(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 5,441 posts
  • 478 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by AssaultSuit
  • Topic is favorited by 221 Pinsiders

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There are 5,441 posts in this topic. You are on page 74 of 109.
#3651 3 years ago

While I’m rebuilding the playfield, can anyone tell me what these go to? Something on the playfield or elsewhere? Two spade connectors with blue/white wire and another connector with 3 grey wires with various other colors and 2 reds. And a single grey/green? Helps pls?
Edit: looks like it goes to playfield
3412087F-063F-4226-B16F-DB1CFB0EF53A (resized).jpeg3412087F-063F-4226-B16F-DB1CFB0EF53A (resized).jpeg

#3652 3 years ago

Newest game room photo! Can’t wait till I can actually play!

06E25750-2FC2-4F21-B447-BDCC018D87C6 (resized).jpeg06E25750-2FC2-4F21-B447-BDCC018D87C6 (resized).jpegBB6306E0-340C-4B81-BA5D-431BA6F4EAAC (resized).jpegBB6306E0-340C-4B81-BA5D-431BA6F4EAAC (resized).jpeg

#3653 3 years ago

Ok so I think this is really all I’m going to need help with. The pop bumpers are feature lamps which are unlike any other game I’ve done pop bumpers on where they were just GI. This is in the “low pressure jets area”. In my brain each pop bumper leg gets a diode (red wire) on one leg and a yellow/green wire on the other leg. Unless I’m missing something, there are 3 diode (red wire) but only two connection points for the yellow/green wire. Does the top and right jet get linked together on their yellow/green leg by way of the leads from the sockets? It looks like the only way it would make sense to me?

819DC23A-CA2F-46C5-9A3D-3E951A7399D0 (resized).jpeg819DC23A-CA2F-46C5-9A3D-3E951A7399D0 (resized).jpeg
#3654 3 years ago

All the jets are on the same (yellow-green) column, so their connections are shared. The row (red) is individual.

#3655 3 years ago

Can someone post a picture of the spinner switch? I think I’m missing a bracket or something because I don’t see any way that makes sense for it to be mounted? Thanks

#3656 3 years ago

Those who have installed a Mirco playfield, what's the verdict?

#3657 3 years ago

Should come with a $300 discount for all of the extra work I had to do. Dimples were all off, missing post hole, missing target letters, bad countersinking....

#3658 3 years ago

Can someone do me a favor and tell me what happens when you tilt with a ball in the cellar? I tilted last night during multi ball with a ball in the cellar and after the tilt, the game wasn't kicking the ball out of the cellar so I fired the solenoid manually. I'm curious if this is a software bug (I'm on Rev. L-3) or if I need to adjust my cellar switch.

#3659 3 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Should come with a $300 discount for all of the extra work I had to do. Dimples were all off, missing post hole, missing target letters, bad countersinking....

The CPR playfield is no picnic either. Colors were off, no topside holes drilled, artwork was off, dimples were off, pre-drilled post holes were off, clear sucked. About half-way through my restore I was really tempted to buy a Micro playfield and use the CPR as wall art. I'm glad I didn't.

#3660 3 years ago

Send the original to Kruzman,
Probably only a bit more cost, and all your holes will be exact and everything will line up

#3661 3 years ago
Quoted from longwetsocks:

Can someone do me a favor and tell me what happens when you tilt with a ball in the cellar? I tilted last night during multi ball with a ball in the cellar and after the tilt, the game wasn't kicking the ball out of the cellar so I fired the solenoid manually. I'm curious if this is a software bug (I'm on Rev. L-3) or if I need to adjust my cellar switch.

Alright I just shook the shit out of my machine for the last 20 minutes. I only had it get stuck in the cellar once during a tilt. Every other time it shot the ball out. Tested my switch and it's working perfectly fine. Seems like a weird timing thing that if you tilt at the right time, it gets stuck in there and won't kick it out until you power cycle.

#3662 3 years ago
Quoted from John_In_WI:

Those who have installed a Mirco playfield, what's the verdict?

I’ve mixed feelings. My playfield was bad and I went with Mirco’s

Ultimately I made peace with it and just play it.

They are still selling them with a missing insert decal (same as mine).

Dimples are significantly off in locations.

The trough kickout to the shooter lane is off by several millimeters. Cliff made a special run of protecters based on my findings.

Finally, do not buy one unless you can inspect it at a show. There is significant variation from field to field.

The picture is from Mirco’s pinside site where I’ve highlighted the missing insert.

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#3663 3 years ago

Holy heck..

#3664 3 years ago

How do they sell a pf with a missing insert? What am i missing here??

#3665 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

How do they sell a pf with a missing insert? What am i missing here??

The insert is there, but the text is missing. I'd be happy if he just sent out a piece of mylar to all of the buyers with the proper text printed on it.

#3666 3 years ago

Such a special game!!!

65C8EE5B-AF54-49B0-BC1F-8AE66EC162A0 (resized).jpeg65C8EE5B-AF54-49B0-BC1F-8AE66EC162A0 (resized).jpeg
#3667 3 years ago

Is it normal for whirlwind to go through the adjustments menu backwards? I had to rewire the service buttons as none of them worked as the wires were in the wrong spot and they are working correctly. Now I don’t have batteries in it yet so it started with “Factory settings” noticed it was counting down instead of up like I would expect

#3668 3 years ago

Could anyone provide me with some measurements of the original topper bracket (including angle) please?
My game came without it (and the dome, motor, fan blade, wiring and triac board) and I'm designing my own bracket with a different motor so with different holes.
The bracket will be 3d printed

Thanks very much in advance!

detail (resized).jpgdetail (resized).jpg
#3669 3 years ago

This had be posted somewhere before.

fan bracket (resized).jpgfan bracket (resized).jpg
#3670 3 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

This had be posted somewhere before.
[quoted image]

Wow yaksplat you are my hero!
I googled it and found some measurements but not all.
With this drawing I can make most of my 3d drawing, thank you very much

#3671 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Is it normal for whirlwind to go through the adjustments menu backwards?

I THINK if you hit the middle button, the adjustments will scroll up.

#3672 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I THINK if you hit the middle button, the adjustments will scroll up.

That’s just weird lol on all the other ones of you do manual/down it just repeats the whole menu and auto/up lets you leave

#3673 3 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Well that eliminates the two right flippers.
try it with F4, F5 and F6 out. So that will isolate the 50 VDC portion of the board with no load.
[quoted image]
If that works, put F6 in so that will test out the left flipper. If that's still good, pull F6 and put in F4 which will check if it's one of these:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thought I would post a follow up to this. I replaced the 3 bridge rectifiers on the boards, swapped a shorted transistor and put a new emi filter in too just in case that was a problem and it seems to have fixed the fuse blowing issues. I still have some gremlins that I need to track down though but at least I'm getting closer. Oh and some English EPROMS's have done wonders - I can now understand what it tells me in test mode.

#3674 3 years ago
Quoted from Slash:

Oh and some English EPROMS's have done wonders - I can now understand what it tells me in test mode.

Imagine that

#3675 3 years ago

Does anyone have some topside teardown pics so I can see where posts are supposed to go? Thanks

#3677 3 years ago

Thank you, that is exactly what I need! Attempting to put together a game you’ve never seen or took apart can be challenging, but the posts are the worst part!

#3678 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Does anyone have some topside teardown pics so I can see where posts are supposed to go? Thanks

I believe these are the photos from another Pinsider's playfield swap. I used them a LOT in my recent restoration:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNzrJHgP9BLLB02wpWCcNedqbYrZ-7gK-thqLpWC58RAPj1LI-ce-oyUNx3vEoz2Q?key=RXlKRjZlVGlyZ0x6T1FEUUFhR2U4eTdsNjBjR2h3

#3679 3 years ago

Does anyone know what the part # is for this tall post? I appear to be missing one I don’t see it listed on the post page of the manual

#3680 3 years ago

Reproduction parts sometimes annoy me. My drop target decals obviously need replacing. Am a little disappointed that the reproduction tornado target isn’t even fully colored.

55299EBF-0FAC-47E3-88AF-80E26BBF7BA6 (resized).jpeg55299EBF-0FAC-47E3-88AF-80E26BBF7BA6 (resized).jpeg

#3681 3 years ago

I had to go down & check mine out & you are correct!

Maybe I'll try cleaning my original up.

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#3682 3 years ago

Does anyone have a lead for the ball eject redirection plate? The part number doesn’t pull anything on Marco. If nothing works I’ll try to use a standard one but this one looks different thanks.

#3683 3 years ago

Also, if anyone wants a good laugh, call the number displayed to order your “Whirlwind Tshirt”. Williams phone number is being used for something very different today

#3684 3 years ago

Here's a good drop target decal pic if anyone wants it.
IMG_20191026_013341 (resized).jpgIMG_20191026_013341 (resized).jpg

#3685 3 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Here's a good drop target decal pic if anyone wants it.
[quoted image]

Thank you for doing that.

#3686 3 years ago

I’m getting very close to getting this thing back together, I made what hopefully is my last order needed to get it in working condition today. Missing a few posts preventing me from putting ramps in place. All that’s left are those, some hex spacers, and a few plastics. This thing looks incredible!

8BB65660-E6BB-403D-BBFB-C6618C6A0427 (resized).jpeg8BB65660-E6BB-403D-BBFB-C6618C6A0427 (resized).jpeg

#3687 3 years ago

So here’s a question that has me stumped. I did some testing during gameplay but wasn’t really playing because ramps aren’t in. The top single drop target is not resetting. Normally i would suspect the opto however, going in to switch test shows it immediately triggering as soon as the top target is dropped, the coil also performs flawlessly in coil test. Any ideas?

#3688 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

So here’s a question that has me stumped. I did some testing during gameplay but wasn’t really playing because ramps aren’t in. The top single drop target is not resetting. Normally i would suspect the opto however, going in to switch test shows it immediately triggering as soon as the top target is dropped, the coil also performs flawlessly in coil test. Any ideas?

Have you checked continuity on the row and column connectors back to the board?

#3689 3 years ago
Quoted from schwism:

Have you checked continuity on the row and column connectors back to the board?

Would there not have to be continuity if the opto is registering is switch edge?

The only thing I can think of is maybe with the ramps not being plugged in there’s some switches missing and it’s confusing the game

#3690 3 years ago

Got to play a faux game with my hand as the diverter lol I couldn’t wait. And I probably need new ramps

C2397D9E-9FDD-462E-8922-3B7E33ADFAF1 (resized).jpegC2397D9E-9FDD-462E-8922-3B7E33ADFAF1 (resized).jpeg

#3691 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Got to play a faux game with my hand as the diverter lol I couldn’t wait. And I probably need new ramps
[quoted image]

Before you lash out on expensive new ramps, consider flame polishing the ramps first. Can yield very decent results.

#3692 3 years ago

Get some
Cliffys in those cellar holes

#3693 3 years ago

Oh I am, bucket list for the game before it’s how I want it are #1 a new translite because the current one is trash. #2 an order to comet for the inserts to finish out the LED job, I only had white left over from previous orders. #3 cliffy protectors for cellars and ramps. And 4 (maybe) new ramps or seeing if these can clean up any better.
Does anyone know if the mean green method works on decals like it does paint? I’m fairly certain this game was exposed to tobacco or grease at some point. The ramps were brown and the swap took care of most of the components of that. The ramps cleaned up good enough to where they wearnt brown anymore and you can see through them all that’s left is the outer cabinet. The inside is spotless but the outside has a slight tint to it that I would like to remove if possible

#3694 3 years ago

Does anyone have spare topper parts they want to part with? Trying to save a few bucks before I buy all new stuff. Thanks!

#3695 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinash:

Does anyone have spare topper parts they want to part with? Trying to save a few bucks before I buy all new stuff. Thanks!

PM Sent.

#3696 3 years ago

Do you all think I should replace my top drop target opto? While it is registering when it drops, it’s not a good register as it registers rapidly multiple times and the game doesn’t count it. If I push the opto with my finger to the right, it registers correctly. I initially thought this meant a bad solder connection but I added solder to the legs and there was the same condition present. It only registers properly and stays registered if I have sideways pressure to the right. Sound like a bad connection or just a misaligned u shaped opto?

#3697 3 years ago

Ok so I think I’m getting somewhere. The top target will award and reset but only after the 3 bank target is all the way knocked down. Help?

#3698 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Do you all think I should replace my top drop target opto? While it is registering when it drops, it’s not a good register as it registers rapidly multiple times and the game doesn’t count it. If I push the opto with my finger to the right, it registers correctly. I initially thought this meant a bad solder connection but I added solder to the legs and there was the same condition present. It only registers properly and stays registered if I have sideways pressure to the right. Sound like a bad connection or just a misaligned u shaped opto?

I had to rebuild mine. The traces were shot from a bad repair and I put on a new header for good measure. The old one was extremely loose.

It sounds like the reset of the two are wired together which they should not be.

#3699 3 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

I had to rebuild mine. The traces were shot from a bad repair and I put on a new header for good measure. The old one was extremely loose.
It sounds like the reset of the two are wired together which they should not be.

I have since added solder to the opto legs and it is registering properly in switch test. However during gameplay no sounds or points are awarded until all 3 lower drops are hit at which point. The 3 bank and the upper drop give their award and respective noise and reset independently (reset coils fire one at a time with 3 bank going first and single target following immediately after). I feel like there is either a row short or a bad diode

Edit: now I’m Definitely leaning towards bad diode somewhere. Double checked switch edge to make sure the test conditions were the same. Still registering properly. Now it isn’t resetting when the 3 targets are hit so with it being not consistent and seemingly random I think diode

Edit again: started resetting with 3 bank mid game so it almost has to be a diode shooting against a leg of a switch it’s not supposed to be touching right?

#3700 3 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Here's a good drop target decal pic if anyone wants it.
[quoted image]

It looks like website littleshopofgames.com has good decals. But I see they have toppers Ramps, etc, plastic sets. Unreal.

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