind pb and transporting it in my vehicle (Toyota Sequoia) is the issue. Thanks to the Q/A a few comments up the comment board I now know how to fold down the back cab onto the game cab. I've got plenty of room in the Sequoia for the width & length of the pb, but I have only 35" clear vertical opening in my vehicle and need to know what the maximum vertical measurement is (with the legs off) from the bottom of the game cab to the top (which is now the backside) of the back cab when it's folded down. Any help is greatly appreciated.

#4043 3 years ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

I'm considering buying a Whirlwind pb and transporting it in my vehicle (Toyota Sequoia) is the issue. Thanks to the Q/A a few comments up the comment board I now know how to fold down the back cab onto the game cab. I've got plenty of room in the Sequoia for the width & length of the pb, but I have only 35" clear vertical opening in my vehicle and need to know what the maximum vertical measurement is (with the legs off) from the bottom of the game cab to the top (which is now the backside) of the back cab when it's folded down. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I’ve had both models of Sequoia. It will fit with the head folded down...now, go get the game!!!!

#4044 3 years ago

I hauled mine in my 2010 Sequoia

#4045 3 years ago

29x29x55 folded up, including plunger

1 week later
#4046 3 years ago

Got my 2nd Whirlwind after I sold my first unit 17yrs ago. Read all 81 pages !! and found great tips and input, thank you all !
Have 2 lights not working at the moment. Right Red flasher (near SE arrow). Noticed there is a cable with a plug on it which is not connected. Can't see any location to connect to. Anyone has an idea?

I also find 3 other cables flying around as you can see on the pic... The orange one is going to the red middle light in the Kompas (not working) and thought connecting the 2 orange ones would fix it. Did not.

The black one, no idea...

plug flasher (resized).jpgplug flasher (resized).jpg
#4047 3 years ago

I followed the 3 cables :
Orange 1 to kompass center (RED circle - never works)
Orange 2 to yellow '100K bonus per sweep' in front of targets (occassionally blinks together with the 100K when LIT target )
BLack cable : untraceable.

I noticed on the yellow 100K per sweep there is a second orange cable and a black cable connected.

Do you think it's possible I should connect the oranges together and to the oraange one of the flasher and the black to the black cable of the flasher ?

#4048 3 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

I followed the 3 cables :
Orange 1 to kompass center (RED circle - never works)
Orange 2 to yellow '100K bonus per sweep' in front of targets (occassionally blinks together with the 100K when LIT target )
BLack cable : untraceable.
I noticed on the yellow 100K per sweep there is a second orange cable and a black cable connected.
Do you think it's possible I should connect the oranges together and to the oraange one of the flasher and the black to the black cable of the flasher ?

Get a schematic. "Trying" to connect different colored wires to see if it works is never a good idea.

#4049 3 years ago
Quoted from John_In_WI:

Get a schematic. "Trying" to connect different colored wires to see if it works is never a good idea.

I want to give this more than one upvote

#4050 3 years ago

Okay okay, won't play around and blow up things, far too precious !!

I found out it's solenoid 01C (bottom right Fl) and 08C (million/compass Fl). Hereby the schemes from the manual.
But for me it's chinese... anyone willing to advice if manua sheets are useful?

sch1 (resized).jpgsch1 (resized).jpgsch2 (resized).jpgsch2 (resized).jpg
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