(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!


By mof

6 years ago



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  • 3,739 posts
  • 368 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by yaksplat
  • Topic is favorited by 173 Pinsiders

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There are 3739 posts in this topic. You are on page 75 of 75.
#3701 18 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

How do they sell a pf with a missing insert? What am i missing here??

a insert!

#3702 18 days ago

Reseated some cables, pushed on chips, checked for shorted diodes/wires, did factory reset upon finding nothing. Now I haven’t used my meter so it’s possible one of them is broken internally but none were physically broken off the switch legs. Now we are back to nothing happening with the upper drop target in game but registering perfect in test. Does this still sound like a playfield issue or a board issue? Switch edge test correctly displays the drop target switch immediately in test mode upon being dropped. Tried various combinations of the other column switches with nothing appearing to mess with the drop target switch. Checked for row shorts. The only one I couldn’t get to was the left ramp score (top) as it was all the way in the back and would require removing both ramps. Nothing looked out of place on any of the column switches.

#3703 18 days ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Reseated some cables, pushed on chips, checked for shorted diodes/wires, did factory reset upon finding nothing. Now I haven’t used my meter so it’s possible one of them is broken internally but none were physically broken off the switch legs. Now we are back to nothing happening with the upper drop target in game but registering perfect in test. Does this still sound like a playfield issue or a board issue? Switch edge test correctly displays the drop target switch immediately in test mode upon being dropped. Tried various combinations of the other column switches with nothing appearing to mess with the drop target switch. Checked for row shorts. The only one I couldn’t get to was the left ramp score (top) as it was all the way in the back and would require removing both ramps. Nothing looked out of place on any of the column switches.

You need a magnet on a stick. Great for moving the ball around.

As for the board vs pf, try shorting the pins on the board and see if it works. If all works well there, it's the playfield. Otherwise it's the boards.

#3704 17 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

You need a magnet on a stick. Great for moving the ball around.
As for the board vs pf, try shorting the pins on the board and see if it works. If all works well there, it's the playfield. Otherwise it's the boards.

Should I do this while a game is started? It appears to be working correctly in test mode I’m not sure if it would let a game start with the playfield unplugged as it needs to see the trough switches closed

#3705 17 days ago

Sure, shorting pins is the same as closing a switch. Just make sure that you know what pins your doing. I like to use a wire that hooks to a pin and then with the other end i touch pins to close switches. You can do the same thing with a bulb. Touch wires hanging off a socket to two specific pins and the bulb will light in test mode.

#3706 17 days ago

I have a set of alligator clips on a wire for this. I’m just wondering if maybe it’s possibly the resistor on the opto board. The game is clearly seeing the switch register in test and the coil is good. I’m wondering if when other switches are being monitored, it’s somehow blocking the signal from making it. I’m not sure of the resistors function on the opto board as it’s wired a little differently than other switches. It has row, column, 12v, ground where other switches are just row, column, diode. Maybe the 12v or ground is having an issue?

#3707 17 days ago

The resistors are just for the IR led and receiver. 12V is to power them. It'll still behaving like a switch as far as the row and column are concerned.

#3708 13 days ago
Quoted from zene10:

When repopulating a new Mirco playfield with the disks, I managed to center the disks perfectly.
If you're working with the original playfield, fill all existing screw holes with toothpicks and wood glue. After dry, cut the toothpicks flush to the playfield.
1. With the playfield upside down (the underside facing up), roughly center the disk assembly.
2. Working beneath the playfield, patiently fill the gaps between the disks and the playfield holes with toothpicks.
3. Keep filling in the gaps between the disks and the playfield until there is no more room to insert toothpicks.
4. Your disk housing will now be held in place by the toothpicks and stationary enough to mark the holes.
5. Leave the mech housing in place and pre-drill the playfield through the mech housing holes.
6. Secure the disk mech housing with screws
7. Remove the toothpicks and admire the perfectly centered disks
8. Adjust each disk so that it is barely above the playfield surface.
9. Grab a beer and celebrate.

I'm finally getting around to sorting through pictures.

You can use toothpicks to perfectly center the disks when you install a spinning disk mechanism on a new playfield or need to re-center it on an old playfield. After the disks are centered, you can then drill pilot holes on the bottom of the field (if your dimples are not aligned) and secure the entire mechanism.

Good luck.

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#3709 13 days ago

Gonna give this a shot today...

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#3710 13 days ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Gonna give this a shot today...
[quoted image]

Another new disc?

#3711 13 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Another new disc?

Previously I just made a top cover for the right disc, since mine was damaged. Now I'm trying doing a full disc/gear. My center disc is making noises and seems to be warped, and the screws are stuck so I can't disassemble it.

It seems that my 3d printer has just barely enough resolution to do the teeth on the gears, so not sure how well they'll hold up yet. Figured I'd test on the smallest gear before spending like 7 hours printing the big one.

#3712 11 days ago

Should the right orbit return clean through the pops (without hitting them) to the flipper, or get caught in the pops and bounce around?

#3713 11 days ago
Quoted from Pinash:

Should the right orbit return clean through the pops (without hitting them) to the flipper, or get caught in the pops and bounce around?

The ball should hit the pops. On my original playfield, this is what happened.
When I replaced it with a Mirco reproduction, the ball originally came out of the orbit without hitting the pops.
I believe I ended up slightly bending the ball guide so the orbit shot hits the pops.

#3714 11 days ago
Quoted from zene10:

The ball should hit the pops. On my original playfield, this is what happened.
When I replaced it with a Mirco reproduction, the ball originally came out of the orbit without hitting the pops.
I believe I ended up slightly bending the ball guide so the orbit shot hits the pops.

I had to do the same thing.

#3715 11 days ago

One intermittent issues tackled with the drop target and another rears it’s head. Appears I have a sound issue. Jostled around ribbon cables and haven’t helped. I guess I need to go to socketed chips next. After the game has warmed up, occasionally the “well lookie here” callout won’t sound when it’s supposed to. And sometimes instead the “well lookie here, aye crackie, y’all come back now ya hear, Whirlwind” will play over and over again sounding like a dead battery. Goes away after ball drain. I guess my problem lies with whatever chip or rom handles those sounds because it’s very intermittent and doesn’t happen all the time. I did notice that after about an hour of playing last night the backbox was warm, not hot, but there was noticeable heat when I opened the backbox. Touched the sound board chips and nothing was scorching, everything was just warm. Any ideas?

#3716 11 days ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

One intermittent issues tackled with the drop target and another rears it’s head. Appears I have a sound issue. Jostled around ribbon cables and haven’t helped. I guess I need to go to socketed chips next. After the game has warmed up, occasionally the “well lookie here” callout won’t sound when it’s supposed to. And sometimes instead the “well lookie here, aye crackie, y’all come back now ya hear, Whirlwind” will play over and over again sounding like a dead battery. Goes away after ball drain. I guess my problem lies with whatever chip or rom handles those sounds because it’s very intermittent and doesn’t happen all the time. I did notice that after about an hour of playing last night the backbox was warm, not hot, but there was noticeable heat when I opened the backbox. Touched the sound board chips and nothing was scorching, everything was just warm. Any ideas?

If it was working fine before your work on the drop targets, I would look really close again at the cables and connections. Is there any old battery damage or anything like that?

#3717 11 days ago

It did this issue one time before I messed with the drop targets. The board looks super clean so I don’t think there is any acid damage. Some dust from sitting for a while but no mean green that I can see. It was stored without batteries in it.

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#3718 11 days ago

One of the sound roms on the CPU appeared to have a bad connection as I was able to push on it and it made a pretty good push down. Haven’t had any weird delays or missing sounds/sounds when not needed yet. Hopefully that was it

#3719 10 days ago

Someone has the file for the sticker behind the 3 discs?
Thanks

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#3720 10 days ago

Anyone had problems with the scoop not ejecting the first time?

About 1/10 times I go in the scoop, it'll register, play the eject warning sound, but seemingly not make any attempt to actually kick the ball. After a slight delay it'll play the warning sound again and eject successfully. Never had it take 3 times.

#3721 10 days ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Anyone had problems with the scoop not ejecting the first time?
About 1/10 times I go in the scoop, it'll register, play the eject warning sound, but seemingly not make any attempt to actually kick the ball. After a slight delay it'll play the warning sound again and eject successfully. Never had it take 3 times.

Once in a great while, but never 10%.

#3722 10 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Once in a great while, but never 10%.

Same here

#3723 9 days ago

So after nothing happening for a few days, it seems like it’s back now. No random sounds but a high pitched tone. If it helps. The problem connection is the one between 1J16 on the CPU and J1 on the sound board. When I unplug that connector the sound stops. So the problem must be whatever components feed that connection. Any help?

#3724 9 days ago

Could low voltage from the power supply cause this? After it going crazy with that high tone I turned game off and back on and while the sound board initialized, the game didn’t boot. Flipped off again and it boot up fine. The power supply is original so I feel like it is definitely time for it to get rebuilt. Could low voltage trigger this weird sound issue?

#3725 9 days ago

If you already suspect that, you'll be chasing your tail instead of the problems until you confirm the PSU is good. You can use the test points on the PSU to see what they read, and if needed a rebuild is not hard. And yes, low voltage on the logic bus can cause random issues just like these, and/or yes sometimes only one feature or circuit is affected.

Keep in mind, the voltage exiting the PSU might be OK, but every load and/or faulty connector downstream is parasitic and will gradually lower it. WPC games are notorious for this, but Sys11 is a little more forgiving... still something to keep in mind.

#3726 9 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

If you already suspect that, you'll be chasing your tail instead of the problems until you confirm the PSU is good. You can use the test points on the PSU to see what they read, and if needed a rebuild is not hard. And yes, low voltage on the logic bus can cause random issues just like these, and/or yes sometimes only one feature or circuit is affected.
Keep in mind, the voltage exiting the PSU might be OK, but every load and/or faulty connector downstream is parasitic and will gradually lower it. WPC games are notorious for this, but Sys11 is a little more forgiving... still something to keep in mind.

Yeah, check voltage on the PSU, and on the MPU, and on the sound board, make sure the 5V is okay in every place.

#3727 8 days ago

"Well lookey here!" I've joined the Whirlwind club with a very rough project one!

Currently I'm in the process of getting some 1/8A Slow blow fuses for the power supply as one of them was completely dead.

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#3728 8 days ago

I feel like my problem might be from the power supply board. Thinking of how the events happened, I had a crazy high pitched tone, turned off game, upon flipping the switch to turn back on game didn’t boot. Flipping off again the game did boot. I think maybe the craziness is being initiated by low voltage drops? The only sign I can see of maybe a little corrosion is on the SRCs directly above the batteries and even that I’m not sure of. One thing I am sure of though is that the power supply is original and overdue for rebuilding. Here’s the SRCs and current power supply state.
I went ahead and ordered new caps for the power supply because I know it’s time anyways. We will see if that solves the issue.

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#3729 8 days ago

I'd question this:
pasted_image (resized).png
Although you can't tell if it has damaged the nearby trace or not, and that mess might just be leftover flux. Are you planning on putting NVRAM in the machine anyways?

#3730 8 days ago

It looks like it’s just flux from whenever it got swapped out. Do those SRCs, specifically the one on the top right of my picture raise concern? That’s the only thing I can see. All 4 of those have a slightly different look than the other solder on things around it but that top right one is the worst looking to me

#3731 7 days ago
Quoted from ElectricLou:

Someone has the file for the sticker behind the 3 discs?
Thanks [quoted image]

IIRC I found it there http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/ for my TAF which might be the same

#3732 7 days ago

Quick question. The wood around my spinners on my Whirlwind is a bit worn down. I saw a replacement decal (Marco?) that goes around that area, however, given that the wood is chewed up, I don't see how that could lay flat or look good.

Anybody figure out how to repair the wood around those spinners into nice crisp edges again?

Yeah... I'm nitpicking and thankful to have a pretty flawless Whirlwind.

-Rob

#3733 7 days ago
Quoted from rmf-pinball:

Quick question. The wood around my spinners on my Whirlwind is a bit worn down. I saw a replacement decal (Marco?) that goes around that area, however, given that the wood is chewed up, I don't see how that could lay flat or look good.
Anybody figure out how to repair the wood around those spinners into nice crisp edges again?
Yeah... I'm nitpicking and thankful to have a pretty flawless Whirlwind.
-Rob

I can’t comment on the tape option but if it matches it would be a easier fix. Otherwise taylorva sells new oak rails and I know he does WW as I bought them. He is on vacation now though but worth reaching out.

#3734 6 days ago

Does anybody know where to get the rubber bushings for sys 11 drop target boards? seems like every time i replace a 3-bank drop target board the new board does not have them and I have to switch over the crusty ones from the old board.

never mind found it https://www.pinballlife.com/grommet-for-pcb-boards.html

#3735 6 days ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

Also, does anybody know where to get the rubber bushings for sys 11 drop target boards? seems like every time i replace a 3-bank drop target board the new board does not have them and I have to switch over the crusty ones from the old board.
never mind found it https://www.pinballlife.com/grommet-for-pcb-boards.html

I like to also order extra c clips, those things seem to disappear on me.

#3736 4 days ago

Has anyone tried these sideblades from Retro Refurbs? https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/whirlwind-pinball-sideblades/

I have concerns whether they would actually fit. The back of the side blades look like they would bump into the wood blocks that hold the backside flasher board and plastic. The tiltgraphics gameblades appear to be cut properly, so that it does not bump into those wooden blocks.

I was leaning a little towards the Retro Refurb design, but I don't want to get burned if they don't fit.

Whirwind side art (resized).jpg

#3737 4 days ago

I like the Tilt ones better, but it doesn't seem like it would be too hard to just cut them to fit.

#3738 2 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I can’t comment on the tape option but if it matches it would be a easier fix. Otherwise taylorva sells new oak rails and I know he does WW as I bought them. He is on vacation now though but worth reaching out.

What do you mean oak rails? I'm talking about the wood just around the spinners. My disks are nice and new, but, the wood around the opening is a bit beaten up. Unsure how to restore that.

#3739 2 days ago
Quoted from rmf-pinball:

What do you mean oak rails? I'm talking about the wood just around the spinners. My disks are nice and new, but, the wood around the opening is a bit beaten up. Unsure how to restore that.

I'm really not sure if there is a good way to do it. Anything that you apply on there, resin, wood filler, bondo, won't match well and would require sanding. I wouldn't think it's worth it unless you're doing a full restore including repainting the playfield.

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